Rockfax Description
A proper full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950-51

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 04/Oct 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Oct Lead

Jamming gloves made this a really enjoyable and relatively pain free experience.

David Smart
Hidden 26/Sep 2nd
TobyA 13/Sep Lead dnf

Fell off trying to get on to the ledge. Felt really hard - significantly harder than various other grit HVSs I've done.

gavinpeach 23/Aug Lead rpt

Great climbing throughout with a nice combination of bridging and hand jamming followed by a slopey traverse.

Andy Peak 1 05/Aug Lead rpt

Jam jam jam

Kirill 01/Aug Lead O/S

Awkward jams, bridging on smears, steep.

Kris Doggett, Colomban MacDowall
Hidden 05/Jul Lead
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
Robaduck 23/May Lead dog
Estelles 23/May Lead dog
ashtond6 10/May 2nd rpt
adi bryant 07/May AltLd RP
salix 02/May 2nd

In the rain, but still felt nails.

gavinpeach 24/Apr Lead dog

Excellent climbing although fell on the crux to the ledge. Traverse above was a bit scarier than expected.

bigdrew 07/Apr 2nd O/S
ashtond6 27/Feb Lead O/S

Undoubtedly 5b, really awesome moves. Way more thrutchy than it looks and quite sharp

Canyak ??/2015 -
Luke Dawson 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

a lot wet

Mike Adams, Peter Dawson
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 12/Oct/14 2nd
fifth 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 09/Aug/14 2nd

Not one for a hangover. Tasty crack climbing.

Hidden 26/Jun/14 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/May/14 2nd dog

Should've tried harder but didn't want to destroy myself before The Strangler.

Andy Peak 1 15/Apr/14 Lead

One of the best hard and safe. The wet foot hold only ads to the fun:-) joe was truly the master:-)1950

Andrew Deckon
dr_botnik 15/Apr/14 2nd dog
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hannes B 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

gear in place

cameron_hall 08/Sep/13 2nd dog

Really hard work, but somehow got there in the end. Strenuous bridging and difficult to work out what to do.

leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead dog

bloody hard and my first lead fall. Nice one Joe!

leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead RP

Returned to try again. Worked out a way to jam myself in and take a much needed rest before the crux move that pulls you out of the crack. So so happy to get this one clean. The missing skin on my left hand acting as a nice reminder. One of the best! :-)

Hidden 10/May/13 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/12 Lead
Will Ward
roberto18 15/Sep/12 2nd

I had to second this wearing one trainer and one climbing shoe due to a stubbed toe. Nails!

Tom Nickols
Boy 09/Sep/12 Lead
Jon Coe
farkas.time 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

just had to hold onto that wire for a second. nice one.

Sam Simpson 24/May/12 2nd

One of the best routes on stanage awesome bridging awesome jamming!

Tom Doldon 24/May/12 Lead dnf

hardest hvs ive ever tried

sam simpson 48
Alex@home 14/May/12 Lead O/S

thought this was going to be a real struggle but turned out to be mostly very pleasant bridging with one slightly tougher move to exit the crack

The Doctor
Jim Slater 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

..well almost..rested on rope at top of crack.

CRiddiford 04/Jun/11 2nd
Paul L
JRae 03/Jun/11 Lead
M Scott
Anthony Dixon 16/Apr/11 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Si dH 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good tough HVS crack climbing. Starting the final traverse gives a bit of a sting in the tail too.

Neil Furniss
clukins 05/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Fell at the break in the crack on the central section.

dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Graeme Hammond 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

brilliant bridging moves followed by some tough jamming to reach the ledge (got to be 5b!), brutal but essential Stanage tick and hard at HVS!

andrea83 02/Aug/10 2nd dnf

Absolute hell. Couldn't finish. A mans route for sure. Note to self never try again!

Cake 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Solid crux

ed edwards ?/May/10 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Jim Slater 27/Sep/09 Lead dog
Eric, Mark Mercer
goi.ashmore 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Highly amusing

Arnaud Garcon
Different Steve 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S


Guy Reid
nicnic 25/May/09 Lead

yikes. wild. scary. pumpy. fierce. brutal.

Jon Youles
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
RocknRoll 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Quite thuggy but bridging helped, reachy commiting move to platform, very pleased to get it.

John Rushby
jw231 15/Aug/08 2nd dog
Al Benson
al99 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
James Whitlock
Shauna 07/Aug/08 2nd dog

My jamming education continues.

Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead dog
Brown 04/Jun/08 2nd O/S
gethin_allen ?/Jun/08 2nd

who needs skin on their hands anyhow?

OffshoreAndy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
NCC Kelvin
TomHaigh 14/May/08 Lead dnf
Dan 85 26/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Wouldn't usually log dnf, but got all the way up the jamming crack, but couldn't make the rightwards move onto the face due to the gale that was coming from the other side!!

jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead dog
shoulders 04/Aug/07 Lead
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead rpt
jon redshaw
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Andy Chubb 09/Jun/06 2nd
Steve Goodman
Oli 28/May/06 2nd dog

Horrible thing.

Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Pete Graham ??/2006 Lead
Jonny Reay
Nicos 18/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
kp64zl ?/Jun/01 2nd
Simon M
tlr ??/2000 2nd
dan gibson ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Roget 25/Jun/98 Lead rpt
timreynolds 25/May/97 Lead O/S
Rob Clark
NeilGriffiths 29/Apr/97 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Ellis 05/Sep/92 2nd
Martin Veale
Hidden 16/Jun/90 2nd
surfbish ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
Chris Cracknell,Various
Nigel Bond 22/Jul/80 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24/Apr/77 Lead

Felt tough, though it was graded VS then. Cold windy day - escaped to the shelter of Stoney.

Jim Worthington
Chris Terrey ??/1977 Lead
Ken Taylor
mikej 07/Jun/69 Lead
Geoff Williams
mikej 28/Aug/67 Lead dnf

A bit stiff for VS.

Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set