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Nijinski Crux
© smokey, May 2004
Route: NIjinski (E5 6a) (E5 6a)
Climbers: Pete Hamilton
3*VOTING: number of votes 20
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User Comments

Side runners on Njinski?!?!!?
GCW - 24/Nov/04
They are not side runners, that's top-roping!!
Dave Pritchard - 22/Dec/04
Actually this isn't toproping despite how it might look!! The only pro on the route is from microwires crammed into a very thin crack, far to the left of the arete. This demands a leftwards traverse from the arete mid-route to place the gear, and then a return traverse to gain the arete once again before attempting the crux. A fall on the crux (or indeed at any point therefore) risks a decent pendulum into the tree on only the smallest of microwires!
Although the attempt was a well-rehersed headpoint, the climb was protected exactly as specified in the guide and with gear placed on lead.
smokey - 22/Dec/04
OK, I offer an unreserved apology. When I did the route back in the mists ot time, the guidebook of the time made no mention of traversing left to place runners, and I had not twigged that this was the decription in more recent guides (always wondered why the guy on Nijinski on cover of last SMC guide had ropes on)
Dave Pritchard - 28/Oct/05
The route also use to get E3......
andyinglis - 16/Apr/08
There used to be a tree at 2/3rd height though.
JamieSparkes - 22/Jan/09
The side runners are pointless, they wouldn't hold your weight never mind a fall! Amazing line, quite serious, top end E5 maybe even E6??
willackers - 16/Jun/09
check the logbook comments re the fall
JamieSparkes - 28/Feb/10
Nijinski was described in the previous guidebook as using siderunners, as well as the current one - so that's been the default for at least 16 years.
This move isn't the crux.
The small wires are good enough assuming you have lots of RPs and small offsets.
Fiend - 21/Apr/10
You have to go off route to place the runners. I don't think you can take the E5 tick if you have the side runners in.
willackers - 21/Aug/12
Led this today. Exactly the same comments still apply as from 3 years ago: Guidebook grade and description describes these runners specifically, they are good enough with enough RPs and HBs. And the next move is still the crux.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
The side runners, that it was originally lead with by Willie Todd, were the crack of Promentary Direct and the big tree on the left...so more or less a top-rope ascent. Cubby gave Nijinski its first real lead using the gear in thin crack that is seen in this shot.
redjerry - 04/Mar/15
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added November 20 2004.