Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Helfenstein's Struggle** HVD 4a

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[Syv empathises with Helfenstein, 3 kb]16m. The wide black rift is alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or make an 'outside' exit at an exposed S 4a. © ROCKFAX
FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Through Routes!, Stanage 100 VD - VS.

Photo: Syv empathises with Helfenstein © sarahlizzy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 193 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

andyfry - 2nd - 05/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Definitely a struggle!
dsgarner - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Cat Smith

sheelba - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Try to work the hole.... one pie to many, but boy I tried. Then cruised the alternative route.
lm610 - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Jenny Monkey

didn't try the squeeze, will give it a go when its warmer and i have less layers on!
Jenny Monkey - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Luke Mansfield

still one of the hardest diffs around.
rustaldo - Solo rpt - 02/Nov/12

Excellent climb. Unfortunately in my struggle to get through the hole i kicked most of my gear out. It was wet, slimy and overall quite smelly, but probably one of the most fun climbs I've done in a while! Definitely worth doing if you're small. (my rack did get stuck for a bit going though the hole though.) My second who is a little larger took some time to wiggle though.
Roonix - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Oo - Lead - 29/Sep/12

LifeAboveTheBolt - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/12

Heather651 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Horrid. Had to climb down off crux & rest. Kicked 2 of top 3 bits of gear out on final push. Scuffed helmet to buggery, and (I think) broke a rib. Johanna got jammed on crux, had to lower off
nameless_rob - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Johanna

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/12

Danielg - TR - 2012

Hidden - 2012

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Matt Prince

luke321 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with James Redding

Accurately named. An easy route until you have to top out through a narrow opening. I got stuck and had to be pulled out from the top by Martin Davies (thanks Martin).
Feneley - Lead dog - 15/Oct/11 with Jason Maunder, Pete Brook, Martin Davies

Not nearly as tight a squeeze as I'd been led to believe. I shouldn't have avoided it for all these years!
victim of mathematics - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/11

20 odd minutes of wiggling and I'm still not sure how I managed to get through the finish!
argyle_dude - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

sf2000 - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with keith penney

Left shaking when I got out!
Alex Thompson - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/11

I need to diet!
Si Croft - Lead - 03/Jun/11 with James, Bernie, JD

Hidden - Solo - 10/May/11

This is so far the hardest climb on grit I have done! The bottom is a doddle but what a bastard the squeeze is at the top!
matthias13 - Solo - 03/May/11

Attempting to toprope ("third") the route not recommended - the rope ether has to come through the hole, committing you to a scramble through what our group christened "that stupid hole" (None of us managed it) or leaving one rather exposed when one gets close to the top of the climb
zoeimogen - TR dnf - 02/May/11 with Sarah Brown

Spent ten minutes trying to get through the StupidHole™. Lst much skin, squished my right boob, gave up, shoved three million cams in, went round the outside. Very unusual climb!
sarahlizzy - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Zoe, Syv

Followed leader to outside exit.
syv_k - 2nd β - 02/May/11 with sarahlizzy

After following my lead partner around the outside of the hole without incident, I thought I could probably fit through the squeeze. Gave up after my arms were aching from too many attempts of trying to pull my hips through and failing.
syv_k - TR dnf - 02/May/11 with sarahlizzy

Shoulders got wedged in the hole at the top, I could actually take my feet off and just hang by the shoulders, really fun route!!!
robblowen - 2nd β - 18/Apr/11 with Succa89

succa89 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with robblowen

Couldn't squeeze through that little hole! Had to use an outside exit.
papalazarou - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/11

Michelle lead.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with Jo B, Michelle A

Luke90 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

JG - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Couldn't fit, spent ages wiggling and trying to make my lungs smaller, but eventually went the outside route, what a shame.
ablackett - Lead - 31/Oct/10 with Adam

Tris lead and got stuck so I passed
sirmattytheman - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/10 with Tristan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10 with charlotte

Arse too big for the hole at the top... lowered offa nut and removed from above (getting eaten alive in the process)
Dr Rorlasaurus - Lead - 08/Sep/10 with Luke Wolsey

alexanderbeetle - Lead - 08/Sep/10 with Laura Edwards

Came back to retry, failled first attempt earlier in summer after kicking a rock and losing. second attempt I think i need to lose weight. I Just couldn't get through the top even with help. Also, beware nuts tend to slip out at top due to alot of damp moss.
lm610 - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/10 with dennis janisse

stephenhartley - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Aiden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10

ollie080488 - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Richard Clauge

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/10

JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Liam, Claire

llamaglama - Solo - 08/Aug/10 with Jam

Oliver Houston - Solo - 03/Jul/10

was wet and green unable to get grip, had to remove a little moss on left to get hand hold :-(
lm610 - TR dnf - 12/Jun/10 with Jenny Monkey

jcurley - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Philip Heffernan, Sam Curley

Quickdraw Phil - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Joe Curley

Hidden - Solo - 16/May/10

Outside exit at S 4a
tinyali - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Sam Stringer

Stuck! Then un-stuck.
bnewman - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with Amelia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/10

A right laugh. Got Proper stuck in the hole. Had a friend trying to pull me through to no avail. Worked better when he pulled bits of my rack through as I wiggled.
jubolo - Lead - 27/Mar/10 with mark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/10

Will_Maxwell - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/10 with Rafael Pena

keith leonard - 2010

jimmys - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tom F

dave657 - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/09

Hidden - 24/Sep/09

hmmm... tight fit
Mattyk - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Jo, Ali K, Jamie Moss

Lorna as belay bunny (she's the sane one)
francois - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Lorna

simonw1 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with becky, marc and sharon

easy climbing but took about 6 attempts to squeeze through the hole at the top, seriously thought i was going to get stuck!!!
dean79 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Marcos31

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 18/Aug/09

climbed as a 4, other 3 made it through, I didn't and had to go around! - How fat do I feel?!
chubbyclimber - 2nd - 16/Aug/09 with Pete, Kate, Andy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jun/09

'Inside' and 'outside' exits.
madmats - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/May/09

smudge - Solo O/S - 01/May/09

A comedy climb. Was absolutely convinced I was stuck in the hole, but then realised it was that pesky number nine hex.
barney800 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Katherine Shaw

Great fun through the squeeze
Ropeboy - Solo - 19/Apr/09 with Philip Jennings

popebenedictus - Solo rpt - 18/Apr/09 with Soloed

Got stuck in the hole but not stuck enough not to drop out of the bottom and had a slight panic attack. Perhaps diet required??
Smeggles - 2nd dnf - 18/Apr/09 with Albatross Stu

My god. Tight squeeze, but hanging your rack from a sling on your belay loop helps!
stuartmunn - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Meg

adrianscott - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Ben Harding

tommytwotone - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09

SteveM - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/08 with Natalie Wilson

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Dec/08

Did the "exposed 'outside' exit" (apparently at HS 4a - Rockfax 2001) after downclimbing from the hole I couldn't fit my chest through.
tommcdonna - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Jonno Cox

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/08

Well I didn't enjoy the hole in the slightest, was like being born in reverse. Don't see how someone racked up and/or bigger than me could get through.
GuyVG - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/08

left out the hole, really don't want to get stuck!!! struggle to get all the gear back... VD n stanage guide
naine - Lead dnf - 03/May/08 with janina

Went through the hole at the top. Everyone else got wedged in, but I was too small and kept coming down! Glad I was on the rope.
tinyali - 2nd dog - 04/Apr/08 with Hannah Moulton

Hannah Moulton - Lead - 04/Apr/08 with tinyali

I can see why he struggled! Took an age to squeeze out the top as my chalk bag got stuck.
confusicating - Solo O/S - Feb/08

Hannah Moulton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/07

my ribs/manboobs made this one a physical impossibility. bloody orible!
howlingbaboon - 2nd dnf - 22/Sep/07 with Chris FitzHugh

danm - Solo - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

duzinga - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Alex Twist

Graeme placed all the rack- to make my exit a bitch!
Twisty - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Graeme Hammond

The finish took about 20mins to get through, and involved de-racking everything to squeeze past after about 15 attempts. Lots of scrapes and scratches. Curiously good fun!
hcooper - Lead - 06/Jun/07 with Jennifer Adcott

Note to self: I do not fit through the rat hole.
popebenedictus - AltLd RP - 07/May/07 with Ruth Harding

Powder Puff Girl - TR O/S - 07/May/07 with Ben H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

Jim Vach - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Duncan I - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/06

freakeystyley34 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Rampikino - Lead - 17/Sep/06 with Cat

spbond - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/06 with Mark Stitson

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 13/Sep/06 with Steve Bond

Silly route.
apeman241 - 2nd dnf - 15/Jul/06

gibbo38 - Lead - 03/Jun/06 with brian

In (meticulously cleaned) trainers.
Paz - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with CC2

Took the outside route for a change
Tobias at Home - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/05 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 29/Oct/05 with Tobs

Nicos - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/05 with solo

HaHaHaHaHa Glad im thin!!
loonyclimber - Lead O/S - Sep/05

SMc - Jun/05 with Anne

Wil Treasure - Lead - 2005

awkward you just gotta go for it even tho you feel like your about to fall out, helmets dont fit through
Alex Mason - Lead - Oct/04 with rob lonsdale

Outside exit
cem - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Rod Strachan

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/04

ChrisJD - Lead - 20/May/04 with Clare

Toreador - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/04 with Carmen

Phil West - 2nd - 27/Mar/04 with David Atherton

Chris was too fat to follow!
Phil West - Lead - 06/Mar/04 with Chris Tan

Jez - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/03

Didn't fit through the hole!
zcapxa5 - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/03 with Ted

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/03

Hidden - 14/Jul/03

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 29/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with Reuben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/03

Hidden - Solo - Sep/02

A Crook - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/02 with Pat Boothman

PenJD - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/02 with Jim and Matt

Hidden - 2002

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/01

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 12/May/01 with Keith Shaw, Richard Tomlinson

Rock Fairy - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jul/99

craig h - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/98 with Luke Steer

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 1998 with Paul Hennelly

Brazzer - 2nd O/S - Aug/95 with Ben Tufnell

did outside route
Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/95 with Andy Symonds

chris d williams - Lead - 14/Jul/95 with Ian Archer

Hidden - Lead - 1995

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 1995 with chopper

Hidden - Solo - 14/Aug/93

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/90

Hidden - 15/Jan/89

Soloed 25/6/88.
Iain Thow - 2nd - 18/May/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

John Marsland - Solo - 24/May/86

First trip to Stanage, first climb...in retrospect, not perhaps the wisest choice!
Tony Buckley - Lead - Sep/85 with Steve Byatt

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/85

Andy Say - Lead - 1985

John Marsland - Solo - 15/Jul/84

Pete Pozman - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/83 with Garry Rushworth

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/82

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/80

Andy Fielding - Solo - 1980

babymoac - Solo - 1980

RichardMc - Lead - 16/Jul/77 with Harry Woodbridge

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

Nigel Bond - Lead - 03/Nov/74 with John

rogerskews - 1973

Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/70 with Debbie Wilkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Joshh, Hidden, Diane, Hidden, Hidden, thedatastream, Hidden, Ragingpossum, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, johnnorley, b.hayley, Hidden, Hidden, neilfish

Voting
Total votes cast 83
hard S0 of 30
S0 of 30
easy S1 of 30
hard HVD1 of 30
HVD18 of 30
easy HVD1 of 30
hard VD9 of 30
VD0 of 30
easy VD0 of 30
hard 4b0 of 25
4b0 of 25
easy 4b0 of 25
hard 4a2 of 25
4a18 of 25
easy 4a4 of 25
hard 3c1 of 25
3c0 of 25
easy 3c0 of 25
3 Stars10 of 28
2 Stars10 of 28
1 Star6 of 28
0 Stars1 of 28
Bag of .....1 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed42 of 193 (21.8%)
Lead79 of 193 (40.9%)
Followed42 of 193 (21.8%)
Toproped7 of 193 (3.6%)
Alt Leads5 of 193 (2.6%)
Unknown18 of 193 (9.3%)

'Climbed'80 of 193 (41.5%)
clean O/S86 of 193 (44.6%)
clean β3 of 193 (1.6%)
clean rpt5 of 193 (2.6%)
clean RP1 of 193 (0.5%)
dogged4 of 193 (2.1%)
dnf14 of 193 (7.3%)