What Is La Sportiva's No-Edge Concept?added Jul/2013, see all La Sportiva news & reviews
announcement by La Sportiva
From an indepth study of foot morphology and the way in which the foot is used during the various phases of rock climbing, on holds of different shapes and sizes, La Sportiva has devised the revolutionary "No-Edge" concept: a construction method that allows for the elimination of "edges" on the sole of the shoe giving a more fluid, precise and harmonious climb. The No-edge concept stems from three core concepts: sensitivity, uniform pressure and adaptability.
La Sportiva's Pietro Dal Pra was key in the development of the No-Edge concept, here's what he has to say...
"Since 2007, I have been personally testing new prototypes on a monthly basis. My goal is to try and understand and further develop the No-Edge concept. Why is this such an emotional project? Why so much investment on behalf of the La Sportiva team in this direction? The answer is simple. We are convinced that climbing No-Edge is... simply the tops!
When I go climbing I always find the opportunity to talk about this model, to try and explain to others the many advantages that a No-Edge boot can provide. I never tire of talking about it. Maybe that's because, finally, after 30 years of product testing, this is the one product that I have taken to heart, not just to foot.
I believe this is the biggest step forward in the evolution of climbing and I'm convinced this technology can also contribute to the evolution of a climber's personal climbing technique. These shoes "teach" us how to move more freely, lightly and naturally over the rock surface. Lightweight, fluidity and naturalness; these are the most important aspects of the vertical lifestyle. This is the philosophy promoted by the no edge technical concept. I know some people will disagree with me, but when I return to wearing traditional climbing shoes with edges, I feel as though my climbing has suddenly become somewhat 'primitive'.
No-Edge is not intended to be a substitute but a revolutionary alternative for the majority of free climbing routes on different types of rock. (Our No-Edge models the Speedster and Futura are the only boots to have made a true difference in my climbing, the only ones to have prevented me from failing onsight routes, and the only ones that have allowed my climbing to go 110% all the way).
No-Edge makes climbing even more fun! Test them with your hands, not just with your feet; push a shoe with edges onto a rock surface and make rotational movements, as if you were drawing a circle. Try to transport the sensation to rock climbing! Then do the same thing with Speedster or Futura...and try again. Feeling is believing.
Unfortunately, all my talking hasn't always been convincing. It is difficult for climbers to change their convictions and abandon their favourite climbing shoe. It is equally difficult to overcome one's mental barrier and step into a revolutionary shoe. Major changes are always a little frightening.
I experienced so much personal satisfaction a few months ago while out climbing with Adam (yes, that Adam). After using the Futura model for a few rope lengths, he said,
'Hey, you know what? I can really feel the freedom you have been trying to explain to me for years".
I will go no further - I have already said enough about the technical aspects of the boot (at least the more simple ones). All these details are applied to the Speedster model. The Futura model has been developed using the same constructive methods, but whereas Speedster was developed for those who were used to "suffering" in their shoes, the Futura model concentrates on giving the boot a higher performance and a more snug fit. We made many prototypes and carried out lots of testing with both top climbers and some average level climbers too. The results were all super!
Ciao to all and happy No-Edge climbing!"
The No-Edge construction perfectly follows the profile of the foot, which by nature has a curved shape, using a thinner layer of rubber and maintaining the same volume throughout the shoe. This solution allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface by eliminating the tradition edge of the sole and giving extra push.
The low profile rubber used for the No-Edge construction reduces the distance between foot and rock surface, thereby making your feet more sensitive and "aware" of their surroundings.
The No-Edge construction allows the foot to exert uniform pressure on the inside area of the shoe, transferring this externally to all areas of the rock surface instead of just a few specific points. This allows the climb to become more fluid and contributes to enhanced durability of the product.
AdaptabilityThe "no-edge" construction provides enhanced foot sensitivity and allows the foot to exert uniform pressure on the holds when climbing, it also allows the shoe to maximize the contact points with the rock surface and to adapt quickly and efficiently to the changing rock surface.
No-Edge is available in the Futura and Speedster models. La Sportiva Stockists can be found here.
|Futuras available at Harrogate & Manchester|
See this product at the Manchester Climbing Centre shop
|Speedster available from our shop or on our website|
See this product at the Cold Mountain Kit shop
See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop
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