Rockfax Description
Start as for the last route, but step right and access the arete from the ramp. The final precarious section is reachy and harrowing, especially for the short. Wires in the creaky flake really shouldn't be relied upon. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978 14/Jun/1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

ChrisBrooke 01/Nov 2nd

Reachy and bold at the top. A good lead from Duncan.

with Duncan Bell
Martin Bagshaw 03/Oct Lead O/S

Tom top roped the face to the right

with Martin Weißmann, Tom Hudson
The Reaper 26/Sep Lead O/S
with frank mckenna
Paul Eckton 17/Sep Lead O/S
with steve read
Col Kingshott 05/Sep 2nd
jfms 29/Aug 2nd O/S

Charlie's lead. Gear not great (C. used a side runner at some point.) Final move is tricky: get out on the right wall and use the arete for the left hand.

Hidden 12/Aug TR
dynodean 25/Jul 2nd β
with Luke
nick ferro 27/Jun Lead O/S
C May 27/Jun 2nd
with Nick
sopaz 13/May 2nd
marconi 13/May Lead O/S
with Chris
spenser 10/May Lead dnf

Bailed off onto the severe to the left at the crux as I wasn't feeling the runout and I was concerned I may get blown off by the wind!

with Jo Trendell
Hidden 10/May 2nd dnf
lovin it 23/Apr 2nd O/S

Loved it

oread 19/Apr Lead O/S

Super scary, most scared to date!

Hidden 06/Apr Lead
Andy Peak 1 05/Apr Lead rpt

Nice route, had to clamp the aret and a crimp to do the move in the sweaty heat

with phill ukc
the power 05/Apr Lead dnf

Too sweaty a day for me

with Andy
madasten 12/Oct/14 2nd

Felt v easy for the grade (no more than HVS) although I'm 6'2" and was only seconding.

with Gaz
jon22 05/Oct/14 Lead
with Neil Griffith
Oddjob 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Mario Grabinski 21/Sep/14 Solo
Nick1812P 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/14 2nd O/S
robblowen 31/Aug/14 2nd β
with Jonny
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
kenneM 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 20/Aug/14 2nd rpt

One tricky move but very bold.

with Scott
fifth 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Way too easy to place a runner then do the move!!

with Gav
Chris Craggs 30/Jul/14 2nd

One tricky stretch up the final aręte

with Graham Parkes
MoWalker3 29/Jun/14 TR
gavinpeach 24/Jun/14 Lead

A midge infested stanage. Didn't earn the proper tick as placed a high runner for the crux. The moves are not difficult but I couldn't commit to the crux with the nearest runner way below my feet.

with Hellen
helin 24/Jun/14 2nd
with gavin
john max 17/Jun/14 2nd
with Jen Maxfield
rurp 20/May/14 -

Side runners to make a safe hvs5b!

with bill farmer
dannyboy83 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 15/May/14 2nd O/S

There are scarier routes, though its pretty scary, I could hear Dan breathing...

a13x 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Phil Jarvis
WillDoyle 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
alp79 31/Mar/14 2nd rpt
ashtond6 31/Mar/14 Lead rpt
snapperdan 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Adamski1986 30/Mar/14 2nd
stub1990 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Adam Gregg
vanderz 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 01/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Dr Julie
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 23/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Micki
MSchobitz 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Was missing about 2cm to get a good grip on the top break. Then took a while to commit to slabbing up the crux.

LJC 16/Nov/13 Lead

As per guidebook description: 'harrowing for the short'.

with Theo
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd
dr_botnik 30/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Today I got the brush off from a stunner of a girl. But I dont care, the 20 foot whipper I took off this whilst getting beknighted and having to escape off left has the word epic written all over it. What a day.

Jackwd 30/Sep/13 2nd
thetradlad 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
egg-man 04/Sep/13 TR
with John Pickles
mat cooper 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
DavidPC 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First E1. Wish i was an inch or two taller for the crux!

with Matt Kempson
Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Jake Young 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Callum
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd
rocktigger 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Emma, Ben, Clare
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
a13x 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Mason, John Phethean
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead RP
ashtond6 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
alp79 02/Mar/13 2nd
samt ??/2013 -
greglad ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
James Oswald 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Massively underated. Really cool route

with Colin Angus
victim of mathematics 09/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Nice climbing. Only just tall enough to reach past the really tricky move!

stemill 06/Oct/12 2nd
with Mark
rob.grafton 04/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim, Phil Evans
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
jshields 16/Sep/12 Lead

Hard move for the vertically challenged!

derekb 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Leon
leon 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Derek
Steve Perry 04/Sep/12 Lead

Didn't commit to the top then realised I should have when my second sailed up it!

etrillaud 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Gudge ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Spongeclimber ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with adi bryant
Sebastien Gastaud 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 19/Jun/12 Lead
with Rob Middleton, Sam Stringer
tigertim 19/Jun/12 Lead
Haydn Jones 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with deacon, duncan, ed morris
Ed morris 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Kirill 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
cem 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

1 rest

mtempest 31/Mar/12 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31/Mar/12 Lead

Excellent climbing. At my height (6' 1") both moves were 5a. The nut in the crack below is a bomber.

RyanC 11/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
AdamBrown 11/Mar/12 2nd
Reedymc 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Nick Mitchell, Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Soft touch but nice climbing.

with Tom Reed, Nick Mitchell
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Tobias at Home 15/Oct/11 -
with SteveM
SteveM 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Tobs
JRae 19/Sep/11 Lead


with A Saul
Reaver2k 19/Sep/11 2nd
with JRae
Dave Foster 18/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Superb arete moves, deserves more than one star.

with Si 2
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Jeromecooper 03/Sep/11 Lead
Batt 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Bit reachy if you're 5'4'', just enough of a smear for right foot to reach the break but it's a bit go-ey! Must be soft touch surely if you can reach that top break?!

David Kay 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Mynydd C.C.
Hoyes 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

very reach dependent, at least a grade harder for those below 5'10"

Liam Ingram 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Had to jump through the crux and I am 5ft 10.

Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
geddicakes 11/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/11 -
kermit_uk 05/Jun/11 Lead β

Repeat from years ago

with Ian, Steve Woolass
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead
mark20 08/May/11 2nd rpt
LakesWinter 08/May/11 Lead O/S

Scary and close to E2 if you're under 6 foot or have short arms.

with Mark R
peterstanworth 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Put a cheeky side runner in. Nadeem would have been sad

brynmays 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kyebrooks 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

used side runner. Much more difficult for shorties

with steve tree
Goose4 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
RossT 12/Apr/11 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
jacobjacob 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Glanced at the guidebook and set off on what I thought was a HS arete... Exciting times!

Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
cem 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Pete Horn
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/11 Lead
with Matt Smith
alaan 26/Feb/11 Solo
thekendo 29/Jan/11 Lead dnf
uphillnow ??/2011 -
furry 06/Nov/10 Lead dnf
with LMC
Hidden 13/Oct/10 -
Adam Potter 10/Oct/10 2nd
BeccaSnowden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Got scared and used a pre-clipped runner (above the hard bit) placed from the next route. Did the moves easily anyway silly me... HVS with my 'siderunner'?? I'm 5'2 and glad - being able to reach the break from the ledge would just take the whole point out of the route! Very worth doing **

dazwan 26/Sep/10 2nd dnf

seconded this and enjoyed the moves after a few goes. Just not tall enough for the final move, all I could see was blank wall so nipped round to the left and finished in the corner.

with Stew B
ebf 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing in a splendid position but quite scary and run out from the top of the hollow flake. More serious than Tower Face Direct which I led earlier in the day.

edmitchell 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
LankyPaddy 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Alistair Ross
max_chan 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Phil PCC, Steve Carty
mark20 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Pythonist 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

I would be terrified not having a 6' reach on this one... Great lower moves, but the blank upper arete (right side, yes?) is terrifying! Take large cams for that top break!

stephenhartley 23/Aug/10 2nd
with Aiden
adam carless 08/Aug/10 2nd

that move is a lot easier on second ;-)

with Claire's mate Chris
Diggler 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Calder 24/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/10 Lead
Bill Lawrence 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

bold move in the final section!

with Guy VG
GuyVG 19/Jun/10 Lead β

on billys gear, placed the 'siderunner' at HVS. Without this it makes the route contrived when the moves are brilliant.

adi bryant 28/May/10 Lead O/S

I lke this sort of climbing- just enough gear,technical arete.

with Jake
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead β
craig naylor 28/Apr/10 Lead
Graeme Hammond 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

nice moves all the way, thought probably a harrowing if your short to reach the break below the top, thankfully I'm not :)

jubolo 16/Apr/10 2nd
with JIm
MorganPreece 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Mested about on the crux for a long time! easy once done!

with Jessy and Solo
boulderholder 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A very nice and fairly straightforward climb with a friendly jamming start and pretty positive arete with good holds. Reasonable gear throughout, except the crux, and rests all the way up. Deserves more stars!

peaches69 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S

heart stopping stuff before final break, which isn't verry good

with sarah
The_Boy_ODwyer 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Tomlinson, Kelly
Hardcore Pat 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Maxim2023 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Morgan Preece
tom.e 25/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
PeteH 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Unexpectedly good and independent climbing. Really enjoyable!

NaomiHart 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Noel Peatfield, Peter Hart
Hidden 15/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Will_Maxwell 15/Mar/10 Lead O/S

First E1 of trip!

with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
Andy Peak 1 07/Mar/10 Lead
rob1 ??/2010 Lead dog
with Alex Wellings
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
frume 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this climb, my first on sight lead. Crux a little scary but not too bad.

Hidden 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Dom Whillans 20/Sep/09 -
with a.crook
A Crook 20/Sep/09 TR
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
willoates ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

hard top move

Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
tatz45 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Morgan
Harald 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 17/Feb/09 Lead O/S
michaelja ?/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
benkelsey ??/2009 2nd O/S
default_slipper 14/Dec/08 -
with will
w.pettet-smith ?/Dec/08 TR

shameful top roping. was proper wet though. i will do it properly at some point.

with shai the nutter
Daniel Bergo 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Nowhere near as reachy as some descriptions suggest, just requires a cool head for a couple of moves on a rounded arete with distant and not perfect gear.

Simon Holden (LCandCC) 17/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Matt Grodon
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
7om ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Jonny Argue
Shauna 19/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Ray
rayash 19/Jun/08 Lead dog

save your power for the top (cheated on crux)

with shauna
OffshoreAndy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
Eccentric 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 10/May/08 2nd O/S
jimsrankin ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Adrian
Hidden 09/Feb/08 2nd rpt
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead O/S
with dave
bullybones ??/2008 -
nacnud 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 14/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Binney
UndercoverElephant 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

The hand pull on the round arret with the polished smear for the foot well above the last gear seemed a bit much for E1. That's what you get for being 5'7" I suppose.

with S
Mr Tickle 29/Aug/07 Lead
SecretSquirrel 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
adam carless 04/Aug/07 2nd rpt

Squirrel lead this in fine style, a good E1 tick!

kermit_uk 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
kermit 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S

easier as i'm tall! Such a nice route easy 2 stars! Just scary enough, especially as the rock 2 i needed for the top of the crack i placed lower down!

with Steve
Dale ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with johny
Luke Brooks 23/May/07 Lead O/S
SimonBrown ?/May/07 2nd dog
with Al Dossiter
Coel Hellier 28/Apr/07 Lead
adam carless 04/Apr/07 2nd rpt
with Hugh
sasmojo 17/Mar/07 Lead dnf

was wet as you like, scared myself on the polished crux. didn't wish to lob. bold crux for an E1 wish to try again.

with Taz
Hidden ??/2007 -
Si dH 19/Aug/06 Lead rpt

Very height-dependent. At 5ft11 can just get the fingertips of one hand on the good hold at the crux while stood on the ledge below, but still need to use my feet and other hand quite a bit - I rekcon its about 5a like that, and worth E1 for the run-out, which is bigger than I'd remembered. For the short it mkust be significantly harder again I think, and in fact my second took 2 goes (hes shorter than me). But for anyone much taller than me (maybe 6ft1 or more) andable to get two hadns to the good hold from the ledge, it cant be more than 4c, and I expect the crux is then slightly lower down and the route not really E1. I reckon this is worth at least 2 stars as well, if not 3.

with Tom Lambert
dpurf 18/Aug/06 2nd rpt
with Patrick
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
GeckoGeek 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Arin
arin78 29/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Mark
eldre070 23/Jul/06 TR O/S
with Laura Eldred
Mutl3y 20/Jul/06 2nd
with Fletch
Gambit 11/May/06 Lead O/S

Easy if you are tall

with Tim
Paz 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with LJ, CC
Lev 16/Apr/06 2nd β
with Paz
dan gibson 12/Apr/06 2nd
with AJ, helen gibson
Skell 01/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Sharpe
Hidden ??/2006 -
EG 31/Oct/05 Lead O/S

Easy E1, which I climbed having half intended to go up wall end crack direct. Kristy nearly managed to trip me up off the top of the crag afterwards which proved scarier than the climb itself.

with Kristy
Tobias at Home 29/Oct/05 2nd O/S

Looked more fun than Wall End Flake Crack.

with SteveM
SteveM 29/Oct/05 Lead
with Tobs
goi.ashmore 28/Aug/05 Solo O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 20/Aug/05 2nd dog
Si dH 11/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
reg_measures 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
maybe_si 06/Jun/05 Lead O/S

first E1!!!

adam carless ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S

Sandbagged myself on this one, thought it was the HVS next door (didn't read the guidebook carefully enough). Nice line, but the crux moves feel like they are escapable by stepping round the corner. And it's a long stretch for the good holds. Month is a guess, early this year

with Pali
nai ??/2005 Lead
chris sm ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Stig 08/Sep/04 2nd dog

One slip

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
cem 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Rod Strachan
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/04 Lead rpt
Mark Collins 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 20/May/04 Lead
markysums ?/Mar/04 Lead
Hidden 23/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Not sure about date, but remember it was windy

Jon Greengrass ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden ??/2002 -
BruceW ??/2001 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 10/Jun/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/97 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1997 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/95 2nd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Paul
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
with Paul Tucker
Hidden 14/May/94 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/94 -
Hidden 19/Sep/93 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 21/Aug/93 2nd
with Malcolm Macpherson
Hidden 01/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
John Marsland 29/Aug/92 2nd
with Dave Soles
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Neil R 24/Jul/90 Lead
with Richard W
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 21/May/89 Lead
with Mick Moss
Michael Hood 16/Aug/87 Lead
Dave Musgrove 29/Nov/86 -
with Kim Greenald
malc 02/Oct/85 2nd
with Paul S
Hidden 19/May/84 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/83 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dynodean, Theeni, Hidden, robw007, humptydumpty, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, speekingleesh, Hidden, petellis, Pythonist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 61
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set