Gwynedd > Craig Doris >
 
Byzantium*** E4 6a

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50m. An exceptionally good wall climb on "predominantly" solid rock. Similar experience to Pagan, perhaps a touch easier?? Star at the diagonal fault and follow this up and rightwards for 8m (reasonable gear). At the pod pull out leftwards onto the wall and boldly weave your way up to the break, passing a poor peg. The climbing is never that hard but very bold. On arrival at the break, scurry back and fro along this seeking out the best gear. Cross the overlaps in the centre of the wall passing a poor situ thread. (Good gear in next break). Continue up the wall more steeply and past better gear to a peg. Make harder moves passing this and another peg above. Easier ground and the top follows.
Littlejohn & Hardwick 12/Mar/1987

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/May/14

Easy climbing on big holds and poor gear, then a short crux section at the top.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with james marjot

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/14

big pitch!
Ed Booth - Lead β - 03/Mar/14 with Niels Ernst-Williams

Loose, pretty steady, great fun. Climbing in t-shirts!
anguskille - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/14 with Ed Booth

A memorable experience and in a way one of the best single pitch routes I've done. The rock is pretty solid but it's still pretty gripping in places, particularly up to the first break. Hard work after the Strand and Positron the previous day! Nice gentle introduction up the slanting break (5b/c with so-so gear, Tim thought this would have been the crux on lead, I thought it wasn't too bad but certainly serious),then easy to a good cam. Where next? A solitary peg shows the way. Thankfully not too hard, 5a-ish It's a bendy, rusty knife blade, pretty sure it wouldn't hold a proper fall. No other gear and looks hard going straight up but a rising leftwards traverse is more like it. Nice 5b/c sequence to gain the first break, don't fall off here or you might not be climbing again for a while if the peg snaps, which it probably would do. Then it gets steep! A succession of 5b and 5c sequences to get from one break to another, fortunately with some good rests and gear in some of the breaks (good advice on having at least a double set of cams and extending the runners). Eventually get to the second peg, decent rest. Next peg looks a long way away and there are no holds! A V3 boulder problem is the last thing you need after 35m of tough climbing. The peg is a rusty knifeblade but much better than the first one, might actually hold a small fall and there are good cams not far below. Spent ages standing next to the peg trying to figure out the crux move, climbing up and down in the hope of finding a sure fire way of doing it as didn't want to blow it! In the end just had to commit to the move and it was fine, a really nice technical move to the juggy break. Clip the peg and a small cam, happy days! Jugfest up the last few moves to the top. Made it! No chalk on the route except in some of the breaks made it feel like a voyage of discovery across a sea of funky rock. I'd say techically and physically it's E3 but deserves E4 for the serious sections and the grip factor. Fantastic!
Misha - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Tim Newton

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with misha nepogodiev

Brilliant wall climbing, just make sure you extend your runners under the small roofs !!!
mr mills - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Mick Lovatt

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

Good intro to Doris.
zero six - Lead O/S - Jul/12

wicked mega cool! Dancing with Doris! haha an awesome route.
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 08/May/12 with Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/12

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 29/Jan/12 with Matt Burdekin

Immense in every sense, a great climbing experience! One of North Wales' very best. Bring lots of cams, doubles or triples of small through to medium and then some larger stuff: most will appreciate a Tech Friend 4 or similar for end of starting crack. I thought this was never hard but never easy and I was drained by the top: holding positions to place and re-place cams, continual up and down to check rock / holds. It feels quite isolated when you reach the first break after the peg and the cams are only OK. Keep trucking here though as you get even better cams in the next break and a general improvement in the rock. I just can't see this being E5 (as a few have suggested), there are too many rests and the climbing is never really physical. Indeed, if you trust this sort of rock and don't think cams in laminated and friable horizontal breaks are the devil's work then it's 'easy'. I certainly can't however see why NWR gives this easy E4, it never is and neither is Direct Hit or Mermaid for that matter, both of which are a good notch harder (I think most consider Mermaid E5 and pokey at that).
ksjs - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/11 with Matt

Hidden - Aug/11

Out with Jon's birthday crew. All chalked up which I reckon makes a big difference on this route. Absolutely fucking, brilliant climbing. Between pegs I stepped right and used a quartz mini-rib to gain peg.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 19/Jul/11 with Owain Atkins

Amazing pitch!
owain86 - 2nd β - 19/Jul/11 with Alex Mason

Hidden - May/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

nick cruised even after pulling large hold off!
phil64 - AltLd - 09/Sep/10 with nick bullock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10

nige - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with mark hounslea

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09 with Nick Arding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Ed Brown

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, rustaldo, Tom Keaveny, Mike Goldthorp, mr mills, barni, oliverthomp

Voting
Total votes cast 48
hard E50 of 17
E50 of 17
easy E54 of 17
hard E46 of 17
E46 of 17
easy E41 of 17
hard E30 of 17
E30 of 17
easy E30 of 17
hard 6b0 of 17
6b0 of 17
easy 6b0 of 17
hard 6a1 of 17
6a7 of 17
easy 6a8 of 17
hard 5c1 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars12 of 14
2 Stars2 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead17 of 29 (58.6%)
Followed7 of 29 (24.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 29 (3.4%)
Unknown4 of 29 (13.8%)

'Climbed'6 of 29 (20.7%)
clean O/S16 of 29 (55.2%)
clean β4 of 29 (13.8%)
clean rpt2 of 29 (6.9%)
dogged1 of 29 (3.4%)