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Grandes Jorasses - The Ypercouloir of the South Face
© Luca Signorelli
The Ypercouloir of Grandes Jorasses - one of wildest and most mysterious of all great modern ice climbs of the MB range - seen from the Pra Sec ridge of GJ.
First climbed in August 1978, this was the masterpiece of the Giancarlo Grassi - Gianni Comino team, and an extremely technical and serious route far ahead of its time. Its remoteness and seriousness has limited repetitions to just three, the last two in 2006.
Luca Signorelli - 11/Sep/07
Nice! I even just had a look in the guidebook to see if its within my lowly climbing abilities. Is the approach very threatened or is it ok?
jongriffith - 11/Feb/08
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Hello Jon, the route description in "Ice, Snow and Mixed" is just Giancarlo Grassi's own translated (with some mistake). Damilano's grade IV 5+ is that given by Gabarrou and Marsigny in they 1985 repeat, and according to the two teams who did the line in 2006, has little to do with real difficulties - more like V 6R, and the first pitch gets X.
The approach is 5 hours from the Boccalatte hut. It's not terribly exposed to rockfall unless the temperature is too hig. Howewer, after recent snowfall may be avalanche prone.
Luca Signorelli - 11/Feb/08