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Approximate line of Direct Nose Route.
© Tom Last, Apr 2012
Route: Direct Nose (VII 7)
Camera used: Canon PowerShot S95

User Comments

This is the approximate line that we took. I'm worried that I might compound the confusion a little further though as I'm not entirely certain it's accurate as it's quite foreshortened. Also, we certainly took a different line to the SMC description, which is inaccurate. So take with a pinch of salt.
Pitch 1: Take the clean slab diagonally right and up the groove.
Pitch 2: Climb the grassy groove above to belay on a small tower on the left.
Pitch 3: Walk along the ledge right (facing in) and climb up to a cave with obvious bellybutton traverse above.
Pitch 4: Crawl out of the bellybutton traverse, or move right and up over it and up to another grassy ledge.
Pitch 5: Climb up on the right and then traverse back left to the handsome cab stance (diving board)
Pitch 6: Climb up easy ground above and link into the 5a slab pitch.
Pitch 7: Climb up to the overhang on the right and pull up the crack then follow to the right of the arete (4c). Alternatively, keep left of the arete all of the way to the stance. Looks easier, but feels about E2 5b in reality.
Pitch 8: Move up to the peg and make a difficult move left to better holds, huge exposure and easier climbing to a stance above. Cary on up another crack above, then a harder crack (~4b) to easier ground.
About 150 metres of scrambling then leads past several false summits to the top.
I think that's what we did anyway, obviously, we missed the direct bit early on! The description does seem to deliberately avoid rock in favour of grass early on, but resolves itself further up. Have fun!
Tom Last - 20/Apr/12
I think that you may have gone wrong on the third pitch. Instead of heading up and right, if you step left into a groove, it leads up to 10m right of the handsome cab stance, which is an easy traverse. In your picture the dog leg in the middle of the face is avioded by going a little left and into the corner that you can see in your picture.
jonnie3430 - 03/Jun/12
Hi Jonnie. Yes that makes sense, it doesn't look very direct on my topo does it! ;) I noticed that groove on the picture (just not when it was in front of my face!), but thought I'd better post the way I went. The bottom is certainly confusing. We found that it was impossible to get to the cave in the 2 pitches suggested in the guide. Of course, we could have been in completely the wrong place, quite likely in fact. We were just glad the route resolves itself at the point it gets hard, although we still got lost and ended up on the E2(ish) variation. Good route anyway :)
Tom Last - 03/Jun/12
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added April 21 2012.