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From an indepth study of foot morphology and the way in which the foot is used during the various phases of rock climbing, on holds of different shapes and sizes, La Sportiva has devised the revolutionary "No-Edge" concept: a construction method that allows for the elimination of "edges" on the sole of the shoe giving a more fluid, precise and harmonious climb. The No-edge concept stems from three core concepts: sensitivity, uniform pressure and adaptability.
La Sportiva's Pietro Dal Pra was key in the development of the No-Edge concept, here's what he has to say...
"Since 2007, I have been personally testing new prototypes on a monthly basis. My goal is to try and understand and further develop the No-Edge concept. Why is this such an emotional project? Why so much investment on behalf of the La Sportiva team in this direction? The answer is simple. We are convinced that climbing No-Edge is... simply the tops!
My passion for No-Edge began many years ago, but what still surprises me today is that the magic of climbing with these shoe still continues to amaze me. There are many reasons for this: the constant use of the product, a true working knowledge of the footwear and a lot of reflection while climbing. My mind just never stops working...
UKC Gear, Jul 2013
© La Sportiva
When I go climbing I always find the opportunity to talk about this model, to try and explain to others the many advantages that a No-Edge boot can provide. I never tire of talking about it. Maybe that's because, finally, after 30 years of product testing, this is the one product that I have taken to heart, not just to foot.
I believe this is the biggest step forward in the evolution of climbing and I'm convinced this technology can also contribute to the evolution of a climber's personal climbing technique. These shoes "teach" us how to move more freely, lightly and naturally over the rock surface. Lightweight, fluidity and naturalness; these are the most important aspects of the vertical lifestyle. This is the philosophy promoted by the no edge technical concept. I know some people will disagree with me, but when I return to wearing traditional climbing shoes with edges, I feel as though my climbing has suddenly become somewhat 'primitive'.
No-Edge is not intended to be a substitute but a revolutionary alternative for the majority of free climbing routes on different types of rock. (Our No-Edge models the Speedster and Futura are the only boots to have made a true difference in my climbing, the only ones to have prevented me from failing onsight routes, and the only ones that have allowed my climbing to go 110% all the way).
No-Edge makes climbing even more fun! Test them with your hands, not just with your feet; push a shoe with edges onto a rock surface and make rotational movements, as if you were drawing a circle. Try to transport the sensation to rock climbing! Then do the same thing with Speedster or Futura...and try again. Feeling is believing.
The No-Edge construction perfectly follows the profile of the foot, which by nature has a curved shape, using a thinner layer of rubber and maintaining the same volume throughout the shoe. This solution allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface by eliminating the tradition edge of the sole and giving extra push.
No-Edge is available in the Futura and Speedster models. La Sportiva Stockists can be found here.
Gear News and Outdoor Industry News at UKC and UKH presents climbing, walking and mountaineering equipment and stories that will be of interest to UKClimbing.com's readers. They are not gear reviews and are provided by companies that advertise with UKClimbing Limited. Please feel free to comment about the stories and products on the associated thread.