10m.

Rockfax Description
Another technical teaser. Start below and right of a slight rib and scrape up the lower bulges to an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Black Circuit - Stanage, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak District Highballs.


ClimberDateStyle
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 20/Sep Sent x

Always wanted to do this, but always felt desperate. Today, of all days, was the day I did it - warm, humid, and no wind whatsoever. Odd!

danJBA 10/Apr Sent x
with kiaran
Hidden 26/Feb Sent x
Jonny Nick 16/Jan Sent x
Hidden 27/Dec/15 Sent x
MSchobitz 03/Jun/15 Sent x
Calum Wadsworth 03/Jun/15 Sent x
with Matt Groom, David R, Nick P, Alex, micki
Nick1812P 03/Jun/15 Sent x

took a while to suss it out then went quickly

Matt Groom 03/Jun/15 Sent
drysori 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
Matt Groom 03/May/15 Solo
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Sent x
Nick1812P 14/May/14 Solo dnf
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Solo
al123 16/Jan/14 Sent
al123 06/Jan/14 Sent
with Henry
ChrisAllen ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
PeteWilson 11/Dec/13 Solo

cool lil' route

with Dave
john lynch 06/Dec/13 Sent rpt
with ed luke
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Solo β
john lynch 14/Nov/13 Sent

ace

simon1965 12/Nov/13 Solo
with James
Stig 12/Nov/13 Solo β

Pad. Sublime gritstoning.

Brown 02/Feb/13 Solo
with Lilifa
Hidden 06/Jan/13 Solo RP
tebs 02/Dec/12 Sent rpt

Utterly brilliant. How people have given this anything less than 3 stars is completely beyond me. Every move on the thing is perfect! Felt like a very satisfying flash today, couldn't remember a thing about the couple of very abortive goes I had on it a while back.

with Al, Adam
Oddjob 02/Dec/12 Sent β
with Bart, Adam B
Jonathan Hall 24/Nov/12 Solo
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Sent
J.Wells 14/Oct/12 Sent x
Andrew Jennings 28/Aug/12 Sent
with Dan Mcmanus
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Sent
mtempest 31/Mar/12 Solo

With mat

with Steve Waters, Mynydd
mark20 19/Feb/12 Sent O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Sent
Hidden 03/Feb/12 Solo dnf
benkelsey 03/Feb/12 Solo dnf

almost got a sequence to get off the ground.. felt pretty pleased with that.

Hidden ??/2012 -
disturbed_one51 30/Nov/11 Solo
simon1965 15/Oct/11 Sent rpt

First go to easy ground

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Sent
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Sent
belay bunny turned bad 15/Oct/11 Sent x
Sam Carr ?/Oct/11 Solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/11 Sent x

Tricky start, took a bit of working out but it's pretty much over when your feet are about 2m up. Nice moves though!

ben.meakin 10/Jul/11 Solo
Fran S8 10/Jul/11 Sent
Ian Broome 01/Apr/11 Solo rpt

Found this really tricky has a pebble been lost? Or i've lost some gritstone knack! v.good conditions, but the step up a move or so after the start felt really hard.

Hidden 19/Mar/11 Solo
simondunf 06/Mar/11 Sent
Hidden 03/Jan/11 Solo
davebonner ??/2011 -
Hidden 28/Nov/10 Sent
drysori 13/Nov/10 Solo
akhughes 10/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Solo dnf
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Sent dnf
adi bryant ??/2010 Solo RP
Hidden 28/Dec/09 Sent x
Hidden 18/Dec/09 Sent
Hidden 10/Dec/09 Solo O/S
simon1965 04/Dec/09 Solo O/S
with Matt
Hidden 04/Dec/09 Solo
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
mshorter 10/Oct/09 -
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Solo
sparkass 10/Oct/09 Sent x
Ally Baba 10/Oct/09 Solo O/S
with Boo Boo
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Solo
Somerset swede basher 05/Sep/09 Solo

Got it second go.

with Jon Sergeant, Nick Payne and Nick White
Harry Thorpe 16/Aug/09 Sent x
Tim W 03/May/09 Sent x
Alex Mason 06/Mar/09 Solo

3rd go, Awesome pebble crushing. once off the floor you just have to keep it together, couldnt see anything apart from chalk as it was dark. No idea how i stayed on at one point, true grit.

with Ste, Lee and G
ukb shark 31/Jan/09 Sent
Ram MkiV 31/Jan/09 Sent O/S
GrahamPlant 18/Jan/09 Solo
tuftynick ?/Jan/09 Solo rpt
with pob
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo RP

Ground-up

Hidden 09/Dec/08 Solo β
steve_biczyk 07/Dec/08 Sent
with Marcus Pontin
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Sent
lowersharpnose 15/Oct/08 Solo

With a mat and spotter. Fell off on my first attempt, got it second try. Chuffed.

with PeakDJ
Hidden 15/Oct/08 Solo
TomHaigh 15/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Sent rpt
Mattyk 12/Jul/08 Sent x

With mat, took a few goes to work out bottom sequence. ACE!

with Ali K
Ben1983 16/Feb/08 Solo RP
Ian Broome 06/Jan/08 Solo rpt
Boy ??/2008 -

With direct start (7a+)

Bullybones ??/2008 -
Ian Broome 16/Nov/07 Solo rpt

After getting further on Shirleys' Temple!

Ian Broome 21/Oct/07 Solo

used shallow pocket out right for Right hand to get started, felt desperate to start any further left!

Hidden 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S
willackers 07/Oct/07 Solo O/S
with Tom Mills
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
craig d 04/Aug/07 Solo
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2002 Solo
Roget 27/Oct/01 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 15/Feb/01 Solo
Strong Steve 29/Apr/00 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
marconi ?/Jun/96 Solo RP

Ground up. Climbed whilst doing work experience at Outside at the Foundry, these guys took me out one evening for some fun!

with James P, Craig
crossleysm ??/1994 Solo

c.94

Stoney Boy 02/Apr/93 Solo O/S
Rich Kirby 20/Oct/91 Lead
John Clinch (Ampthill) 11/Nov/89 -

I ticked this off in my guide book. But I think I may have stepped in from the side. Although the Rockfax bouldering guide sugests that this is normal. My hardest problem I think

Hidden 03/Aug/89 TR
goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Solo O/S
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
stp 22/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1984 Solo
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/82 Solo
andy gittins ??/1982 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam McCarthy, Hidden, KennyGeoghegan, Hidden, rustaldo, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Reid, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Andrew Barker
Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set