Rockfax Description
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or do the Outside Exit at an exposed S 4a. © Rockfax

FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Through Routes!, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs.

charley 13/Sep Solo O/S

Couldn't quite fit without removing a shoulder/arm so did the outside finish instead!!

jonhowson 11/Aug Lead O/S

Having watched many people flounder for hours in the dank crack we had to do this one. I am skinny and this was tight on me. I would not want to be much bigger unless I had a tub of butter on my rack. But then if you're the type of person who has a tub of butter on your rack you should probably give this one a miss...

with Francis
shell145 19/Jul Lead

Couldn't fit through hole so had to come down. Later tried being lowered through it and still didn't fit!

with Ross
dewiturton 11/Jul Solo
with keitht
sas 10/Jun Solo O/S
cmars89 30/May Lead
with Pete Duckworth
gronbech 04/May Lead O/S
with Robin
Hidden 25/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr Lead O/S
nottommo 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr Lead O/S
John Higgs 08/Mar Lead O/S

Outside Exit

with Caitlin Bell
omaskrey 22/Feb Lead O/S

Very cold

with EUCC
andrewmcleod 21/Feb Lead dnf

Got up to the hole, had a few goes at getting through it and bailed. Let Tom lead it on my preplaced gear. My excuses: I had too much gear on my harness, I was rapidly becoming I'll although I didn't know it at the time, and everything was dripping. Oh and the snowstorm so I couldn't feel hands or feet...

Hidden 21/Feb TR O/S
twill 21/Feb Lead O/S
tomlevett 01/Jan -
Canyak ??/2015 -
Dale Finnie ??/2015 Lead
Ewan Russell 14/Dec/14 Solo O/S
with Henry, gwen
scottywakefield 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

The hint is in the name. Why I decided on this for a first outing to Stanage..?

with Dave Mobbs
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 49

Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Last 08/Aug/14 2nd

Not all that bad really.

with Billy
kwickfit 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The outside exit is much nicer (also my ass wouldn't fit through the hole)

climbingfoetus 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Didthe S 4a finish, a lot better than going through the 'rat hole' at the top!

Jack Whiteley 05/Jun/14 Solo O/S

This climb pretty much undressed me. The wind blowing up the chimney took my shirt off and the top squeeze tried to claim my trousers!

Hidden 31/May/14 2nd β
jon_Str 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Through the hole was tricky

Hidden 03/May/14 Solo O/S
Duncan Campbell 26/Apr/14 2nd

Pretty tasty in the wet! But a great route for Bubbles to show commitment and perseverance before getting married, even if he was pulled through the top!!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Apr/14 Lead
alaster tonge 18/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Goodstuff 21/Dec/13 2nd O/S

Route 6 of the Stanage Winter challenge. Definitely E5. 'Nuff said.

with Mike Gallimore
MichaelGallimore 21/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Done as part of the first successful completion of the stanage winter challenge, in a time of 7hrs. Cheers for an amazing day James :) Hope this route hasn't scarred you for life!

Tim W 23/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead
thrutch 28/Sep/13 2nd

Could not get through the top hole

with Marc
Alaric 31/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Hmm. Strangely alluring. Got part way through the hole but too chicken to commit and push through and get stuck. Wimped out, and down-climbed stripping the gear. Will come back when thinner and fitter and better.

schristophersmith 26/Aug/13 2nd dog


althesin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pearson9596 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Certainly a struggle. Got through the hole though!

with Lizzie Culwick
hazeysunshine 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Pam struggled and needed a toprope to exit at the top. Too much gear on her harness meant she couldn't squeeze through

with Pamela
MD 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Outside route, will try to squeeze through the hole again another way next time

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Mike couldn't squeeze through the top so went round. A quick lower from the top to find I could just get through - so next time will have to do it proper!

with Mike D
deacondeacon 12/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
professorcobra 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Matt Marsh 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
joermann 04/Jun/13 2nd
Matt Marsh 04/Jun/13 Lead

got jammed in the crack at the top for 15 minutes.

with Joe Mann
HVSJames ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

i bailed the and took the exit out and over which was more enjoyable

andyfry 05/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
dsgarner 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Definitely a struggle!

with Cat Smith
sheelba 20/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd O/S
Lukem6 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Try to work the hole.... one pie to many, but boy I tried. Then cruised the alternative route.

Jenny Monkey 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

didn't try the squeeze, will give it a go when its warmer and i have less layers on!

rustaldo 02/Nov/12 Solo rpt

still one of the hardest diffs around.

mattprince 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Tight fit through the top gap

Roonix 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Excellent climb. Unfortunately in my struggle to get through the hole i kicked most of my gear out. It was wet, slimy and overall quite smelly, but probably one of the most fun climbs I've done in a while! Definitely worth doing if you're small. (my rack did get stuck for a bit going though the hole though.) My second who is a little larger took some time to wiggle though.

Oo 29/Sep/12 Lead
LifeAboveTheBolt 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 2nd
wjcdean ?/Jun/12 -

with Jack. cant remember who lead. got to the hole and didnt fancy sqeezing my horrid little belly through

jeottaway ?/Jun/12 -

neither made it through the top

Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 AltLd
Heather651 06/May/12 Lead O/S
nameless_rob 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Horrid. Had to climb down off crux & rest. Kicked 2 of top 3 bits of gear out on final push. Scuffed helmet to buggery, and (I think) broke a rib. Johanna got jammed on crux, had to lower off

with Johanna
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Danielg ??/2012 TR
Hidden ??/2012 -
joedoherty 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S
luke321 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with James Redding
Feneley 15/Oct/11 Lead dog

Accurately named. An easy route until you have to top out through a narrow opening. I got stuck and had to be pulled out from the top by Martin Davies (thanks Martin).

with Jason Maunder, Pete Brook, Martin Davies
victim of mathematics 30/Sep/11 Solo O/S

Not nearly as tight a squeeze as I'd been led to believe. I shouldn't have avoided it for all these years!

argyle_dude 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

20 odd minutes of wiggling and I'm still not sure how I managed to get through the finish!

Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
i.fish2000 24/Jul/11 Lead
with keith penney
Alex Thompson 18/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Left shaking when I got out!

Si Croft 03/Jun/11 Lead

I need to diet!

with James, Bernie, JD
Hidden 10/May/11 Solo
matt0759 03/May/11 Solo

This is so far the hardest climb on grit I have done! The bottom is a doddle but what a bastard the squeeze is at the top!

zoeimogen 02/May/11 TR dnf

Attempting to toprope ("third") the route not recommended - the rope ether has to come through the hole, committing you to a scramble through what our group christened "that stupid hole" (None of us managed it) or leaving one rather exposed when one gets close to the top of the climb

sarahlizzy 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Spent ten minutes trying to get through the StupidHole™. Lst much skin, squished my right boob, gave up, shoved three million cams in, went round the outside. Very unusual climb!

with Zoe, Syv
syv_k 02/May/11 2nd β

Followed leader to outside exit.

syv_k 02/May/11 TR dnf

After following my lead partner around the outside of the hole without incident, I thought I could probably fit through the squeeze. Gave up after my arms were aching from too many attempts of trying to pull my hips through and failing.

robblowen 18/Apr/11 2nd β

Shoulders got wedged in the hole at the top, I could actually take my feet off and just hang by the shoulders, really fun route!!!

with Succa89
succa89 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with robblowen
papalazarou 15/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't squeeze through that little hole! Had to use an outside exit.

masa-alpin 10/Apr/11 2nd β

Michelle lead.

with Jo B, Michelle A
Luke90 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
ablackett 31/Oct/10 Lead

Couldn't fit, spent ages wiggling and trying to make my lungs smaller, but eventually went the outside route, what a shame.

with Adam
sirmattytheman 25/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Tris lead and got stuck so I passed

with Tristan
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
Dr Rorlasaurus 08/Sep/10 Lead

Arse too big for the hole at the top... lowered offa nut and removed from above (getting eaten alive in the process)

alexanderbeetle 08/Sep/10 Lead
Lukem6 01/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Came back to retry, failled first attempt earlier in summer after kicking a rock and losing. second attempt I think i need to lose weight. I Just couldn't get through the top even with help. Also, beware nuts tend to slip out at top due to alot of damp moss.

stephenhartley 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Aiden
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ollie Wickham 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Richard Clauge
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Solo O/S
JamieSparkes 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S
llamaglama 08/Aug/10 Solo
with Jam
Oliver Houston 03/Jul/10 Solo
Lukem6 12/Jun/10 TR dnf

was wet and green unable to get grip, had to remove a little moss on left to get hand hold :-(

jcurley 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Philip Heffernan, Sam Curley
Quickdraw Phil 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Solo
tinyali 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Outside exit at S 4a

with Sam Stringer
bnewman 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Stuck! Then un-stuck.

with Amelia
Hidden 06/Apr/10 Solo O/S
jubolo 27/Mar/10 Lead

A right laugh. Got Proper stuck in the hole. Had a friend trying to pull me through to no avail. Worked better when he pulled bits of my rack through as I wiggled.

with mark
Hidden 15/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Will_Maxwell 15/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Rafael Pena
keith leonard ??/2010 -
jimmys 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tom F
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 -
Mattyk 12/Sep/09 Solo O/S

hmmm... tight fit

with Jo, Ali K, Jamie Moss
francois 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Lorna as belay bunny (she's the sane one)

with Lorna
simonw1 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with becky, marc and sharon
dean79 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

easy climbing but took about 6 attempts to squeeze through the hole at the top, seriously thought i was going to get stuck!!!

Graeme Hammond 18/Aug/09 Solo rpt
chubbyclimber 16/Aug/09 2nd

climbed as a 4, other 3 made it through, I didn't and had to go around! - How fat do I feel?!

with Pete, Kate, Andy
Hidden 29/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd dnf
smudge 01/May/09 Solo O/S
barney800 ?/May/09 Lead O/S

A comedy climb. Was absolutely convinced I was stuck in the hole, but then realised it was that pesky number nine hex.

with Katherine Shaw
Ropeboy 19/Apr/09 Solo

Great fun through the squeeze

with Philip Jennings
popebenedictus 18/Apr/09 Solo rpt
with Soloed
Smeggles 18/Apr/09 2nd dnf

Got stuck in the hole but not stuck enough not to drop out of the bottom and had a slight panic attack. Perhaps diet required??

stuartmunn 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

My god. Tight squeeze, but hanging your rack from a sling on your belay loop helps!

with Meg
adrianscott 18/Apr/09 Solo O/S
tommytwotone 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
SteveM 15/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Mr. K 24/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/08 AltLd dog
tommcdonna 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Did the "exposed 'outside' exit" (apparently at HS 4a - Rockfax 2001) after downclimbing from the hole I couldn't fit my chest through.

with Jonno Cox
Hidden 11/Aug/08 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/08 TR O/S
GuyVG 23/Jun/08 Solo O/S

Well I didn't enjoy the hole in the slightest, was like being born in reverse. Don't see how someone racked up and/or bigger than me could get through.

Hidden 16/Jun/08 2nd
ruthonbike 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
naine 03/May/08 Lead dnf

left out the hole, really don't want to get stuck!!! struggle to get all the gear back... VD n stanage guide

with janina
tinyali 04/Apr/08 2nd dog

Went through the hole at the top. Everyone else got wedged in, but I was too small and kept coming down! Glad I was on the rope.

Hannah Moulton 04/Apr/08 Lead
with tinyali
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
kp64zl ?/Feb/08 Lead
with Keith
Hannah Moulton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd rpt
howlingbaboon 22/Sep/07 2nd dnf

my ribs/manboobs made this one a physical impossibility. bloody orible!

danm ?/Sep/07 Solo
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
duzinga 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Graeme placed all the rack- to make my exit a bitch!

with Graeme Hammond
hcooper 06/Jun/07 Lead

The finish took about 20mins to get through, and involved de-racking everything to squeeze past after about 15 attempts. Lots of scrapes and scratches. Curiously good fun!

with Jennifer Adcott
popebenedictus 07/May/07 AltLd RP

Note to self: I do not fit through the rat hole.

Powder Puff Girl 07/May/07 TR O/S
with Ben H
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Jim Vach 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 08/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
freakeystyley34 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Rampikino 17/Sep/06 Lead
with Cat
spbond 13/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 13/Sep/06 2nd
apeman241 15/Jul/06 2nd dnf

Silly route.

Hidden 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
gibbo38 03/Jun/06 Lead
with brian
Paz 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S

In (meticulously cleaned) trainers.

with CC2
Tobias at Home 29/Oct/05 Lead rpt

Took the outside route for a change

with SteveM
SteveM 29/Oct/05 2nd
with Tobs
Nicos 21/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
loonyclimber ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

HaHaHaHaHa Glad im thin!!

SMc ?/Jun/05 -
with Anne
drysori ??/2005 Lead
Alex Mason ?/Oct/04 Lead

awkward you just gotta go for it even tho you feel like your about to fall out, helmets dont fit through

cem 01/Aug/04 2nd

Outside exit

with Rod Strachan
Hidden 24/Jul/04 2nd
DerwentDiluted 16/Jun/04 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden 20/May/04 Lead
Simon Caldwell 17/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Carmen
Phil West 27/Mar/04 2nd
with David Atherton
Phil West 06/Mar/04 Lead

Chris was too fat to follow!

with Chris Tan
Jez 15/Oct/03 Lead O/S
zcapxa5 14/Sep/03 Lead dnf

Didn't fit through the hole!

with Ted
Hidden 13/Sep/03 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/03 -
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 29/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Chris Davids ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Reuben
Hidden 27/Mar/03 2nd O/S
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 Solo
A Crook 11/Jul/02 Solo O/S
with Pat Boothman
PenJD 08/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jim and Matt
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 23/Sep/01 Solo O/S
John Brayshaw 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with Keith Shaw, Richard Tomlinson
Rock Fairy ??/2001 Lead
Blod 18/Mar/00 Solo O/S

Never again.

Hidden 24/Jul/99 Solo
craig h 21/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 2nd
with Paul Hennelly
Hidden 18/Oct/97 Lead
DundeeDave 06/Jul/96 Lead dnf
with Charlie, Ben Hughes
Brazzer ?/Aug/95 2nd O/S
with Ben Tufnell
Ian Archer 14/Jul/95 Lead O/S

did outside route

with Andy Symonds
chris d williams 14/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
rocktigger ??/1995 Lead O/S
with chopper
Hidden 14/Aug/93 Solo
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Solo
DubyaJamesDubya ??/1990 -
timbanton 15/Jan/89 -
Iain Thow 25/Jun/88 Solo rpt
Iain Thow 18/May/88 2nd
with Steve di Ponio
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
John Marsland 24/May/86 Solo
Tony Buckley ?/Sep/85 Lead

First trip to Stanage, first climb...in retrospect, not perhaps the wisest choice!

with Steve Byatt
Hidden 15/Jun/85 Lead
Andy Say ??/1985 Lead
John Marsland 15/Jul/84 Solo
Pete Pozman 16/Jan/83 AltLd O/S
with Garry Rushworth
Hidden 12/Apr/82 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/80 Solo O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1980 Solo
babymoac ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ?/Oct/78 Lead
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
RichardMc 16/Jul/77 Lead
with Harry Woodbridge
tapley 05/Jul/77 Solo
Dave Musgrove 24/Apr/77 Lead
with Jim Worthington
Nigel Bond 03/Nov/74 Lead
with John
rogerskews ??/1973 -
Rog Wilko ?/Nov/70 Lead

Given Diff at the time. Helfenstein wasn't the only one who struggled. Chosen to get shelter from the rain.

with Debbie Wilkinson
JonG ??/1970 -
mikej 28/Apr/68 Solo
with Geoff Williams
mikej 03/Jul/66 Solo
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 11/Jun/66 Solo
Hidden 28/May/66 Lead
Hidden 15/May/65 Lead
mikej 24/Feb/65 TR
with Barrie Dixon
Hidden 07/Nov/64 Solo
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High S
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Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 38
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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