Rockfax Description
Start up ledges on the right then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A crux mantel on this may reach the top. © Rockfax

FA. Al Manson 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day.

ellis 13/Oct Lead O/S
with Dave Hollinger
Hidden 04/Oct Lead
Mark Kemball 04/Oct 2nd
with David Smart
Martin Bagshaw 04/Oct Lead O/S

Martin couldn't follow. Quite hard and bold for the grade

with Martin Wei▀mann
gavinpeach 23/Aug Lead β

Nice route. A delicate traverse followed by a cool mantleshelf move. I'd tried the route last year up until just before the mantle move and fractured a metatarsal trying to down climb; so not an onsite.

with Hellen
Calum Wadsworth 03/Jun Lead O/S

Tried mantling too early a couple of times and it was nails, moved left a bit further and put some more cams in, by this point I was fairly boxed, but thankfully mantle shelving in the right place wasn't too bad.

with micki
MSchobitz 03/Jun Lead β

On Calums gear, with his beta. Probably can only barely claim HVS...

jonhowson 30/May Lead dnf

Couldn't find any gear before traversing to the jug and didn't fancy it without so bravely ran away. Maybe next time.

with Claudia
Hidden 16/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May 2nd O/S
phil64 19/Apr Lead rpt

great moves for the tall!

with phil baker
bigdrew 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Reuben
Canyak ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
the power 02/Oct/14 Lead dnf
with Andy
WillDoyle 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd dog

One rest before mantel, great move.

with Rosa, Jonny Ashton
simon kimber 01/Apr/14 2nd
with Tom Parry
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd
Matthew Ferrier 26/Feb/14 Solo O/S

Reachy. 5b for the tall 6a for the short? Good little route.

Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
drysori 10/Nov/13 Lead
al123 22/Sep/13 Lead
Gudge 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S
elyben 30/Jun/13 Lead
cpt_crunch 03/Jun/13 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/13 Lead

Strait forward 5b

samt ??/2013 -
Hidden 30/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

faffed and got rather pumped on this. need to learn to mantelshelf properly.

with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Jamie
jwpil 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
Julia Chatterton 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Aptly named given the clouds that attacked us later that day...Nice climb though.

with Pep
rustaldo 11/Aug/12 Solo O/S

surprisingly worthwhile. probably best done highball.

Neil R 27/May/12 2nd dog

Too hot / tired to lead

tonanf 16/May/12 Lead dog
with deacon
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead dnf
deacondeacon 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
chris_B 25/Mar/12 Lead
louby 25/Mar/12 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
mattorford 23/Nov/11 2nd
AielSavage 23/Nov/11 Lead

cold meant that i couldn't feel my fingers from halfway up. good route though

victim of mathematics 28/Oct/11 2nd O/S
James Oswald 24/Oct/11 -

Hard work hanging around to place the gear in the break! Excellent mantle. Tough. Also a lack of good gear on the start wasn't pleasant!

with Colin Angus
disturbed_one51 11/Sep/11 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 11/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
bwestwood 10/Sep/11 2nd
Dave Foster 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

Muffed the mantel a good five times. Only tried it facing one way which might've made all the difference...

with Si
ojp 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S

love the mantal move

with Dave
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead β
Graeme Hammond 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead
geddicakes 14/Jun/11 Lead
liamoloughlin 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
cobweb 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with martyn hopson
mark20 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd dnf
richardr 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
M_W_Court 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf
ianjfsutcliffe 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
mattorford 08/Apr/11 Lead
quiffhanger 12/Feb/11 Solo
uphillnow ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Committed to the initail moves after various previous contemplations... Got pumpy towards finish, particularly becasue i opted to place a cam mid mantel and felt the need to pop back down to check it seated properly... Phew! Wicked little route

Si dH 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Found the crux pretty hard, felt like 5c, but I'm not good at press-down type moves.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Oct/10 Lead RP

got pumped stupid as I tried to do the route without the massive flat jug, retreated for a rest but the fell off and decked with rope stretch on the next attempt (almost new ropes). Had a long rest while James did another route and I got back on it as it got dark by head torch. This time I was less pumped and used the jug then the mantle felt so straight forward I was a bit annoyed to have messed up first go

Pythonist 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

A true test of mantel skill under pressure. Manage to fluff the crux, then catch the fall and have another go.

LakesWinter 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Getting midgy so didn't make a particularly serious attempt

with gustav
Cake 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Massive move! I'm coming back

with Angus
Adam Potter 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S

desperate for the short! im 5ft6 and this was a stretch fo me! didnt help when Ben made me laugh! push on the holds get better. English 5c if you round my height! good uk if your any shorter its gnna be pumpy as fck!

Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
RossG ??/2010 -
Birdo 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ceri Lewis
AJ007 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Dan
dan gibson 19/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with AJ
Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Mr Sparkle 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
PaulHermes 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
ebf 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Hard on the forearms!

with Woody
AngelaC 16/Jun/09 2nd
Coel Hellier 13/Jun/09 Lead
BeccaSnowden 11/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Tom
thomasadixon 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough crux.

with Becca
Joe Costello 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mrtom ?/Jun/09 Lead dnf
mattwyles1 ?/Jun/09 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/09 Solo O/S
switch 02/May/09 Solo rpt
riddle 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Nice climbing.

with Yasmina
Sankey 05/Apr/09 2nd dnf
with Luke
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
Nicos 11/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with john crook
Al Franks 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead β
jameswbrae 18/Oct/08 -

fun climb with a solid mantle crux at the top - easier once had reached for the edgy hold with the right, but still felt like I'd eaten my tricep

with Doug
Alasdair88 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Nicki, Claire
cy 18/Oct/08 2nd
with Al
Skell 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
Hidden 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
roberto18 17/Jun/08 Lead
with Tom Nickols
Franco Cookson OLD 31/May/08 Solo O/S
OffshoreAndy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
bullwinkle 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Eccentric 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 10/May/08 Lead dog

got pumped placing the blind cams and not trusting them, took a rest

galpinos 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
SteveM 09/Mar/08 Lead RP

Another daemon slain :-)

with Kat
kitkat78 09/Mar/08 2nd dog
with SteveM
flat eric 16/Feb/08 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead dog
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
craig d ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
bullybones ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Sidekick ??/2008 Lead O/S
freakeystyley34 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Ram MkiV 20/Oct/07 Solo
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Monk 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
gingerdave13 30/Sep/07 Lead β

seconded when monk did (to remove gear) then led (with same gear) must be something for the tall.. could rest, relax and place cams no issue.

with Monk
Joe Dove 23/Sep/07 Lead
with kev
jonnyboy 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Caralynh 28/Mar/07 2nd dnf

Not tall enough to reach the good holds, and not good enough to do it without!

maybe_si 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Daniel
dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with jon redshaw
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Luke Brooks 22/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/06 2nd
Stig 30/Aug/06 2nd dnf

Rain stopped play.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Owen W-G 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Denison
Oli 28/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Gambit 11/May/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
Alex Mason 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S

another good route, JUST long enough to reach the foot holds quite easy and odd line but a good route with a nice final move

with joe young
Boy ??/2006 -
Pete Graham ??/2006 Lead
with Jonny Reay
Charlie Williams ?/May/05 Lead dog
with Chris Sloan
SteveM ??/2005 Lead dnf

Backed off from the traverse.

with Tobs
cem 17/Apr/04 Lead β
with Pete Atkinson
adam carless ??/2004 Lead O/S

preplaced gear from Pete falling off it.

with Craig
willackers ??/2004 Lead O/S
with J.Bickerstaff
Hidden 28/May/03 Lead β
Hidden 28/May/03 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 28/May/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Mark Collins 13/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Andrew Eakins
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dad
Daniel Armitage 15/Mar/03 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

went easily on the good day at easter time, see wuthering, NTBTA

with Andy Reeve
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/02 2nd O/S
cem 15/Jun/02 Lead dnf

Too pumped after doing both Unconquerables

with Sally Dipple, Dave Amos
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
mcb ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Marc
migs493 22/Jul/01 2nd β
skygodley 19/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Julia Bodle
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead
Hidden 20/May/01 2nd
Paul Boardman 20/Oct/00 2nd O/S
Ropeboy 10/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/00 2nd
dan gibson ??/2000 -
Hidden 12/Sep/99 2nd
r0b ??/1999 2nd
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 29/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 30/May/98 Lead
bigphil 19/May/98 Lead O/S
with Phil R
BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Keith S.
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Jan/95 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
chris sm 30/Jun/94 TR rpt

Failed on Lead.

with Francis Taylor
Roget 24/Apr/94 Solo rpt
Rich Kirby 10/Oct/93 2nd
Hidden 03/Oct/93 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/93 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jun/93 Lead
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Chris Ellis 05/Sep/92 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/92 Lead β

Dave had failed on it, but had placed the vital runners. Cue some ethical arguments !

with Dave Gurney
Hidden 26/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/91 Lead
adi bryant 14/Oct/90 2nd O/S
with Ollie
Andy Say 03/Jul/90 Solo
Michael Hood 18/Mar/90 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 03/May/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
J R R Hartley ?/Sep/87 2nd O/S
with Pete Beasley
Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 29/Nov/86 -
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 02/Jul/85 Lead
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
mark-abz 16/Sep/82 TR
with Andy W
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Geoff82, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, philboy, johnpr, Pete Nugent, PebblePusher, Hidden, Hidden, alimckay, Yanis Nayu
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set