16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand arete of the central cave to ledges, then the thin crack (poor small wires) to a bolder exit. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Mithen 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s.


ClimberDateStyle
Pete Wimbush 15/May Lead
with Richard Williams
PeteWilson 06/May 2nd O/S
Hillson 06/May Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead β
No? Yes! 04/Sep/15 Lead

Very hard to protect crux ! Matt then led it

augustus trout 28/Aug/15 2nd
with Dave H
London Luke 19/Jul/15 2nd
Tim_C7 19/Jul/15 Lead

Relearning how to climb grit, good fun

with Luke Williams
DanChad 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 30/May/15 2nd

Dan got 2 small normal wires in the crack. Both looked sound when I took them out. Micro's not required.

AJ007 20/May/15 Solo O/S
TobyA 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Tom R
ralphio 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Got three micro's in the crack. Only one of them would have held a fall. Crux move felt soft 5b.

with Ade, Nik
tebs 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Aidan
Canyak ??/2015 -
cookie-doo 02/Dec/14 2nd
BDC 02/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
greenclimb 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
Gudge 02/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Lenny 02/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Ground Up

with Chris
Hardcore Pat 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/14 -
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Gudge 14/May/14 Lead O/S

Solid enough wires (micros help) - laced crack. Nice route!

sianais 05/May/14 2nd
climberchristy 03/May/14 Lead O/S

More like top end of HVS if you've got microcams or micro wires. Nice little climb.

with Ben Cole
Haydn Jones 28/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with neil jobling
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/14 Lead
with phill ukc
the power 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
cobweb 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt

i seconded it previously when it was very hot , much easier when a bit cooler

jshields 29/Jul/12 Lead
with Ruth Gordon
max_chan 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice route. HVS in BMC guide, which seems correct.

with Steve Carty
will_benfold 10/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead
chrisbussell 22/May/12 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Helen Gibson 22/May/12 Lead
nigel pearson 20/May/12 2nd O/S
with Robin
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
Kirill 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
cem 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
mtempest 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31/Mar/12 2nd

Praise be for Wild Country Superlight Rocks !!! 3 bombers in the crack. The move up above to the break was thin. My foot skittered but I managed to slap and hold on.

will_benfold 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
mes32 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
theotherpetehill 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
mark20 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Dave Foster 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Si 2
Hidden 18/Sep/11 2nd O/S
tebs 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Graeme Hammond 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Jim
Jim Slater 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
AMarchant 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Had some bomber micro wires so soft E1, must feel bold and certainly E1 without. Nice climb :)

with Becky E
Becky E 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
nadeem 18/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Miller
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Oliver Houston 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Martin Haworth 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt

You can get a good wire in before the crux, but it is only a micro.

with Pete Harris
Tony Holdsworth 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A mean difficult to protect route.

with Peter Harris
eduardo 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

OK-ish nuts in the crack, easy once reached the break above.

with Brian R
Brian Rodgers 05/Sep/10 2nd
Oliver Houston 11/Jul/10 Lead dog

slipped off sweaty slopers... onto a very nice brass offset :)

Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mousey
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
Pilch 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Went for it after a bit of hesitation.

with Graham
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
BeccaSnowden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

V good route

with Andy
thomasadixon 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Lisa, andy
sadams 10/Oct/09 Lead
with Ed Brown
perfectlynormalbeast 04/Oct/09 2nd dog

One stupid fall, the key move is actually quite easy. Trying to speed up before the rain came down.

with Rich Lines
Hidden 20/Sep/09 -
RCrockford 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Felt like HVS - good gear where it counts, crux move went fairly easily (being tall helps).

with Mark D
Diggler 19/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead
highrepute 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ben Sidsaph 25/May/09 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
rd2904 15/Apr/09 Lead
with Darren Southcott
Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
cem 29/Mar/09 2nd
Si dH 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Thought this was HVS, please to see it gets E1 in rockfax but dont really agree. Micro wires help though.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
simonp ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
reg_measures ??/2009 2nd
with neil and claire
Hidden 09/Dec/08 Solo O/S
PenJD 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Willis
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 25/Sep/08 2nd
with MarkWesterman
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead rpt
darren1 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Andrew Doney
Mark_RMC 24/Aug/08 Lead

After a month without climbing, I decided to warm up on an E1, becuase it looked like a great line. It was. A delicate crux section above a "bomber microwire!" . Reaaly pleased with the lead.

with Alex Ford
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
TomHaigh 15/Jul/08 2nd O/S
adam carless 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Definitely not fun for the short - a couple of pretty sketchy moves needed before the "smile" comes within reach. Good enough gear though if you don't mind tiny nuts.

Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 TR
Stig 18/May/08 Lead rpt

Hard for the short and then more like E1.

with Jonathan Teale
Rob84 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Ian Parnell ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Hidden 12/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
jimdanson 27/Sep/07 2nd
with Martin Ibbotson
NeilGriffiths 09/Sep/07 -
with Simon Frost
Mattyk 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

One move at the top really.. plenty of gear in crack, none of it bomber but maybe one piece would hold?

danm ?/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/07 2nd rpt
A Crook 24/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Joe Costello 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with WimC
Hidden 16/Jul/06 TR
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
Owen W-G 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Did this as a less scary-looking alternative to the main target of Counts Buttress. Found the crux moves pretty hard and the highest nuts not quite as good as I'd have liked them to be. Surprised to see it given HVS in some guides.

Jack Symmons ?/Feb/06 Lead

Bloody pumpy

with Chris T
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Dec/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/05 2nd
steveb2006 13/Nov/05 Lead
with Pete Carter
Hidden 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Oct/05 2nd
with chris todd
Hidden 20/Mar/05 2nd
Gus 01/Nov/04 Lead
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 2nd
Stig 16/Jul/04 2nd O/S

I backed off this on the day.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ken Taylor 01/Jun/04 TR
with Gerry Dunford
Ben1983 ??/2004 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 05/Oct/03 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Sep/03 Solo O/S
andybirtwistle 20/Sep/03 -
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/03 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/02 Lead

Not sure about the date

Trobbo 20/Apr/02 2nd
with mike sissons
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 13/May/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/01 2nd
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead
Strong Steve 13/May/01 Lead O/S
The Reaper 13/May/00 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/99 Lead
Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Roget 26/Jan/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Podling 05/May/96 Lead
The Reaper 23/Jun/94 TR O/S

Shunt

crater 29/May/94 TR
Martin Bennett 03/Oct/93 -
with MT, SF
Stoney Boy 28/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
Chris Ellis 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Andy Barker
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/89 Lead
Andy Say 01/Jan/89 Solo
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
craig h 22/May/88 Lead O/S

My first route at Stanage

with Charlie and Matt (Stalybridge)
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden 22/Aug/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
mark-abz 15/Nov/84 TR
Hidden 25/Feb/84 Lead
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hidden 24/May/81 2nd
Hidden 15/May/65 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
payney1973, Hidden, rurp, Hidden, kenneM, Graham Booth, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set