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Self knotting rope
© Martyn Maltby, Sep 2012
Route: North Face Ordinary
Camera used: Canon PowerShot G12
So, after the 50 metre abseil on double ropes, (in a blizzard) the rope pulled through OK until the very last bit. Had to climb back up to free it and found this.
Martyn Maltby - 19/Sep/12
Ive had this happen to my ropes twice in twenty years
3 Names - 19/Sep/12
When I pull through the final end I try to do it as gently as possible so as not to whip the rope round causing a friction knot. I don't know how much control you've really got.
Captain Solo - 20/Sep/12
I managed this feat once, in 1977 with a brand-new rope, and had to re-climb a crux pitch to find why my rope was stuck. I have told the story many times but I suspect nobody believed me - thanks Martyn (and Vince) for your corroboration!
petemeads - 20/Sep/12
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I hope you didn't have to prussik on that knot....aah!!!
Sean Kelly - 21/Sep/12