Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
White Wand*** E5 6a

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[white wand, 2 kb]22m. Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a traumatic layback leads to the halfway break. Finish more easily. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer.

Photo: white wand © efrance24234
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - Sep/13

Not a pure ascent. Melt-point. : )
miastacey - Lead RP - 19/Apr/13 with Bob Smith

bclifton - Lead RP - 17/Apr/13

with pads and a bit of snow
Harry Chaplin - Lead β - 16/Apr/13

snow, to ledge
ellis - Sent - 10/Apr/13 with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove

Hidden - 09/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo RP - 08/Apr/13

Above a diminishing snow platform, you can actually climb the crux now just.
Gus - Solo β - 07/Apr/13

mark20 - Sent β - 07/Apr/13

Snowball from crouch start, 2nd go after being way too casual first try. Traversed off at break.
AlistairB - Sent x - 07/Apr/13

snowball
John Roberts (JR) - Solo rpt - 07/Apr/13

Did the layback section to the break on the front face from a decent snow platform. Great climbing.
Obi-Wan is lost... - Solo - 07/Apr/13

Up down several times above a snowdrift
Brown - Solo - 06/Apr/13 with Solo

Done a couple of times over past few days with varying snow height.
Chris_barr - Sent β - 06/Apr/13 with Jon

Hidden - Sent x - 06/Apr/13

Snowball - silly miss start/slip first go, fine 2nd go, one pad folded in half on snow ledge so not the best landing. Snow low enough to start on the crux just.
Graeme Hammond - Sent x - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent x - 06/Apr/13

Snowballed. Bailed at the break
Jeronimo - Sent β - 06/Apr/13

above snow
soph - Sent O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Katie Maxwell, John McCune

Just low arete with snow and pads. Will be back one day for the top bit.
Joe Costello - Sent O/S - 04/Apr/13

Snowball from the crux to the break. Snow several feet deep, so totally safe.
Si dH - Sent O/S - 04/Apr/13

Snowball
highrepute - Sent O/S - 04/Apr/13

snowballed
birdie1989 - Sent - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent O/S - 01/Apr/13

Snowballed. The platform is burying the crux I think so quite an easy romp up the very top of the arete.
Will Hunt - 31/Mar/13 with James Williamson, Luke Donaldson

Snowball above crux
Will Sheaff - Solo dnf - 31/Mar/13

Above a lot of snow!!!
belay bunny turned bad - Sent - 31/Mar/13 with will

highball to the break, traversed off then up fairy steps, didn't fancy the E1 on solo so will be back with a rope. Serious feet sketch on top Arete. no snow but lots of pads
GuyVG - Sent β - 02/Dec/12 with crew

So cool. Highball 6B with lots of pads. Didn't do upper arete.
al123 - Solo - 02/Dec/12

commited to right foot smeared but didnt commit to left hand up. Maybe next time with more pads or maybe just top rope it.
Ed Booth - Solo dnf - 16/Jan/12 with Fennerz

akhughes - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11

Short technical move to get into layback position.
Jonas Paulsson - TR β - 03/Mar/11

With pads this time. Crux felt much steadier, but top arete felt just as nervy as last time
Mike Goldthorp - Solo rpt - 02/Mar/11 with Steve Ramsden

Puntered the foot sequence on the crux first go. Got it next try after Mike's demo. Quite nervy going all the way to the top.
Ram MkiV - Solo - 02/Mar/11 with Mike G

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/11 with rob lay

Didn't feel like committing today. Looks like once you put foot up and go for pinch of arete and pebble, it's a one way ticket. Will do another day...
Ed Booth - Solo dnf - 14/Feb/11

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/11

harvie - Solo - 08/Feb/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Nov/10

pipof747 - Lead RP - 05/Oct/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 06/Apr/10

4* line. Had a super good weekend capped with a padless ascent of this, love the grit!
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 14/Mar/10

bigie bob - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/10

Boy - 30/Jan/10 with Si Wilson, James McCaffie, Nige Kershaw

Onsight soloed years ago above a beer towel but great to do it again above a load of mats.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Ryan Pasquill

Hidden - Dec/09

switch - Solo rpt - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - Solo dnf - 06/Dec/08

Andrew Jennings - Sent β - Dec/08 with Jon Fullwood, Nige

masa-alpin - TR dog - 26/Oct/08 with Claudia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Oct/07

Kyuzo - Lead RP - 22/Oct/07 with Hal Watts

MYSSAK - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/07

redjerry - Solo - May/07

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Nov/06

Hidden - Solo RP - Nov/05

Soloed above 1 mat.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo O/S - 2005 with Basher Atkinson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2005

Davros the Psyched - Solo O/S - 2004

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001 with ciaran troup, Aide Jebb, nick warren

sadams - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/00

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/97

no pads
switch - Solo β - 1997

Hidden - Solo RP - Apr/95

Pre-mats: rucksac and a Zippy.
Jon Read - Solo RP - Apr/93 with Zippy

Climbed up and down the start a couple of times to feel the holds and then went for it!
phardman - Solo O/S - 1992 with Bill McKee

mik1miller - TR - 1989 with derek johnson

led then soloed
Mike Owen - 02/Jun/88 with Elaine Owen

Set off to lead it but bottled it! Easy on a top-rope.
Dave Musgrove - TR - 28/Dec/85 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 1985

andy gittins - TR rpt - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ewano, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Toph, marclloyd77, richiebongo, Rowansb, MorganPreece, Robert Besford, craig d, Hidden, timo.t, tatz45, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 41
hard E60 of 13
E60 of 13
easy E60 of 13
hard E51 of 13
E512 of 13
easy E50 of 13
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E40 of 13
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
hard 6a1 of 14
6a13 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
3 Stars12 of 14
2 Stars2 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed29 of 71 (40.8%)
Lead12 of 71 (16.9%)
Followed1 of 71 (1.4%)
Toproped7 of 71 (9.9%)
Bouldered17 of 71 (23.9%)
Unknown5 of 71 (7.0%)

'Climbed'18 of 71 (25.4%)
clean O/S20 of 71 (28.2%)
clean β10 of 71 (14.1%)
clean rpt5 of 71 (7.0%)
clean RP12 of 71 (16.9%)
dogged2 of 71 (2.8%)
dnf4 of 71 (5.6%)