UKC

plannig on doing cassin route on piz badile end of aug what is the overall grade?

In reply to Anonymous: Think it gets TD ish, pitches of french 6a i.e. approx E1 on it.

In reply to vscott:

Not sure it's E1, esp with modern gear. My old mate Robert Barton soloed it, so it can't be that bad (mind you, he's a bloody good climber!), and my brother did it conventionally in about 1971 in about 4 or 5 hours.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

A fair amount of Severe/VS (5.7/5.8), with only one pitch significantly harder (possibly HVS/5.9) - rather like an easier version of Brant Direct. This is generally a safe fun route, abundant protection throughout, but don't get caught in a storm (a la Cassin) - the usual advice applies: start early (in the night) so that you can get down before potential afternoon storms.

In reply to John Stainforth:

Always wondered about the storm on the first ascent as the classic route on the mountain opposite the Badile was done at the same time and the first ascent makes no mention of any bad weather.

The Cassin has been soloed in under 2 hours.

Bob

In reply to Bob:
I thought E1 5b for the crux, but mostly a VS/HVS romp.
Route finding's a little tricky in places and don't get caught in a storm high up as you're quite likely to die.
An abseil from high on the route would take you down onto the glacier.
Abbing the North Ridge took us as long as climbing the Cassin as we kept jamming the rope, but I'm sure a competent party would do better.
The North Ridge doesn't face north so it can be very hot.

In reply to Anonymous:

Did it last year. I would give it HVS 5a for one pitch and the rest of it at max VS 4c.

The N Ridge is a mare descent but does have big rap rings.

The Cassin is a surprisingly low angle route which is grand.

Ben