A proper full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1950-51
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Jamming gloves made this a really enjoyable and relatively pain free experience.
Fell off trying to get on to the ledge. Felt really hard - significantly harder than various other grit HVSs I've done.
Great climbing throughout with a nice combination of bridging and hand jamming followed by a slopey traverse.
|Andy Peak 1||05/Aug||Lead rpt||
Jam jam jam
Awkward jams, bridging on smears, steep.
Kris Doggett, Colomban MacDowall
|adi bryant||07/May||AltLd RP|
In the rain, but still felt nails.
Excellent climbing although fell on the crux to the ledge. Traverse above was a bit scarier than expected.
Undoubtedly 5b, really awesome moves. Way more thrutchy than it looks and quite sharp
|Luke Dawson||30/Nov/14||Lead O/S||
a lot wet
Mike Adams, Peter Dawson
Not one for a hangover. Tasty crack climbing.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||03/May/14||2nd dog||
Should've tried harder but didn't want to destroy myself before The Strangler.
|Andy Peak 1||15/Apr/14||Lead||
One of the best hard and safe. The wet foot hold only ads to the fun:-) joe was truly the master:-)1950
|Hannes B||01/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
gear in place
Really hard work, but somehow got there in the end. Strenuous bridging and difficult to work out what to do.
bloody hard and my first lead fall. Nice one Joe!
Returned to try again. Worked out a way to jam myself in and take a much needed rest before the crux move that pulls you out of the crack. So so happy to get this one clean. The missing skin on my left hand acting as a nice reminder. One of the best! :-)
I had to second this wearing one trainer and one climbing shoe due to a stubbed toe. Nails!
just had to hold onto that wire for a second. nice one.
One of the best routes on stanage awesome bridging awesome jamming!
|Tom Doldon||24/May/12||Lead dnf||
hardest hvs ive ever tried
sam simpson 48
thought this was going to be a real struggle but turned out to be mostly very pleasant bridging with one slightly tougher move to exit the crack
|Jim Slater||14/Jun/11||Lead dog||
..well almost..rested on rope at top of crack.
|Si dH||16/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
Good tough HVS crack climbing. Starting the final traverse gives a bit of a sting in the tail too.
Fell at the break in the crack on the central section.
|dan gibson||03/Aug/10||Solo rpt|
|Graeme Hammond||02/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
brilliant bridging moves followed by some tough jamming to reach the ledge (got to be 5b!), brutal but essential Stanage tick and hard at HVS!
Absolute hell. Couldn't finish. A mans route for sure. Note to self never try again!
|ed edwards||?/May/10||Lead O/S|
|Jim Slater||27/Sep/09||Lead dog||
Eric, Mark Mercer
|Different Steve||25/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
yikes. wild. scary. pumpy. fierce. brutal.
Quite thuggy but bridging helped, reachy commiting move to platform, very pleased to get it.
My jamming education continues.
who needs skin on their hands anyhow?
|Dan 85||26/Feb/08||Lead dnf||
Wouldn't usually log dnf, but got all the way up the jamming crack, but couldn't make the rightwards move onto the face due to the gale that was coming from the other side!!
|dan gibson||02/Mar/07||Lead rpt||
Felt tough, though it was graded VS then. Cold windy day - escaped to the shelter of Stoney.
A bit stiff for VS.
Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner