Rockfax Description
The rift that cleaves the centre of the buttress, passing the chock early on with difficulty. Safe but quite a battle. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

Roget 01/Nov Solo O/S
with robin
the power 25/Oct Solo
with deacon
Hidden 03/Oct Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 03/Oct Solo
rushy11111918 03/Oct 2nd
with Olly Moff
John Higgs 08/Aug Solo O/S
Gloria 08/Aug Lead G/U

Slightly narrowing and would be an off-width, awkward head-first straddle move onto the boulder lodged inside.

rachelvlc 08/Aug 2nd
pawel suhy 06/Aug 2nd RP

Seconded after bail out from lead. Very awkward.

with PCC
Neal Jobling 06/Aug 2nd

A graceless thrutch that felt very hard for the grade.

with Tracy
Marmoset 02/Aug 2nd
mark44 23/May Lead O/S

Awkward ..

alicethwaites 10/May 2nd
with Tom Geliot
Federico Sher 26/Apr TR O/S
with Joe Breslin
FlavioL1989 06/Apr Solo O/S
tomlevett 01/Jan -
Canyak ??/2015 -
SuperLee1985 09/Nov/14 Lead

Fun route but the definition of a 'thrutch' getting past the chock was a battle that took several attempts before I squirmed in the right way to actually make any progress (hips were to wide). facing left seemed to help.

with Alex Hunt, andrew gardner
SamT1 09/Nov/14 2nd β
GuitarGenius92 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/14 2nd
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 61

Chris Huntington 31/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
Kate Hallam 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
bendevonport 08/Jun/14 Lead
jshields 08/Jun/14 2nd
RKernan 16/Apr/14 2nd
with Lisa Davison
ldavison440 16/Apr/14 Lead
Ron 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Helen
minus8 ?/Apr/14 2nd
ThomasO'Hagan ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Eva Kocickova
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Matt Marsh 30/Mar/14 Solo
Hidden 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S
BenRyle 13/Jan/14 Solo O/S
with James
JamesLloyd ?/Jan/14 Sent O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2014 Lead
with Mike Irwing
jhobbs 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Disgustingly awkward move onto chockstone!

with Clare Sparks, Ben Watson
jason smeeth 31/Aug/13 Lead
charley 31/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Calum Wadsworth 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with S.O.C, Emma
simontyrrell 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 10/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Jimbo C 12/May/13 Solo O/S

Behind the chockstone. Nice little cave system to explore at the top too.

with Chris
cathymiller 06/May/13 2nd
giuly 02/May/13 2nd
with Neil Shephard
papashango 28/Apr/13 Solo
with Stu
fweatherall1 27/Apr/13 2nd
with james
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Anyes Varenne
anyes varenne 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
PLM ??/2013 -
knighty 13/Nov/12 2nd O/S
alexcollins123 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Natalyaaa 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Wedged in horizontally with legs sticking out at one point!

with Penny
penny_pops25 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

fun flailing

dsgarner 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LifeAboveTheBolt 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
nathan2day 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Martin Wilson
michaelcolledge 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
bobstones 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
waynem1985 17/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
mchandy 04/Jun/12 2nd
with fechtn
Emma Painter 06/May/12 2nd
with Tom
scarybiker ?/Apr/12 Lead

horrible thrutching

Heather651 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jonny
seanlikeskites 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
jockpat 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Marktrin 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Ellie
EllieWoods 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Fran
Goose4 24/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with Chris Ince, Paul Moore
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
JdotP 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Engaging grunting moves at the crux with the risk of toppling out backwards from the chimney to keep you concentrating.

with Stanislav Huska
SteveJCox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Cox
Tom Cox 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd dnf
jwpil 28/Sep/11 Solo O/S
climbingrev 26/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Just a chimney really - any narrower and it would be an off-width. A bit of a scrape and shuffle.Odd move to get off the ground, maybe mthis gives it the H of the VD.

Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
monkeymark 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Josh
dbarmbs 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Neil McAlister
kermit_uk 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
KurtD 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
magik_bob ?/Jun/11 Lead
jimmi30 ?/Jun/11 2nd
GermanAlex 17/May/11 Lead O/S

harder if you have a massive bum, leave all gear except for 4 slings (it gets stuck & scratched, 2 threads in the chimney, 2 for the bomber belay)

Hidden 17/May/11 2nd
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 10/May/11 Solo O/S
with DICS chris
DigitalSteak 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
superturbo 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
stoo2k 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
stev1e.wilso 05/Mar/11 2nd
with Dylan
bigbadbob12345 05/Mar/11 Lead
Feneley ??/2011 Lead O/S

Was stuck trying to get on top of the chockstone (crux) for bloody ages, but completed with no falls or on rope rests.

with Geoff ?
torin_123 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
dannyraff 17/Sep/10 Lead β

very tight.

Hidden 17/Sep/10 Solo
SteveM 15/Aug/10 Solo
Rich K 04/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Wayne Cheung
treg 01/Aug/10 2nd

Just too narrow to effectively bend my knees in any sensible way. Seriously ungraceful.

with Bird
edmitchell 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route for udging up. Take a long sling for the low chockstone to protect

Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd
tomB 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Juliette
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd
Brodie 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with mikey
zoeduffin ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
AMarchant 15/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Adam Potter 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
katyc 04/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
samuel_w ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

My climbing partner decided that this was appropriate to address my stinking hangover...

Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd β
mark stephenson 02/Jun/09 Lead
EmmanuelF 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Laura
gravity 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with John Tomlinson
timbo81 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Danny
timbo81 05/Apr/09 2nd
howlingbaboon 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 09/Mar/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Jan/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
tommcdonna 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out how to pass the lowest chockstone.

with Richard Nuttall
petemeads 09/Oct/08 Solo
French Erick 28/Sep/08 Solo O/S
mike_hough_uk 20/Jul/08 2nd
Theeni 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Kemp
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Ian Archer 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with CJ
SteveMyatt 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ka Kei Ho; Barrie Peck
Pilch 20/May/08 Solo O/S

Good fun and found some dropped gear, winner

with Graham
Andy Moles 16/May/08 Solo O/S
with -
dhthomson 10/May/08 2nd O/S
PeteH ?/May/08 Lead O/S

Classic gritstone HVD i.e. completely ridiculous strenuous thrutch!

spbond 21/Mar/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hartley 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with claire burge
Hidden ??/2008 -
jcurley 12/Sep/07 Lead
with James
Stig 12/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Joe
C@rwyn 09/Sep/07 Solo O/S
HeatherF 09/Sep/07 Solo
pad-rat 09/Aug/07 Lead
icnoble 04/Aug/07 Lead
with Eileen
liamoloughlin ?/Jul/07 Solo
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Solo rpt
scarybiker ?/Jun/07 2nd

horrible thrutching

cheeky 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Philipson
John Eley ?/May/07 Lead O/S
harryt 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Jim Vach 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 08/Apr/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 21/Feb/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Dave Wearing 17/Feb/07 Lead
with rbracken
01wills 04/Sep/06 Solo O/S
colin milton 23/Jun/06 Solo
spqr 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Stefen
Graeme Hammond 15/Oct/05 TR O/S
with LSMC members
Nicos 21/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Stig 03/May/05 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
sam coward ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tim and Brigitte
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
victim of mathematics 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 13/Nov/04 2nd O/S
burnt ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Lincoln
Apharri ?/Jul/04 Solo
with Dave Wharton
DerwentDiluted 29/Jun/02 Solo
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Solo
Gman ?/Jan/99 2nd O/S
with Dan
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Laramadness 18/Jun/95 Solo
Chris Ellis 25/May/95 Solo
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Phil West 28/May/94 2nd O/S
with Steve Wild
Hidden 10/May/94 Solo
Scott McRae 07/Aug/93 Lead O/S


BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Iain Thow 14/Sep/86 Solo
johnny20whales 06/Jul/85 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
Nigel Bond 18/Feb/77 Solo
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/76 Solo
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/71 Lead
mikej 12/Jun/66 Solo
with Ted Markham
Hidden 08/May/65 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gavinwm, gazj1986, Hidden, Snorfalorpagus, Hidden, Hidden
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 20
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set