North Yorkshire > Kilnsey >
 
Dead Calm*** 8a

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25m. climb WYSIWYG to the big flake right of the belay . Rock up right into the groove (on The Overlap) Pull up right and climb to obvious good undercuts . Hard moves up and left and then back right to grab the belay chain give the crux .
Mat Troilet Mick Johnston Jul/2008
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

First Redpoint today!
emily_allen - Lead RP - 10/Aug/14

WB - Lead RP - 27/Jul/14 with Chris

adamjeffs - Lead RP - 08/Jul/14 with james

Ethan - Lead β - 03/Jul/14 with Seth Walker, Don Walker

Hard 7c+, probably.
innes - Lead RP - 03/Jul/14 with Ruth

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/14

Yay!!! First 8a gutted it's to be downgraded :( oh we'll will enjoy it in the interim ;)
julesp - Lead RP - 30/May/14 with Buzz and jess

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/May/14

Yesterday and today 3 rp attempts falling off side pull at top
julesp - Lead dog - 26/May/14 with Rachel

julesp - Lead dog - 25/May/14 with Rachel and Arran

Fell off goin for left hand sloper at top
julesp - Lead dog - 18/May/14 with Iain

Got through wysiwyg crux to top clean
julesp - TR dog - 17/May/14 with Iain

Got all moves but not clean through boulder prob
julesp - TR dog - 04/May/14 with iain and jo

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/May/14

holiday grades!!
C coldwell-storry - Lead RP - 05/Sep/13 with J Freeman

7c+/8a
Nicolas Duboust - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead RP - 21/Jul/13 with Martin Fisher

emily_allen - Lead dog - 20/Jul/13

emily_allen - Lead dog - 07/Jul/13

one fall/rest mid crux
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with Martin Fisher

Bad finger really unhappy I think its the underclings on wiziwig.
julesp - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with iain jo and alex

one fall/rest mid crux
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with Jacob Cook

route feels completely different at the top now the birds nest is gone. First few moves of crux feel easier with a heel/toe cam but its hard to keep the tension releasing it.
julesp - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13 with iain jo and alex

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 27/Jun/13 with Andy F

Tried last year, couldn't touch it. Got it 2nd RP this year.
Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with keefe

bigie bob - Lead RP - 2013

Tr in 2 but don't have pe to do boulder prob top unless full rest below it! No point tryin to Rp today. Had trouble gettin knee bar to stick too Like tims inside flag gettin to undercut at top of wizy -felt much more stable
julesp - TR dog - 09/Sep/12 with Iain

Getting the boulder problem clean to top and coming down to underclings to switch hands on jug. Still not happy with the move at the top of wizy but think i just have to do it that way.
julesp - TR dog - 21/Aug/12 with Iain

need to remember to get weight over the knee bar before crossing into flake
julesp - Lead dog - 20/Aug/12 with Iain

clean up to the boulder prob at top
julesp - TR dog - 19/Aug/12 with Iain

managed all moves i have a new project :)
julesp - TR dog - 16/Aug/12 with iain d and aiden

JM - Lead RP - 14/Aug/12 with Matt Welsh

flash
bustermartin - Lead β - 12/Aug/12

First redpoint. Is this really 8a..? Skipped the last two clips, fun times!
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12

Jon Garside - Lead RP - 30/May/12 with Becky

Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 17/Jul/11 with Tom Mills

jfreeman - Lead RP - 10/Jul/11 with Chris Gore, Dave Nicholl

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

With Aly Smith
edinbed - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

Made up,1st 8a. Can't quite believe it!
GeoffG - Lead - 11/Jun/11

don't see why you would need to grab the chain at all?! Only 2 moves really. WYSIWIG part probably the crux still. 7c+ max
Cassidy - Lead RP - 15/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Grit Wraith - Lead - Oct/10

3rd redpoint. Soft
Stewart B - Lead RP - 03/Sep/10 with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath

2nd day
keefe - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10 with Gareth

put the clips in and clipped the chain at the top
nickmoulden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/10 with Charlene Schilz

Hidden - Lead RP - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/May/10

Steve Crowe - Lead - 2010

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2010

chain grab method. maybe 7c+? Felt easier than china crisis, the ashes, man with a gun etc
lx - Lead β - 12/Jul/09 with Matt

Very good. Right method on crux clipping the belay
marky - Lead RP - 21/Jun/09 with Tim Lowe

Burly. Did right hand finish, clipped the belay from the good flat hold.
andy farnell - Lead RP - 20/Jun/09 with Ian Patterson

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/09

the original route climbed up left and then back right to the belay which you could not clip and was hard and scary to grab since we could not clip the bolt below either ! A few new holds and a different finish have now been unearthed . Its good its 7c+ but it aint Dead Calm !!!
Micky J - Jul/08

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, thebigfriendlymoose, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard 8a+0 of 34
8a+0 of 34
easy 8a+0 of 34
hard 8a0 of 34
8a14 of 34
easy 8a10 of 34
hard 7c+9 of 34
7c+0 of 34
easy 7c+1 of 34
3 Stars2 of 24
2 Stars18 of 24
1 Star4 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead50 of 57 (87.7%)
Toproped6 of 57 (10.5%)
Unknown1 of 57 (1.8%)

'Climbed'7 of 57 (12.3%)
clean β3 of 57 (5.3%)
clean RP28 of 57 (49.1%)
dogged19 of 57 (33.3%)