Rockfax Description
Climb the crack in the left edge arete of the buttress then hand-traverse the lowest break. Climb the tricky blunt arete. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

ChrisBrooke 01/Nov Lead rpt

Not as easy as I remembered, but still easy. Really fun route with a couple of nice mantles up the arete.

with Duncan Bell
luke glaister 01/Nov Lead dnf

My first dnf. It was the first of the day but don't think after a warm up I'd of got it. Travers and first mantel were fine. It's standing up from the next break. I had a pinch which was next to the flake. But as I started to stand it was no good and off I was. Great gear so u have to go for it. Had 4 goes but couldn't get it. Gutted. First route that's stopped me. Will definitely be back...

Hidden 31/Oct Lead
Hidden 04/Oct 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Oct Lead
with David Smart
Andrew Barker 30/Sep Solo O/S

Nice consolation after failing on Brad Pit again.

Hidden 29/Aug Lead O/S
dashed 15/Aug Lead
legbitme 15/Aug Lead dnf

Got a wee bit scared on top section and bailed . HOWEVER repeated on second no probs . nice route. one to re-climb me thinks

with Keith Hague
legbitme 15/Aug 2nd
with Keith Hague
Guy Atkinson 18/Jul Lead O/S

This route scared the crap out of me....

with Tom Butterworth
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
Clama 30/May 2nd dog
with Krzysztof
Phil West 23/May 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan
Estelles 23/May Lead
Hidden 16/May Lead O/S
adi bryant 07/May Lead O/S
phil64 19/Apr Lead rpt

maybe done in my youth but great rte

with phil baker
islandlynx 18/Apr Lead β

In mats gear

Matt77 18/Apr Lead dog

Annoyed to have blown the first mantel. Shouldn't have rushed it! The next section took some working out but I managed to get it clean. Will come back and do it in a oner.

with Shane
Mike505 06/Apr Lead dnf

Got the traverse, wasted too much time placing gear and pumped out while trying to mantle/ rock over up to the break.

with Henry
Hidden 21/Mar Lead dog
Hidden 21/Mar 2nd β
Hidden ??/2015 2nd O/S
Neil R 06/Dec/14 2nd


with Tim
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 05/Nov/14 Lead rpt
the power 05/Nov/14 2nd
with rob
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
budchawla 18/Oct/14 2nd β
jon22 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Neil Griffith
Andy Peak 1 03/Oct/14 Lead

Super sport

Paul Hy 02/Oct/14 Lead dnf
with Phil T
the power 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Alex@home 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
fifth 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard move in the middle, climbed up to it twice before committing

with Max
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead
planetmarshall 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Helen Mort
Duncan Campbell 09/Aug/14 Lead β

Took over from Bubbles so had the gear in. glad as couldnt reach the second break with my feet in last but could clip Bubbles' gear!

with Bubbles
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
petegruf 04/Aug/14 Lead dnf
with jon c
g1m147 27/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
max_chan 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
apw 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Matthew Fennelow
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
gavinpeach 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Really nice varied route. The crux is rocking over onto the first break. There is some really nice climbing on the arete after this.

with Andy
andy.smythe 26/May/14 2nd
j.buckley87 02/May/14 2nd O/S
Budge 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with James from the Club, Ade
gmatthew 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ralphio 13/Apr/14 2nd

One really tenuous move. Had to sit on the rope once.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 13/Apr/14 Lead

Very poor lead!!

with Rosie, Ralph
dr_botnik 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S

pretty burly traverse into technical, balancy climbing

the power 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Realy good

with Andy, rob
rurp 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Tricky to stand in the second break, nice rock good gear

with bill farmer
ash longreach ?/Mar/14 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
bwestwood 20/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Gudge 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Binder 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pretty scary rockovers!

with Rich H
Chris Craggs 02/Aug/13 2nd

Pumpy traverse, but crux is high step/pull to 2nd break - neat.

with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
ashtond6 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

e1- 2+ 5b moves

Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Fragmod 18/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Colin Scotchford 12/May/13 Lead
John Nuttall 01/May/13 Lead
with Coel
Guy Wilson 26/Apr/13 -
with Plum, Gavin Moy
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead
cragtyke 20/Apr/13 2nd
with john g
Whealiebob 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Terry
Milne 05/Mar/13 2nd rpt
with Dave
john lynch 15/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Joe Holden, ed luke
drsdave ??/2013 -
with Mat
drsdave ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/Dec/12 2nd rpt
jwpil 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
migs493 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

HVS Challenge - nice route

with LO
g1m147 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Mick.
Jimbo C 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Soft HVS for those over 6ft? or maybe I got lucky reading the sequences. Either way, a beautiful route with a nice traverse to get the pump going and superb technical moves on the arete.

with Chris, Spiros
Andrew Sloan 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 04/Oct/12 2nd
with Jim, Phil Evans
LakesWinter 29/Sep/12 Lead


with Dave
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Will Ward
Tamati 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Mattyk 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

great high step moves.

Wayne S 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Misha 02/Sep/12 2nd

Hard for HVS with several 5b moves and strenuous to traverse out and get onto the first break - E1? Good route.

with Ed
etrillaud 02/Sep/12 2nd β
eduardo 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great route!

with Misha
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 28/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Jamie
barni 25/Aug/12 TR O/S
hotfeet 25/Jul/12 2nd

Failed to lead, but seconded OK.

with Austen Moulding
Boy 17/Jul/12 Solo
disturbed_one51 19/Jun/12 Lead
with Sam Stringer
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead
Ewano 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Quite nice, maybe one tricky move at 5b then plain sailing.

pete1993 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 19/May/12 Lead O/S

a hand traverse and an arete - brilliant!

with Noel
deacondeacon 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 06/May/12 Lead

Magnificent. Traverse is great with the bonus jug. Had 2 goes at the crux using left foot up first technique. Full on 5b for me. Overall, height is probably an adavntage for this route although on the crux, I would have traded a couple of inches for some greater flexibility.

mtempest 06/May/12 2nd
Paul Hy 15/Apr/12 2nd

Very Hard!!!

with Damien K, Tony
tallsop 02/Apr/12 2nd
with terry
Milne 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

nice route.

Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
Coel Hellier 01/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
ChrisBrooke 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Found this rather easy and enjoyable.

with James Linford
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
drsdave ??/2012 -
with Mat
JamieSparkes 12/Nov/11 2nd rpt
Roberttaylor 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

A superb and strange route. Of the two ways I have seen the crux climbed (foot up left or right) I think my way was harder.

James Oswald 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S

really good, fairly tough. traverse is tricky until you find the jug

Hardonicus 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Stiff, solid but bomber gear.

with nick a
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Tobias at Home 15/Oct/11 -
with SteveM
SteveM 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Tobs
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
missxandrabee 28/Sep/11 2nd dog
with ian d f
ian d f 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Xandra
chrisbussell 20/Sep/11 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
rich_hw 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 01/Sep/11 2nd rpt
gavster2405 ?/Sep/11 -
David Kay 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Mynydd C.C.
max_chan 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
gordonday 30/Jun/11 2nd RP
with clive
Alison2 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Doug, Nick
Nick1812P 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Jim Malo 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 19/Jun/11 Lead dog

Tough crux move, dropped on to rope first attempt.

robman 31/May/11 2nd O/S
mark20 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Rafael Pena
Gustav 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James H
Goose4 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sam Davis, Tom Adams
masa-alpin 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

I thought it was worth E1 5c, but Jo did in seconding the crux move with a very different sequence from me, which looked easier - possibly I have just missed the right move!

with Jo B, Michelle A
paul79 26/Mar/11 Lead
gazfellows 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

really good climbing, probably worth 3 stars

with shaun d
petellis 26/Feb/11 2nd rpt
etrillaud 26/Feb/11 Lead
with Pete
Mowglee 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead β
with Tim Culwick
Sam1991 06/Nov/10 Lead dog

Fell twice on same move, standing on second break is hard, dead safe though.

with Andy J
bigdrew 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 TR dog
Martin Haworth 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Pete Harris
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/10 -
Pilch 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

every move was harder than the last, exciting at the top, felt quite pushy for the grade -E1 maybe

with Helen
fatbuoybazza 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with daveyw
ClaireS 12/Sep/10 2nd
gethin_allen 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
adam carless 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Also seconded by Claire and Dan. Great moves, although lots of faffing, flexibility and grunting was required to get stood in the second break.

with scc
Leelogs 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
tri-nitro-toulumne 31/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Fred Yong
James Moyle 25/Jul/10 -
petellis 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 28/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/10 -
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Tez29 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mousey
pebbles 21/May/10 Lead dog

one fall

katherinesydney 08/May/10 2nd dog

found this one really hard. arrived at the top in quite a bad mood!

with gary burgess
steve_biczyk 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Gazzawatson ??/2010 Lead
with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
hrgcb 24/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead dnf
AJ007 20/Sep/09 2nd
dan gibson 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
Jon Dittman 13/Sep/09 Lead

A good route. Have done easier E1s though. It must be a struggle if you are short. I could only just reach the second break from the first. Tip top.

Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Mr Sparkle 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Shad ?/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
leon 16/Aug/09 Lead

tried this years ago and failed to do the crux. this time i found it reasonable & it didn't beat me. was surprised that ste found standing on the lower break harder than getting established on the second break.

with Steven Davidson
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
daveclarke5 12/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Andy
ebf 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Entertaining for HVS; could easily be graded E1.

Hidden 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
bullwinkle 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with John
mattwyles1 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/09 TR
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead O/S
Lewis Andrew 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Fred Prall
stuartberg 30/Apr/09 TR O/S

great once you get out the start

LakesWinter 14/Apr/09 2nd
with Cake
Cake 14/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Sankey 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Luke
daveagriff 31/Mar/09 Lead
hembug 31/Mar/09 2nd dog
with dave
tatz45 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Morgan
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
catt 15/Mar/09 2nd rpt

Dangled to get Steve's stuck cams out.

with Steve M
Shauna 15/Mar/09 2nd dog

err, embarrassing to fall off this as I previously led it clean. I blame my freezing cold hands!

with Steve
SteveM 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Iain and Catt
Harry Thorpe 04/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Kieran
galpinos 21/Feb/09 2nd rpt
with Ben
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
benkelsey ??/2009 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
john lynch 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd
Shauna 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S

This is a quality route.

Julesthe1st 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Ed
PenJD 02/Aug/08 Lead
with Si K and Craig D
catt 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Everythings there when you want it.

with Shauna
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Brown 04/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with John
Matthallinan 14/May/08 Lead
with Nicky Winn
Castleclimber 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Daniel Leite
galpinos 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
Rob Davies ?/May/08 2nd
Jim Slater 30/Mar/08 2nd dog

Couple of tricky moves. Tough going for me.

DavidR 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/08 2nd dog
Dan 85 26/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Nicos
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
craig d ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Owen W-G 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Quite a good little route, worth seeking out.

with Robin
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Alfredo ?/Oct/07 Lead
with Steve
Monk 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Simon
edmitchell 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with steven elson
antpayne2003 ?/Sep/07 Lead dnf
danm ?/Aug/07 Lead
bullwinkle 22/May/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Jim Vach 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Dorsett
dannyboy83 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Cole
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Oceanic ?/Mar/07 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Andrew Sloan 27/Dec/06 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
mattpw ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead
markhilton 23/Sep/06 2nd

1st climb outdoors

stuart100 09/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Ian Brown
Stig 30/Aug/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Si dH 10/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Jack Symmons ?/Jul/06 Lead
with Nina
Hidden 20/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Stig 04/May/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
MeMeMe 15/Apr/06 Lead β

Climbed clean after backing off it much the same time last year.

with Andy
007 big d ??/2006 Lead
with mark
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Tobias at Home 29/Oct/05 Lead rpt

Had seconded a couple of years ago with Keith. Nice moves.

with SteveM
SteveM 29/Oct/05 2nd
with Tobs
Hidden 24/Sep/05 TR
mike bridges 24/Sep/05 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/05 Lead
reg_measures 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
John Marsland 23/Apr/05 2nd
with Darrell Small
cem 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Pete Atkinson
darren1 27/Nov/04 -
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd
mel holmes 18/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd O/S
kp64zl ?/Apr/03 2nd
shoulders 23/Mar/03 Lead
with paul
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
A Crook 11/Jul/02 2nd
with Pat Boothman
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Ropeboy 05/Jun/01 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jun/01 2nd
with Simon M
chris sm 19/May/01 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden 07/May/01 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead
skygodley 13/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Julia Bodle
Hidden 19/Mar/00 2nd
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/99 Lead O/S
BlueJohn 13/Jun/99 2nd
with Dieago
Spillers ?/May/99 Lead
Coel Hellier ??/1999 -
craig h 21/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Luke Steer
Phil West 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
r0b 30/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Ian Huyton
JonBray ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/96 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/96 2nd
with Geoff Haigh
rob.grafton 05/May/96 2nd
with Paul McCann, Bruce
Hidden 15/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/95 2nd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
leathers ??/1995 2nd
with Ian Hirst
nai ??/1995 Solo
Hidden 16/Oct/94 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 05/Aug/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Hidden 25/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Podling ?/Jul/93 Lead
Chris Reid ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/93 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1993 -
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/91 2nd
with Bill G
NickJH ?/May/91 Lead O/S
with RParry
rob.grafton 14/Oct/90 2nd
with Bruce
Neil R 24/Jul/90 Lead
with Richard W
Andy Say 03/Jul/90 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/90 2nd
RichardMc 23/Jul/89 Lead
with Sukh Randhana
John Marsland 26/Apr/89 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
goi.ashmore 03/May/88 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Paul L
Dave Musgrove 28/Dec/85 -
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24/Apr/85 Solo
Hidden 19/May/84 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/83 Lead
andy gittins ??/1982 -
RichardMc 16/Jul/77 Lead
with Harry Woodbridge
Chris Terrey ??/1977 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
rogerskews ??/1973 -
Hidden 08/May/65 TR
Hidden 03/Apr/65 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
the power, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, johnpr, Chi Cheng, prinny, elson, Hidden, Mike H
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 85
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 78
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set