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The Chasm, Pitch 1
© Charlie wp Hill, Apr 2008
Route: The Chasm
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Climbers: Beverley Baker
Camera used: Pentax Optio WPi
superb rock scenery, what a feature. was it banked out over lowest rocks? we found them desperate when thinly covered. top pitch looks hard; any modern technical grade? overall? FA was under snow in 1915 from memory. Good effort on climb and pic
Mike Lates - 03/May/09
Desperate is a good word for it, I think. Seem to remember going under a massive chock-stone and pulling up through a little gap. Snow was all quite unconsolidated. Top pitch had a difficult pull up ( shown in other photo) which felt hard for a III, maybe 4. Not done enough mixed climbing to give a definitive answer, I'm afraid. Have a photo of me bridged accross the gap above the difficulties but it's too blurred to be of any use.
Popping out through the narrow slit at the top, to look out on the view to the west on such a beautiful day was an unforgettable experience.
Charlie wp Hill - 04/May/09
just to check- you did it in just the 2 pitches or 3? love the 2 contrasting classics you've done on the same trip- Dubhs on hot rock(guess you hit slow snow higher?) and Chasm under feet of snow
Mike Lates - 06/May/09
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Yeah, we camped in there for 4 days on my birthday last year, dropped off by RIB from Elgol. The Dubhs were rock up to Sgurr Dubg Beag and snow-covered all up Sgurr Dubh Mor. Had a trying descent down Coir an Lochain. Did the Chasm a couple of days later. Was a wonderful trip! We were very lucky with the weather.
My partner asked me the same question last night, about the pitches on the Chasm. I think we actually did it in 3 pitches, with the snow-filled gully in this photo being the second. The first was a quite short, but pretty thrutchy through-route under the chockstone, and I vaguely remember belaying in an awkward position just above it.
Charlie wp Hill - 06/May/09