Rockfax Description
The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux. Good gear is available in the depths of the rift, though it is hard to place, especially with a helmet on! © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1933

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

Hidden 03/Oct Lead dog
Jonathan Hall 03/Oct 2nd dog
Neil 24/Aug Lead dog

Fell after being lured into the back by the promise of good jams and getting thoroughly worked trying to move up from the narrowing!

Carl Watkins 24/Aug 2nd dog
with Neil
gavinpeach 11/Aug Lead O/S

Lovely route. Safe as houses and a bit brutal. Fantastic fun! Started facing left and then turned to face right once I'd gotten to the bomber jams.

with Hellen
Ian Hylands 09/Aug Lead O/S

Wow! Hard work. Spent a while in the back looking for protection I could reach, but there wasn't any so started back and footing up. Reached a dodgy big cam, then a dodgy blue can, and finally a bomb-proof yellow. Hard work getting high enough to reach any hand-holds and feet nearly slipped off the green - had to retreat for a rest just below and try again. Grabbed the break and had a breather. Bloodied elbows! Oh yeah - first 'real' E1 lead!!

Andy Peak 1 05/Aug 2nd
tomwright1509 08/Jul 2nd O/S
joedean ?/Jul Lead

dirty off width

Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
boulderholder 30/May 2nd dog
ashtond6 10/May Lead O/S

absolutely amazing! grazed knees, wear jeans...

Canyak ??/2015 -
masa-alpin 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Unique climb! Moves are slightly harder than Strapiombo in Tremadog, but a lot shorter. I wish it would be longer.

with Tony H
gazfellows 09/Jul/14 Lead

The hardest chimney I've done for a while !! Definitely worth all of E1 5b. Proper old school class. X

with Nic
dannyboy83 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 15/May/14 2nd O/S

Face right, wear trousers. Brilliant.

soph 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Haydn Jones 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 04/Mar/14 Lead

Brilliant fight up the crack

with Hayden Jones
andi turner ??/2014 -

Climbed way back on day 2 of 100

with Adam Long
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
admackie 22/Dec/13 -

felt steady but a lot of blood came out for some reason

sopaz 22/Dec/13 2nd dog
with Mackie
deacondeacon 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really hot day, proper battle.

Jack93 03/Jun/13 Lead dog

I lost so much skin trying to place gear at the back of the chimney

cpt_crunch 03/Jun/13 2nd β
joe1joe1joe2 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Hard bloody work.

with Phillip Wright
Hidden 10/May/13 2nd dog
JamieSparkes 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead through on Nick's gear. hard work!

with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Aug/12 2nd rpt

after backing off

with Jamie
Alex@home 14/May/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
buxtoncoffeelover 29/Sep/11 2nd
nige 03/Sep/11 Lead
with colin struthers, mark hounslea
Brown 09/Aug/11 Lead
with James T
JRae 03/Jun/11 Lead
with M Scott
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
CRiddiford 03/Jun/11 2nd
with Paul L
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead dnf
M_W_Court 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
ianjfsutcliffe 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Kyuzo 20/Mar/11 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
tlmarjot 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Chris Todd, Ben Lea
Graeme Hammond 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

faced right, good old fashioned back and foot climbing EXCELLENT!!

andrea83 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Excellent. Nice chimney climb. Easier to second without gear around harness.

TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd dnf
Cragrat Rich 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 14/Sep/09 2nd

great, to lead sometime.

with dan
sparkass 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Full value

Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Mr Sparkle 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Mr Wild 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Roughly the Date

switch 02/May/09 2nd rpt

with Al on his Stag

wahniel 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

If peapod, goliath's groove and the trident are HVS, then so should this be. Or are they all E1? I don't think so, they are all safe as houses.

with Gerd Heinz Bentheim
joshwales 24/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with andy bowman, rebecca bowman
mel holmes 30/Jul/08 Lead
with Alex@home
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
DannyK 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with pep
jamesturnbull ?/May/08 Lead
with aiden
Dan 85 26/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Andrew Sloan 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2008 -
nacnud 20/Oct/07 2nd
Nicos 26/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Andrew Sloan 27/Dec/06 Lead dnf
Si dH 05/Nov/06 2nd O/S

Tom led as his first E1! Awesome route, quite hard work, although not so bad as I'd expected - I learnt how to chimey a bit :) Was chuffed to make it up clean.

with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 16/Jul/06 Lead

what a fight, made about one metre of upward progress in 15minutes an absolute battle.

Stig 04/May/06 2nd dog
with Chris
Rob Davies ?/Apr/06 2nd

Very green. Phil finished it after a lot of faffing around from the three of us

with Angus McLean, Phil Ashton
King Rat ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
craig h 21/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/98 Lead
with David
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 2nd

Much harder than Tower Crack

Hammy 20/Jun/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Andy Say 20/Sep/79 Lead
mikej 05/Oct/69 Lead
with E
mikej 28/Apr/68 2nd
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 11/Jun/66 Lead
Hidden 08/May/65 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SJPowderham1, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, adamre12, Hidden, hthom, charlielow, climb the peak, mapperley samurai, charley, ashtond6, Hidden, Dan Geh, funsized, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set