Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Milton's Meander** VS 4c

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<< Paradise Wall
 
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18m. Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to the exposed arete and finish up this. © ROCKFAX
A teeny thread helps protect the traverse.
FA. Alan Clarke 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 271 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

grrrrrrrh - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Rosie Hawker

A good lead, harder than it looks
Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/14 with John Byrne

jasonpm - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Martin Hore

pedrosanpb - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with bob akam

bendevonport - 2nd - 08/Jun/14 with Jon Shields

jshields - Lead - 08/Jun/14 with Ben Devonport

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

Lancer - 2nd - 06/Jun/14 with Andy PCC

LJC - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Little Ben

Paul Baxter - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

wyzfen - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Paul Baxter

Radical-G - Lead O/S - 06/May/14

Fun, some nerve needed but only for a couple of moves
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

the power - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/14 with rob

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/14

helin - Lead - 27/Apr/14 with jules

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/14

Enjoyable climbing up the parallel cracks. Easy traverse, felt secure throughout.
ralphio - 2nd - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Jacob

thrutch - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Marc

leon - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13 with fabricio

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/13

Mr Messy - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Cath

tsjx - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with John Mc

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/13

BMC guide says it's scary for the very short. I'm very tall and critical hand slopers for reasurance on traverse were below my armpits so also scary for the very tall, until side pull found!
alaster tonge - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Assad Lahlou

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

lovely delicate traverse and exposed arete, much nicer than the book makes it sound, deserves more stars
pebbles - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with dave shield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13

popebenedictus - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Adrian Scott, Edd Rab

adrianscott - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Ben Harding

shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Jake Shaw

JakeWShaw - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Shaun

Why do I always climb too high past the correct break? And why did Julian do the same?
Becky E - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/13 with Julian

Lovely traverse
Montecore - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Duncan Exley

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13

Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Fran

franhammond92 - 2nd - 31/May/13

franhammond92 - 2nd - 31/May/13

Very pleasant, gets the best of paradise wall with a nice story traverse.
Pike - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Nathan

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Jenko

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Phil T

the power - 2nd rpt - 21/Feb/13 with Paul Hy

the power - Lead rpt - 13/Jan/13 with paul29uk

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jan/13

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/13

Hidden - 12/Jan/13

joeflan - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/12

Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12

sopaz - 2nd - 27/Oct/12

Palmer - Lead - 27/Oct/12

the traverse of death
the power - 2nd - 04/Oct/12 with rob, ken

placed a high cam but didnt down climb enough before starting the traverse; had to check me underwear after.
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12 with ken, Phil Taylor

Keir went a bit high before beginning the traverse - didnt find the thread
danny269 - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Keir

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/12 with Bart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

keithpeck - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12

knighty - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Keith Peck

Like this one
harold walmsley - Solo rpt - 13/Sep/12

Ali.B - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with RobertCanavan

Tom Davy - Lead - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Rickrick - 08/Sep/12

Griff1990 - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Piers Turnbull, Ian Hylands

Ian Hylands - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Adam Griffin

Beautiful route. Not hard. Just no gear on the traverse which makes the two steps across slightly bold.
Julian Lane - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Mynydd Colin

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/12

ashtond6 - 01/Jul/12

mjeffery - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - Lead - 18/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

Nigel Bond - Lead - 16/May/12 with Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman

spragglerocks - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12 with James Hoyes, Rachel Batt

Bit airy for seconds!
Batt - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with rachael spraggs, James Hoyes

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Rachael S, Rachel B

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 10/May/12

Oliver Houston - Solo β - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12

JohnHutch - Lead - 14/Jan/12 with Nik H

Hidden - 2012

keith leonard - 2012

andy mcc - 2nd - 02/Dec/11 with Robin Nicholson

dickie01 - Lead - 20/Nov/11 with Julian King

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

MrRoundy - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with JP

Started raining before travis making it a bit more tenuous, single rope technique deployed
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with liv_the_div

akhughes - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/11

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 23/Sep/11 with Simon Donowho

Climbster - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Joe Mallia

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/11 with Tim Rolfe

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Pete Wimbush

tomthecoolperson - 2nd - Sep/11 with Ben 250

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/11

JohnHutch - Lead - 17/Aug/11 with L

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Paul Wright, Jim Hatfield

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with robin, jim

philboy - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with bisanth

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/11

RichardMc - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Dave Whiteley

w.pettet-smith - Solo - 29/Jun/11 with me myself and pies

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/11

Adam1973 - Lead rpt - 29/May/11 with Martin

hotfeet - 2nd - 21/May/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Jamie

matthias13 - 2nd - 03/May/11 with Dan Parker, Kevin Charleston

Ben Taggart-Ryan - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

nice airy moves
Gustav - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with James H

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

Nice climb first double rope, that was novel. Don't like it
eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

olliejackson - 2nd - 08/Apr/11

Preferred to foot traverse than guide book's suggestion of hand traversing.
JohnHutch - 2nd - 01/Apr/11 with SC

Steve13 - 2nd β - 26/Feb/11 with Craig Lukins

clukins - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Steve Holland

pabbage - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11

Byronius Maximus - 2nd - 12/Feb/11 with Paul du Toit

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

patsaunders - Lead - 2011

mike4563 - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Gaz Hall

should have looked at the guidebook a bit closer, climbed to high before the traverse then had to down-climb
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/10

Bit delicate for the windy conditions!
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 13/Nov/10 with Neil Pacey

Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Tanya Savage

simondunf - Solo - 18/Oct/10

APRS - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Ewan Russell

Alaric - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ed, Neil

Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Neill Turner, Alaric

Lovely route. Extends the pleasure of Paradise Crack.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 27/Jul/10

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Paul PCC

JRae - 2nd - 04/Jul/10 with E Shawcross

Hidden - 04/Jul/10

ndraper1 - Lead - Jul/10

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Matt Box

Col Kingshott - 18/May/10

ollyhorst - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Ben Sidsaph

Ben Sidsaph - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Ollie

slacky - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/10 with Del

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Nice route
ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/10

peter myers - Lead - Apr/10 with Mat Dalby

Ann S - 2nd - 28/Mar/10 with Adam

Adam1973 - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Ann S

Phil1967 - 2nd - 17/Mar/10 with Dave Mason

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Phil Booth

Pete Graham - Solo - 11/Mar/10

hallg005 - 2nd - 2010 with mike4563

Hidden - Dec/09

JohnHutch - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/09 with L

Circus - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/09

Twisty - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/09 with Nigel Stock

Oceanic - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/09

BicepAndrews - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Keith Peck

Rachel Somerville - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Mike

Hidden - Solo - 15/Jul/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/09

Lou Kennedy - Lead - 23/Apr/09

Becky E - Lead β - 19/Apr/09 with Phil Lee

CharlotteJelleyman - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/09 with Steve Franklin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

metal arms - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/09

Kirill - 2nd - 29/Mar/09 with Alex Cowan

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Harry Andrews

grumpyoldjanner - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with d_meacher

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09

liamoloughlin - Lead - 21/Feb/09

@ndy - Lead - 03/Jan/09 with RCrockford

Diggler - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/08 with Ste D

Byronius Maximus - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Alex Twist

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire

cy - 2nd - 18/Oct/08 with Al

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Mike Buddle

JackMountains - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with James Fleming

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/08

Very nice, ended up being good preparation for Fairy Steps too.
whiting.jp - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with jamesca

Hedley - 23/Aug/08 with Steve Grey

Becky E - 2nd - 17/Aug/08 with PCC

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Brian and Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Lizzie

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Helen Lear

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Craig Jenkins

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with MeMeMe

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Secret Squirrel

smudge - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Will G

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/08

TomHaigh - 2nd O/S - Apr/08 with Paul Winders

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/08

kendogcatchy - Lead - 06/Jan/08 with Paul Martindale

Twisty - 2008

Jim Walton - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

PenJD - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Simon Palmer

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Alex Twist

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Graeme Hammond

The traverse is on poor feet and thin sloper hands. Pretty tenuous for 4c, felt more 5a on second. Stay low on the hands to get best use of the top break. Really look for the feet.
Duncan Skelton - 2nd - 20/May/07 with Paul O'Toole

Jim Vach - Lead O/S - 12/May/07 with Tim Dorsett

fizzy_elephant - Lead O/S - 03/May/07 with Stephen Baker

BallsofBritishSteel - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Charles

cem - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Rob Truckle

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/07

kenneM - Lead - Apr/07 with Booby Hewitt

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/07

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/07 with charlie

rob askew - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/07 with ben

Rampikino - 2nd - 14/Jan/07 with MMC Various

Hidden - 2007

Duncan I - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/06

colin milton - Lead - 21/Oct/06 with pep & andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06

bobette - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/06 with paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/06

Lev - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Little Old Lady

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 17/Jul/05 with John Inkpen

greg101 - 2nd - 10/Jul/05 with Matt O'Connor

SMc - 15/May/05 with Anne

cem - 2nd - 17/Apr/05 with Pete Atkinson

Pete Graham - 2nd - 2004 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/03

Jez - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/03

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/03

James B - 24/May/03

First ever route with the Tan.
Phil West - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/02 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2002

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2000 with Clare

alex_th - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/99 with Stephen Lumb

Andy Say - Solo - 01/Jun/96

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 10/Aug/94 with Rachel Nicolson

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Dave Musgrove - 03/Jan/87 with Kim Greenald

RichardMc - 2nd - 16/Jul/77 with Harry Woodbridge

mikej - Solo - 08/Sep/69 with E

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Voting
Total votes cast 117
hard HVS0 of 40
HVS0 of 40
easy HVS0 of 40
hard VS4 of 40
VS32 of 40
easy VS3 of 40
hard HS1 of 40
HS0 of 40
easy HS0 of 40
hard 5a0 of 40
5a0 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
hard 4c1 of 40
4c28 of 40
easy 4c7 of 40
hard 4b4 of 40
4b0 of 40
easy 4b0 of 40
3 Stars10 of 37
2 Stars22 of 37
1 Star5 of 37
0 Stars0 of 37
Bag of .....0 of 37
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Style of ascent

Soloed14 of 271 (5.2%)
Lead139 of 271 (51.3%)
Followed96 of 271 (35.4%)
Unknown22 of 271 (8.1%)

'Climbed'108 of 271 (39.9%)
clean O/S137 of 271 (50.6%)
clean β3 of 271 (1.1%)
clean rpt22 of 271 (8.1%)
dnf1 of 271 (0.4%)