The Petzl Reverso review
Manufactured by Petzl - £15, added Dec/2003
reviewed by Dave Hunter
This review has been read 18,104 times
Petzl Reverso © Petzl
Belaying the leader or bringing up a second in traditional manner is as
smooth and easy as any other device. Abseiling is equally simple and the
extra metal on the Reverso allows heat to dissipate faster than on standard
belay/abseil devices. In its auto-locking mode, you can bring up one or
two seconds from a direct belay. In most circumstances this will be safer
and easier than conventional belaying, especially when two seconds are
climbing at once. Obviously you will want to be sure of your belay anchors
before using the device in this way. Lastly, it can be used to ascend
the rope.
The downsides? Well there aren't any major ones really. Some concern
has been expressed as to the safety of the device in auto-lock mode when
using very thin ropes. The Petzl website goes into detail about this.
Testers have found that it seems fine with ropes as thin as the 8mm Mammut
Phoenix, but you would be well advised to make your own judgements on
this. One other point to bear in mind when using the device in auto-locking
mode is that if a second falls into space (under an overhang for instance),
then letting the rope out to lower them will become more difficult. Common
sense, forward thinking and reading the instructions should avoid any
problems.
For long routes, summer, winter or alpine and especially if climbing as
a three (surprisingly efficient if done properly), the Reverso is highly
recommended.
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