North Yorkshire > Kilnsey >
 
Dead Calm*** 8a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Over The Thumb
 
The Overlap >>
25m. climb WYSIWYG to the big flake right of the belay . Rock up right into the groove (on The Overlap) Pull up right and climb to obvious good undercuts . Hard moves up and left and then back right to grab the belay chain give the crux .
Mat Troilet Mick Johnston Jul/2008
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

holiday grades!!
C coldwell-storry - Lead RP - 05/Sep/13 with J Freeman

7c+/8a
Nicolas Duboust - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead RP - 21/Jul/13 with Martin Fisher

emily_allen - Lead dog - 20/Jul/13

emily_allen - Lead dog - 07/Jul/13

one fall/rest mid crux
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with Martin Fisher

Bad finger really unhappy I think its the underclings on wiziwig.
julesp - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with iain jo and alex

one fall/rest mid crux
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with Jacob Cook

route feels completely different at the top now the birds nest is gone. First few moves of crux feel easier with a heel/toe cam but its hard to keep the tension releasing it.
julesp - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with iain jo and alex

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 27/Jun/13 with Andy F

Tried last year, couldn't touch it. Got it 2nd RP this year.
Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with keefe

Tr in 2 but don't have pe to do boulder prob top unless full rest below it! No point tryin to Rp today. Had trouble gettin knee bar to stick too Like tims inside flag gettin to undercut at top of wizy -felt much more stable
julesp - TR dog - 09/Sep/12 with Iain

Getting the boulder problem clean to top and coming down to underclings to switch hands on jug. Still not happy with the move at the top of wizy but think i just have to do it that way.
julesp - TR dog - 21/Aug/12 with Iain

need to remember to get weight over the knee bar before crossing into flake
julesp - Lead dog - 20/Aug/12 with Iain

clean up to the boulder prob at top
julesp - TR dog - 19/Aug/12 with Iain

managed all moves i have a new project :)
julesp - TR dog - 16/Aug/12 with iain d and aiden

JM - Lead RP - 14/Aug/12 with Matt Welsh

flash
bustermartin - Lead β - 12/Aug/12

First redpoint. Is this really 8a..? Skipped the last two clips, fun times!
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12

Jon Garside - Lead RP - 30/May/12 with Becky

Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 17/Jul/11 with Tom Mills

jfreeman - Lead RP - 10/Jul/11 with Chris Gore, Dave Nicholl

Retro-flash. 1st go today after having a on-sight go at it two years ago
Ally Smith - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

With Aly Smith
edinbed - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

Made up,1st 8a. Can't quite believe it!
GeoffG - Lead - 11/Jun/11

don't see why you would need to grab the chain at all?! Only 2 moves really. WYSIWIG part probably the crux still. 7c+ max
Cassidy - Lead RP - 15/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Grit Wraith - Lead - Oct/10

3rd redpoint. Soft
Stewart B - Lead RP - 03/Sep/10 with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath

2nd day
keefe - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10 with Gareth

put the clips in and clipped the chain at the top
nickmoulden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/10 with Charlene Schilz

Hidden - Lead RP - Jul/10

All about the last 4 metres
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with GrantB

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/May/10

Steve Crowe - Lead - 2010

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2010

chain grab method. maybe 7c+? Felt easier than china crisis, the ashes, man with a gun etc
lx - Lead β - 12/Jul/09 with Matt

Very good. Right method on crux clipping the belay
marky - Lead RP - 21/Jun/09 with Tim Lowe

Burly. Did right hand finish, clipped the belay from the good flat hold.
andy farnell - Lead RP - 20/Jun/09 with Ian Patterson

Kevin Avery - Lead RP - 19/Jun/09 with Toby Dunn

the original route climbed up left and then back right to the belay which you could not clip and was hard and scary to grab since we could not clip the bolt below either ! A few new holds and a different finish have now been unearthed . Its good its 7c+ but it aint Dead Calm !!!
death drop - Jul/08

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
thebigfriendlymoose, julesp, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 48
hard 8a+0 of 29
8a+0 of 29
easy 8a+0 of 29
hard 8a0 of 29
8a12 of 29
easy 8a9 of 29
hard 7c+7 of 29
7c+0 of 29
easy 7c+1 of 29
3 Stars2 of 19
2 Stars15 of 19
1 Star2 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead36 of 41 (87.8%)
Toproped4 of 41 (9.8%)
Unknown1 of 41 (2.4%)

'Climbed'6 of 41 (14.6%)
clean β2 of 41 (4.9%)
clean RP20 of 41 (48.8%)
dogged13 of 41 (31.7%)