UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
A great test of nerve and ability; protection is adequate. Start up a crack then swing out left and make a fierce mantel to reach a creaky flake. Up this then move left up a shallow scoop to a ledge (crucial small cams). Layback up and teeter right, or move right and climb the headwall direct - a bit harder. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Good E4s , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , 50 of the Best , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Best Before 2025 , East and West Top 25

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cake 28 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: KennaM's gear beta is so completely wrong, I wonder if it's joke anti-beta.
Show beta
βeta: KennaM's gear beta is so completely wrong, I wonder if it's joke anti-beta.
kenneM 27 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Messed this up after the flake so putting putting this in here for next time... Red Camelot beside the mantel. Green Camelot above flake Use left hand in pocket Green Camelot and Red Alien above
Show beta
βeta: Messed this up after the flake so putting putting this in here for next time... Red Camelot beside the mantel. Green Camelot above flake Use left hand in pocket Green Camelot and Red Alien above
willackers 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant!!! Amazing route, even more exciting in strong winds ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant!!! Amazing route, even more exciting in strong winds ;)
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done, can't recommend it highly enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done, can't recommend it highly enough.
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, one of best on grit at the grade! Final run out headwall adds to the excitement!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, one of best on grit at the grade! Final run out headwall adds to the excitement!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 72
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nectar

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage North)

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