Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack is a mild and short test of fist-jamming. Thought by some to be the hardest of the three, though it isn't. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1953

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

chris wyatt 28/May Lead O/S

Sweet moves, As I kicked out a crucial cam was left with one piece on the whole route!

FlavioL1989 10/Apr Lead O/S
the power 25/Oct/15 Lead dnf


with deacon
dom94 08/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Matt Groom 08/Oct/15 Lead
Gambit 08/Oct/15 2nd O/S

What an interesting route, no jamming for me

with Royston, Mark Leicester
rurp 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Short and tough

with bill farmer
Nick Wallis 25/Sep/15 Lead dog
with James Hall, Tom Holdsworth
ASchwirtz 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
John Higgs 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Mowglee 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Greg
Capricorn One 06/Aug/15 2nd

Made a proper mess of this on second. Chastening.

with Gareth Uglow
TonyB 25/Jul/15 2nd
with TobyA
TobyA 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with TonyB
Chris M 24/Apr/15 AltLd
steveb2006 14/Apr/15 Lead

10th route of the day

with Mick Fowler
Canyak ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd O/S
Mowglee 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Easy once I'd realised not to jam and just layback to the jugs!

with Ali
julesmckim 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

It's little alright

Andy Fielding 14/Sep/14 Lead
goddamm7 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Alex Hallam 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Should probably learn how to jam Ben...

with Ben Corbey
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
dannyboy83 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Brown 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Lilifa
Budge 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with James from the Club, Ade
kp64zl ?/May/14 2nd
with Julian M
quiffhanger 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dan M
MichaelGallimore 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Ian led, me and Dan seconded. Ian climbed all three unconquerables in a day! Well done ian!

with Ian crook
LJC 15/Nov/13 Lead
with Theo
Paul Eckton 14/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Joshua Leak
The Reaper 12/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
Michael Allday 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 12/Apr/13 Lead O/S
samt ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
masa-alpin 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Good route with solid jams! I wished it'd be longer. I found this to be two grades easier than Green Crack (VS), Ramshaw (which I felt is a bit undergraded, to be fair); this is solid VS 5a.

with Simon P
kenneM 08/Sep/12 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kenny
Alex Winter 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Took about 40 seconds. Nice couple of moves. Sadly very little.

with W. Morgan
Misha 02/Sep/12 Lead

A few pulls on jugs, an arm bar, a jam or two and Bob's your unkle! Enjoyable.

with Ed
eduardo 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Short but sharp then eases.

with Misha
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Staves
deacondeacon 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

one cam, laybacked on the right. Real shame it isnt longer, i found it the easiest of three.

Haydn Jones 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with deacon
Cake 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Didn't use proper fists, open-handed jams sufficed. Pretty hard at the grade. Surely 5b?

Adam Potter 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Boy 12/Jul/12 Solo
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
john lynch 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with adam harrison
Apharri 16/Apr/12 2nd β
Hidden 12/Apr/12 2nd dog
mark schramm 24/Mar/12 2nd
Falko 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

A wee tough nut.

with Steve M, Al W.
nickdonohue ?/Mar/12 Lead
with Emma Grant
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
chrism225 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jake Young 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Chris
Matt Cooke 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Skelhon
Jim Slater 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 15/Oct/11 2nd rpt
allyrocke 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 15/Oct/11 Lead dog
andybirtwistle 15/Sep/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
freudy_love 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Gibson, Rob Thomas
Fran S8 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead dog
Nick1812P 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
JamieSparkes 26/Jun/11 Lead β
with Doug, Nick
mark20 20/Jun/11 Lead β

Need to do more fist jamming

JRae 20/Jun/11 Lead
M_W_Court 20/Jun/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
Chris Wright 31/May/11 Lead
fatbuoybazza 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Ace, good fist jams an felt quite airy once up on the hanging crack

with jim
Jim Malo 29/May/11 2nd dog
with Barry
tony wood 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Paul Greenhead, Andrew Porter
tlmarjot 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Ben Lea
madasten 12/Mar/11 Lead

Hard work! Didn't manage to use the size 4 cam, although the size 3.5 was useful. Good jams if you search for them!

with Miquel
gazfellows 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

a tough little gem.. quite commiting entering the hanging crack but once your in the holds are there... brilliant..

with shaun d
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Ollie B 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

size 5 cam helped

with J.Monypenny
Tony Holdsworth 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Steep but a couple of decent jams to be found.

with Peter Harris
Richard Gilbert 21/Aug/10 2nd

Couldn't find a fist jam - went left arm in to the armpit which seemed to work!

with Haydn Gaukroger
haydng 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wider than fists, definitely bring a #4 camelot.

thekendo 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Chung-Hsien Cheng
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
mackay780 ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 24/Jul/10 Lead
with H washbrook
Somerset swede basher 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Blain
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd O/S
mark4344 22/May/10 Lead dnf

last climb of day and too strenuous for me. even so climb felt v.bold as hard to protect crack without loads of large cams.

with andreas and matt, Andreas, Matt Payne, Nick Coles
ed edwards ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S

felt a bit pokey.

with Tom
The Bad Cough 16/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 -
pigeonslipper ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 15/Nov/09 2nd
Si dH 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

easy but painful fist jams (long sleeves essential). One/two move wonder.

with Neil and Chris
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
bridget143 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Phil Ward
HIGHTOWER 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Joe (Hotrock)
Hidden 19/Aug/09 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 19/Aug/09 2nd dog

really nice moves once I'd found the right point to jam.

mattcyp88 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Will Horton, Jon Pownall, Dave Spencer
ChuckstarUK 14/Jun/09 2nd dog

Rob's lead. Fall on crux. Horrible route!

with Nicola and Rob
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd dog
Chris Craggs 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Vincent
Graeme Hammond 10/Dec/08 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 10/Dec/08 2nd O/S

Laybacking more than jamming, good route.

Stig 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Not that hard!

with Dave
howlingbaboon 11/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with James
Andrew Barker 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Pattinson
French Erick 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 28/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Skell 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
jw231 15/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Al Benson
al99 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
pebbles 02/Aug/08 2nd dnf

too knackered to get anywhere on this after seconding left and right inconquerables. Called it a day and lowered off. And the crack is far too wide for fist jamming unless you have hands like a boxer - the guy who finished off after me laybacked it, which looked much more sensible.

with alan walmsley
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Matthallinan 24/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Jon Winter
Andrew Sloan 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Grove
Pilch 20/May/08 2nd O/S


with Graham
Andy Moles 16/May/08 2nd
with Calum
CalumC 16/May/08 Lead O/S
DannyK 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with pep
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Dan 85 05/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Nicos
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
wahniel 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 21/May/07 2nd O/S

proper thuggy fist jamming, unfortunately it's all over too fast.

PaulTanton 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 29/Oct/06 TR dnf
Nicos 24/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 17/Sep/06 2nd
Pythonist 30/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Jez ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Lead
01wills ??/2006 Lead dnf

what i loada shite was to tired to fininsh

with David Radly
crossleysm ??/2006 Lead


kevinknights 20/Nov/05 2nd dog
with Ginger Tom
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
shark 05/Oct/05 Solo O/S
gonggashan ?/Sep/04 2nd
with Andrew Balnaves
cem 07/Sep/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 03/Jun/01 -
with Glenn
skygodley 01/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 24/Apr/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Chris Harvey
dan gibson ??/2000 -
snowy_woodruff 17/Oct/99 Lead

1st lead fall - scary route

Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Stoney Boy 27/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
goi.ashmore 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with Matt Hirst
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/93 2nd O/S
Pete Nugent 12/Sep/92 2nd O/S
with Ian Makin
Hidden 13/Oct/91 2nd
Roget 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
Steve Crowe 18/May/91 Lead O/S
with KM
babymoac 16/Jun/90 Lead
with Alan S
howifeel ??/1990 Lead O/S

Bit short

with Stevoe
Rob Davies ?/Sep/88 2nd
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 Lead
with stumpy
surfbish ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
stp 26/Apr/86 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 2nd
with Paul Clark
Mark Kemball 12/May/82 Solo
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High E1
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Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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