A memorable experience and in a way one of the best single pitch routes I've done. The rock is pretty solid but it's still pretty gripping in places, particularly up to the first break. Hard work after the Strand and Positron the previous day! Nice gentle introduction up the slanting break (5b/c with so-so gear, Tim thought this would have been the crux on lead, I thought it wasn't too bad but certainly serious),then easy to a good cam. Where next? A solitary peg shows the way. Thankfully not too hard, 5a-ish It's a bendy, rusty knife blade, pretty sure it wouldn't hold a proper fall. No other gear and looks hard going straight up but a rising leftwards traverse is more like it. Nice 5b/c sequence to gain the first break, don't fall off here or you might not be climbing again for a while if the peg snaps, which it probably would do. Then it gets steep! A succession of 5b and 5c sequences to get from one break to another, fortunately with some good rests and gear in some of the breaks (good advice on having at least a double set of cams and extending the runners). Eventually get to the second peg, decent rest. Next peg looks a long way away and there are no holds! A V3 boulder problem is the last thing you need after 35m of tough climbing. The peg is a rusty knifeblade but much better than the first one, might actually hold a small fall and there are good cams not far below. Spent ages standing next to the peg trying to figure out the crux move, climbing up and down in the hope of finding a sure fire way of doing it as didn't want to blow it! In the end just had to commit to the move and it was fine, a really nice technical move to the juggy break. Clip the peg and a small cam, happy days! Jugfest up the last few moves to the top. Made it! No chalk on the route except in some of the breaks made it feel like a voyage of discovery across a sea of funky rock. I'd say techically and physically it's E3 but deserves E4 for the serious sections and the grip factor. Fantastic!Misha - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Tim Newton
tim newton - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with misha nepogodiev
Brilliant wall climbing, just make sure you extend your runners under the small roofs !!!
mr mills - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Mick Lovatt
dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with alice thompson
Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson
Good intro to Doris.
zero six - Lead O/S - Jul/12
wicked mega cool! Dancing with Doris! haha an awesome route.
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 08/May/12 with Alex Mason
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/12
Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 29/Jan/12 with Matt Burdekin
Immense in every sense, a great climbing experience! One of North Wales' very best. Bring lots of cams, doubles or triples of small through to medium and then some larger stuff: most will appreciate a Tech Friend 4 or similar for end of starting crack. I thought this was never hard but never easy and I was drained by the top: holding positions to place and re-place cams, continual up and down to check rock / holds. It feels quite isolated when you reach the first break after the peg and the cams are only OK. Keep trucking here though as you get even better cams in the next break and a general improvement in the rock. I just can't see this being E5 (as a few have suggested), there are too many rests and the climbing is never really physical. Indeed, if you trust this sort of rock and don't think cams in laminated and friable horizontal breaks are the devil's work then it's 'easy'. I certainly can't however see why NWR gives this easy E4, it never is and neither is Direct Hit or Mermaid for that matter, both of which are a good notch harder (I think most consider Mermaid E5 and pokey at that).
ksjs - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/11 with Matt
Hidden - Aug/11
Out with Jon's birthday crew. All chalked up which I reckon makes a big difference on this route. Absolutely fucking, brilliant climbing. Between pegs I stepped right and used a quartz mini-rib to gain peg.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 19/Jul/11 with Owain Atkins
owain86 - 2nd β - 19/Jul/11 with Alex Mason
Hidden - May/11
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
nick cruised even after pulling large hold off!
phil64 - AltLd - 09/Sep/10 with nick bullock
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10
nige - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with mark hounslea
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09
Great pitch.... as good as Pagan. Partner struck down with extreme man flu so headed home.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Kev
Kevin Avery - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with rich kirby
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Ed Brown