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The Nipple Pitch
© steveej, Jul 2011
Route: Zodiac (A3)
Climbers: steve jones & dan roberts
5*VOTING: number of votes 9
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User Comments

Is this pitch harder when its cold?
Dan Arkle - 21/Jul/11
Harder? - I took the whipper anyway.
Enty - 26/Oct/11
Enty - this pitch was given C3F but I found no fixed gear on the entire pitch. I hammered two s/o angles. so I assume it was A3. How did you find it? the route overall was a lot less fixed than I had imagined.
steveej - 26/Oct/11
Steve. I did it clean. I went out from the last bolt about 20 ft on inverted cam hooks, nothing else - then one poped and I took a monster swing back left nearly clatering Kris. Next go about halfway across I got a no5 HB offset to disappear into the crack. It seemed bomber and gave me enough confidence to go all the way to the Nipple on cam hooks. I think maybe I got a tiny Alien in there too. Really pleased to clean it despite the whipper!
Enty - 03/Sep/12
I forgot to say regarding the fixed gear - there's a short bolt ladder up from the belay and a single bolt which is hard to clip right at the end of The Nipple.
Above The Nipple I hand placed beaks.
Enty - 03/Sep/12
Mescalito this year seemed easier than this buy with more hooking. Get on it
steveej - 03/Sep/12
I'm lying - once I'd climbed round the Nipple I climbed the crack to the belay on hand placed beaks - then it started to go dark and I hammered a beak - only time on the route I used the hammer - gutted!
Enty - 18/Dec/13
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added July 18 2011.