UKC

Kilnsey

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lynne 05 Aug 2004
A friend told me to try Witches Brew at Kilnsey so I looked up the new guide to find out how hard it was. Beside the route it is given 7a+ and at the route listing it is given 7b. Does anyone know what it is supposed to be?
 Tyler 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne:

I'd say 7a+ and not that good compared to other routes there. just one hard move really.
lynne 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: What do you think is a good 7a+ to get on?or a good 7b?
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: It's a fairly nice route, but go on Frankie (next to it) instead, it's far better.

Andy F
 Tyler 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne:

A very good easyish 7b is ground effect. alternative Optional extra (or whatever it's called) is better than it loks and is at least 7a+ despite what it says in Northen Limestone. sticky wicket is a good 7b but quite hard.
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to Tyler: There's always Hardy Annual as well, 7a+ in old money, 7b now........

Andy F
 Tyler 05 Aug 2004
In reply to andy farnell:

i thought of that but its a bit run out isn't it. Only been on it on a TR and it seemed a bit intimidating.
lynne 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: Thought about trying that but it has a reachy symbol and im only wee. How reachy is it?
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to Tyler: It's a bit bold at the bottom (clipping the first bolt without a stick, the moves to the big ledge) and the bolts at the top are in an odd place, left of the climbing, but apart from that it's fine

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: How wee is wee?

Andy F
lynne 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: Im 5.5 just!
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: 5ft 5" isn't tiny at all. Think about Lynne Hill who's barly 5ft and climbed 8b+.

The reaches on Hardy annual will be fine for you.

Andy F
lynne 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: I know im not tiny but im not strong either so being quite wee and weak is a bad combination. i think to compare Lynn Hill to anyone is silly, shes exceptional!!
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne:
> (In reply to lynne) i think to compare Lynn Hill to anyone is silly, shes exceptional!!

True, but she was (and probably still is) exceptional despite her hight diadvantage. She didn't let it stop her in any way, she found different way's of doing things.

I'm 5'8" tall and regularly climb with people 6ft+ so I have to find ways of doing moves differently to them. It's not a problem, just a challenge to be overcome.

Andy F
lynne 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne: Yeh im totally in agreement but if your trying to push your grade i find it better to pick something that suits me and when things are reachy it just annoys me.

 Bob 05 Aug 2004
In reply to andy farnell:

I did HA shortly after it was put up and am fairly sure it was 7a then. Didn't have any problem with it - onsighted it in fact. Which is why I am surprised to see it at 7b! From what I remember there was an awkward move low down then it was easy to the last couple of moves. Oh and no clip-stick!

Bob
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2004
In reply to Bob: I was surprised to see it at 7b as well. I remember it being 7a+, and fair at the grade. It could be that some holds have fallen off at the start. I did the start last week when having a look at Technician and it seemed harder than I remembered.

Andy F
Rog 05 Aug 2004
In reply to lynne:

I climbed with a couple of mates (thank you Martin & Toby) who were 8ins shorter than me. They always pissed me off by walking up reachy moves saying they found them easy - it was just a question of growing a bit or levitating, apparently.

And 7a+ or 7b? Don't worry - the grade depends on a number of factors like personal biorhythms, the FT index, time of day and quantity of alcohol consued. Have a go - the worst case scenario is that you put in some airtime.

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