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Pegs at bottom of 4th pitch. One is very rusty, the other has a fracture at the back
© Me, Jan 2014
We abbed off of these in the summer, backed up with a nut like that. I have never been more terrified... God knows what a fall on to them would do.
Alex the Alex - 28/Feb/14
Yeah, we refused to climb on in case one of us fell and shocked them. We attempted to abseil off them, but the bottom peg just started bending when we weighted it. We rang some friends and got them to chuck a rope down for us.
CJoyce - 28/Feb/14
The clue's in the name, folks.
To be fair, the peg situation hasn't changed for some time - and it's always been a choice between using a wire for pro, or using the crack as a hold. The pitch is a two-move wonder, but is about as out there as it gets for an E1.
Did it once, ten years ago. Luckily, on-sighted it without the usual faffing. But never again, even as a second: the archetypal FF2 with shock loading.
maisie - 28/Feb/14
Couple of bolts will sort that out, but change the name. Any suggestions?
Sean Kelly - 28/Feb/14
If you sit down you can get a cam at the back of the ledge.
Martin Wing - 01/Mar/14
no need for pegs at all ...large cam at foot level.... good wires and small cams in crack above ...probably more, if pegs removed.
eggburt1952 - 02/Mar/14
Just add a bolt. Safe and less messy. That way it will free up this crack for anyone wanting to use placed protection.
ClanAdventures - 02/Mar/14
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He's got a side ways number 2 nut.
What's the problem? Bomber Belay that.
r0x0r.wolfo - 25/Apr/14