24m.

Rockfax Description
A proper full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950-51

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 3 Star Stanage, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Brown & Whillans Stanage.


ClimberDateStyle
Cake 15/Oct Lead dnf

Two falls. Got head over the ledge and dropped. I had done 6 HVSs already, though. I can actually do this next time. Beast of a route!

with Matt
soph 30/Sep 2nd rpt
with Tom Le Fanu
James Oswald 11/Sep Lead O/S

Hard!

with Nigel
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Jul Lead O/S
druss 17/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 19/Jun Lead O/S
steve-grigg 15/May Lead dog
kyaizawa 07/May Lead O/S
with Beth Woodley, Bruce Woodley
chancer 07/May Lead dnf

I thought that I could jam. Now I know I can't.

with Marc Duhig
Bethwoodley 07/May 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 04/May Lead dog

Foiled again!

patrickcd 20/Apr Lead
with Ed
morganator 20/Apr Solo O/S
TomatoPro 05/Apr Lead β

Definitely E5 6a. A savage, strenuous climb for the hand jamming uninitiated. Amazing and sustained up the first part of the climb, and scary balancey stuff at the top, but all with good gear.

Dan Mckinlay ??/2016 Lead O/S
Droyd 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Gudge
Gudge 23/Oct/15 2nd dog

How embarrassing - must learn to jam!

Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Oct/15 Lead

Jamming gloves made this a really enjoyable and relatively pain free experience.

with David Smart
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd
TobyA 13/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Fell off trying to get on to the ledge. Felt really hard - significantly harder than various other grit HVSs I've done.

with Anni
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 05/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Jam jam jam

Kirill 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awkward jams, bridging on smears, steep.

with Kris Doggett, Colomban MacDowall
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Robaduck 23/May/15 Lead dog
Estelles 23/May/15 Lead dog
ashtond6 10/May/15 2nd rpt
adi bryant 07/May/15 AltLd RP
salix 02/May/15 2nd

In the rain, but still felt nails.

Hidden 24/Apr/15 Lead dog
bigdrew 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Reuben
ashtond6 27/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Undoubtedly 5b, really awesome moves. Way more thrutchy than it looks and quite sharp

Canyak ??/2015 -
Luke Dawson 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

a lot wet

with Mike Adams, Peter Dawson
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 12/Oct/14 2nd
Scott Anderson 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Max
Duncan Campbell 09/Aug/14 2nd

Not one for a hangover. Tasty crack climbing.

with Bubbles
Hidden 26/Jun/14 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/May/14 2nd dog

Should've tried harder but didn't want to destroy myself before The Strangler.

with Ash
Andy Peak 1 15/Apr/14 Lead

One of the best hard and safe. The wet foot hold only ads to the fun:-) joe was truly the master:-)1950

with Andrew Deckon
dr_botnik 15/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Andy, deacon
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hannes B 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

gear in place

with DebsB
cameron_hall 08/Sep/13 2nd dog

Really hard work, but somehow got there in the end. Strenuous bridging and difficult to work out what to do.

leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead dog

bloody hard and my first lead fall. Nice one Joe!

leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead RP

Returned to try again. Worked out a way to jam myself in and take a much needed rest before the crux move that pulls you out of the crack. So so happy to get this one clean. The missing skin on my left hand acting as a nice reminder. One of the best! :-)

tebs 10/May/13 2nd dog
with Burns
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Will Ward
roberto18 15/Sep/12 2nd

I had to second this wearing one trainer and one climbing shoe due to a stubbed toe. Nails!

with Tom Nickols
Boy 09/Sep/12 Lead
with Jon Coe
farkas.time 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

just had to hold onto that wire for a second. nice one.

Sam Simpson 24/May/12 2nd

One of the best routes on stanage awesome bridging awesome jamming!

Tom Doldon 24/May/12 Lead dnf

hardest hvs ive ever tried

with sam simpson 48
Alex@home 14/May/12 Lead O/S

thought this was going to be a real struggle but turned out to be mostly very pleasant bridging with one slightly tougher move to exit the crack

with The Doctor
Jim Slater 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

..well almost..rested on rope at top of crack.

CRiddiford 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Paul L
JRae 03/Jun/11 Lead
with M Scott
Anthony Dixon 16/Apr/11 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Si dH 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good tough HVS crack climbing. Starting the final traverse gives a bit of a sting in the tail too.

with Neil Furniss
clukins 05/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Fell at the break in the crack on the central section.

dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Graeme Hammond 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

brilliant bridging moves followed by some tough jamming to reach the ledge (got to be 5b!), brutal but essential Stanage tick and hard at HVS! Also 2nd with Jim 4/5/16 still hard work

andrea83 02/Aug/10 2nd dnf

Absolute hell. Couldn't finish. A mans route for sure. Note to self never try again!

Cake 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Solid crux

with Angus
ed edwards ?/May/10 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Jim Slater 27/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Eric, Mark Mercer
goi.ashmore 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Highly amusing

with Arnaud Garcon
Different Steve 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Spicy!

with Guy Reid
nicnic 25/May/09 Lead

yikes. wild. scary. pumpy. fierce. brutal.

with Jon Youles
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
RocknRoll 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Quite thuggy but bridging helped, reachy commiting move to platform, very pleased to get it.

with John Rushby
jw231 15/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Al Benson
al99 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
Shauna 07/Aug/08 2nd dog

My jamming education continues.

with Steve
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead dog
Brown 04/Jun/08 2nd O/S
gethin_allen ?/Jun/08 2nd

who needs skin on their hands anyhow?

with neil
OffshoreAndy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
TomHaigh 14/May/08 Lead dnf
with Doug
Dan 85 26/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Wouldn't usually log dnf, but got all the way up the jamming crack, but couldn't make the rightwards move onto the face due to the gale that was coming from the other side!!

with Nicos
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead dog
shoulders 04/Aug/07 Lead
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Daniel
dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with jon redshaw
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Andy Chubb 09/Jun/06 2nd
with Steve Goodman
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd dog
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Pete Graham ??/2006 Lead
with Jonny Reay
Nicos 18/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
kp64zl ?/Jun/01 2nd
with Simon M
tlr ??/2000 2nd
dan gibson ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Roget 25/Jun/98 Lead rpt
timreynolds 25/May/97 Lead O/S
with Rob Clark
NeilGriffiths 29/Apr/97 -
with Kerry
RossG123 ??/1997 Solo
rc ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Ellis 05/Sep/92 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden 16/Jun/90 2nd
surfbish ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 Lead

This used to be a very tough VS

Nigel Bond 22/Jul/80 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24/Apr/77 Lead

Felt tough, though it was graded VS then. Cold windy day - escaped to the shelter of Stoney.

with Jim Worthington
Chris Terrey ??/1977 Lead
with Ken Taylor
Martin Bennett 13/Nov/76 -
with JD
clanger ??/1972 -
mikej 07/Jun/69 Lead
with Geoff Williams
mikej 28/Aug/67 Lead dnf

A bit stiff for VS.

with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set