Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Death and Night and Blood* E1 5b

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[The name for this route is very off-putting!, 3 kb]18m. Start as for the last route, but step right onto the exposed and delicate arete. The final precarious section is often harrowing, especially for the short. Not too well protected. © ROCKFAX
FA. Gary Gibson 1978 14/Jun/1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: The name for this route is very off-putting! © Oceanwall
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 262 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

kenneM - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

One tricky move but very bold.
gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/14 with Scott

Way too easy to place a runner then do the move!!
fifth - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Gav

One tricky stretch up the final arÍte
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 30/Jul/14 with Graham Parkes

MoWalker3 - TR - 29/Jun/14

A midge infested stanage. Didn't earn the proper tick as placed a high runner for the crux. The moves are not difficult but I couldn't commit to the crux with the nearest runner way below my feet.
gavinpeach - Lead - 24/Jun/14 with Hellen

helin - 2nd - 24/Jun/14 with gavin

john max - 2nd - 17/Jun/14 with Jen Maxfield

Side runners to make a safe hvs5b!
rurp - 20/May/14 with bill farmer

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Alex Hallam

There are scarier routes, though its pretty scary, I could hear Dan breathing...
Alex Hallam - 2nd O/S - 15/May/14 with Dan Barbour

a13x - Lead rpt - 03/May/14 with Phil Jarvis

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

alp79 - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/14 with Jonny Ashton

ashtond6 - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/14

snapperdan - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Stuart Bennett

stub1990 - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14 with Adam Gregg

vanderz - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Graham Plant

Hardcore Pat - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/14 with Dr Julie

Matthew Ferrier - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Micki

Was missing about 2cm to get a good grip on the top break. Then took a while to commit to slabbing up the crux.
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with matt

As per guidebook description: 'harrowing for the short'.
LJC - Lead - 16/Nov/13 with Theo

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Nov/13

Today I got the brush off from a stunner of a girl. But I dont care, the 20 foot whipper I took off this whilst getting beknighted and having to escape off left has the word epic written all over it. What a day.
dr_botnik - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/13 with scotth, Jack D

thetradlad - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Harry Yarrow

egg-man - TR - 04/Sep/13 with John Pickles

mat cooper - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

First E1. Wish i was an inch or two taller for the crux!
Clemmo - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Matt Kempson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/13

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Callum

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/13

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Emma, Ben, Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

a13x - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Michael Mason, John Phethean

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Mar/13

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

alp79 - 2nd - 02/Mar/13 with Jonny Ashton

Hidden - 2013

greglad - 2013

Massively underated. Really cool route
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/12 with Colin Angus

Nice climbing. Only just tall enough to reach past the really tricky move!
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/12 with James Oswald

stemill - 2nd - 06/Oct/12 with Mark

rob.grafton - 2nd - 04/Oct/12 with Jim, Phil Evans

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/12

Hard move for the vertically challenged!
jshields - Lead - 16/Sep/12 with Ed James

derekb - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Leon

leon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Derek

Didn't commit to the top then realised I should have when my second sailed up it!
Steve Perry - Lead - 04/Sep/12 with Katie Long

etrillaud - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12

Gudge - 2nd O/S - Jul/12 with Andrew Deacon

Spongeclimber - 2nd O/S - Jul/12 with adi bryant

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Tim Selvage

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 19/Jun/12 with Rob Middleton, Sam Stringer

tigertim - Lead - 19/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with deacon, duncan, ed morris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with haydn

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Sarah

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Charles Moreton

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 01/Apr/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/12

Excellent climbing. At my height (6' 1") both moves were 5a. The nut in the crack below is a bomber.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Mike Tempest

RyanC - 2nd - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/12

Reedymc - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Nick Mitchell, Tony Holdsworth

Soft touch but nice climbing.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Tom Reed, Nick Mitchell

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11

Tobias at Home - 15/Oct/11 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Tobs

Damp
JRae - Lead - 19/Sep/11 with A Saul

Superb arete moves, deserves more than one star.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11

Jeromecooper - Lead - 03/Sep/11

Bit reachy if you're 5'4'', just enough of a smear for right foot to reach the break but it's a bit go-ey! Must be soft touch surely if you can reach that top break?!
Batt - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with James Hoyes

David Kay - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Mynydd C.C.

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Rachel B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

very reach dependent, at least a grade harder for those below 5'10"
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with allyrocke, Liam Ingram

Had to jump through the crux and I am 5ft 10.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Jamie Sparkes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/11

geddicakes - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Mike Hayes

wolverine - 11/Jun/11

Repeat from years ago
kermit_uk - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with Ian, Steve Woolass

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/11

mark20 - 2nd rpt - 08/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

Put a cheeky side runner in. Nadeem would have been sad
peterstanworth - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

brynmays - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

kyebrooks - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with bryn mays

used side runner. Much more difficult for shorties
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with steve tree

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11 with Jamie Townsend, Euan McKendrick

RossT - 2nd - 12/Apr/11 with Andrew Edwards

Glanced at the guidebook and set off on what I thought was a HS arete... Exciting times!
jacobjacob - Solo O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/11

cem - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Pete Horn

Maxim2023 - Lead - Mar/11 with Matt Smith

alaan - Solo - 26/Feb/11

thekendo - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/11 with andy peak 1

David Smith - 2011

furry - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/10 with LMC

Hidden - 13/Oct/10

Adam Potter - 2nd - 10/Oct/10

Got scared and used a pre-clipped runner (above the hard bit) placed from the next route. Did the moves easily anyway silly me... HVS with my 'siderunner'?? I'm 5'2 and glad - being able to reach the break from the ledge would just take the whole point out of the route! Very worth doing **
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Lisaaargh

seconded this and enjoyed the moves after a few goes. Just not tall enough for the final move, all I could see was blank wall so nipped round to the left and finished in the corner.
dazwan - 2nd dnf - 26/Sep/10 with Stew B

Excellent climbing in a splendid position but quite scary and run out from the top of the hollow flake. More serious than Tower Face Direct which I led earlier in the day.
ebf - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Darren Wan

edmitchell - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with adam booth

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ed Mitchell

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Alistair Ross

max_chan - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Phil PCC, Steve Carty

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10

I would be terrified not having a 6' reach on this one... Great lower moves, but the blank upper arete (right side, yes?) is terrifying! Take large cams for that top break!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Mark Rankine

stephenhartley - 2nd - 23/Aug/10 with Aiden

that move is a lot easier on second ;-)
adam carless - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Claire's mate Chris

Diggler - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with andyob, Calder

Calder - 2nd - 24/Jul/10 with Andy OB, Mark

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/10

bold move in the final section!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Guy VG

on billys gear, placed the 'siderunner' at HVS. Without this it makes the route contrived when the moves are brilliant.
GuyVG - Lead β - 19/Jun/10

I lke this sort of climbing- just enough gear,technical arete.
adi bryant - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Jake

Gav A - Lead β - 07/May/10 with Tom Harvey

craig naylor - Lead - 28/Apr/10

nice moves all the way, thought probably a harrowing if your short to reach the break below the top, thankfully I'm not :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Paul Dewey

jubolo - 2nd - 16/Apr/10 with JIm

Mested about on the crux for a long time! easy once done!
MorganPreece - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Jessy and Solo

A very nice and fairly straightforward climb with a friendly jamming start and pretty positive arete with good holds. Reasonable gear throughout, except the crux, and rests all the way up. Deserves more stars!
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Paul Taylor

heart stopping stuff before final break, which isn't verry good
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with sarah

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Matt Tomlinson, Kelly

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Chris Vanderz

Maxim2023 - 2nd - Apr/10 with Morgan Preece

tom.e - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/10 with Malcolm

Unexpectedly good and independent climbing. Really enjoyable!
PeteH - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Noel Peatfield, Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Noel Peatfield, Peter Hart

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/10

First E1 of trip!
Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/10 with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/10

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 07/Mar/10

rob1 - Lead dog - 2010 with Alex Wellings

Seymore Butt - 2010

keith leonard - 2010

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

really enjoyed this climb, my first on sight lead. Crux a little scary but not too bad.
frume - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09 with Rory Juss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/09

Dom Whillans - 20/Sep/09 with a.crook

A Crook - TR - 20/Sep/09 with Dom Stockton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09

hard top move
willoates - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Pete Morgan

Harald - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/09 with Alan Royle

michaelja - 2nd - Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 2009 with Remus Knowles

default_slipper - 14/Dec/08 with will

shameful top roping. was proper wet though. i will do it properly at some point.
w.pettet-smith - TR - Dec/08 with shai the nutter

Daniel Bergo - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08

Nowhere near as reachy as some descriptions suggest, just requires a cool head for a couple of moves on a rounded arete with distant and not perfect gear.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Cragdog Al

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Matt Grodon

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/08

7om - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Jonny Argue

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Ray

save your power for the top (cheated on crux)
rayash - Lead dog - 19/Jun/08 with shauna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

Eccentric - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

jimsrankin - Lead O/S - May/08 with Adrian

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2008 with dave

bullybones - 2008

nacnud - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/07 with Dave Binney

The hand pull on the round arret with the polished smear for the foot well above the last gear seemed a bit much for E1. That's what you get for being 5'7" I suppose.
UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with S

Mr Tickle - Lead - 29/Aug/07

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with adam carless

Squirrel lead this in fine style, a good E1 tick!
adam carless - 2nd rpt - 04/Aug/07 with SecretSquirrel

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Steve Woolass

easier as i'm tall! Such a nice route easy 2 stars! Just scary enough, especially as the rock 2 i needed for the top of the crack i placed lower down!
kermit - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Steve

Dale - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with johny

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 23/May/07

SimonBrown - 2nd dog - May/07 with Al Dossiter

Coel Hellier - Lead - 28/Apr/07

adam carless - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/07 with Hugh

was wet as you like, scared myself on the polished crux. didn't wish to lob. bold crux for an E1 wish to try again.
sasmojo - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/07 with Taz

Hidden - 2007

Very height-dependent. At 5ft11 can just get the fingertips of one hand on the good hold at the crux while stood on the ledge below, but still need to use my feet and other hand quite a bit - I rekcon its about 5a like that, and worth E1 for the run-out, which is bigger than I'd remembered. For the short it mkust be significantly harder again I think, and in fact my second took 2 goes (hes shorter than me). But for anyone much taller than me (maybe 6ft1 or more) andable to get two hadns to the good hold from the ledge, it cant be more than 4c, and I expect the crux is then slightly lower down and the route not really E1. I reckon this is worth at least 2 stars as well, if not 3.
Si dH - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/06 with Tom Lambert

dpurf - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/06 with Patrick

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Jon Box

GeckoGeek - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06 with Arin

arin78 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06 with Mark

eldre070 - TR O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Laura Eldred

Mutl3y - 2nd - 20/Jul/06 with Fletch

Easy if you are tall
Gambit - Lead O/S - 11/May/06 with Tim

Paz - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with LJ, CC

Lev - 2nd β - 16/Apr/06 with Paz

dan gibson - 2nd - 12/Apr/06 with AJ, helen gibson

Skell - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/06 with Rich Sharpe

Hidden - 2006

Easy E1, which I climbed having half intended to go up wall end crack direct. Kristy nearly managed to trip me up off the top of the crag afterwards which proved scarier than the climb itself.
EG - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/05 with Kristy

Looked more fun than Wall End Flake Crack.
Tobias at Home - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/05 with SteveM

SteveM - Lead - 29/Oct/05 with Tobs

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/05 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/05

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/05 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/05

Did the direct start (5c) to this
slacky - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/05 with James Allsopp

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/05 with steve burdett

first E1!!!
maybe_si - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/05

Sandbagged myself on this one, thought it was the HVS next door (didn't read the guidebook carefully enough). Nice line, but the crux moves feel like they are escapable by stepping round the corner. And it's a long stretch for the good holds. Month is a guess, early this year
adam carless - Lead O/S - Mar/05 with Pali

nai - Lead - 2005

chris sm - Lead O/S - 2005 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

One slip
Stig - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/04 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

cem - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Rod Strachan

Hidden - Lead - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/04

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Andy

ChrisJD - Lead - 20/May/04 with Clare

markysums - Lead - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/02

Not sure about date, but remember it was windy
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Aug/02

Jon Greengrass - 2nd O/S - 2002 with Fiend

Hidden - 2002

BruceW - Lead O/S - 2001

Ropeboy - Lead - 10/Jun/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/98

ChrisJD - 2nd - 04/Oct/97 with AlB

Mark Riley - 2nd - 1997 with Richard Ibberson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

NeilGriffiths - Lead O/S - 1995 with Paul

NeilGriffiths - 1995 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/94

Hidden - 03/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/93

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 21/Aug/93 with Malcolm Macpherson

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/93

John Marsland - 2nd - 29/Aug/92 with Dave Soles

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/91

Neil R - Lead - 24/Jul/90 with Richard W

Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 1990

Michael Hood - Lead - 16/Aug/87

Dave Musgrove - 29/Nov/86 with Kim Greenald

malc - 2nd - 02/Oct/85 with Paul S

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/84

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/83

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Theeni, Hidden, robw007, humptydumpty, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, speekingleesh, Hidden, petellis, Pythonist

Voting
Total votes cast 148
hard E20 of 51
E20 of 51
easy E21 of 51
hard E14 of 51
E140 of 51
easy E14 of 51
hard HVS2 of 51
HVS0 of 51
easy HVS0 of 51
hard 5c0 of 50
5c0 of 50
easy 5c1 of 50
hard 5b3 of 50
5b31 of 50
easy 5b13 of 50
hard 5a2 of 50
5a0 of 50
easy 5a0 of 50
3 Stars4 of 47
2 Stars20 of 47
1 Star23 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 262 (2.3%)
Lead147 of 262 (56.1%)
Followed82 of 262 (31.3%)
Toproped5 of 262 (1.9%)
Unknown22 of 262 (8.4%)

'Climbed'96 of 262 (36.6%)
clean O/S132 of 262 (50.4%)
clean β4 of 262 (1.5%)
clean rpt15 of 262 (5.7%)
clean RP2 of 262 (0.8%)
dogged6 of 262 (2.3%)
dnf7 of 262 (2.7%)