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The Original Start to More than a Match
© Mark Kemball, Mar 2011
Route: More than a Match (E3 5c)
Climbers: Nic Dill, Stu Bradbury.
Camera used: Canon DIGITAL IXUS 980 IS
4*VOTING: number of votes 4
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User Comments

Careful reading of the definitive guide convinced me that this is the correct start to the route. This is reasonable at E3 5c. Rockfax shows a much harder bouldery start through the roof just to Nic's right. This (I am told) is hard 6a.
Mark Kemball - 07/Mar/11
Hi Mark. You could well be correct when i did it we did the start described in my book but equally it could have started up the line you climbed. The way we did it was powerful and around the 5c/6a grade and the gear was strenuous to place, however we thought that it was E3 and no harder.
All the best
Mark Glaister
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor - 08/Mar/11
The start is more clearly shown in the other photo (which I intended to put this comment on). Interestingly, Stu Bradbury had previously thought that the start shown inyour guide was the way to go, but found it rather hard for 5c!
Mark Kemball - 08/Mar/11
Useful. Mmmm need to go do this at some point.
Fiend - 08/Mar/11
Well worth it!
Mark Kemball - 08/Mar/11
Hi Mark
As I said the way we did it was pretty powerful and that is why I stuck it high up in the E3's in the graded list. Interestingly Bruce Woodley, Brian Wilkinson and I did something around this line back in 1979/80. It was quite necky and may have been the line to the right (A Littlejohn line I think) I am away and don't have my guidebooks with me.
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor - 09/Mar/11
Probably was Aimless, claimed by Martin Crocker (roped solo) on the same day as More than a Match. Aimless looks rather sparsly protected, whereas More than a Match has good protection throughout (especially with the original start!).
Mark Kemball - 09/Mar/11
Hi Mark - I did this version. Thank you for the beta. I think it was probably a nicely sustained E2 5b this way. I think the proper start is further right according to both Rockfax and the latest N Devon guide but it is probably 6a and top end E3 according to the party who did this before us. I didn't fancy placing gear in such a strenuous position.
Kafoozalem - 03/Jul/11
The start to the right is not 6a, and not top end E3, IMHO of course. E3 5c is perfectly fair.
Andy2 - 04/Jul/11
Not what your leader said Andy :-)
Kafoozalem - 04/Jul/11
Just to add my tuppence. I did this - the harder start - today with Andy2, this time I was seconding - so no experience of placing the gear admittedly. That said, there's massive jugs and a good hand jam to hang around on to place said gear and the moves themselves, I thought were powerful, but pretty soft 5b. If it were a stand alone boulder problem I honestly think it would get V0. Not grandstanding, you boys all climb harder than me! :)
Tom Last - 31/Aug/11
Sorry, just to clarify, I thought the 5c moves were on the slab.
Tom Last - 31/Aug/11
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added March 08 2011.