Fern Groove** E2 5c
[Ben, finding out Fern Groove's not 'quite' that straight forward., 3 kb]16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes! © ROCKFAX

FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: Ben, finding out Fern Groove's not 'quite' that straight forward. © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 104 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

theomoore - Lead G/U - 16/May/15 with Roisin

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2015

Fell off crux but then lowered and repeated it as clean ascent. A really interesting set of moves to get established in the groove and then stays hard for longer than you think after that. Hard for E2 5c!
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/14 with Ben Cole

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Calum harvey

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/14

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Lena, Banksy

lena.drapella - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/14 with Banksy, dannyboy

It's full on after the traverse
Albachoss - Lead dog - 31/Aug/14 with lena, Dan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/14

Hidden - TR - 15/Jul/14

soph - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Andy Reeve

Dan Arkle - 2014

EmileCilliers - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13

Mate reckons I've climbed this before but I don't remember. Went fine, great route.
deacondeacon - Lead - 03/Mar/13

Fell once didnt se the good foot to the side of the arete
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with H washbrook

Hidden - 2013

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Andrew Deckon

Coel Hellier - Lead dog - 15/Jul/12

The crack is very flared
Tom Doldon - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/12 with John Doldon

tom.e - Lead - 20/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/12

Several rests before overcoming the layback.
Palindrome - 2nd - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

mark20 - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Mark R

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11 with Coatesy

dav - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Gill B

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 10/May/11 with John Bramwell

quality but hard crux sequence
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Richard Williams

Desperate! Very nearly fell off.
highlux - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

uphillnow - 2011

mwatson - 2011

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/10 with joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew

Did crux, got to first decent hold in the crack, got a nut in which was ok but then my head went, not enough recent mileage and I got disco leg in a major way. Faffed an unnecessary cam in just above the nut but then that blocked my hold so I couldnt do anything other than grab it as my other hand pumped out. Stupidity. Annoying as it was only about HVS from then onwards! :oS Good route. Didnt think the crux was too bad.
Si dH - Lead dog - 16/Oct/10 with Neil Furniss

Nails! Had to have a bunch of goes to work out the sequence, chuffed to get it in the end.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 02/Oct/10 with Mike

Lev - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10

Fell to the fern ledge a few times. claiming it as worked
geddicakes - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Paul Latham

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/10

Coel Hellier - Lead dog - May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

Boy - Sep/09 with Nige Kershaw

Alex@home - 2nd O/S - Sep/09 with The Doctor

Nicos - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with james tunbull

Really technical, and pumpy. Too much so for me!
bullwinkle - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/09

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/09

pigeonslipper - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08

felt more like an e3 than a e2 but really good climbing never the less.
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08 with tall tom

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Feb/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

craig d - 2008

Couldn't get the thought of the ledge out of my mind so slumped onto gear and went up the VS to the left instead.
alaan - Lead dnf - 04/Nov/07 with Grant

Pumped out finding gear after making the move out of the break.
nacnud - Lead dog - 20/Oct/07

JPGR - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with Daniel

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/07 with jon redshaw

ok it wasnt actually an onsight, but the first time up i had no chalk and the holds are slopey. got some chalk and found it safe and interesting 5c
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - Lead - Dec/05

goi.ashmore - Solo RP - 28/Aug/05 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

chris sm - 2nd - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/04

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Andrew Eakins

Hidden - Lead RP - 2004

sadams - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/03 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/03

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/02 with Viv

Hidden - 2002

Ropeboy - Lead - 10/Jun/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Adrian

dan gibson - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

NeilGriffiths - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99 with Simon Frost

frost - 2nd - Jun/99 with N Griffiths

stp - Lead - 06/Apr/98

ChrisJD - Lead - 04/Oct/97 with AlB

rob.grafton - 2nd - 05/May/96 with Paul McCann, Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/94 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/May/94 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/94

Rich Kirby - Lead - 10/Oct/93

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/93

John Marsland - TR - 13/Mar/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/91 with jim, jon

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/89 with Dad

Hidden - Lead - 29/Dec/88

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/85

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 21/Jul/83 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/81

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
truckmonkey, Oddjob, rurp, Owen W-G, puppythedog, stevorobs3, riddle, ianjfsutcliffe, andymoin, petellis

Total votes cast 124
hard E30 of 44
E30 of 44
easy E312 of 44
hard E213 of 44
E216 of 44
easy E20 of 44
hard E13 of 44
E10 of 44
easy E10 of 44
hard 6a0 of 44
6a2 of 44
easy 6a6 of 44
hard 5c14 of 44
5c22 of 44
easy 5c0 of 44
hard 5b0 of 44
5b0 of 44
easy 5b0 of 44
3 Stars3 of 36
2 Stars31 of 36
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP