Fina** HVS 5b
[After around 5 years of trying and 1 grasp but no top-out (due to snow on top) I finally pulled over the top. , 2 kb]16m. Climb the crack in the left edge of the buttress then hand traverse the lowest break. Climb the tricky blunt arete. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Parker 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: After around 5 years of trying and 1 grasp but no top-out (due to snow on top) I finally pulled over the top. © John Roberts
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 326 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

budchawla - 2nd β - 18/Oct/14 with Justin Rennie

jon22 - 2nd - 05/Oct/14 with Neil Griffith

Super sport
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Oct/14

Paul Hy - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/14 with Phil T

the power - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/14 with Andy, Paul Hy

Hidden - 08/Sep/14

Hidden - 08/Sep/14

Alex@home - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/14 with The Doctor

Hard move in the middle, climbed up to it twice before committing
fifth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Max

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/14

planetmarshall - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14 with Helen Mort

Took over from Bubbles so had the gear in. glad as couldnt reach the second break with my feet in last but could clip Bubbles' gear!
Duncan Campbell - Lead β - 09/Aug/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14

petegruf - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/14 with jon c

g1m147 - Lead - 27/Jul/14 with SCrossley

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/14

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Pete Wimbush

apw - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Matthew Fennelow

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14

Really nice varied route. The crux is rocking over onto the first break. There is some really nice climbing on the arete after this.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Andy

andy.smythe - 2nd - 26/May/14

j.buckley87 - 2nd O/S - 02/May/14

Budge - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with James from the Club, Ade

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

One really tenuous move. Had to sit on the rope once.
ralphio - 2nd - 13/Apr/14

Very poor lead!!
buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 13/Apr/14

pretty burly traverse into technical, balancy climbing
dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Andy, Phil Taylor

Realy good
the power - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Andy, rob

Tricky to stand in the second break, nice rock good gear
rurp - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/14 with bill farmer

ash longreach - Lead - Mar/14 with Chris Hind

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

bwestwood - Lead - 20/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/13

Gudge - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Jon Stewart

Pretty scary rockovers!
Binder - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Rich H

Pumpy traverse, but crux is high step/pull to 2nd break - neat.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 02/Aug/13 with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/13

e1- 2+ 5b moves
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/13

Fragmod - Lead - 18/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 12/May/13

John Nuttall - Lead - 01/May/13 with Coel

Guy Wilson - 26/Apr/13 with Plum, Gavin Moy

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/13

cragtyke - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with john g

Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/13 with Terry

Milne - 2nd rpt - 05/Mar/13 with Dave

john lynch - 2nd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with Joe Holden, ed luke

drsdave - 2013 with Mat

drsdave - 2013

slacky - 2nd rpt - 27/Dec/12 with Michael Ghyoot

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/12 with Deacon

HVS Challenge - nice route
migs493 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with LO

g1m147 - 2nd - 14/Oct/12 with Mick.

Soft HVS for those over 6ft? or maybe I got lucky reading the sequences. Either way, a beautiful route with a nice traverse to get the pump going and superb technical moves on the arete.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Chris, Spiros

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Martin Haworth

rob.grafton - 2nd - 04/Oct/12 with Jim, Phil Evans

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 15/Sep/12 with Will Ward

Tamati - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

great high step moves.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Jamie Moss

Wayne S - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12

Hard for HVS with several 5b moves and strenuous to traverse out and get onto the first break - E1? Good route.
Misha - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Ed

etrillaud - 2nd β - 02/Sep/12

Great route!
eduardo - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Misha

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/12 with Andy Winter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Jamie

barni - TR O/S - 25/Aug/12

Failed to lead, but seconded OK.
hotfeet - 2nd - 25/Jul/12 with Austen Moulding

Boy - Solo - 17/Jul/12

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 19/Jun/12 with Sam Stringer

Long arms useful - as always!
JohnHutch - Lead - 11/Jun/12 with Nik H

Quite nice, maybe one tricky move at 5b then plain sailing.
Ewano - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Pete Briggs

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Ewan Prior

Stayed on arete stepping up into second break with right foot, others were slightly left and stepped up with left foot and found it slightly easier.
slacky - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

a hand traverse and an arete - brilliant!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Noel

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

Magnificent. Traverse is great with the bonus jug. Had 2 goes at the crux using left foot up first technique. Full on 5b for me. Overall, height is probably an adavntage for this route although on the crux, I would have traded a couple of inches for some greater flexibility.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 06/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/12

Very Hard!!!
Paul Hy - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Damien K, Tony

tallsop - 2nd - 02/Apr/12 with terry

nice route.
Milne - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with tom allsop

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Found this rather easy and enjoyable.
ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with James Linford

Tony Kartawick - 2012

drsdave - 2012 with Mat

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 12/Nov/11 with Robert Taylor

A superb and strange route. Of the two ways I have seen the crux climbed (foot up left or right) I think my way was harder.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Jamie Sparkes

really good, fairly tough. traverse is tricky until you find the jug
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Jon Stewart

Stiff, solid but bomber gear.
Hardonicus - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with nick a

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11

Tobias at Home - 15/Oct/11 with SteveM

SteveM - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Tobs

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

missxandrabee - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/11 with ian d f

ian d f - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Xandra

chrisbussell - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Tim O'Neill

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Graeme Hammond

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/11 with Richard Williams

gavster2405 - Sep/11

David Kay - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Mynydd C.C.

max_chan - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Trevor Wilson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

gordonday - 2nd RP - 30/Jun/11 with clive

Alison2 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with matthew154

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Doug, Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Jamie

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Tim

Tough crux move, dropped on to rope first attempt.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 19/Jun/11 with Alan

robman - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

mark20 - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

Will_Maxwell - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Rafael Pena

Gustav - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with James H

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11 with Sam Davis, Tom Adams

I thought it was worth E1 5c, but Jo did in seconding the crux move with a very different sequence from me, which looked easier - possibly I have just missed the right move!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Jo B, Michelle A

paul79 - Lead - 26/Mar/11

really good climbing, probably worth 3 stars
gazfellows - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with shaun d

petellis - 2nd rpt - 26/Feb/11 with Emmanuel

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Tom Nichols

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

stevorobs3 - Lead β - 2011 with Tim Culwick

Fell twice on same move, standing on second break is hard, dead safe though.
Sam1991 - Lead dog - 06/Nov/10 with Andy J

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Sam Dixon

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Oct/10

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10 with Pete Harris

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - 13/Oct/10

every move was harder than the last, exciting at the top, felt quite pushy for the grade -E1 maybe
Pilch - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Helen

Brilliant..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with daveyw

ClaireS - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with Matt Reynolds

gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/10

Also seconded by Claire and Dan. Great moves, although lots of faffing, flexibility and grunting was required to get stood in the second break.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with scc

Leelogs - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/10 with adam carless, SCC

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead dog - 31/Jul/10 with Fred Yong

James Moyle - 25/Jul/10

petellis - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with mattyork2

mattyork2 - 2nd - 28/Jun/10 with Pete Ellis

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 12/Jun/10

slacky - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

Tez29 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Mousey

one fall
pebbles - Lead dog - 21/May/10

found this one really hard. arrived at the top in quite a bad mood!
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 08/May/10 with gary burgess

steve_biczyk - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Emma

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

Gazzawatson - Lead - 2010 with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

hrgcb - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with AJ

A good route. Have done easier E1s though. It must be a struggle if you are short. I could only just reach the second break from the first. Tip top.
Jon Dittman - Lead - 13/Sep/09

wolverine - 13/Sep/09 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Mike Hayes

Shad - 2nd - Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with mel holmes

tried this years ago and failed to do the crux. this time i found it reasonable & it didn't beat me. was surprised that ste found standing on the lower break harder than getting established on the second break.
leon - Lead - 16/Aug/09 with Steven Davidson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Guy Reid

PaulHermes - 2nd - 12/Jul/09 with Stewart VCCC

PaulHermes - 2nd - 12/Jul/09 with Stewart VCCC

daveclarke5 - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/09 with Andy

Entertaining for HVS; could easily be graded E1.
ebf - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Paul Hermes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/09

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/09 with John

mattwyles1 - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Iain Mount

JohnHutch - TR - 28/May/09 with L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/09

Lewis Andrew - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Fred Prall

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/09

Cake - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Matt

Sankey - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Luke

great once you get out the start
stuartberg - TR O/S - 01/Apr/09

daveagriff - Lead - 31/Mar/09 with Tom Hemmings

hembug - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/09 with dave

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Pete Morgan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Dangled to get Steve's stuck cams out.
catt - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/09 with Steve M

err, embarrassing to fall off this as I previously led it clean. I blame my freezing cold hands!
Shauna - 2nd dog - 15/Mar/09 with Steve

SteveM - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Iain and Catt

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/09 with Kieran

galpinos - 2nd rpt - 21/Feb/09 with Ben

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

benkelsey - Lead dnf - 2009 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/08

john lynch - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/08

This is a quality route.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/08 with Nigel Patching

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Ed

PenJD - Lead - 02/Aug/08 with Si K and Craig D

Brilliant. Everythings there when you want it.
catt - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Shauna

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Brown - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with John

Matthallinan - Lead - 14/May/08 with Nicky Winn

Castleclimber - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Daniel Leite

galpinos - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark

Couple of tricky moves. Tough going for me.
Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/08 with Phil

DavidR - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/08

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/08 with Nicos

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

craig d - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Quite a good little route, worth seeking out.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Robin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/07

Alfredo - Lead - Oct/07 with Steve

Monk - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Simon

edmitchell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with steven elson

antpayne2003 - Lead dnf - Sep/07

danm - Lead - Aug/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 22/May/07 with Paul

Jim Vach - Lead O/S - 12/May/07 with Tim Dorsett

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Ben Cole

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Oceanic - Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Duncan I - 2007

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 27/Dec/06

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Dec/06 with Andy

mattpw - Lead O/S - Nov/06

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/06

1st climb outdoors
markhilton - 2nd - 23/Sep/06

stuart100 - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/06 with Ian Brown

Stig - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/06 with Neil Furniss

Jack Symmons - Lead - Jul/06 with Nina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 04/May/06 with Chris

Climbed clean after backing off it much the same time last year.
MeMeMe - Lead β - 15/Apr/06 with Andy

007 big d - Lead - 2006 with mark

ArnaudG - 2006

Had seconded a couple of years ago with Keith. Nice moves.
Tobias at Home - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/05 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 29/Oct/05 with Tobs

Hidden - TR - 24/Sep/05

mike bridges - TR O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Robert Bridges

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/05

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/05 with steve burdett

John Marsland - 2nd - 23/Apr/05 with Darrell Small

cem - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/05 with Pete Atkinson

darren1 - 27/Nov/04

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/04

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/03

mel holmes - Lead - 18/Apr/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/03

kp64zl - 2nd - Apr/03

shoulders - Lead - 23/Mar/03 with paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

A Crook - 2nd - 11/Jul/02 with Pat Boothman

Jon Greengrass - 2002

Ropeboy - Lead - 05/Jun/01

kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/01 with Simon M

chris sm - Lead O/S - 19/May/01 with Dom Goodridge

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/01

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/00

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/99

BlueJohn - 2nd - 13/Jun/99 with Dieago

Spillers - Lead - May/99

Coel Hellier - 1999

craig h - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/98 with Luke Steer

Phil West - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/97 with David Atherton

r0b - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/97 with Ian Huyton

JonBray - Lead O/S - 1997

ChrisJD - Lead - 05/Oct/96 with PaulOr

Rog Wilko - 2nd - Oct/96 with Geoff Haigh

rob.grafton - 2nd - 05/May/96 with Paul McCann, Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/95

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Mar/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

leathers - 2nd - 1995 with Ian Hirst

Hidden - Solo - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/94

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/94 with Rachel Nicolson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/93

Podling - Lead - Jul/93

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Jun/93

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/93

NeilGriffiths - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/91

Chris the Tall - 2nd - May/91 with Bill G

NickJH - Lead O/S - May/91 with RParry

rob.grafton - 2nd - 14/Oct/90 with Bruce

Neil R - Lead - 24/Jul/90 with Richard W

Andy Say - Solo - 03/Jul/90

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/90

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/90

John Marsland - 2nd - 26/Apr/89 with Neil Bulloch

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 03/May/88

steve prior - Lead - Sep/86 with Paul L

Dave Musgrove - 28/Dec/85 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Solo - 24/Apr/85

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/84

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/83

andy gittins - 1982

RichardMc - Lead - 16/Jul/77 with Harry Woodbridge

rogerskews - 1973

Hidden - TR - 08/May/65

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/65

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
the power, johnpr, Chi Cheng, prinny, elson, Mike H

Voting
Total votes cast 224
hard E10 of 77
E10 of 77
easy E111 of 77
hard HVS40 of 77
HVS23 of 77
easy HVS3 of 77
hard VS0 of 77
VS0 of 77
easy VS0 of 77
hard 5c0 of 75
5c0 of 75
easy 5c4 of 75
hard 5b27 of 75
5b38 of 75
easy 5b5 of 75
hard 5a0 of 75
5a1 of 75
easy 5a0 of 75
3 Stars12 of 72
2 Stars57 of 72
1 Star2 of 72
0 Stars1 of 72
Bag of .....0 of 72
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf