UKC

Quick question:

do I need a 12mm or 13mm drill bit to fit T-Nuts? I've been told both. (or does it not really matter?)

In reply to Eck: Use the smallest size that will fit. If you have to gently tap the shaft (snigger) in with a hammer then that is about right.

In reply to Eck:

either will do - as its the teeth on the nut that holds it in, not the tightness of the hole. i used 12mm no problems as that was the bit i already had.

In reply to Anonymous:

dunt really matter, go for 13mm as it's easier to fit 'em. If you're buying a drill bit, get an auger bit, stays sharper longer.

In reply to HOLDZ:

excuse my ignorance in these matters - what's an auger bit?

In reply to Eck: Here's photo of one;
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/53401.html
Basically a drill designed for wood.

In reply to Eck:

If the panel is not easily accessible from behind - it is best to glue them aswell with something like "no more nails".

In reply to Eck:

A couple of 1/2" clout nails in the nicks of the T-nut where the claws are will hold it in place and stop it spinning as well. Much better than glue.

Simon

In reply to Eck:

No No No!!!
If they are M10 T nuts (standard for most holds) drill a straight 10mm hole. Tap the T nut into the hole (It WILL fit) until the spikes start to dig in then put a normal bolt through from the other side - with a couple of big washers, then tighten the bolt with a spanner, wheelbrace or ratchet/windy gun and socket. This pulls the T nut into the wood extremely tightly without damaging the wood. Simply undo the bolt and your nut is fixed firmly and flushly. It seems a bit of a chew on - but you can get into a routine and it becomes quicker. Worth doing properly if you cant access them once its all finished!!
Dave

In reply to Dave Middlemas:

thats a crazy method. hammering in 250 nuts into 12mm holes takes long enough without having to flip the board over and bolt them all. Plus i fail to see how you can get 10mm nuts started in 10mm holes, since 10mm is the interior nut dimension and its a squeeze getting em started in 12mm holes.

I say just hammer em in normally into 12 or 13mm holes and as long as you don't push-force any bolts in then non should come out.

In reply to Eck:
A 10mm drill will make at least a 10.5mm hole in any wood. Otherwise the bit wood not spin and you would have to hammer it out afterwards. In plywood its probably closer to 11mm due to the way the wood is formed. If you look at the end of the nuts you'll see that they are actually slightly tapered and will push in to some degree by hand. As you tighten the bolt it pulls the cylinder into the hole - the torque from your elbow grease causing the wood to give further as the steel is drawn in. You can tighten them so that the outer edge of the wood is flush with the outer edge of the nut. The spikes are not designed to hold it in the hole - they are too wide and shallow and are merely to stop it from spinning. The tightness in the hole defines how long it will remain. I know there are quicker ways and by hammering them in they will probably mostly stay in place - it all depends if you can get round the back afterwards or are you going to have to lift off the whole panel. I make these for a living and believe me its worth doing the nuts properly

In reply to Eck:
i was recomended a bit size that was similar to the diameter of the t-nuts, and it took so long to get each one in i gave up. in the end i had to go back and get a 12 or 13, and i only had 100 odd to put in...

In reply to Dave Middlemas:

I'm certainly not going to be able to get round the back of the board once it's up, so I'd like 'em to stay in and stay still.

I'm guessing I'll give your way a go to start with and if it all starts to get a bit tiring then I can always try a bigger bit!

Next question: how many T-Nuts per square metre?

In reply to Eck:
Don´t know if this helps at all:

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-buildwall.htm

Greatest good luck, Pete

In reply to Eck:
depends wot ur building.
mine is a small woody that is 8' high, and ive gone for an 8" x 8" grid. this seems fine, but i would strongly recomend having a higher concentration up near where your hands will be.
in retrospect i would half the number by my feet, and double it by my hands.
hope this helps

In reply to Eck:
As regards how many holes and T nuts - its entirely up to you. The ones Ive worked on usually end up with 40-50 per 8x8 panel. I have found that as you move on the temptation is to cut down on them. Try and work out a grid pattern and place them so that they dont interfere with the framework behind. Alternatively you can roughly hang it on a couple of bolts or nails and then just roughly mark where you want them with a pencil or similar and drill your holes to suit your wall