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In the headwall of the Mönch north face.
© Gordon Nudd, Aug 1987
Route: North face (nose=Nollen).
Mönch, Berner Alps, Switzerland
Climbers: Roy Klichowski
Camera used: Olympus OM
4*VOTING: number of votes 2
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Roy and I drove to the west alps with the intention of climbing something or other. We hadn't however expected new snow in the area, and the guides said that the only thing that still could be done was the Moench Nollen (north route). Unfortunately we had only mainly brought gear for rock or easy mixed routes, and had only one axe each. But we tried it anyway.
At the near vertical nose (Nollen) Roy led with the two axes, and I followed on the end of the rope with one(!) ice screw in one hand, which just about worked.
Near the top we tried to go direct to the peak, but found out why everybody traverses off to the right, to the west ridge - I couldn't get the ice screws into the concrete ice! I then just about managed to get across right to the rocks.
It was the first time for Roy in the Berner Alps, and at the peak he just shook his head when he saw the 'circus' at the Jungfraujoch.
A bit later some guys jumped off the peak down the north side with the then new paragliders.
At the back the Jungfrau. Since the 27.08.1992 there is a nice flat bivouac spot in the lowest point of the north ridge that can be seen just above the center of the picture (in the shade). But that's another story..
Nuddy - 19/Jan/07
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added January 20 2007.