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Nuke the Midges* E1 5b

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[A controlled lunge?, 2 kb]10m. Start up ledges then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A hard mantel on this (crux) may reach the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Manson 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day.

Photo: A controlled lunge? © Owen W-G
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 198 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

simon kimber - 2nd - 01/Apr/14 with Tom Parry

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Mar/14

Reachy. 5b for the tall 6a for the short? Good little route.
Matthew Ferrier - Solo O/S - 26/Feb/14 with Tom Appleby

Hidden - Lead - 10/Nov/13

al123 - Lead - 22/Sep/13

Gudge - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Jon Stewart

elyben - Lead - 30/Jun/13

cpt_crunch - Lead dog - 03/Jun/13 with Jack Knight

Strait forward 5b
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

faffed and got rather pumped on this. need to learn to mantelshelf properly.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Jamie

jwpil - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Deacon

Aptly named given the clouds that attacked us later that day...Nice climb though.
Julia Chatterton - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Pep

surprisingly worthwhile. probably best done highball.
rustaldo - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/May/12

tonanf - Lead dog - 16/May/12 with deacon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

First time misread the moves and didn't traverse far enough (stupidly didn't see the hold higher up I should have been going for), so lowered off the good cams in the break. Watched some other guys do it and decided to have another go but at the point where I had to make the pull up to the jug had no reserves of strength whatsoever (after earlier unsuccessful battle with Goliath's Groove) and came off with big pendulum into my belayer. Least successful climbing day ever!
Ant Man Bee - Lead dnf - 12/May/12 with Paul Baxter

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12

chris_B - Lead - 25/Mar/12 with Lou Atkin

louby - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Chris Burn

Tony Kartawick - 2012

mattorford - 2nd - 23/Nov/11

cold meant that i couldn't feel my fingers from halfway up. good route though
AielSavage - Lead - 23/Nov/11 with mattorford

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/11 with James Oswald

Hard work hanging around to place the gear in the break! Excellent mantle. Tough. Also a lack of good gear on the start wasn't pleasant!
James Oswald - 24/Oct/11 with Colin Angus

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 11/Sep/11 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 11/Sep/11 with Mark Williams

CJEFF - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Thomas Ramsdon

bwestwood - 2nd - 10/Sep/11

Muffed the mantel a good five times. Only tried it facing one way which might've made all the difference...
Dave Foster - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Si

love the mantal move
ojp - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Jun/11

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Richard

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/11

geddicakes - Lead - 14/Jun/11

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

cobweb - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with martyn hopson

mark20 - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/May/11

richardr - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with ian sutcliffe

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11

ianjfsutcliffe - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

mattorford - Lead - 08/Apr/11

quiffhanger - Solo - 12/Feb/11

David Smith - 2011

rurp - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Committed to the initail moves after various previous contemplations... Got pumpy towards finish, particularly becasue i opted to place a cam mid mantel and felt the need to pop back down to check it seated properly... Phew! Wicked little route
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Found the crux pretty hard, felt like 5c, but I'm not good at press-down type moves.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

got pumped stupid as I tried to do the route without the massive flat jug, retreated for a rest but the fell off and decked with rope stretch on the next attempt (almost new ropes). Had a long rest while James did another route and I got back on it as it got dark by head torch. This time I was less pumped and used the jug then the mantle felt so straight forward I was a bit annoyed to have messed up first go
Graeme Hammond - Lead RP - 07/Oct/10 with james pcc, Richard

A true test of mantel skill under pressure. Manage to fluff the crux, then catch the fall and have another go.
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Mark Rankine

Getting midgy so didn't make a particularly serious attempt
LakesWinter - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10 with gustav

Massive move! I'm coming back
Cake - Lead dnf - 19/Jul/10 with Angus

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jan/10

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010

RossG - 2010

Birdo - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/09 with Ceri Lewis

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/09

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/09 with AJ

wolverine - 13/Sep/09 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Mike Hayes

chris sm - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

PaulHermes - 2nd - 12/Jul/09 with Stewart VCCC

PaulHermes - 2nd - 12/Jul/09 with Stewart VCCC

Hard on the forearms!
ebf - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Woody

Coel Hellier - Lead - 13/Jun/09

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/09 with Tom

Tough crux.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Becca

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09

mrtom - Lead dnf - Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 31/May/09

switch - Solo rpt - 02/May/09

Nice climbing.
riddle - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Yasmina

Sankey - 2nd dnf - 05/Apr/09 with Luke

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/08 with john crook

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Oct/08

fun climb with a solid mantle crux at the top - easier once had reached for the edgy hold with the right, but still felt like I'd eaten my tricep
jameswbrae - 18/Oct/08 with Doug

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Nicki, Claire

cy - 2nd - 18/Oct/08 with Al

Skell - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Kelvin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/08

roberto18 - Lead - 17/Jun/08 with Tom Nickols

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 31/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

got pumped placing the blind cams and not trusting them, took a rest
Mark Walter - Lead dog - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

galpinos - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark

Another daemon slain :-)
SteveM - Lead RP - 09/Mar/08 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/08 with SteveM

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Jim Walton - 2008

craig d - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2008

freakeystyley34 - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/07

Ram MkiV - Solo - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/07

Monk - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

seconded when monk did (to remove gear) then led (with same gear) must be something for the tall.. could rest, relax and place cams no issue.
gingerdave13 - Lead β - 30/Sep/07 with Monk

Joe Dove - Lead - 23/Sep/07 with kev

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Charlotte Armitage

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/May/07

MUCH harder than I remember! Insecure moves getting to the first gear, then got v.pumped blindly placing gear the break. It was a relief to get up onto the mantel! First route I've used chalk on in over 2 years.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/07 with Caralynr

Not tall enough to reach the good holds, and not good enough to do it without!
Caralynh - 2nd dnf - 28/Mar/07 with Nick Smith

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/07 with charlie

JPGR - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with Daniel

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/07 with jon redshaw

Duncan I - 2007

Luke Brooks - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/06 with Rob Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/06

Rain stopped play.
Stig - 2nd dnf - 30/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Simon Denison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/06

Gambit - Lead O/S - 11/May/06 with Tim

another good route, JUST long enough to reach the foot holds quite easy and odd line but a good route with a nice final move
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/06 with joe young

Boy - 2006

Pete Graham - Lead - 2006 with Jonny Reay

Charlie Williams - Lead dog - May/05 with Chris Sloan

Backed off from the traverse.
SteveM - Lead dnf - 2005 with Tobs

cem - Lead β - 17/Apr/04 with Pete Atkinson

preplaced gear from Pete falling off it.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 2004 with Craig

willackers - Lead O/S - 2004 with J.Bickerstaff

Hidden - Lead β - 28/May/03

Hidden - Lead β - 28/May/03

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 28/May/03 with dean howard

Mark Collins - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/03 with Andrew Eakins

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Dad

Daniel Armitage - Lead RP - 15/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead - Mar/03

went easily on the good day at easter time, see wuthering, NTBTA
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 2003 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/02

Too pumped after doing both Unconquerables
cem - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/02 with Sally Dipple, Dave Amos

A climb that simply had to be done - what a superb name :) Found the final moves pretty easy - not hard for 5b.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Apr/02

Hidden - 2002

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/01 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/01

Paul Boardman - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/00 with Noel Peatfield

Ropeboy - Lead - 10/Jun/00

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/00

dan gibson - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/99

r0b - 2nd - 1999

Simon Pearce - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/98

bigphil - Lead O/S - 19/May/98 with Phil R

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997 with Keith S.

craig h - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/95

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/95

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Jan/95 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Failed on Lead.
chris sm - TR rpt - 30/Jun/94 with Francis Taylor

Roget - Solo rpt - 24/Apr/94

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 10/Oct/93

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Jun/93

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/93

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 05/Sep/92 with Martin Veale

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/92

Dave had failed on it, but had placed the vital runners. Cue some ethical arguments !
Chris the Tall - Lead β - Jun/92 with Dave Gurney

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/91

adi bryant - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/90 with Ollie

Andy Say - Solo - 03/Jul/90

Michael Hood - Lead - 18/Mar/90

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/88

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 03/May/88 with Dave Forster

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

J R R Hartley - 2nd O/S - Sep/87 with Pete Beasley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1987

Dave Musgrove - 29/Nov/86 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/85

stp - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/84

mark-abz - TR - 16/Sep/82 with Andy W

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, philboy, johnpr, Pete Nugent, PebblePusher, Hidden, RM199, alimckay, Submit to Gravity

Voting
Total votes cast 118
hard E20 of 40
E20 of 40
easy E20 of 40
hard E15 of 40
E128 of 40
easy E12 of 40
hard HVS5 of 40
HVS0 of 40
easy HVS0 of 40
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c15 of 40
hard 5b4 of 40
5b17 of 40
easy 5b2 of 40
hard 5a2 of 40
5a0 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
3 Stars0 of 38
2 Stars10 of 38
1 Star25 of 38
0 Stars2 of 38
Bag of .....1 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed12 of 198 (6.1%)
Lead117 of 198 (59.1%)
Followed47 of 198 (23.7%)
Toproped2 of 198 (1.0%)
Unknown20 of 198 (10.1%)

'Climbed'76 of 198 (38.4%)
clean O/S76 of 198 (38.4%)
clean β7 of 198 (3.5%)
clean rpt11 of 198 (5.6%)
clean RP5 of 198 (2.5%)
dogged11 of 198 (5.6%)
dnf12 of 198 (6.1%)