The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Good lead by Matt. Classic jamming that I cannot ( will not ? ) do !
|Andrew Abraham||21/Jun||Lead O/S||
8 Replacement for Count's Crack due to Ousal birds. An adequate replacement, probably one of the harder leads of the day, it makes up for it's short stature with a testing jamming section. Not sure why it gets HS, it was harder than a lot of the VS's on the challenge (VS in my guide, hence why we chose it).
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||30/May||Lead|
|Jim Malo||10/May||2nd β||
|Matt Harmon||31/Oct/14||Lead O/S||
In the rain. Started in approach shoes but had to go back down for rock shoes. A particularly miserable day at Stanage.
Lovely jamming, though my hands beg to differ. Definitely VS.
Jing Zhang, Tommy Ogden
Hazel led after JR had fallen off
Tried to lead this but couldn't get the crux, backed off and let Alan lead but still struggled when I was second
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||20/Apr/13||Lead rpt|
Hexcentrics worked well as passive in crack
A grade I've climbed before, but completely messed up how to jam. Very frustrating, just as i got the gist it was over!
|Jimbo C||07/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Packs a punch for it's short length. You really have to get both hands and both feet jammed in at one point.
Hahahaah HS my bum VS any day of the week.
Good fun, but definitely not HS!
The most dogged bit of doggy-style dogging that I've ever done. I probably just need more practice at crack climbing, but I found the top half much more difficult than I expected, especially when it turned into laybacking on footjams.
Too wide to jam, just laybacked the whole thing, not too bad but no way HS 4b!
|Sam Simpson||10/Jun/12||Solo O/S||
John Dolden, Tom Doldon
Rested 2se on the same cam. was damp so was hard to keep jams in. Definitely VS. The crack is too thin to get proper jams in for the first bit.
|Yanis Nayu||22/Sep/11||Lead dnf||
If slumping onto gear counts as falls . . . three or four rests on gear before summing up the courage to finish the upper half of the crack. This probably would've been easier if I hadn't just done Count's Buttress which had pretty much demolished me. Thoughtful placement of cams would have helped as well as the crack flared upwards towards the top and I placed my cam in the last good jam. Ran out the end quite a bit as well due to getting really tired.
|Jim Malo||20/Aug/11||2nd dog||
We both fell off.
|Jim Malo||20/Aug/11||Lead dnf|
Had little fall. Stopped clenching fist jam at 100% and out I popped. HS? No!
Steve C, Graham P
A mini file, so not HS 4b..pretty good wee route
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||04/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
A nightmare! I started leading this and backed off not feeling very secure with the jamming. I consider myself a solid VS leader and haven't backed off a VS in years. The crack then ate my cam! Grrrr
|Mr. K||24/Jul/10||Lead dog|
|Graeme Hammond||23/May/10||Solo rpt||
uuum jamming, nice
|colin milton||13/Mar/10||Lead dog||
Dale and I decided to go back to Jamming school on this one and didn't layback it...we found it utterly nails and fell off! Great fun....we can't jam but we are learning (god know why we want to) , there's no other way really.
VS, 4c, self-belay, Stanage Guidebook, no 9, p104
|Jim Slater||22/Nov/08||2nd O/S|
|victim of mathematics||07/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Definitely fair at VS 4c. You just need to summon a bit of gumption and go for it up the crack. Oh, and being able to jam is pretty crucial :)
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||30/Jun/08||Lead dog||
Nothing like a good jamming crack to shatter your ego. Struggled with this unfortunately even though I've been going pretty good lately! Moved up and hands into the crack quite easily, pretty much perfect hand jams, lockers. Then I came to realise there was nothing for my feet except the crack, wearing my excruciatingly painful Galileos! It was literally like sticking my naked feet into a grater, then twisting. Needless to say I became a wimp very quickly and started thugging my way up with my hands, not a good idea! The jams get wider and wider the higher up you get but are generally pretty ok. Unfortunately I kept sticking my feet in and not twisting enough because of the pain meaning they slipped down hurting even more and putting more weight on my arms. After the 3 metre crack, I ended up exhausted doing a shoulder jam whilst I caught my breath. I will be back with some sloppier shoes and a couple of pairs of socks soon! Well protected and a nice line, just short. VS 4c I would say.
Cleanly seconded with lots of beta after falling out on lead. And having tried and failed in the past. Must. Jam. Harder!
|Graeme Hammond||10/Jun/07||2nd O/S|
My first jamming ascent :) Easier if you know HOW to jam.
Fell off the crux move into the big crack. New guide grade may well be fair at VS felt like I'd sandbagged myself!
|adam carless||09/Sep/06||Lead O/S||
VS 4c in my guide. Easier if you can jam though.
Expect you forearms to be twice their normal size by the time you finish. adam carless wrote: "Easier if you can jam..." ...bleeding knuckles if you can't.
Carole Baker, Elved Roberts
Couldn't get established in the crack
|Simon Cahill||20/May/05||Lead O/S||
|Tobias at Home||??/2005||-|
|Simon Caldwell||17/Apr/04||TR O/S||
after failing on lead. At least VS 4c.
Julie Wheatley (CC), Rob Wheatley (CC)
Both Phil and I failed to lead this, I fell off once on top rope. Both of us were happily leading VS at the time. Only 4b if you've got huge fists?
Phil Goacher, Chris Bryant
Wendy Lesley & Deek
|mike bridges||08/Oct/77||Lead O/S||