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query Glencoe 1934, Jock Leslie
After first ascent of SC Gully?
Big G 49 - 10/Jun/12
I wish I knew! All of these old photos are from a friend. Her Grandfather was Sir John Crofton (Cumming-Crofton route...). It would be great if I had more information.
markhammonds - 10/Jun/12
Mark - I've asked a couple of the boys and founf out a bit more for you:
Bell, Harrison & Allan had been forcing up new routes in Glencoe since 1929 and Jock Leslie,along with PD Baird and Henry Fynes-Clinton climbed the first Winter ascent of SC Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochan in March 1934. (a classic Grade III).
Others in their party were Coulson, Allberry,Kendall and Wedderburn who did the first Winter ascent of Sron na Lairig the same week with PD Baird again leading (Grade II).
A year later Bill Murray and co came on the scene before the Creagh Dhu moved up from the Cobbler. Hope this info is of some help. Graham.
Big G 49 - 11/Jun/12
Graham -- Thanks for the info: it's fantastic to know more about the history behind the photo. Hopefully other people will read your comment and find it interesting.
markhammonds - 11/Jun/12
A wee bit more info for you, Mark: Your friend's Grandfather (Sir John Crofton) was also up that week and had one first ascent with a climber whose last name was Evans - No 3 Gully just to the right of B Buttress on Aonach Dhu (Winter grade II/III). If I find out more, I'll let you know.
Big G 49 - 12/Jun/12
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This photo comes from the collection of my late father, John Crofton, and in the album I have is next to two photos on either side taken from the Aonach Eagach. To me, the rock looks much more like that on the Aonach Eagach than that on Stob Coire an Lochan - though it's a long time since I've been on either! My father labelled it '?Glencoe 1934'. Re Number 3 Gully on Aonach Dubh, the old 1965 SMC guide by L.S. Lovat says of the 'Crofton and Evans' first winter ascent that 'There were twelve pitches and the time taken was 6 hours.' My father did not remember too much about the ascent, apart from the fact that Evans was a novice (which might account for the time taken, especially as they did not wear crampons in those days in Scotland, and cut steps all the way).
Ian Crofton, SMC
iancrofton - 06/Aug/12