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Tom Randall after climbing the easier (7b) crack at le Couteray in the rain.
© jon, Jul 2010
Come on Jon, how can 2010 be historical ?
boje - 10/Aug/13
Well Ian, it's there because a) it doesn't really fit anywhere else and b) it IS historical in a way... her's a very shortened version of events (if you'll bear with me):
I find a crag just near to my house, and bolt it. At the left side of the crag are two incredible cracks which naturally I don't bolt. I tell Stevie Haston about the cracks and he brings the late Craig Luebben from Colorado along to do the honors. Craig climbs the huge offwidth using natural gear and names it Thai Boxing. Maybe he climbs the left hand crack, I don't know. Some French then come along and bolt both the cracks. A few years later Craig is killed in the Cascades, Washington. Years later, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (the Wide Boyz) come and make the second ascent of the crack on natural gear (and give it E7 6c) - very much with Craig's memory in mind - and chop the bolts: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=150800
Here's the thread about it. Some people got quite angry. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=418571
Anyway, the evening before they climbed the big crack they both climbed the 7b left hand crack in perfect style placing gear... it's solid E5 6b... the rain was LASHING down and the crack was just running with water. So you see, it's all part of a quite historical event - both cracks are now bolt free and still haven't seen a French ascent! I can see the crag from my desk as I type. Sorry for such a long winded excuse!
Maybe I'll post some more pics of it...
jon - 10/Aug/13
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I should just correct what I said about the cracks not having had a French ascent. I actually meant that Thai Boxing hasn't. The left hand crack was first climbed on gear way before it was bolted by Alain Payot, and I'm guessing that it's had loads of French ascents by now.
jon - 10/Aug/13