UKC

I was at Gardoms the other day seconding some of Peter Bivens routes - The Eye of Faith, Moyers Buttress and Stormbringer (which I completely failed on). Made me wonder what type of footwear he would have had? Was it still the big boot era or plimsolls as I think it was too early for EBs / PAs? Either way, he seems to have been a fine climber.

In reply to Jonathan T:

I'm guessing your "Mr. T" who was there on Saturday?! I seem to recall seeing a picture of him wearing plimsoles on some route or other. Certainly, Demon Rib at Black rocks was climbed in plimsoles and that was in 1949 - Moyers Buttress was done in 1955 so it's the right era anyway. Effing nails to climb Moyers in big boots....

In reply to Jonathan T:

The plimsolls worn were usually cheap black rubber with thin soles and thin canvas uppers. Bougth to fit fairly tight they were fairly good for climbing in on smears compared with most other footwear of the day.
Try looking in wollies at the kids cheapest range, that is similar to those we wore. They did not last long in jamming cracks, the canvas wore away faster than 5.10 rubber does now.
NOW, if someone did them in adult sizes I am sure a lot of beginners would not bother paying tens of pounds for something they could get for around a fiver or less. They would be better for using with socks over as well in wet weather.

In reply to sutty:

I started in pumps, as I couldn't get any shoes over here (until I was given some). Were a lot better than trainers. Definitely not as good as proper climbing shoes though!!!

In reply to Allan Thomson:

what was the highest grade climbed in big boots or plimsolls? i have climbed up to severe (seconding) in overlarge trainers so i imagine someone with talent could do hvs,e1 or more in a pair of tight fitting plimsolls?

In reply to Alrobertson: I'vs climbed a French 6b+ route in a pair of Doc Martin boots. Crap edging but the smearing wasn't bad.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell: gosh.

In reply to Alrobertson: was that combat style soles or the thinner ones, and how many eyelets were the boots?

In reply to Alrobertson:

At least E2 in nailed boots, vibram boots and CLOGS!
E1 in hush puppies.
E4 in winklepickers (pointed shoes from the 60s).

Lots of people do average vs in trainers etc.

No idea of the top grade in crampons, ask EB, Norrie, Steve Mclure etc.

Top grade in plimsolls was probably What is E3 today. No reason for that to be the limit on some overhanging horror that does not rely on the feet so much.

In reply to Alrobertson: IIC they were 9 eyelet original soled boots (Black of course) and the route was Caffe Facet on the RHS of Lower Pen Trywn.

Andy F

In reply to sutty:

blimey. people can be quite quite tuff when they need to be. E3 in plimsolls, with no cams etc kinda puts stuff into perspective.

do you think that nowadays(i hate that word) there is a much bigger percentage of folk with all the gear and no idea. it makes me kinda wish i was starting climbing and joining a group of mentalists who climb E3 in plimsolls rather than a lot of fleecy people buying a lifestyle. i kinda feel like that sometimes, i do climb vdiffs in madrock mugens.

In reply to Alrobertson:

Your misuse of the word tuff reminded me. I have climbed on a rope E3 and led E! in tuff work boots. Sounds good but the rubber soles on them was as good as a lot of rubber around now. I failed on the E1 in PAs a couple of years later as they did not have the same friction. I think it was put up in plimsolls.

In reply to Alrobertson:


of course there is.

In reply to Jonathan T: I've done a few routes in my converse allstars, they're only posh plimsolls. I don't know when they were first available in the uk but they're quite good for edging and the rubber on the sole is soft just like plimsolls. A personal trainer i knew was on the england basketball team way back in the 50's or 60's ? He was the first person to import them to the uk and a climber as well, i don't know if anyone ever climbed in them back then.

In reply to sutty:

I remember seeing someone leading E1 in flip-flops! I have soloed VDiff in wellies - which was interesting.

Bob

In reply to Bob:
I have soloed VDiff in wellies - which was interesting.

Dear Bob

Someone got the nickname of Gallows when claimed he soloed Gallows Route (E2) in wellies in Glencoe.

For some fun, we used to climb in wellies down the Etive Slabs, but that does not count as real climbing.

Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Uh huh, didnt know that's where the name came from - most interesting. Was the claim ever verified???

In reply to Jonathan T: have heard tales of some nameless genius down-climbing 'dateline'E2 5C in motorcycle boots and leathers as a way of entering pex hill (no doubt carrying a sac, too).

In reply to heather monkey:
Was the claim ever verified???

Dear heather

Jimmy did the route before my time, I only knew him as Gallows. There was some dubiety over his claim as nobody seen him do the climb, others said he was able to climb at that grade.

Gallows is an “easy” climb to solo as there is only one hard move and it is before the runner, that was one reason I soloed it, but even I would not try it in wellies.

Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir:

I got to know both Gallows & Jenny when we (me & dad) visited them on their boat & went cruising on the canal & round the Small Isles & Skye at various times as a teenager. They were both very good & very friendly to me. Although Gallows did manage to put me off scuba diving by taking me too deep on a dive & not telling me how to equalise mask pressure. All the tiny blood vessels in & round my eyes blew & I had the most attractive pair of bloodshot, black eyes for weeks after 8-(
As for the climb claim, Id not heard that before & I'd say he didnt strike me as the type (to do the climb that is, he was definitely the type to make the claim ) but I guess people change (& as such he should get the benefit of the doubt) - I don't think he was climbing at all by the time I knew him.

I reckon I need to hone my climbing skills somewhat before I try it (& wellies will always be out of the question!)

PS - to the OP: Sorry for the complete hijack!

In reply to DannyB: Yes, what a small world! Good to meet you.

In reply to all: Thanks for the info.

In reply to Jonathan T:
I've seen someone do a F7b in trainers at bristol wall. Very overhanging though.

In reply to Woker:

grit E5 solo at least has been done in trainers (non-approach shoes), E1 slabs at least have been done in rollerskates.

In reply to sutty:


Al Harris on Zukator. I would like to have seen it.

Tom Proctor reputedly often demonstrated the crux on 'Our Father' at Stoney (also E4) to bewildered potential leaders whilst wearing trainers.

In reply to Jonathan T: didnt someone climb something in rollerskates? (im going senile, cant remeber the details)

i always used to climg and canoe in black school pumps as a kid, maybe i should wear them again!

In reply to Jonathan T: 50s footwear? i wear brothel creepers.but not for climbing.