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On the 25th of december Liam Halsey from Luton made a quick headpoint of gaia E8 6C at black rocks this been his second E8, although this route has received numerous ascents it is still a good effort.
Also a couple of days ago Richard Simpson from birmingham has made a quick ascent of Slackers at Curbar E7 6b, All in about an hour, this been his second E7.
The partners in crime have also been busy in bouldering competitions with Liam winning the southern indoor and Richard coming second. And Richard winning the bristol bouldering comp.
A good effort by both the youths well done
simon
Also a couple of days ago Richard Simpson from birmingham has made a quick ascent of Slackers at Curbar E7 6b, All in about an hour, this been his second E7.
The partners in crime have also been busy in bouldering competitions with Liam winning the southern indoor and Richard coming second. And Richard winning the bristol bouldering comp.
A good effort by both the youths well done
simon
In reply to SIMON P:
Nice one guys, not really news though. Slackers is down to E6 6b by the way! Did rich use the new undercut on slackers! I'm afraid that was my creation, the pocket on the left exploded on me when i pulled on it! Any thoughts on whether this makes it easier or harder? Most people didn't use the pocket anyway (harder) but the new undercut is hard to ignore!
Nice one guys, not really news though. Slackers is down to E6 6b by the way! Did rich use the new undercut on slackers! I'm afraid that was my creation, the pocket on the left exploded on me when i pulled on it! Any thoughts on whether this makes it easier or harder? Most people didn't use the pocket anyway (harder) but the new undercut is hard to ignore!
In reply to Chris D:
Thanks, firstly about the undercut were about is this or were was the pocket on the rotue. the holds that i used were the arete and the sidepull plus a small intermedite hold before the break so thats a no i didnt use the undercut. When did this happen by the way, i take it you lead it then. And how about kaluza have you been back since.
and about the grade im not really that sure i think that this route is hard for E6 6b but soft for E7, but i think that id go for E7 mainly because of the landing if you was to fall you would tumble a long way down the boulders and most likely really hurt yourself.
Thanks, firstly about the undercut were about is this or were was the pocket on the rotue. the holds that i used were the arete and the sidepull plus a small intermedite hold before the break so thats a no i didnt use the undercut. When did this happen by the way, i take it you lead it then. And how about kaluza have you been back since.
and about the grade im not really that sure i think that this route is hard for E6 6b but soft for E7, but i think that id go for E7 mainly because of the landing if you was to fall you would tumble a long way down the boulders and most likely really hurt yourself.
In reply to R SIMPSON: kaluza is not e7 you do not hit the floor from the top moves i also think 6c is a bit overgrader aswell
In reply to Anonymous: I guess you didn't get anything for Christmas, either from Santa or the wife / girlfriend.
In reply to mark s: firstly i never said that Kaluza was E7 and you would hit the floor from the top moves unless you have a good belayer. You also dont hit the floor from the top moves of Gaia but does this make it not E8 and how about Parthian shot alot of people have fallen of that but does that make it safe therefore shouldnt it be E6 7a i dont think so, i think you should think more about your comments before you post them.
And about Kaluza its nots really given E7 because its really bold its given E7 because its hard so thats E for effort on this one, and also about it being given 6c i think to flash this its definetly gonna feel hard but after youve worked it alot it might feel more like 6B.
And about Kaluza its nots really given E7 because its really bold its given E7 because its hard so thats E for effort on this one, and also about it being given 6c i think to flash this its definetly gonna feel hard but after youve worked it alot it might feel more like 6B.
In reply to Anonymous:
< really, who gives a shit?
you, otherwise you wouldnt have replied.
<more ego driven, grade dependant climbing
more jealous anonymous shite. yawn.
< really, who gives a shit?
you, otherwise you wouldnt have replied.
<more ego driven, grade dependant climbing
more jealous anonymous shite. yawn.
In reply to SIMON P:
No way, that must be like, the 20th ascent Gaia's had! Now that's what I call news!
Relatively young person climbs an E7! Well blow me, it's surely a first!
No disrespect to a couple of bloody good efforts, but I just reckon you should have a think before you try to make your mates "famous". I accept someone has to be famous, like Ben or Jerry, but only 'cos they deserve it. As an example, my mate came from another country to live in Sheffield and within a few weeks of getting used to grit he did two E8's, an E7, and an E6 over one week. He didn't go blowing his own trumpet, and no-one did it for him either. That's because that kind of stuff ain't news anymore - first ascents and repeats of E9's, and second ascents of things like Toy Boy, and onsights of E7's, now that's news...
Come on lads, pull your finger out!
No way, that must be like, the 20th ascent Gaia's had! Now that's what I call news!
Relatively young person climbs an E7! Well blow me, it's surely a first!
No disrespect to a couple of bloody good efforts, but I just reckon you should have a think before you try to make your mates "famous". I accept someone has to be famous, like Ben or Jerry, but only 'cos they deserve it. As an example, my mate came from another country to live in Sheffield and within a few weeks of getting used to grit he did two E8's, an E7, and an E6 over one week. He didn't go blowing his own trumpet, and no-one did it for him either. That's because that kind of stuff ain't news anymore - first ascents and repeats of E9's, and second ascents of things like Toy Boy, and onsights of E7's, now that's news...
Come on lads, pull your finger out!
In reply to r simpson:
"You also dont hit the floor from the top moves of Gaia"
Think you would! And, if you use the toe hook round the corner and it pops, it would be a pretty nasty fall!
"You also dont hit the floor from the top moves of Gaia"
Think you would! And, if you use the toe hook round the corner and it pops, it would be a pretty nasty fall!
In reply to Adam Lincoln,
have you not seen the hard grit film then,i take it you havent. Let me tell you about it Jean Min thrieu falls from the top moves of gaia and surprise he dosent hit the floor, he does slam into the arete though so you was right about it been a nasty fall.
Neil k
first of all i wasnt trying to make my mates famous, i was just letting people no about their efforts. If you wasnt interested about another ascent of Gaia why the hell did you read and reply to this topic. You said that they didnt deserve congratulations of cause they do they both put their necks out to do hard grit routes at a really young age i think that they deserve encoragement which will also help them to progress even more throughout their career.
And about them pulling their finger out if you have seen both of these lads guidebooks and the stuff they have done you would definetly not have said that. Both these youngsters have completed stacks of things within a relatively short period. so remember if you dont find this interesting dont read it
have you not seen the hard grit film then,i take it you havent. Let me tell you about it Jean Min thrieu falls from the top moves of gaia and surprise he dosent hit the floor, he does slam into the arete though so you was right about it been a nasty fall.
Neil k
first of all i wasnt trying to make my mates famous, i was just letting people no about their efforts. If you wasnt interested about another ascent of Gaia why the hell did you read and reply to this topic. You said that they didnt deserve congratulations of cause they do they both put their necks out to do hard grit routes at a really young age i think that they deserve encoragement which will also help them to progress even more throughout their career.
And about them pulling their finger out if you have seen both of these lads guidebooks and the stuff they have done you would definetly not have said that. Both these youngsters have completed stacks of things within a relatively short period. so remember if you dont find this interesting dont read it
In reply to simon p:
firstly a really good effort liam,but isnt Gaia now E7 ? who cares though as it is a Fu**ing awsome line. thats why it should be done and not for the E points, which im sure it was?
Good effort. . . .
firstly a really good effort liam,but isnt Gaia now E7 ? who cares though as it is a Fu**ing awsome line. thats why it should be done and not for the E points, which im sure it was?
Good effort. . . .
In reply to simon p:
JMTT doesn't fall from anywhere NEAR the top moves of Gaia on HG. You want to model the fall off those, take a little bet maybe? I'll come and watch.
JMTT doesn't fall from anywhere NEAR the top moves of Gaia on HG. You want to model the fall off those, take a little bet maybe? I'll come and watch.
In reply to simon p:
Oh come on matey, don't get so wound up. Firstly, you weren't trying to "make your mates famous" (my words), but "just letting people no (sic) about their efforts" (yours). Fair play, although to me (and remember, it may not apply to you, it's a free country), they amount to the same thing.
The next question, seeing as how we know now, is do we care? Obviously yes, or, as you very astutely pointed out, no-one would have read or posted on the thread. I must say though that I (perhaps not others) was attracted by the vagueness of the title, i.e. it might have been interesting, like an onsight ascent. It wasn't though, I didn't think it was very interesting, and that's "why the hell...I replied to this thread". Room for my view or not?
"You said that they didn't deserve congratulations" (!). Did I? Where? I can remember saying something like "well done for a couple of bloody good efforts" or somesuch, maybe you took this the wrong way!
Of course your friends need encouragement to progress in climbing, but if they can't get this from mates like you, and get it instead from being news items, then that is a very sorry state of affairs. They should be doing these routes because they enjoy them, and I've no doubt that this is true at the moment, but it can easily change.
And the pulling the finger out comment? Well, what can I say, except I had hoped a phrase regarding cheeks and tongues applied here. Look it up.
Now just let me try and make my point a bit clearer, then maybe you may see my point of view a little better:
Your mates climb some routes that have been climbed loads of times before - mundane. Your mates are young - irrelevant. Your mates are, well, your mates - totally irrelevant! Look at it this way, if you were an objective editor of a news section in a mag, not a mate, and had to choose between a new route like John Arran's, or an ascent of an E6/7 by a young 'un, what would you choose? And remember, if its the second choice, it wouldn't go in, 'cos my mate did Slackers a few weeks ago himself, and it wouldn't be fair to tell the world about your mate and not mine would it?
Oh come on matey, don't get so wound up. Firstly, you weren't trying to "make your mates famous" (my words), but "just letting people no (sic) about their efforts" (yours). Fair play, although to me (and remember, it may not apply to you, it's a free country), they amount to the same thing.
The next question, seeing as how we know now, is do we care? Obviously yes, or, as you very astutely pointed out, no-one would have read or posted on the thread. I must say though that I (perhaps not others) was attracted by the vagueness of the title, i.e. it might have been interesting, like an onsight ascent. It wasn't though, I didn't think it was very interesting, and that's "why the hell...I replied to this thread". Room for my view or not?
"You said that they didn't deserve congratulations" (!). Did I? Where? I can remember saying something like "well done for a couple of bloody good efforts" or somesuch, maybe you took this the wrong way!
Of course your friends need encouragement to progress in climbing, but if they can't get this from mates like you, and get it instead from being news items, then that is a very sorry state of affairs. They should be doing these routes because they enjoy them, and I've no doubt that this is true at the moment, but it can easily change.
And the pulling the finger out comment? Well, what can I say, except I had hoped a phrase regarding cheeks and tongues applied here. Look it up.
Now just let me try and make my point a bit clearer, then maybe you may see my point of view a little better:
Your mates climb some routes that have been climbed loads of times before - mundane. Your mates are young - irrelevant. Your mates are, well, your mates - totally irrelevant! Look at it this way, if you were an objective editor of a news section in a mag, not a mate, and had to choose between a new route like John Arran's, or an ascent of an E6/7 by a young 'un, what would you choose? And remember, if its the second choice, it wouldn't go in, 'cos my mate did Slackers a few weeks ago himself, and it wouldn't be fair to tell the world about your mate and not mine would it?
In reply to SIMON P: To be fair I'm glad you posted this. I saw the two lads at black rocks after they'd top roped it and heard them saying they were coming back next weekend. its good to know they did come back and they did do it.
Its always odd to see big routes with chalk on and think, was that a top rope or a lead / solo? Off all the flaws i think self publicising or giving your mates a puff is pretty low down the list.
Its always odd to see big routes with chalk on and think, was that a top rope or a lead / solo? Off all the flaws i think self publicising or giving your mates a puff is pretty low down the list.
In reply to NeilK:
Funny thread this. Granted, Gaia has been top roped and climbed by quite a few people I suspect, but it's only a post on Rocktalk. It's purely subjective what is and what isn't newsworthy - if you're interested in doing this route, the post might be of interest. You could argue that it shows how many unknown climbers are operating at this level thesedays.
Funny thread this. Granted, Gaia has been top roped and climbed by quite a few people I suspect, but it's only a post on Rocktalk. It's purely subjective what is and what isn't newsworthy - if you're interested in doing this route, the post might be of interest. You could argue that it shows how many unknown climbers are operating at this level thesedays.
I personally wasnt bothered that this thread was posted or not. I dont really care whether people no about my ascent and nor does Liam. The only thing we care about is that we climbed theese awesome lines for ourselves and for or own satisfaction as long as we no that we did these routes it dosent matter whether any one else no's or not. I think that simon posted this thread because he was pleased about or efforts and maybe he felt other peole maybe interested to. However it dosent appear to be the case but to be honest i dont really care.
Thank you for anyone who showed interest in this thread.
Thank you for anyone who showed interest in this thread.
In reply to R Simpson:
no is spelt know......
> I personally wasnt bothered that this thread was posted or not. I dont really care whether people no about my ascent and nor does Liam. The only thing we care about is that we climbed theese awesome lines for ourselves and for or own satisfaction as long as we no that we did these routes it dosent matter whether any one else no's or not.
no is spelt know......
In reply to simon p:
Stop talking crap. JMT falls from the delicate traverse moves before the last few hard moves...
Stop talking crap. JMT falls from the delicate traverse moves before the last few hard moves...
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Well, there would be more unknown climbers operating at this level if it wasn't for this thread!
Good for you R. Simpson that you and your friend Liam are doing these routes for yourselves and note for recognition. This is definately the way to go about, and if you carry on like this, we'll probably be hearing some fully impressive news from your quarters I don't doubt.
Well, there would be more unknown climbers operating at this level if it wasn't for this thread!
Good for you R. Simpson that you and your friend Liam are doing these routes for yourselves and note for recognition. This is definately the way to go about, and if you carry on like this, we'll probably be hearing some fully impressive news from your quarters I don't doubt.
In reply to R SIMPSON:
Ain't done Slackers or Kaluza yet rich. The pocket incident was 2nd december i think. I toproped it twice. The first time i strained my calf muscle and the 2nd the pocket exploded. The routes definetely easier using the undercut- seems silly not to use it (E6?). I don't think the undercut will last very long either! Oh well none of it matters really. Glad to here your physced anyway- have fun in spain!
Say hello to Youri!
Ain't done Slackers or Kaluza yet rich. The pocket incident was 2nd december i think. I toproped it twice. The first time i strained my calf muscle and the 2nd the pocket exploded. The routes definetely easier using the undercut- seems silly not to use it (E6?). I don't think the undercut will last very long either! Oh well none of it matters really. Glad to here your physced anyway- have fun in spain!
Say hello to Youri!
In reply to richard:
Richard Simpson, top climber, nice guy, so lets pick at his grammar. Facta non verba.
Richard Simpson, top climber, nice guy, so lets pick at his grammar. Facta non verba.
In reply to SIMON P: just out of intrest how old are the boys who done gaia and the other roughts?
coz i go down to dartmoor all the time and seem to get the younges asents of everything above E3 and i am keen to meet climbers my age who are as good/better than me ( i am 15 and have lead E5's and E6's)
(((skinny)))
coz i go down to dartmoor all the time and seem to get the younges asents of everything above E3 and i am keen to meet climbers my age who are as good/better than me ( i am 15 and have lead E5's and E6's)
(((skinny)))
In reply to (((skinny))):
They are about 80 or just under ?
Sounding good any way skinny keep up the grade pushing!
They are about 80 or just under ?
Sounding good any way skinny keep up the grade pushing!
In reply to SIMON P:
Is this really newsworthy.
Is this really newsworthy.
( i am 15 and have lead E5's and E6's)
Good effort. Please refrain from insulting the first Ascentionists just because you can do theses routes like you have before though.
Good effort. Please refrain from insulting the first Ascentionists just because you can do theses routes like you have before though.
In reply to Roger Mc Spredder:
I saw Richard down the Rock Face a few months ago. If it is the guy I am thinking of who is gobby he is about 16.
I saw Richard down the Rock Face a few months ago. If it is the guy I am thinking of who is gobby he is about 16.
In reply to Dave Wilson:
Do i know you, i dont think i do so why are you slagging me off. You dont you have the right to call me gobby at all you dont even know me.
You may haver watched me climb at an indoor wall a few months ago but i have never climbed with you let alone spoke to you so do you feel that you no me well enough to make such a judgement about me. Its people like you that bring the downside to good climbers, you see them climb and think that its okay to make personal remarks about them without even getting to know them at all.
I dont think im gobby i just think that i am confident in my climbing, and am just really motivated.
But if you think that im gobby why not share with me why you think that im gobby and at least i can try to change whatever it is im doing wrong.
I hope that you have the decency to reply to this thread, but in a more mature mannor.
thank you
> I saw Richard down the Rock Face a few months ago. If it is the guy I am thinking of who is gobby he is about 16.
Do i know you, i dont think i do so why are you slagging me off. You dont you have the right to call me gobby at all you dont even know me.
You may haver watched me climb at an indoor wall a few months ago but i have never climbed with you let alone spoke to you so do you feel that you no me well enough to make such a judgement about me. Its people like you that bring the downside to good climbers, you see them climb and think that its okay to make personal remarks about them without even getting to know them at all.
I dont think im gobby i just think that i am confident in my climbing, and am just really motivated.
But if you think that im gobby why not share with me why you think that im gobby and at least i can try to change whatever it is im doing wrong.
I hope that you have the decency to reply to this thread, but in a more mature mannor.
thank you
In reply to SIMON P: Is Liam the skinny guy who used to have a shaved head and climb at Amersham lots and has a gawd blimey guvnor accent?
In reply to R Simpson:some people have to slag others off dont know why
In reply to R Simpson:
Dave did not say you were gobby , just that someone at the wall was gobby and it could be you.
If it was you give it some thought, it may make you some more friends.
Dave did not say you were gobby , just that someone at the wall was gobby and it could be you.
If it was you give it some thought, it may make you some more friends.
In reply to R Simpson:
Quite plainly your man Dave Wilson is wildly guessing ("if it is the guy I am thinking of..." - for all I know he could be thinking of Michael Portillo), and doesn't in fact know you. This despite the fact that when he was posing as Roger Mc Spreader earlier in the thread he claimed to have met you. He also guesses that you're 15/16, when your profile says 18. Further proof, unless you look young.
By the way, me and my mate did an E6 on the unusual day of New Years Eve, does anyone want to hear all about it? I also did an HVS...
Quite plainly your man Dave Wilson is wildly guessing ("if it is the guy I am thinking of..." - for all I know he could be thinking of Michael Portillo), and doesn't in fact know you. This despite the fact that when he was posing as Roger Mc Spreader earlier in the thread he claimed to have met you. He also guesses that you're 15/16, when your profile says 18. Further proof, unless you look young.
By the way, me and my mate did an E6 on the unusual day of New Years Eve, does anyone want to hear all about it? I also did an HVS...
In reply to Dave Wilson:
I saw Richard down the Rock Face a few months ago. If it is the guy I am thinking of who is gobby he is about 16.
Why did you need to put that, you have no idea who you are talking about, but your prepared to say something nasty about them, to show what a idiot you are making of yourself, Richard Simpson is the quietest one.
I saw Richard down the Rock Face a few months ago. If it is the guy I am thinking of who is gobby he is about 16.
Why did you need to put that, you have no idea who you are talking about, but your prepared to say something nasty about them, to show what a idiot you are making of yourself, Richard Simpson is the quietest one.
In reply to StuT:
No more likely drinking at the end of the day
No more likely drinking at the end of the day
In reply to Dom Orsler:
Yep thats liam.
Yep thats liam.
In reply to ...
This thread has got completely out of hand, with various people making derogatory comments about people that they obviously do not know.
I can not really pass judgement on Richard Simpson as I have only met him once, whilst judging the second round of the Southern Indoor Bouldering League, but he came across as quiet, polite and a very capable climber.
Liam on the other hand I have known for several years, he climbs indoors at Amersham, which is my local wall. He is young (compared to me at least), confident and more than able – this is not his first E8.
A couple of months ago there was a piece in OTE which reported Liam jumping from the crux of Benign Lives at Froggatt and falling from Shine On at Stanage and then going to the pub. As I was with Liam the day that he fell from Shine On, I knew that the reporting was not accurate (we didn’t go to the pub, Liam belayed me on Teli). I also knew that Liam’s jump from Benign Lives had been about two years earlier. I asked Liam if I could set the record straight and send OTE a list of his more notable ascents and was told in no uncertain terms that I may not.
Liam is not interested in publicity, he is purely interested in doing good, hard routes.
I for one am very glad that the post was made on Rocktalk. I knew that Liam was going to attempt Gaia, and was keen to find out if he had succeeded. Surely a climbing forum is the correct place for news like this.
There have been several threads where mention has been made of Adam Lincoln climbing E8, but these have not degenerated into a general slagging off of Adam (and nor should they). So why when a thread is posted about Liam and Richard do people find it necessary to put them down?
In my opinion everyone who is capable of climbing at this level deserves respect, they have a level of commitment that most of us can only dream about. If they or their friends want to post a short thread about their acheivements, then good for them. Lets have more of this sort of thread, this is, after all, a climbing forum.
This thread has got completely out of hand, with various people making derogatory comments about people that they obviously do not know.
I can not really pass judgement on Richard Simpson as I have only met him once, whilst judging the second round of the Southern Indoor Bouldering League, but he came across as quiet, polite and a very capable climber.
Liam on the other hand I have known for several years, he climbs indoors at Amersham, which is my local wall. He is young (compared to me at least), confident and more than able – this is not his first E8.
A couple of months ago there was a piece in OTE which reported Liam jumping from the crux of Benign Lives at Froggatt and falling from Shine On at Stanage and then going to the pub. As I was with Liam the day that he fell from Shine On, I knew that the reporting was not accurate (we didn’t go to the pub, Liam belayed me on Teli). I also knew that Liam’s jump from Benign Lives had been about two years earlier. I asked Liam if I could set the record straight and send OTE a list of his more notable ascents and was told in no uncertain terms that I may not.
Liam is not interested in publicity, he is purely interested in doing good, hard routes.
I for one am very glad that the post was made on Rocktalk. I knew that Liam was going to attempt Gaia, and was keen to find out if he had succeeded. Surely a climbing forum is the correct place for news like this.
There have been several threads where mention has been made of Adam Lincoln climbing E8, but these have not degenerated into a general slagging off of Adam (and nor should they). So why when a thread is posted about Liam and Richard do people find it necessary to put them down?
In my opinion everyone who is capable of climbing at this level deserves respect, they have a level of commitment that most of us can only dream about. If they or their friends want to post a short thread about their acheivements, then good for them. Lets have more of this sort of thread, this is, after all, a climbing forum.
In reply to SIMON P:
sure cant everyone climb E8 these days, ok im only joking. But i soloed a new hard severe in the mournes last week, now that was real climbing, on sight 2.
sure cant everyone climb E8 these days, ok im only joking. But i soloed a new hard severe in the mournes last week, now that was real climbing, on sight 2.
In reply to irish si:
Cor blimey, reading this thread who would want to be a good climber if all you get is flak? Glad I'm never likely to be anywhere near climbing Gaia in case one of me mates reveals that I've climbed it and the rest of the world's climbers come down on me like a ton of bricks.
Now about that 4th ascent of "New Statesman".........
Cor blimey, reading this thread who would want to be a good climber if all you get is flak? Glad I'm never likely to be anywhere near climbing Gaia in case one of me mates reveals that I've climbed it and the rest of the world's climbers come down on me like a ton of bricks.
Now about that 4th ascent of "New Statesman".........
In reply to R Simpson:
I toproped Gaia about a year ago. I needed a little more fitness at the time but it is an awesome line isn't it.
One question though is that the gear placement at the bottom of the groove is rather flared. What do you think of the quality of the friend placements there and would you go for offsets? Would you really trust them?
How lucky do you think that Jean Minh really was? If you look very carefully a piece of gear does actually pop and runs down the rope. Can't tell what it is though and its hard to spot.
I toproped Gaia about a year ago. I needed a little more fitness at the time but it is an awesome line isn't it.
One question though is that the gear placement at the bottom of the groove is rather flared. What do you think of the quality of the friend placements there and would you go for offsets? Would you really trust them?
How lucky do you think that Jean Minh really was? If you look very carefully a piece of gear does actually pop and runs down the rope. Can't tell what it is though and its hard to spot.
In my opinion everyone who is capable of climbing at this level deserves respect, they have a level of commitment that most of us can only dream about.
Quite right although *anyone* pushing their grade deserves respect and should be able to post on a climbing forum.
Quite right although *anyone* pushing their grade deserves respect and should be able to post on a climbing forum.
In reply to that Gobby one
sounds like a gobby bastard to me!
you should go back to school and learn to spell, rather than spending all your time climbing!
sounds like a gobby bastard to me!
you should go back to school and learn to spell, rather than spending all your time climbing!
Hi Richard.
It is good you are climbing top routes, it is bad people are saying nasty things about you because of it.
We are proud of you.
It is good you are climbing top routes, it is bad people are saying nasty things about you because of it.
We are proud of you.
In reply to SIMON P:
How is it that you know Liam, Simon?
How is it that you know Liam, Simon?
In reply to MarkH:
MarkH, I agree that no-one should have been slagging Mr's Halsey and Simpson. I am also glad to hear that neither of them are climbing these routes in order to garner publicity (?!) like this.
I can't agree with the rest though. You knew Liam was going to try Gaia, and you think a climbing forum like this is the place to find out that he has. I would have thought this is what conversations, and telephones are for. My mate might go to Woodwell tomorrow. If he does, do you mind if he tells me what he did there on this forum? Cheaper than a phone call innit? (Well for me it is!)
In your opinion "everyone who is capable of climbing at this level deserves respect". Twaddle! People don't give Johnathan King much respect these days, but he has "achieved" a No. 1 single. Fact is, he's a bad person. I would prefer to judge people on their characters, rather than how many E-points they can gather in one go.
Have a look at the "good effort" thread for an actual discussion rather than some mindless ranting like this...
MarkH, I agree that no-one should have been slagging Mr's Halsey and Simpson. I am also glad to hear that neither of them are climbing these routes in order to garner publicity (?!) like this.
I can't agree with the rest though. You knew Liam was going to try Gaia, and you think a climbing forum like this is the place to find out that he has. I would have thought this is what conversations, and telephones are for. My mate might go to Woodwell tomorrow. If he does, do you mind if he tells me what he did there on this forum? Cheaper than a phone call innit? (Well for me it is!)
In your opinion "everyone who is capable of climbing at this level deserves respect". Twaddle! People don't give Johnathan King much respect these days, but he has "achieved" a No. 1 single. Fact is, he's a bad person. I would prefer to judge people on their characters, rather than how many E-points they can gather in one go.
Have a look at the "good effort" thread for an actual discussion rather than some mindless ranting like this...
In reply: H, richard were you at Almscliffe not so long ago??? it might be getting on to a month now, trying the keel? bcos if he was then he was doing bloody well and didnt seem gobby at all.
In reply to Julian W:
>> How lucky do you think that Jean Minh really was?
I believe he owes his life to the decisive sprint-belaying
of Dr Grieve.
>> How lucky do you think that Jean Minh really was?
I believe he owes his life to the decisive sprint-belaying
of Dr Grieve.
In reply to NeilK:
Neil in your reply you said "You knew Liam was going to try Gaia, and you think a climbing forum like this is the place to find out that he has. I would have thought this is what conversations, and telephones are for." - I think that if you read my original posting you will see that I did not claim that Liam was a "mate". I know him from my local wall, I have climbed outside with him on two occasions, but this does not mean that I know his phone number!
Later you say "Twaddle! People don't give Johnathan King much respect these days, but he has "achieved" a No. 1 single. Fact is, he's a bad person. I would prefer to judge people on their characters, rather than how many E-points they can gather in one go." - The reason people do not give Johnathan King much respect is because he based his entire career on being a pratt. People did not respect him long before his arrest. You say you would rather judge people on their characters and not on E-points - when did I suggest that anyone should pass judgement on Liam or Richard all I said was that they deserved respect and not a slagging.
"Have a look at the "good effort" thread for an actual discussion rather than some mindless ranting like this..." - I have had a look at the thread that you suggested and am now confused. At what point does it become alright to mention an nth ascent in your opinion? Can we no longer mention Action Directe as it has now been repeated by 3 people?
Surely as the guidelines for posting say "ROCKTALK - As the name suggests - somewhere for you to post notices on topics not neatly pigeonholed by the other boards, and to debate things like specific routes, ethics, grading, styles of ascent, top roping, headpointing, bouldering, bolts, the latest news and anything else that you have an opinion on.", discussion about a relatively unknown young lad making an ascent of what most people count as an awesome route is allowable.
I'm not sure at what point you decided that my original post counted as "ranting", but then, as the thread was not about me in the first place, it doesn't really matter.
Neil in your reply you said "You knew Liam was going to try Gaia, and you think a climbing forum like this is the place to find out that he has. I would have thought this is what conversations, and telephones are for." - I think that if you read my original posting you will see that I did not claim that Liam was a "mate". I know him from my local wall, I have climbed outside with him on two occasions, but this does not mean that I know his phone number!
Later you say "Twaddle! People don't give Johnathan King much respect these days, but he has "achieved" a No. 1 single. Fact is, he's a bad person. I would prefer to judge people on their characters, rather than how many E-points they can gather in one go." - The reason people do not give Johnathan King much respect is because he based his entire career on being a pratt. People did not respect him long before his arrest. You say you would rather judge people on their characters and not on E-points - when did I suggest that anyone should pass judgement on Liam or Richard all I said was that they deserved respect and not a slagging.
"Have a look at the "good effort" thread for an actual discussion rather than some mindless ranting like this..." - I have had a look at the thread that you suggested and am now confused. At what point does it become alright to mention an nth ascent in your opinion? Can we no longer mention Action Directe as it has now been repeated by 3 people?
Surely as the guidelines for posting say "ROCKTALK - As the name suggests - somewhere for you to post notices on topics not neatly pigeonholed by the other boards, and to debate things like specific routes, ethics, grading, styles of ascent, top roping, headpointing, bouldering, bolts, the latest news and anything else that you have an opinion on.", discussion about a relatively unknown young lad making an ascent of what most people count as an awesome route is allowable.
I'm not sure at what point you decided that my original post counted as "ranting", but then, as the thread was not about me in the first place, it doesn't really matter.
In reply to MarkH:
Ooops! Sorry if it read badly (it did). What I meant was that it was ME who was ranting, not you. I wouldn't dream of making an off the cuff remark like that
Fair enough, you can't ring Liam up to ask him how he got on, so maybe this forum is easier for you than ringing round friends of friends etc. Not much I can do about that. Mind you, its easier for me to use this forum than go to all that hassle most of the time aswell.
I still can't see why I should respect Mr's Halsey and Simpson because they climb hard, but its probably because I'm a pedant. What I'm saying is that I would reserve judgement on the actual person until meeting them, although I WOULD give respect to their ACHIEVEMENTS. I don't think I made this very clear either, hopefully I have now; I do respect their having done these routes, but that's all so far.
What I meant on the "good effort" thread about "the odd nth repeat deserves respect" was not that the 3rd, 5th, 7th,... repeats deserve respect and the even ones don't or anything like that (just in case anyone was wondering!). It was that sometimes a third ascent can be newsworthy, when normally it wouldn't be terribly interesting (as in my view its just the same as the 100th ascent if they were all headpointed - no improving on style, just done at an earlier time). Examples are Malcolm Smith's third ascent of CT, because of the time delay between the 2nd and 3rd ascents and the kudos that had built up, Bentley's third ascent of Parthian (placing gear on lead). Or how about Sharma's nth repeat of Excellent Adventure 5.13b on gear in Yosemite as his third (?) trad lead.
Indeed, I would say that another repeat of Action Directe is not that newsworthy, witness the press Dave Graham got for his 4th ascent (not much), just like Tom de Gay and Tim Emmet haven't had much publicity for their 3rd and 4th ascents of Meshuga. News can't stay rooted in the past.
You're right that the subject of the thread is OK with the "posting charter", but then, so is my having an opinion on it. You've got to expect replies if you put something on a message board, and not all of them are going to be up your alley, but that's the way of things.
What can I say? Its all opinion innit?
Ooops! Sorry if it read badly (it did). What I meant was that it was ME who was ranting, not you. I wouldn't dream of making an off the cuff remark like that
Fair enough, you can't ring Liam up to ask him how he got on, so maybe this forum is easier for you than ringing round friends of friends etc. Not much I can do about that. Mind you, its easier for me to use this forum than go to all that hassle most of the time aswell.
I still can't see why I should respect Mr's Halsey and Simpson because they climb hard, but its probably because I'm a pedant. What I'm saying is that I would reserve judgement on the actual person until meeting them, although I WOULD give respect to their ACHIEVEMENTS. I don't think I made this very clear either, hopefully I have now; I do respect their having done these routes, but that's all so far.
What I meant on the "good effort" thread about "the odd nth repeat deserves respect" was not that the 3rd, 5th, 7th,... repeats deserve respect and the even ones don't or anything like that (just in case anyone was wondering!). It was that sometimes a third ascent can be newsworthy, when normally it wouldn't be terribly interesting (as in my view its just the same as the 100th ascent if they were all headpointed - no improving on style, just done at an earlier time). Examples are Malcolm Smith's third ascent of CT, because of the time delay between the 2nd and 3rd ascents and the kudos that had built up, Bentley's third ascent of Parthian (placing gear on lead). Or how about Sharma's nth repeat of Excellent Adventure 5.13b on gear in Yosemite as his third (?) trad lead.
Indeed, I would say that another repeat of Action Directe is not that newsworthy, witness the press Dave Graham got for his 4th ascent (not much), just like Tom de Gay and Tim Emmet haven't had much publicity for their 3rd and 4th ascents of Meshuga. News can't stay rooted in the past.
You're right that the subject of the thread is OK with the "posting charter", but then, so is my having an opinion on it. You've got to expect replies if you put something on a message board, and not all of them are going to be up your alley, but that's the way of things.
What can I say? Its all opinion innit?
In reply to NeilK:
Are you stupid or something, i have said numerous times on this thread that me and Liam dont want publicity for our achivements and that we dont care one bit what other people think as long as we feel good in ourselves, epecially people like you.
But you still rant on with your numerous threads about why you dont see why you should repsect our achievemnets, so let me make it clear WE DO NOT WANT OR EXPECT ANY RESPECT FROM YOU OR ANYONE ELSE, WE CLIMB THESE ROUTES FOR OURSELVES. so please do not keep replying to this thread with you usual negative opinions as to be honest NEILK we dont want to hear them.
And one more think NEILK why dont you use your real name NIGEL ru imbarrassed about what others think about your threads?
Are you stupid or something, i have said numerous times on this thread that me and Liam dont want publicity for our achivements and that we dont care one bit what other people think as long as we feel good in ourselves, epecially people like you.
But you still rant on with your numerous threads about why you dont see why you should repsect our achievemnets, so let me make it clear WE DO NOT WANT OR EXPECT ANY RESPECT FROM YOU OR ANYONE ELSE, WE CLIMB THESE ROUTES FOR OURSELVES. so please do not keep replying to this thread with you usual negative opinions as to be honest NEILK we dont want to hear them.
And one more think NEILK why dont you use your real name NIGEL ru imbarrassed about what others think about your threads?
In reply to R Simpson:
If Rich or Liam wanted any publicity then they would be starting the threads them selves. Liam doesn't even have access to the internet!!!!
If Rich or Liam wanted any publicity then they would be starting the threads them selves. Liam doesn't even have access to the internet!!!!
In reply to R Simpson:
You appear to have me all wrong Mr Simpson. I would hate to see this continue to worry you, so let me explain.
Firstly, earlier on the thread I congratulated you and Liam for your good efforts (which they undoubtably are) and your doing these routes for yourself and not others. Have a look, its there. So I totally agree with you.
Secondly, I said in me last post that I DID respect your achievements, just that I couldn't honestly say I respected you since I hadn't met you. That's pretty fair non? Anyway, you don't care, so that's that cleared up. (The way I phrased this earlier did indeed sound negative, as it was poorly expressed, sorry, but that's the internet!).
I haven't started any threads on this topic, never mind "numerous". And I use NeilK because that IS my real name, Nigel is just what a friend calls me. If you don't believe me, check my e-mail address. Blimey, an e-mail address! And its real - I'm just being straight up with ya all round.
I don't think I'm being negative, I'm just expressing my opinions. As you rightly say, you don't have to care about them, but then, I have the right to not care when you say that. And yes, I am stupid. Or something...
You appear to have me all wrong Mr Simpson. I would hate to see this continue to worry you, so let me explain.
Firstly, earlier on the thread I congratulated you and Liam for your good efforts (which they undoubtably are) and your doing these routes for yourself and not others. Have a look, its there. So I totally agree with you.
Secondly, I said in me last post that I DID respect your achievements, just that I couldn't honestly say I respected you since I hadn't met you. That's pretty fair non? Anyway, you don't care, so that's that cleared up. (The way I phrased this earlier did indeed sound negative, as it was poorly expressed, sorry, but that's the internet!).
I haven't started any threads on this topic, never mind "numerous". And I use NeilK because that IS my real name, Nigel is just what a friend calls me. If you don't believe me, check my e-mail address. Blimey, an e-mail address! And its real - I'm just being straight up with ya all round.
I don't think I'm being negative, I'm just expressing my opinions. As you rightly say, you don't have to care about them, but then, I have the right to not care when you say that. And yes, I am stupid. Or something...
In reply to evryone:
Boy oh boy! I've just looked at this site for the first time and its great to here about what routes climbers are
bagging or even attempting. Unfortunately, it looks like
some people are content with slagging down the achievements
of other climbers even though they do not know them. So an
E8 has been done 20 times - it doesn't matter whether its
been done 100 times, its still E8 and a damn good lead. Some
people obviously are not realizing what it takes to get up
these extreme routes and are dismissing the ascents.
(I wonder if the culprits themselves actually climb the
upper extremes!)
I'm sure most climbers want to hear about these routes and all the details that go with them.....I know I do. Many
climbers benefit from information shared, its of interest to
that next target. So climbers,...........
Stop your slagging and yer nagging,
and start yer cragging and a'bagging!!!
Boy oh boy! I've just looked at this site for the first time and its great to here about what routes climbers are
bagging or even attempting. Unfortunately, it looks like
some people are content with slagging down the achievements
of other climbers even though they do not know them. So an
E8 has been done 20 times - it doesn't matter whether its
been done 100 times, its still E8 and a damn good lead. Some
people obviously are not realizing what it takes to get up
these extreme routes and are dismissing the ascents.
(I wonder if the culprits themselves actually climb the
upper extremes!)
I'm sure most climbers want to hear about these routes and all the details that go with them.....I know I do. Many
climbers benefit from information shared, its of interest to
that next target. So climbers,...........
Stop your slagging and yer nagging,
and start yer cragging and a'bagging!!!
On the subject of news, the news reporting on ukclimbing does seem a bit sporadic. None of Mr Heason's recent activities have been reported for example!
In reply to Chris D:
Quite right, the news is well sporadic on this site, they should just crib of other sites like 8a.nu if they don't have any crag spies! Or indeed, for news of Mr Heason, just crib of a site that has a close involvement with a close relation of his
The onsights of Moon Madness and Slackers in one day should definately be big news, it shows a definate increase in the the quality and quantity of hard onsighting on grit, and changes previous perceptions of what is possible onsight on the brown stuff. Mr Heason seems to be the man doing all the work at the mo, so he deserves some credit for it (whether he likes it or not .
Mind you, climbingmedia also reporting alongside an onsight of Ulysses or Bust and a headpoint of End of the Affair is gilding the lily a bit... (oooh, controversial!)
Quite right, the news is well sporadic on this site, they should just crib of other sites like 8a.nu if they don't have any crag spies! Or indeed, for news of Mr Heason, just crib of a site that has a close involvement with a close relation of his
The onsights of Moon Madness and Slackers in one day should definately be big news, it shows a definate increase in the the quality and quantity of hard onsighting on grit, and changes previous perceptions of what is possible onsight on the brown stuff. Mr Heason seems to be the man doing all the work at the mo, so he deserves some credit for it (whether he likes it or not .
Mind you, climbingmedia also reporting alongside an onsight of Ulysses or Bust and a headpoint of End of the Affair is gilding the lily a bit... (oooh, controversial!)
In reply to SIMON P:
Quick FACT - you can hit the ground from the top of Kaluza Klein - even with a decent belayer (I hope he was doing his job - I was too busy watching the world speed past to check!). Especially if you flip upside down and hit the boulders head first. BUT - the belaying should make sure this is mosty on rope stretch. So be careful out there, and well done everyone who did any enjoyable climbing recently!
Quick FACT - you can hit the ground from the top of Kaluza Klein - even with a decent belayer (I hope he was doing his job - I was too busy watching the world speed past to check!). Especially if you flip upside down and hit the boulders head first. BUT - the belaying should make sure this is mosty on rope stretch. So be careful out there, and well done everyone who did any enjoyable climbing recently!
In reply to R Simpson: Hey man Just chill. Don`t let these remarks get to you . If you go on these forums you`ll find out ther are a few nasty cowardly people who can slag you off behind the safety of their computer screens hoping you`ll never find out who they are, don`t let them bother you. How was your`e weekend by the way, I just went down the climbing wall, climbed pretty well the girls didn`t seem that impressed but I thought I did ok.
In reply to Chris D: Yeah Ben`s really doing well. Im well impressed with all the stuff he`s been doing. Nice one Ben.
Hope you have a good trip to Thailand or wherever your`e going.
Hope you have a good trip to Thailand or wherever your`e going.
In reply to Del: I`m sure Liam and Rich are not after anything other than to get out and enjoy there climbing.
The fact that someone else is publicising their achievements is a good thing. It makes a lot more interesting reading than a lot of the crap people put on this forum. Me included.
The fact that someone else is publicising their achievements is a good thing. It makes a lot more interesting reading than a lot of the crap people put on this forum. Me included.
In reply to Rob Mirfin:
I just went down the climbing wall, climbed pretty well.
and made a 7c+ look easy.
I just went down the climbing wall, climbed pretty well.
and made a 7c+ look easy.
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