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Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune, Aiguille du Peigne, pitch 2.
Hilary Sharp, Jul 2010
© jon
Route: Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune (TD+)
Climbers: Jon de Montjoye
Camera used: Canon EOS 1000D
4*VOTING: number of votes 7
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User Comments

Pitch 2 originally 6b. Now the old bolts have been replaced by glue-ins and the pitch given 6c.
jon - 20/Jun/12
Good, I thought that was a bit mean at 6b.
Luke Brooks - 20/Jun/12
Agreed, thought this pitch was nails!
david morse - 20/Jun/12
Just realised that it's 25 years since I did this route! Can't remember this pitch in any great detail, it was the last pitch that stuck in my memory for a long time due to the runout.
Bob - 21/Jun/12
Great route. 6b felt very harsh for P2.
DoctorStone - 21/Jun/12
In that case Bob, it would be the last but one pitch that you remember being run-out. The actual last pitch is a full rope length of well protected V+ jamming crack.
jon - 21/Jun/12
I'd maybe vote for 6b+ for this pitch, but then it was soaking when we did it. The last pitch is only ~35m tops (not a full rope length) and is a really good pitch of Fr5+! Last but 1 pitch is the run out one, and feels harder than Fr6a when on the lead, which I wasn't.
andyinglis - 20/Aug/13
I,d written E3 6a in my old guidebook.
rocksol - 10/Jul/15
I think that describes it much better, Phil.
jon - 10/Jul/15
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added June 20 2012.