Helfenstein's Struggle** HVD 4a
[Syv empathises with Helfenstein, 3 kb]16m. The wide black rift is alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or make an 'outside' exit at an exposed S 4a. © ROCKFAX
FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Through Routes!, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs.

Photo: Syv empathises with Helfenstein © sarahlizzy

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 249 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 14/Dec/14 with Henry, gwen

The hint is in the name. Why I decided on this for a first outing to Stanage..?
scottywakefield - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Dave Mobbs

100 IAD No. 49
sparkass - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14

Not all that bad really.
Tom Last - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Billy

The outside exit is much nicer (also my ass wouldn't fit through the hole)
kwickfit - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Andrew Gregson

Didthe S 4a finish, a lot better than going through the 'rat hole' at the top!
climbingfoetus - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with andy tyerman

This climb pretty much undressed me. The wind blowing up the chimney took my shirt off and the top squeeze tried to claim my trousers!
Jack Whiteley - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/May/14

Through the hole was tricky
jon_Str - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/May/14

Pretty tasty in the wet! But a great route for Bubbles to show commitment and perseverance before getting married, even if he was pulled through the top!!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 26/Apr/14 with Will Ripley, Hamish, Robbie, Ollie B, Florence the Machine, Bubbles

alaster tonge - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

Route 6 of the Stanage Winter challenge. Definitely E5. 'Nuff said.
Goodstuff - 2nd O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Mike Gallimore

Done as part of the first successful completion of the stanage winter challenge, in a time of 7hrs. Cheers for an amazing day James :) Hope this route hasn't scarred you for life!
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Goodstuff

Tim W - Solo O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Dave Ripley

dave657 - Solo rpt - 23/Nov/13 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/13

Could not get through the top hole
thrutch - 2nd - 28/Sep/13 with Marc

Hmm. Strangely alluring. Got part way through the hole but too chicken to commit and push through and get stuck. Wimped out, and down-climbed stripping the gear. Will come back when thinner and fitter and better.
Alaric - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/13 with garywong

UNABLE TO SQUEEZE THROUGH THE RAT HOLE I DOWNCLIMBED AND WE SWAPPED THE ROPES TO DO AN OUTSIDE FINISH
schristophersmith - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/13 with silas feaver

althesin - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with schristophersmith

Certainly a struggle. Got through the hole though!
pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Lizzie Culwick

Pam struggled and needed a toprope to exit at the top. Too much gear on her harness meant she couldn't squeeze through
hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Pamela

Outside route, will try to squeeze through the hole again another way next time
MD - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Jo

Mike couldn't squeeze through the top so went round. A quick lower from the top to find I could just get through - so next time will have to do it proper!
Happy Wanderer - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Mike D

deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/13

Fun finish going right and avoiding the squeeze.
JohnHutch - Lead - 01/Jul/13 with L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Matt Marsh - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with James Swainston

joermann - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

got jammed in the crack at the top for 15 minutes.
Matt Marsh - Lead - 04/Jun/13 with Joe Mann

i bailed the and took the exit out and over which was more enjoyable
HVSJames - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Matt Marsh

andyfry - 2nd - 05/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Definitely a struggle!
dsgarner - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Cat Smith

sheelba - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2013

Try to work the hole.... one pie to many, but boy I tried. Then cruised the alternative route.
Lukem6 - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Jenny Monkey

didn't try the squeeze, will give it a go when its warmer and i have less layers on!
Jenny Monkey - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Luke Mansfield

still one of the hardest diffs around.
rustaldo - Solo rpt - 02/Nov/12

Tight fit through the top gap
mattprince - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/12 with Joe Doherty

Excellent climb. Unfortunately in my struggle to get through the hole i kicked most of my gear out. It was wet, slimy and overall quite smelly, but probably one of the most fun climbs I've done in a while! Definitely worth doing if you're small. (my rack did get stuck for a bit going though the hole though.) My second who is a little larger took some time to wiggle though.
Roonix - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Oo - Lead - 29/Sep/12

LifeAboveTheBolt - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

with Jack. cant remember who lead. got to the hole and didnt fancy sqeezing my horrid little belly through
wjcdean - Jun/12 with Jack Ottaway

neither made it through the top
jeottaway - Jun/12 with William Dean

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/12

Heather651 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Horrid. Had to climb down off crux & rest. Kicked 2 of top 3 bits of gear out on final push. Scuffed helmet to buggery, and (I think) broke a rib. Johanna got jammed on crux, had to lower off
nameless_rob - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Johanna

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/12

Danielg - TR - 2012

Hidden - 2012

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Matt Prince

luke321 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with James Redding

Accurately named. An easy route until you have to top out through a narrow opening. I got stuck and had to be pulled out from the top by Martin Davies (thanks Martin).
Feneley - Lead dog - 15/Oct/11 with Jason Maunder, Pete Brook, Martin Davies

Not nearly as tight a squeeze as I'd been led to believe. I shouldn't have avoided it for all these years!
victim of mathematics - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/11

20 odd minutes of wiggling and I'm still not sure how I managed to get through the finish!
argyle_dude - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

i.fish2000 - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with keith penney

Left shaking when I got out!
Alex Thompson - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/11

I need to diet!
Si Croft - Lead - 03/Jun/11 with James, Bernie, JD

Hidden - Solo - 10/May/11

This is so far the hardest climb on grit I have done! The bottom is a doddle but what a bastard the squeeze is at the top!
matt0759 - Solo - 03/May/11

Attempting to toprope ("third") the route not recommended - the rope ether has to come through the hole, committing you to a scramble through what our group christened "that stupid hole" (None of us managed it) or leaving one rather exposed when one gets close to the top of the climb
zoeimogen - TR dnf - 02/May/11 with Sarah Brown

Spent ten minutes trying to get through the StupidHole™. Lst much skin, squished my right boob, gave up, shoved three million cams in, went round the outside. Very unusual climb!
sarahlizzy - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Zoe, Syv

Followed leader to outside exit.
syv_k - 2nd β - 02/May/11 with sarahlizzy

After following my lead partner around the outside of the hole without incident, I thought I could probably fit through the squeeze. Gave up after my arms were aching from too many attempts of trying to pull my hips through and failing.
syv_k - TR dnf - 02/May/11 with sarahlizzy

Shoulders got wedged in the hole at the top, I could actually take my feet off and just hang by the shoulders, really fun route!!!
robblowen - 2nd β - 18/Apr/11 with Succa89

succa89 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with robblowen

Couldn't squeeze through that little hole! Had to use an outside exit.
papalazarou - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/11

Michelle lead.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with Jo B, Michelle A

Luke90 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

JG - 2011

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Couldn't fit, spent ages wiggling and trying to make my lungs smaller, but eventually went the outside route, what a shame.
ablackett - Lead - 31/Oct/10 with Adam

Tris lead and got stuck so I passed
sirmattytheman - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/10 with Tristan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10 with charlotte

Arse too big for the hole at the top... lowered offa nut and removed from above (getting eaten alive in the process)
Dr Rorlasaurus - Lead - 08/Sep/10 with Luke Wolsey

alexanderbeetle - Lead - 08/Sep/10 with Laura Edwards

Came back to retry, failled first attempt earlier in summer after kicking a rock and losing. second attempt I think i need to lose weight. I Just couldn't get through the top even with help. Also, beware nuts tend to slip out at top due to alot of damp moss.
Lukem6 - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/10 with dennis janisse

stephenhartley - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Aiden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10

ollie080488 - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Richard Clauge

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/10

JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Liam Ingram, Claire Holland

llamaglama - Solo - 08/Aug/10 with Jam

Oliver Houston - Solo - 03/Jul/10

was wet and green unable to get grip, had to remove a little moss on left to get hand hold :-(
Lukem6 - TR dnf - 12/Jun/10 with Jenny Monkey

jcurley - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Philip Heffernan, Sam Curley

Quickdraw Phil - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Joe Curley

Hidden - Solo - 16/May/10

Outside exit at S 4a
tinyali - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Sam Stringer

Stuck! Then un-stuck.
bnewman - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with Amelia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/10

A right laugh. Got Proper stuck in the hole. Had a friend trying to pull me through to no avail. Worked better when he pulled bits of my rack through as I wiggled.
jubolo - Lead - 27/Mar/10 with mark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/10

Will_Maxwell - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/10 with Rafael Pena

keith leonard - 2010

jimmys - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tom F

dave657 - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/09

Hidden - 24/Sep/09

hmmm... tight fit
Mattyk - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Jo, Ali K, Jamie Moss

Lorna as belay bunny (she's the sane one)
francois - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Lorna

simonw1 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with becky, marc and sharon

easy climbing but took about 6 attempts to squeeze through the hole at the top, seriously thought i was going to get stuck!!!
dean79 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Marc Lloyd

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 18/Aug/09

climbed as a 4, other 3 made it through, I didn't and had to go around! - How fat do I feel?!
chubbyclimber - 2nd - 16/Aug/09 with Pete, Kate, Andy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/May/09

smudge - Solo O/S - 01/May/09

A comedy climb. Was absolutely convinced I was stuck in the hole, but then realised it was that pesky number nine hex.
barney800 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Katherine Shaw

Great fun through the squeeze
Ropeboy - Solo - 19/Apr/09 with Philip Jennings

popebenedictus - Solo rpt - 18/Apr/09 with Soloed

Got stuck in the hole but not stuck enough not to drop out of the bottom and had a slight panic attack. Perhaps diet required??
Smeggles - 2nd dnf - 18/Apr/09 with Albatross Stu

My god. Tight squeeze, but hanging your rack from a sling on your belay loop helps!
stuartmunn - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Meg

adrianscott - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Ben Harding

tommytwotone - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09

SteveM - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/08 with Natalie Wilson

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Dec/08

Did the "exposed 'outside' exit" (apparently at HS 4a - Rockfax 2001) after downclimbing from the hole I couldn't fit my chest through.
tommcdonna - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Jonno Cox

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/08

Well I didn't enjoy the hole in the slightest, was like being born in reverse. Don't see how someone racked up and/or bigger than me could get through.
GuyVG - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/08

ruthonbike - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08

left out the hole, really don't want to get stuck!!! struggle to get all the gear back... VD n stanage guide
naine - Lead dnf - 03/May/08 with janina

Went through the hole at the top. Everyone else got wedged in, but I was too small and kept coming down! Glad I was on the rope.
tinyali - 2nd dog - 04/Apr/08 with Hannah Moulton

Hannah Moulton - Lead - 04/Apr/08 with tinyali

I can see why he struggled! Took an age to squeeze out the top as my chalk bag got stuck.
confusicating - Solo O/S - Feb/08

kp64zl - Lead - Feb/08 with Keith

Hannah Moulton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/07

my ribs/manboobs made this one a physical impossibility. bloody orible!
howlingbaboon - 2nd dnf - 22/Sep/07 with Chris FitzHugh

danm - Solo - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

duzinga - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Alex Twist

Graeme placed all the rack- to make my exit a bitch!
Twisty - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Graeme Hammond

The finish took about 20mins to get through, and involved de-racking everything to squeeze past after about 15 attempts. Lots of scrapes and scratches. Curiously good fun!
hcooper - Lead - 06/Jun/07 with Jennifer Adcott

Note to self: I do not fit through the rat hole.
popebenedictus - AltLd RP - 07/May/07 with Ruth Harding

Powder Puff Girl - TR O/S - 07/May/07 with Ben H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

Jim Vach - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/07

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Duncan I - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/06

freakeystyley34 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Rampikino - Lead - 17/Sep/06 with Cat

spbond - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/06 with Mark Stitson

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 13/Sep/06 with Steve Bond

Silly route.
apeman241 - 2nd dnf - 15/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/06

gibbo38 - Lead - 03/Jun/06 with brian

In (meticulously cleaned) trainers.
Paz - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with CC2

Took the outside route for a change
Tobias at Home - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/05 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 29/Oct/05 with Tobs

Nicos - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/05 with solo

HaHaHaHaHa Glad im thin!!
loonyclimber - Lead O/S - Sep/05

SMc - Jun/05 with Anne

drysori - Lead - 2005

awkward you just gotta go for it even tho you feel like your about to fall out, helmets dont fit through
Alex Mason - Lead - Oct/04 with rob lonsdale

Outside exit
cem - 2nd - 01/Aug/04 with Rod Strachan

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/04

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 16/Jun/04 with Nicola Pettit

ChrisJD - Lead - 20/May/04 with Clare

Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/04 with Carmen

Phil West - 2nd - 27/Mar/04 with David Atherton

Chris was too fat to follow!
Phil West - Lead - 06/Mar/04 with Chris Tan

Jez - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/03

Didn't fit through the hole!
zcapxa5 - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/03 with Ted

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/03

Hidden - 14/Jul/03

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 29/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with Reuben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/03

AJ007 - Solo - Sep/02

A Crook - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/02 with Pat Boothman

PenJD - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/02 with Jim and Matt

Hidden - 2002

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/01

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 12/May/01 with Keith Shaw, Richard Tomlinson

Rock Fairy - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jul/99

craig h - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/98 with Luke Steer

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 1998 with Paul Hennelly

DundeeDave - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/96 with Charlie, Ben Hughes

Brazzer - 2nd O/S - Aug/95 with Ben Tufnell

did outside route
Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/95 with Andy Symonds

chris d williams - Lead - 14/Jul/95 with Ian Archer

Hidden - Lead - 1995

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 1995 with chopper

Hidden - Solo - 14/Aug/93

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/90

Hidden - 15/Jan/89

Iain Thow - Solo rpt - 25/Jun/88

Iain Thow - 2nd - 18/May/88 with Steve di Ponio

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

John Marsland - Solo - 24/May/86

First trip to Stanage, first climb...in retrospect, not perhaps the wisest choice!
Tony Buckley - Lead - Sep/85 with Steve Byatt

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/85

Andy Say - Lead - 1985

John Marsland - Solo - 15/Jul/84

Pete Pozman - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/83 with Garry Rushworth

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/82

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/80

Andy Fielding - Solo - 1980

babymoac - Solo - 1980

MikeDowsett - Lead - 1978

RichardMc - Lead - 16/Jul/77 with Harry Woodbridge

tapley - Solo - 05/Jul/77

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

Nigel Bond - Lead - 03/Nov/74 with John

rogerskews - 1973

Given Diff at the time. Helfenstein wasn't the only one who struggled. Chosen to get shelter from the rain.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/70 with Debbie Wilkinson

JonG - 1970

mikej - Solo - 28/Apr/68 with Geoff Williams

mikej - Solo - 03/Jul/66 with Geoff Williams

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jun/66

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/66

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/65

mikej - TR - 24/Feb/65 with Barrie Dixon

Hidden - Solo - 07/Nov/64

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Joshh, thedatastream, Ragingpossum, johnpr, johnnorley, b.hayley, neilfish

Voting
Total votes cast 100
hard S0 of 36
S0 of 36
easy S1 of 36
hard HVD1 of 36
HVD22 of 36
easy HVD2 of 36
hard VD10 of 36
VD0 of 36
easy VD0 of 36
hard 4b0 of 31
4b0 of 31
easy 4b0 of 31
hard 4a2 of 31
4a21 of 31
easy 4a7 of 31
hard 3c1 of 31
3c0 of 31
easy 3c0 of 31
3 Stars12 of 33
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Style of ascent

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