60m, 2 pitches. As per SMC Guidebook (Cairngorms)

stukent 21/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
with Duncan Carr
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
AndyP 30/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Where do I start? Walked in to do King Rat or another E1, on the walk in the ground was so wet and the weather so threatening that we decided on a HVS, when we got to the base of the crag it was dripping so we thought we would do Mousetrap (VS). After about half an hour at the base of the route we decided that it was just too wet so we walked along to North-West Gully Buttress to do a VS there but even this was soaking so we set off up Late Night Final (HS)in the drizzle with charcoal skies above us. We did the intro pitch and belayed then I set off up the corner, it was soaking wet and unpleasant. About two thirds up the corner I placed a nut tried to do the friction moves but just couldn't get any purchase at all so decided to lower off, scramble to the top of the route, set up an abseil so Ian could get off the belay ledge and retreat beaten. This route is HVS 5a up to the point that I reached, gear is poor and the only crack to place it in is full of soggy moss. The move that I tried above the nut was at least 5a. The route is extremely undergraded. I wonder how many ascents it gets? And there were plenty of midges. So after being rained off Goliath ten years ago that makes it 2-0 to the Dubh Loch.

with Ian H.
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1