Traverse*** AD+
[Eric Dumarec on the Aiguilles Dorees, Switzerland, 2 kb]3519m. Classic ridge traverse, usually East to West. In Rebuffat's list of 100 finest climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif. Moves of IV sustained. Climbed from the Trient or Saliena huts. Guidebook time is 10hr for the round trip from the Trient Hut, 12hr is more usual. 14-15hr from the Saleina Hut. Can be escaped at 3/4 length.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Eric Dumarec on the Aiguilles Dorees, Switzerland © JSTaylor
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This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Unfortunately, DNF. Top tip for the walk in - don't read AC guidebook, take the Breya chairlift and walk in via Orny hut to Trient hut. (Trient is uber expensive!) First half of route went well - initial pitch looks very steep but is fine. Didn't do Aiguille Javelle as were afraid of losing time. Got to Col Copt which was a dead end. Couldn't traverse gully as it was awful black ice with no runners. We didn't know about the 6a pitch to avoid this so ended up abseiling the Copt Couloir. We didn't find a line of continuous abseil stations in the couloir and we only had one 50m rope so it did get a bit stressful! Fortunately a final ab station was found on the other side so we crossed the couloir to make the final rap over the massive shrund to safety!!
benclimbing - AltLd dnf - 02/Sep/15 with graham boistelle

Long Day out battling and trying to stay safe from bad snow on top of the Granite. After Col Copt, we speeded up a bit and got slicker. Sandbag at AD+, even when dry its still a big day out and should not be underestimated.
Sam Simpson - AltLd - 21/Aug/14 with Chris Andrews

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/14

Not to be underestimated! Very good value though, although the abseils at the end are a bit grim, particularly with teams above.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 06/Aug/14 with Steve

Hidden - 2013

jcw - 2013

East to west. Ascent from Col Copt currently only possible via steep undercut corner crack at 6a. Should have taken rock boots. 20 ft and 3 pts aid later ....... Traversing round to Col Copt not an option due to lack of snow and recent rockfall.
Tim Sparrow - Aug/12 with Geoff Thomas

mathquirk - AltLd - Jul/10 with Petter Zachrisson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Swampi, kleinej
Total votes cast 9
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3 Stars3 of 4
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