Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 11/Oct 2nd O/S
Lenny 05/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep Lead β
No? Yes! 04/Sep 2nd

Good lead by Matt. Classic jamming that I cannot ( will not ? ) do !

keitht 27/Jun 2nd
Dewi Turton
dewiturton 27/Jun Lead
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun Lead O/S

8 Replacement for Count's Crack due to Ousal birds. An adequate replacement, probably one of the harder leads of the day, it makes up for it's short stature with a testing jamming section. Not sure why it gets HS, it was harder than a lot of the VS's on the challenge (VS in my guide, hence why we chose it).

Paul Deane
DanChad 30/May 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 30/May Lead
Jim Malo 10/May 2nd β
Nick, Mark
morganator 17/Apr Solo
FlavioL1989 06/Apr Solo O/S
Matt Harmon 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
bullybones 18/Oct/14 2nd
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S


ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead


Hidden 18/May/14 2nd rpt
Nick1812P 04/Apr/14 Solo O/S
danm 12/Mar/14 Lead
Becky McGovern
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
deacondeacon 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

In the rain. Started in approach shoes but had to go back down for rock shoes. A particularly miserable day at Stanage.

alexm198 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Lovely jamming, though my hands beg to differ. Definitely VS.

Jing Zhang, Tommy Ogden
fuzzysheep01 01/Oct/13 2nd dog
Harry Bowyer
egg-man 04/Sep/13 2nd
John Pickles
Binder 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rich H
SecretSquirrel 30/Jun/13 Lead
Marq 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Hazel led after JR had fallen off

Brown 19/May/13 Solo
hotfeet 20/Apr/13 Lead
Blue68 20/Apr/13 2nd RP

Tried to lead this but couldn't get the crux, backed off and let Alan lead but still struggled when I was second

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Bry 20/Apr/13 2nd β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Fran S8 20/Apr/13 Lead
Katya 20/Apr/13 2nd
christiaanfhunt ?/Mar/13 Lead β

Hexcentrics worked well as passive in crack

Carl Worrall
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Roonix 21/Oct/12 2nd dog

A grade I've climbed before, but completely messed up how to jam. Very frustrating, just as i got the gist it was over!

Jimbo C 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Packs a punch for it's short length. You really have to get both hands and both feet jammed in at one point.

Chris, Spiros
Diggler 06/Oct/12 2nd

Hahahaah HS my bum VS any day of the week.

stemill 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

Good fun, but definitely not HS!

RichardMc 08/Sep/12 Lead
Dave Langmead
benny_m 02/Sep/12 Lead dog
Richard Hemes
will_benfold 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 01/Sep/12 Lead dog

The most dogged bit of doggy-style dogging that I've ever done. I probably just need more practice at crack climbing, but I found the top half much more difficult than I expected, especially when it turned into laybacking on footjams.

mes32 01/Sep/12 2nd β

Too wide to jam, just laybacked the whole thing, not too bad but no way HS 4b!

JamieSparkes 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rockman 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
timcedwards 13/Jun/12 2nd
Sam Simpson 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S
John Dolden, Tom Doldon
Dom Whillans 12/May/12 2nd
nameless_rob 21/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
flyinfrenchy 29/Oct/11 TR O/S
Paul1 29/Oct/11 Lead

Rested 2se on the same cam. was damp so was hard to keep jams in. Definitely VS. The crack is too thin to get proper jams in for the first bit.

Yanis Nayu 22/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd
MPSBunny 29/Aug/11 Lead dog

If slumping onto gear counts as falls . . . three or four rests on gear before summing up the courage to finish the upper half of the crack. This probably would've been easier if I hadn't just done Count's Buttress which had pretty much demolished me. Thoughtful placement of cams would have helped as well as the crack flared upwards towards the top and I placed my cam in the last good jam. Ran out the end quite a bit as well due to getting really tired.

Mikael 20/Aug/11 Lead
Jim Malo 20/Aug/11 2nd dog

We both fell off.

Jim Malo 20/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Adam1973 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
tomthecoolperson 14/Jul/11 2nd
ben_250 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd
daviesp2 01/Jul/11 2nd dog

HS 4b!

freemanTom 01/Jul/11 Lead dog

Had little fall. Stopped clenching fist jam at 100% and out I popped. HS? No!

Paul Davies
kitkat78 02/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Steve C, Graham P
al123 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice jamming

stuc ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
fatbuoybazza 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

A mini file, so not HS 4b..pretty good wee route

bullwinkle 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
geddicakes 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Katya 04/Sep/10 2nd
Ben Burns
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 25/Aug/10 2nd
James Moyle 25/Jul/10 TR

A nightmare! I started leading this and backed off not feeling very secure with the jamming. I consider myself a solid VS leader and haven't backed off a VS in years. The crack then ate my cam! Grrrr

Mr. K 24/Jul/10 Lead dog
SteveM 24/Jul/10 Lead
kitkat78 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/May/10 Solo rpt

uuum jamming, nice

Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
whiting.jp 17/Apr/10 Lead
colin milton 13/Mar/10 Lead dog
chris orme
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
catblack 16/Oct/09 2nd
SGD 04/Oct/09 -

Dale and I decided to go back to Jamming school on this one and didn't layback it...we found it utterly nails and fell off! Great fun....we can't jam but we are learning (god know why we want to) , there's no other way really.

Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
daveclarke5 12/Jul/09 2nd
peggy_on_the_rocks 05/Jul/09 2nd
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 2nd
Mary Moloney
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dog
BorisVBlade 02/May/09 2nd dog
cem 29/Mar/09 2nd
HansUDes 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S

VS, 4c, self-belay, Stanage Guidebook, no 9, p104

kermit_uk 01/Mar/09 Lead dog
Steve Woolass
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 22/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 TR
Tez29 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Shauna 20/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Definitely fair at VS 4c. You just need to summon a bit of gumption and go for it up the crack. Oh, and being able to jam is pretty crucial :)

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) 30/Jun/08 Lead dog
Rose Williams
Rose Williams 30/Jun/08 2nd
pog100 20/Jun/08 2nd
Reaver2k 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Nothing like a good jamming crack to shatter your ego. Struggled with this unfortunately even though I've been going pretty good lately! Moved up and hands into the crack quite easily, pretty much perfect hand jams, lockers. Then I came to realise there was nothing for my feet except the crack, wearing my excruciatingly painful Galileos! It was literally like sticking my naked feet into a grater, then twisting. Needless to say I became a wimp very quickly and started thugging my way up with my hands, not a good idea! The jams get wider and wider the higher up you get but are generally pretty ok. Unfortunately I kept sticking my feet in and not twisting enough because of the pain meaning they slipped down hurting even more and putting more weight on my arms. After the 3 metre crack, I ended up exhausted doing a shoulder jam whilst I caught my breath. I will be back with some sloppier shoes and a couple of pairs of socks soon! Well protected and a nice line, just short. VS 4c I would say.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mutl3y 17/Jun/07 2nd

Cleanly seconded with lots of beta after falling out on lead. And having tried and failed in the past. Must. Jam. Harder!

Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Twisty 10/Jun/07 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond
Hidden ?/Jun/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Katya 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S

My first jamming ascent :) Easier if you know HOW to jam.

Hidden ??/2007 -
mattwyles1 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 30/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hamster 23/Sep/06 Lead dnf

Fell off the crux move into the big crack. New guide grade may well be fair at VS felt like I'd sandbagged myself!

Ian Thurgood
adam carless 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S

VS 4c in my guide. Easier if you can jam though.

Pali, Stefan
slkulick 09/Sep/06 2nd dog

Expect you forearms to be twice their normal size by the time you finish. adam carless wrote: "Easier if you can jam..." ...bleeding knuckles if you can't.

Hidden 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Carole Baker, Elved Roberts
Nutkey ?/Jul/05 Lead dnf

Couldn't get established in the crack

Simon Cahill 20/May/05 Lead O/S
Jonathon Cahill
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 12/Jun/04 2nd
Cake 12/Jun/04 Lead
Simon Caldwell 17/Apr/04 TR O/S

after failing on lead. At least VS 4c.

edmitchell ??/2004 Lead O/S
kai ren
Hidden 03/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Roget 23/Sep/01 Solo O/S
Blod 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Dave B
Pete Nugent 13/May/01 2nd
Julie Wheatley (CC), Rob Wheatley (CC)
Iain Thow 17/May/99 TR

Both Phil and I failed to lead this, I fell off once on top rope. Both of us were happily leading VS at the time. Only 4b if you've got huge fists?

Phil Goacher, Chris Bryant
babymoac 10/Sep/90 Lead
Wendy Lesley & Deek
Hidden 08/Mar/90 Solo
Andy Say 02/Jul/89 Solo
tapley 22/Jun/88 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
Chris Cracknell,Various
Chris Ellis 07/Apr/84 2nd
Dave Whaley
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Solo
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Solo
mike bridges 08/Oct/77 Lead O/S
Neil Gregory
Hidden 11/Jul/65 TR
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set