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Cleft Wall Route 2* VS 5a

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[Helen Taylor, Cleft Wall Route 2 VS 5a, Stanage, 2 kb]12m. A continuous crack running the full height of the buttress. It is safe but awkward, especially towards the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Wide Cracks, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: Helen Taylor, Cleft Wall Route 2 VS 5a, Stanage © Lurking Dave's Boss
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 226 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

rich_hw - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/14 with John_PCC

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/May/14

shouter - Lead - 26/May/14

A slow and careful approach meant most off-widthing was avoided. Felt really nice in places.
Paul Baxter - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

wyzfen - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Paul Baxter

Radical-G - Lead O/S - 06/May/14

stuart90 - 16/Apr/14 with Laura Thompson


Eireannach - 2nd - Apr/14 with Vladimir Zholobenko

jshields - Lead - 01/Dec/13 with Ben Devonport, Mike Dowsett

MikeDowsett - 2nd - 01/Dec/13 with Ben Devonport, jshields

LJC - Lead - 15/Nov/13 with Theo

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Steve Pritchard

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Chasqui Patter, Joe Rigby

Paul Eckton - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Joshua Leak

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Anne Gumbley

Anne Gumbley - 2nd - 26/Aug/13 with Mark Fairbank

Some tricky moves, quite awkward off width crack, needed to rest near the top, harder than first assumed.
Johnny B Diggerman - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/13 with Dan L

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/13

TP - Lead - 21/Jul/13 with Dave M

A bit worrying on the solo but it's all there thankfully
deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/13

A very good route. Tricky and worth doing.
mickd - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

Pretty messy, great jams, unassumingly hard!
jack89 - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with gaz_jones

Did the start of Ritornel to the ledge at 5m
Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with Graham Dolman

:(
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13 with Rach Batt

More thrutching
Batt - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Matt Box

amccann - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13

the easier of the twae, more a holds than cleft version of the two.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Lee

Sustained and awkward. Very grit. HVS 5a?
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Chris

giuly - 2nd dog - 02/May/13 with Neil Shephard

alastairbegley - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with David West

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13

AlanPedrick - 2013

marsden.d.paul - 2nd - 08/Dec/12

Nice off-width. Worth doing, definitely.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 18/Nov/12 with Simon P

BethanWhite - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Sam Turton

rooftops - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 20/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/12 with Dom

Thuggy
joedoherty - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/12 with Josh Rigby

Mr Fuller - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Liz Smith, Crazy Tom

lizard-16-07 - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Crazy Tom

chrisbussell - 2nd - 18/Sep/12 with Tim O'Neill

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Rachel B

Awkward and not good on a muggy evening
Batt - Lead dog - 14/Aug/12 with James Hoyes

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12

Hannes B - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/12

bobstones - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Wayne Murphy

waynem1985 - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Bob Stones

moberg - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Bern Hardman

JohnHutch - Lead rpt - 21/May/12 with Nik H

Oceanic - 06/May/12

tompilgrem - 2nd β - 20/Mar/12 with Matt Harle, Dad

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Matt/Tom

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with S.Bennett

Falko - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Al W.

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Johny R

JRae - 2nd - 30/Oct/11 with Jake Young

J.Atkins - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/11

J.Atkins - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/11

Dagash - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11

SteveJCox - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Tom Cox

Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Andy Feneley

Martin Davies - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Tom Smart

Seb's first lead, in trainers.
WillDoyle - 2nd - 29/Sep/11

Solid, if a little rounded VS. Thankfully decided not to push up the layback , relying on what looked like a positive edge from below (horrible rounded sloping thing in reality!). Good climbing.
climbingrev - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Tim Angell

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Sep/11

pr1984 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Chris Chambers

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Aug/11

monkeymark - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/11 with Josh

dbarmbs - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Neil McAlister

w.pettet-smith - Solo - 29/Jun/11 with me myself and pies

simoncov - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Ross Remnant

Nice route, do remember enjoying it don't remember the 5a move though. Well worth a couple of stars.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Tim Reynolds

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

timreynolds - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike Henesy

fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 29/May/11 with jim

In the end. Tough.
Jim Malo - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Barry

benwhit - Lead O/S - 11/May/11

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 02/May/11

maherp - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Tim Perkin

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with deborah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11

A late day struggle. Almost did it elegantly
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with steve tree

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

tougher than it looked
Si Croft - Lead - 26/Mar/11 with Jos

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Feb/11

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/11 with Dave Smith

thekendo - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with andy peak 1

David Smith - 2011

Steven Andrews - 2nd - 14/Nov/10 with Richard Lines

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Oct/10

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Hannah

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with Mark Freestone

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10 with chris moor

Harder than it looks
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 18/Sep/10 with Woody

Hard - wouldn't like to lead
Alaric - TR O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ed, Neil

The crack is wide at the top with little footing and rounded off holds. You have to pull up awkwardly. I struggled with this bit.
Ed Griffin - TR dog - 12/Sep/10 with Neill Turner, Alaric

Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Albie, Richard B

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

thomasmouse - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10

edmitchell - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with charlotte goedvolk

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/10

Traversed off on to Ritornel: seriously bad idea!
JohnHutch - Lead dnf - 28/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/10

alis choice for wrm up, bizarely, as she claims to hate thrutchy climbs, off-widths and jamming. and this is all of the above.
pebbles - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

frume - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09 with Rory Juss

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Nicky Shaw, Steve Harby

Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Viskii Chicu

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Did a splendid seal impression at top :D
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Simon Caldrick

Better than it looks.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Alex

Some nice moves mixed with thrutchy madness.
alexyoung - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Dave the Dentist

tedburt - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Pete Hayes

Hidden - Solo - 31/Aug/09

RichardMc - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with Alan Mountford

Brown - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Solo

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

mol - 2nd - 14/Jun/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with Molly Thompson

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Offwidth fun.
DafSWMC - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Eefu

Tried the lead. Got over first hard section with an almighty struggle, then wussed out of the top section with a couple of metres to go as couldn't commit to the pull. Did it without too much issue on 2nd.
gav - 2nd RP - 23/May/09 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/09

Chris Craggs - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Steve Cunnington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/09

danm - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Sion

Tim W - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

Kirill - 2nd - 29/Mar/09 with Alex Cowan

Hidden - Lead - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/09

RCrockford - Lead dnf - 03/Jan/09 with Graham

Calder - 2nd dnf - 03/Jan/09 with Richard

laurenb66 - Lead - 2009 with Franck

SteveM - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/08 with Alicia

French Erick - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/08 with LAK, Burnsie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

Shauna - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/08 with Luke (Danger)

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Steve

Anna Horrox - Lead dog - 17/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - 2nd - 17/Aug/08 with Anna

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/08

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with SteveM

Matthallinan - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with Jon Winter

Tough near top
JohnHutch - TR - 24/Jun/08 with L

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/08

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/08

quite awkward near the top
leepip - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with tom davies

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Steve Grove

a fun packed route
Pilch - Lead O/S - 20/May/08 with Graham

a tad tough for grade
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/May/08

Green and slimy cracks, we gave up after about 2 falls each and abbed off to get gear
Little AndyH - Lead dnf - 05/May/08 with Dan Jackson

Desperate struggle
daveclarke5 - Lead dog - 03/May/08 with Andy

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with ewan

Ewan Richards - 2nd - 09/Mar/08 with Dave6

Hidden - Solo - 16/Feb/08

sdht - 2008

Ed had a real problem with this one... followed by me having a mare trying to get his last (oversized) cam out...
Joe Noake - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Ed Throp

challenging
Ed Throp - Lead - 15/Sep/07 with joe noake

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Sep/07

wahniel - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/07

matthewss - 2nd - 04/Aug/07 with Miles

Very awkward climb
duzinga - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/May/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/07

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/07

Seem to remember having it clean but may be mistaken. To a poor jammer it was a fight.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with CheshireClimber

Jim Vach - 01/Apr/07 with Tim Dorsett

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 25/Mar/07 with simon blythe

sasmojo - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with zephr

Stig - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/07 with Cris + Tim

timothee - Lead - 2007

Hidden - TR - 29/Oct/06

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/06 with martina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Oct/06

colin milton - Lead - 11/Sep/06 with shaun l

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/06

Another mini epic. What a flippin pump. Possible contender for Hardest VS ever!
Harry The Owl - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/06 with Jon Hobbs

leon - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Amanda Skeldon

Mutl3y - Lead dnf - 27/May/06 with Iggy

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/06

Hidden - 2006

Nicos - Solo O/S - 11/Dec/05 with danny carden

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/05 with Ben Hanson

Stig - 2nd rpt - 09/Oct/05 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/05

SMc - 20/Jun/05 with Anne

cem - 2nd - 15/May/05 with Hans, Eric Olson

Stig - 2nd O/S - 04/May/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Shad - Lead - May/05

Mike’s climb…. apart from the book saying about the ‘technical, complex or trick move’ it also says ‘awkward especially towards the top’. Once more – it was! Poor old Mike got up to the midway ledge with some heroic & athletic moves, with his protection now at his feet level, but he couldn’t make the ‘technical, complex or trick move’ needed to get past the next problem! So after several attempts at moving on and then hanging around by only his left hand…. He admitted defeat and asked Lizzie to go up and top rope him past the problem. Liz obliged and dashed up to chuck the rope at him, to enable Mike to step out round and up past the difficult bit, which was ‘especially awkward’! Once that step was done Mike finished the route mumbling about ‘wussiness’ and the like!
Mike Lee - Lead dog - 21/Apr/05 with Jim

chris warner - 2nd - Aug/04 with duncan barton

LoopyLou - Lead - Aug/04 with WOTR

mel holmes - Lead O/S - Nov/03

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/02

Jon Greengrass - 2002

Hidden - 2002

reg_measures - 2nd - 31/Oct/01

kp64zl - 2nd - May/01 with Piers

Ropeboy - Solo - 01/Oct/00

Hidden - Lead - Aug/00

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 06/May/95 with Gary Jackson

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/93 with Steve Jones

Andy Say - Solo - 23/Sep/89

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 10/Jul/80 with Andy Reynolds

Andy Fielding - Solo - 30/May/80

Mark Kemball - Solo - 11/Jun/78

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 1975

mikej - Solo - 25/Mar/73

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 78
hard HVS0 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS1 of 26
hard VS6 of 26
VS19 of 26
easy VS0 of 26
hard HS0 of 26
HS0 of 26
easy HS0 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b0 of 26
hard 5a0 of 26
5a23 of 26
easy 5a1 of 26
hard 4c2 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
3 Stars0 of 26
2 Stars10 of 26
1 Star14 of 26
0 Stars1 of 26
Bag of .....1 of 26
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Style of ascent

Soloed18 of 226 (8.0%)
Lead106 of 226 (46.9%)
Followed88 of 226 (38.9%)
Toproped4 of 226 (1.8%)
Unknown10 of 226 (4.4%)

'Climbed'77 of 226 (34.1%)
clean O/S107 of 226 (47.3%)
clean β5 of 226 (2.2%)
clean rpt12 of 226 (5.3%)
clean RP1 of 226 (0.4%)
dogged16 of 226 (7.1%)
dnf8 of 226 (3.5%)