Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Tower Crack** HVS 5a

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[tower crack stanage, 2 kb]24m. A cracking jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull onto the ledge is tricky. Up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to the ledge above Tower Face. Miserable Miracle is a good finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1950-51

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

Photo: tower crack stanage © gethin_allen
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 81 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/14

Should've tried harder but didn't want to destroy myself before The Strangler.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd dog - 03/May/14 with Ash

One of the best hard and safe. The wet foot hold only ads to the fun:-) joe was truly the master:-)1950
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 15/Apr/14 with Andrew Deckon

dr_botnik - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/14 with Andy, deacon

gear in place
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Debbie B

Really hard work, but somehow got there in the end. Strenuous bridging and difficult to work out what to do.
cameron_hall - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/13 with Lee Hermon

bloody hard and my first lead fall. Nice one Joe!
leeoftroy - Lead dog - Sep/13

Returned to try again. Worked out a way to jam myself in and take a much needed rest before the crux move that pulls you out of the crack. So so happy to get this one clean. The missing skin on my left hand acting as a nice reminder. One of the best! :-)
leeoftroy - Lead RP - Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/May/13

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 15/Sep/12 with Will Ward

I had to second this wearing one trainer and one climbing shoe due to a stubbed toe. Nails!
roberto18 - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Tom Nickols

Boy - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Jon Coe

just had to hold onto that wire for a second. nice one.
farkas.time - Lead dog - 29/Jul/12

One of the best routes on stanage awesome bridging awesome jamming!
Sam Simpson - 2nd - 24/May/12 with Tom Dolden

hardest hvs ive ever tried
Tom Doldon - Lead dnf - 24/May/12 with sam simpson 48

thought this was going to be a real struggle but turned out to be mostly very pleasant bridging with one slightly tougher move to exit the crack
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 14/May/12 with The Doctor

..well almost..rested on rope at top of crack.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 14/Jun/11 with James

CRiddiford - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with Paul L

JRae - Lead - 03/Jun/11 with M Scott

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 16/Apr/11

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Good tough HVS crack climbing. Starting the final traverse gives a bit of a sting in the tail too.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Neil Furniss

Fell at the break in the crack on the central section.
clukins - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/10 with Adam Billing, Steve Holland

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

brilliant bridging moves followed by some tough jamming to reach the ledge (got to be 5b!), brutal but essential Stanage tick and hard at HVS!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with andrea83

Absolute hell. Couldn't finish. A mans route for sure. Note to self never try again!
andrea83 - 2nd dnf - 02/Aug/10 with Graeme Hammond

Solid crux
Cake - Lead dnf - 19/Jul/10 with Angus

ed edwards - Lead O/S - May/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

Jim Slater - Lead dog - 27/Sep/09 with Eric, Mark Mercer

Highly amusing
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Arnaud Garcon

Spicy!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Guy Reid

yikes. wild. scary. pumpy. fierce. brutal.
nicnic - Lead - 25/May/09 with Jon Youles

Hidden - Lead - 18/Oct/08

Quite thuggy but bridging helped, reachy commiting move to platform, very pleased to get it.
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with John Rushby

jw231 - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/08 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

My jamming education continues.
Shauna - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/08 with Steve

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jun/08

Brown - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08

who needs skin on their hands anyhow?
gethin_allen - 2nd - Jun/08 with neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

TomHaigh - Lead dnf - 14/May/08 with Doug

Wouldn't usually log dnf, but got all the way up the jamming crack, but couldn't make the rightwards move onto the face due to the gale that was coming from the other side!!
Dan 85 - Lead dnf - 26/Feb/08 with Nicos

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/07

shoulders - Lead - 04/Aug/07

JPGR - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with Daniel

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/07 with jon redshaw

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Duncan I - 2007

Andy Chubb - 2nd - 09/Jun/06 with Steve Goodman

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/06

ArnaudG - 2006

Pete Graham - Lead - 2006 with Jonny Reay

Nicos - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/05 with rich howels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/05

Hidden - 2002

kp64zl - 2nd - Jun/01 with Simon M

tlr - 2nd - 2000

dan gibson - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Simon Pearce - 1999

Roget - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/98

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 25/May/97 with Rob Clark

NeilGriffiths - 29/Apr/97 with Kerry

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 05/Sep/92 with Martin Veale

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/90

surfbish - Lead O/S - Jun/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Nigel Bond - Solo - 22/Jul/80

Felt tough, though it was graded VS then. Cold windy day - escaped to the shelter of Stoney.
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/77 with Jim Worthington

mikej - Lead - 07/Jun/69 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, johnpr, Steve Waters, Mynydd, ajc, Chi Cheng, ritid, Hidden, thinair48, Albie, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 96
hard E10 of 34
E10 of 34
easy E15 of 34
hard HVS24 of 34
HVS5 of 34
easy HVS0 of 34
hard VS0 of 34
VS0 of 34
easy VS0 of 34
hard 5b0 of 34
5b2 of 34
easy 5b24 of 34
hard 5a5 of 34
5a3 of 34
easy 5a0 of 34
hard 4c0 of 34
4c0 of 34
easy 4c0 of 34
3 Stars7 of 28
2 Stars17 of 28
1 Star4 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 81 (3.7%)
Lead45 of 81 (55.6%)
Followed20 of 81 (24.7%)
Unknown13 of 81 (16.0%)

'Climbed'39 of 81 (48.1%)
clean O/S19 of 81 (23.5%)
clean rpt3 of 81 (3.7%)
clean RP1 of 81 (1.2%)
dogged13 of 81 (16.0%)
dnf6 of 81 (7.4%)