UKC

hi, just wandering how you attach an anchor to your person. Assuming it is already totally set up on the ground end, how do people reccomend it is attatched to the harness. I have always attatched it to the belt of the harness at the back via a large HMS krab. This however is only for indoor leading. Others say attatch it directly to the belay loop but surely this makes you stand sideways. or similar to that, directly to the krab which the belay device is on using a clove hitch or larks foot.
what do people think?
thanks
chris

In reply to Chris abri: Generally the crab on the belay loop, when you're a pitch or more off the ground the other options would be a hassle. I don't anchor when I'm on the ground though- save gear- climb with skinny punters.

In reply to Chris abri:
I generally tie everything into the loop of my fig 8. There are exceptions where I'd tie into the back of my harness though. Like when attaching myself to a deadman.

In reply to Chris abri:

anchor it back through your rope loop (formed from your fig of 8 or bowline) as that should already be tensioned then belay fom the same loop so that any load goes partly onto you anchors.

enjoy

In reply to Chris abri: Through the loop formed by the figure 8 / bowline and my belay loop just in case I have to escape from the rope for whatever reason during the climb

In reply to dark_star: Very decent of you to call me skinny. I owe you one. My answer to the question is: Keep the path between the anchor and the climber as straight as possible. Also don't use the harness as part of the system, you might need it elsewhere in an emergency. Even if that is not very likely when belaying from the ground at the wall, it's a good habit.

In reply to everyone: The purpose of my anchor in thios situation is not a life line. It is simply to stop me being pulled forward/up when i am belaying and the climber falls. Is it still not a good idea for me to attatch it through belt of the harness at the back?
thankyou
chris

In reply to Chris abri:
Don't tie it to the back of your hearness, as the weight from any fall will go right through your kidneys. This is very painful, and also makes it extremely difficult to escape from the system if you need to.

if you only have one anchor point, does this technique not make you stand sideways? How can you do it without standing sideways. if you are sitting down how does it work?
thankyou
Chris

In reply to Chris Abri: What's wrong with standing sideways? It should be perfectly possible to belay safely standing sideways so long as you remember and apply the fundamental belay device/braking hand/dead rope principles.

If you ever go climbing outdoors you will very likely find yourself having to belay in all sorts of different orientations depending on where the anchors are, how the ropes run and where best you can position yourself for a view of the leader/second.

Although there may be a few particular circumstances, such as James G indicated, in which anchoring to the back of the harness may be preferable, in general it is probably better to bring everything to one place ie belay or tie-in loop.

In reply to chris abri: If a fall at the wall is going to pull you forwards, you are standing in the wrong place. If you are standing in the right place, the pull will be upwards, so the the anchor can be between your feet, so no need to stand sideways.