Rockfax Description
A more fitting but more harrowing finish. Teeter warily up the scoop in the steepening wall to a reachy rounded exit miles above your gear. The edge is a surprising distance back! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the top break, either trend left into a vague groove and finish directly and steeply at the highest point of the slab. Or escape rightwards, see Wall End Slab Direct Original finish.

FA. Chris Craggs 1983

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

CaelanB 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 05/Aug Lead O/S

Caelan led and abbed to get the gear out while I did my best not to look at any of the moves! The weird undercut mantle move halfway up is horrendous, bloody hard the way I did it anyway. The route just got plain scary after that as I had used the cam I needed in the high pocket lower down. Miles out from my gear standing on a shit foothold literally inching my fingers up the finishing slopers to find a decent hold like some kind of detached zombie hand. Scary as f***!

with Caelan
Hidden 16/May 2nd dog
thomaspomfrett 04/Jan 2nd O/S
with Pat Brien
Ed 04/Jan 2nd
Duncan Campbell 10/Oct/14 2nd

Finished direct up the scoop

with Bubbles
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Gudge 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Finished up groove - tougher than Super Duper Direct.

with Steve Collings
Nick1812P 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

fairly bold, but not very hard.

with Calum harvey
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd dog
kenneM 13/Jun/14 Lead

Practised on TR, clean no falls, then lead with gear placed on lead. Great route and a great 'move'.

with Dan loveday
Hidden 21/May/14 -
ashtond6 31/Mar/14 Lead dnf

bad day really! felt greasy, been climbing v well with injury and dnfed basically every route today!

theomoore 10/Mar/14 2nd
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
kyaizawa 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Definitely went for a left facing high step... Wicked slab climbing throughout, without ever being too hard; went for the arete finish.

with Dave Headley, Tom McCabe, Becky Lodge
chrishedgehog 08/Sep/13 2nd RP
with S. Hunt
Hidden 07/Sep/13 TR O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd O/S
ripper 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S

more of a right-facing high step and rockover than mantle. I managed two ok-ish cams but had nothing to fit the high pocket so took the original E2 finish not the E3 direct.

Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd rpt
gavinpeach 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Nice route with some bold climbing, especially at the top.

deacondeacon 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

E3 finish up the scoop/ slab.

rurp 25/Jun/13 TR O/S

Doable but scary on lead

Zoomer 06/Jun/13 TR O/S

Awkward finish rather than technically hard.

with A Student
DaveInPortwood 31/May/13 TR
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd
Jake Young 31/May/13 Lead β
with Callum
a13x 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Mason, John Phethean
samt ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Nov/12 2nd rpt
James Oswald 10/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Did the 5c finish after colin lead the original. Ace moves but a long way above where the gear would be

with Colin Angus
rob.grafton 04/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim, Phil Evans
jwpil 17/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
derekb 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Leon
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Chris Craggs 20/Aug/12 TR

Delicate, especially at the top!!

with Steve Cunnington
Ed morris 18/Jun/12 TR O/S
mark20 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Nov/11 Solo dnf
stefano_nunes ?/Nov/11 2nd
akhughes 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
SallyMay ?/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Very nice climb

Hidden 23/Sep/11 TR
Alex Winter 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Took a while. Climbs like three cool slab problems stacked on top of each other.

with Doug, W. Morgan
Douglas 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Will Morgan, Alex Winter
Hidden 16/Aug/11 TR
Hidden 01/Aug/11 TR
Tony Ryland 01/Aug/11 TR
redjerry ?/Jul/11 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead β
highlux 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A real stretch at the top...

with Chris Ellis
Chris Ellis 05/Mar/11 2nd dog
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Matt Smith
quiffhanger 12/Feb/11 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
harvie 16/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
batterj2 10/Oct/10 TR dog
Birdo 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
Hardonicus 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Seconded this after Luke lead the non direct. Could potentially lead this.

with Luke Donaldson
Alasdair88 12/Sep/10 TR RP

The 'practice' was taking a whipper from the top to the rocks on the side whilst upside down. Not recommended.

Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR O/S
Lev 12/Sep/10 TR rpt
stephenhartley 23/Aug/10 Lead β
with Aiden
JamieSparkes 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
llamaglama 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Jam
Calder 24/Jul/10 2nd
Garron 17/Jul/10 TR O/S
theotherpetehill 11/Jul/10 2nd
jacobjacob 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
theo.mooney ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mary Moloney
rikbattye 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd O/S
kitkat78 18/May/10 2nd β
with Phil R, Graham P
phja 21/Apr/10 TR O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Chief Wench 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Remus
PeteH 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Did the full direct finish. Not as hard, or as unprotected, as I thought it'd be...

NaomiHart 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Noel Peatfield, Peter Hart
keith leonard ??/2010 2nd
RossG ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
BeccaSnowden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 13/Oct/09 TR
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 13/Oct/09 TR
sparkass 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Ally Baba 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

great route

with Boo Boo
Pete Graham 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Direct finish

Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Mr Sparkle 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Alex@home ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S

finished up this instead of following the doctor round the corner on the e2. pretty simple on a top rope

with The Doctor
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Solo rpt
Different Steve 25/Jul/09 TR O/S
with Guy Reid
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 Lead

scary top out.

with Mary Moloney
Joe Costello ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
ian storey ?/Jun/09 Lead β

first e3

with tez29
mattwyles1 ?/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Tez29 30/May/09 2nd O/S
with Ian
Lewis Andrew 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with Fred Prall
bigphil 10/May/09 Solo

Its been upgraded since I last did it. Was E2 5c

Dan 85 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Felt a long way from gear on last move, which I didn't have 100% faith in. Oh and left-facing

with Lewi
Lewis Andrew 29/Apr/09 2nd O/S

great route. wish i'd gone for solo.

with Dan
Hidden 18/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 31/Jan/09 Solo rpt

In mistake for the VS, and only the E2 version

with Hull contingent
Hidden 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
bridget143 06/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Jack Symmons
Jack Symmons ?/Dec/08 Lead
with Bridget
lowersharpnose 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Did the E2 5b version. Very enjoyable, difficulty and protection exactly as one would expect.

with postmanpat
Hidden 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
PenJD 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S

E2 finish.

with Simon Shaw
Misha 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Gear is a good and not too far away for the E2 crux and possibly ok but further away for the E3 crux (by that stage the E2 gear is redundant).

Phil Jennings 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Outdoor ED
LankyPaddy 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Direct Finish. New pants please!

SKippy5 15/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 24/May/08 TR
Hidden 04/May/08 TR
gazfellows 21/Apr/08 2nd
andy gravestock 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S

fantastic route should really be soloed as the gear is poor.

with tall tom
Ed Booth 20/Feb/08 Solo O/S

May have finished further right than your suposed to but guide says its easy and you have already done the crux. NIce little route.

stuckonarock 17/Feb/08 2nd β
with Matthew
Luke Brooks 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
ChalkBall 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S

I'll have to come back and lead this some day - lovely route, although the guidebooks extra beta proved wrong for both me and the leader!

Ben1983 16/Feb/08 Lead rpt

properly this time!

jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Chris Craggs ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
bullybones ??/2008 -
chiverstom 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Ivo
alaan 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Sloped off right for the E2. Not a brave day.

with Grant
petellis 04/Nov/07 2nd
with Alaan
Mr Powly 30/Oct/07 Lead β

E2 version

with Sam Bennet
MYSSAK 28/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Lea
Hidden 30/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 04/Aug/07 Lead β

Attempted but ran off to the arete (E2 5b) on first attempt. Watched George second up the direct finish then went back and lead it properly.

with George and Nick Roberts
zcapxa5 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Cattermole
Rjukan 04/May/07 Lead O/S

E2 version

with Pete
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Daniel
dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with simon chevis
Col Allott 18/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 TR
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Wall
Andrew Barker ??/2007 Lead β
with Matt Booth
dicky79 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Pete
Oli 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Killey
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Top section was well scary, particularly as I'd already used the only cam I had that'd fit in the top pocket.

with Jon Box
Hidden 04/Aug/06 2nd RP
Ram MkiV 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Enjoyed the lower section of this but found the finish ridiculasly contrived so sacked it and finished up right - E2 version.

with Alex
Hidden 02/Jun/06 TR
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

too windy for the E3, slunk off like the wimp I am.

david morse ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with chris todd
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
cat22 ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Mike
loonyclimber ?/Sep/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Coel Hellier ??/2005 Lead

E2 finish

Hidden ??/2005 -
mikeski ??/2005 -
reg_measures 10/Oct/04 2nd O/S
with Torran Elson
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 07/Dec/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Lucy Rawsthorne
Hidden 19/Oct/02 Lead
Chris Ellis 23/Jun/02 2nd
with Nige Shaw
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 28/Aug/01 TR
Hidden 05/Aug/01 TR
Hidden 05/Aug/01 2nd
Pete Nugent 13/May/01 TR
with Julie Wheatley (CC), Rob Wheatley (CC)
Ropeboy 10/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
dan gibson ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Iain Thow 17/May/99 TR
with Phil Goacher, Chris Bryant
cragspud ?/Sep/98 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Aug/98 Lead
CrashMat Rob 20/Sep/97 TR
with Paul Kerr
bigphil ??/1997 Solo
with Ben Tetler
andy_pemberton 13/Jul/96 -
Trobbo 03/Sep/95 2nd
with john blower
WB ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Stu
Hidden 04/May/95 TR
nai ??/1995 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/94 2nd
ste_d 17/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 28/May/94 TR O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 -
with Simon Frost
Hidden 16/Oct/93 TR O/S
Chris Reid 16/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
John Marsland 29/Aug/92 2nd
with Norman
K1 ?/Jun/92 Lead
with Kevin Davey
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/92 TR
Jon Read ??/1992 Solo O/S
with Zippy
Roget 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
leathers ??/1991 -
Mal Grey ??/1991 Lead O/S

Wimping out to the Right is E2 version. So I did that!

Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jul/89 Solo
phardman 15/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Hidden 01/Jun/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Solo O/S
shark ??/1988 Lead

Year a guess but remember finding it sketchy.

with John Myers
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/86 Lead
John Marsland 24/May/86 Lead

given E2 at the time

sadams 03/May/86 Solo
with Mark Bonham
Hammy 26/Apr/86 2nd
with Pat McVey, Penny Excel
Hidden 02/Jul/85 Solo
mike bridges 08/Jun/85 TR O/S
with Pat Meeds
John Marsland 15/Jul/84 TR

bottom half only

Hidden 19/May/84 Solo
Michael Hood 14/Apr/84 Lead

Another great day after leading 6 HVS's. Had previously top roped the original version with a young J Moffatt in 1980 (post Strawberries).

stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
mark-abz 16/Sep/82 TR
with Andy W
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/82 TR
with Andy Bond
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/81 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
max_dickens, Oddjob, robw007, Graham Booth, widdlestickmcpoos, puppythedog, Dean177, Hidden, Hidden, virgil, Will_Maxwell, ebf, Julia Chatterton, Hidden, Gambit
High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 48
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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