The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. Low in the grade. © Rockfax
FA. Ernie Marshall 1981
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Thought the top was quite insecure
Royston, Mark Leicester
|Nick Wallis||25/Sep||2nd O/S||
James Hall, Tom Holdsworth
|Jamie Everitt||11/Jul||Lead dog||
|Fraser hill-casey||06/Jun||Lead O/S|
|Alistair Corbett||30/May||Lead O/S||
|Matt Shepherd||25/Mar||TR O/S|
|James S||21/Mar||Lead O/S||
|Alex Hallam||07/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Bit scary but glad Ben egged me on, also glad I won that tri cam in a christmas cracker.
|Tommy Moore||03/Jul/14||2nd O/S||
Backed off as my head wasn't in it. Alex did the hard work and I had the pleasure of following.
Jasmin, Jim, Martin
Dunc, Ian Milward
Nice moves but bold in lower section - thankfully good gear for crux!
felt v bold as didn't have a cam smaller than a 1.0, hardest moves well protected
Would be pretty soft only it was gusting 40mph so felt pretty scary. Nearly got blown off several times.
Bit broken by the ledges but nice climbing
Lower bolder section didn't seem that bad, found the hardest section after the first bomber friend 3 & 3.5 and then the top out belly flop. Bomber friend 1 & 1.5 in the first break. Alrightish friend 0.5 in the middle break.
Jon Turner, Phil McFadden
Joe Chambers, Jan
|Paul Eckton||14/Sep/13||Lead β||
I thought this was class and worth more than 1 star. Too chicken to do it on lead - very bold!
A nice route. Gear adequate in lower half and actually very good near the top. Realtively straighforward for E2?
|Paul Hy||02/Jul/13||2nd dog||
the wind blew me off when reaching up for last but one break!!
|Tom Peeper||02/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
blue/yellow Dragons in break
Nice climbing but found it to be quite bold and top end 5b with crux near the top for me.
seems very bold to lead. well done andy! Hard move near the top
Gear is decent enough now at the narrow break above half height
|john lynch||16/Apr/12||2nd rpt||
Chris Ince, Paul Moore
Mark Scramm, Dave Coley
|Graeme Hammond||18/Mar/12||Lead O/S||
Some good moves. Gear even worse than expected, other than the gear in the first break, i didn't trust or find any decent gear till the 2/3 height break!! Felt bold and scary today.
|Simon Allcock||??/2012||2nd O/S||
|Tom Livingstone||12/Nov/11||Lead O/S|
|Andy Peak 1||31/Oct/11||Lead|
Nice route. Pretty soft for E2.
|Martin Davies||16/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Great route! Bold with good moves.
|ian d f||28/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Tim Chulwick, Michael P
|Bloke on a Rope||09/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Found this easier than right unconquerable just not as well protected.
|Jim Slater||12/Jul/11||2nd O/S|
James PCC, Jim Slater
|belay bunny turned bad||21/Jun/11||2nd O/S|
felt a bit eliminate at times but some nice moves. despite the guidebook suggestion, there is a hard move before the decent runners - take small wires. Direct finish added a bit more amusement too :)
Thought the crux was the top...but didn't realise you were supposed to go up RU. Not bad route, terrible gear, defo E2.
Doug belayed Mike but did not second.
Mike (Birmingham), Doug S
|Chi Cheng||??/2011||2nd O/S||
Thought i was going to come off a few time even when i was seconding.
|john lynch||23/Nov/10||Lead O/S||
Neil Elmore, Lewis Andrew
Awsome route, deffinatly going to go back and lead it some day
|Tony Holdsworth||13/Oct/10||2nd O/S||
bold and gear not easy to place well
This would be a two star route if it wasn't so eliminate as at several points you can step round onto much easier ground on the arete or grab hold of a really good hold. The definitive guide says you should stay away from the right side of the arte but I think this just means you shouldn't be climbing to the right of it but can use the arete itself, as otherwise it certainly won't be 5b. Some good moves and the gear is ok though spaced. Was quite windy, which added to the excitement. Quality belly flop landing, hand to pull Su up the last bit by hand as she got stuck!
pro much worse than it appears from below! two of the the useful looking breaks in the top half are too shallow for meaningful gear
fireman ian, guido
|Richard Gilbert||21/Aug/10||2nd dog||
Fun route - on second! One fall - amusing barndoor
|Dave Foster||24/Jul/10||Lead rpt||
One fall early on. Lowered and started again. Stepped round right to ledge at half height to gather myself and pressed off Right Unconquerable crack near the top. Still felt necky and not low in the grade to me!
|chris sm||24/Jul/10||2nd rpt|
|Somerset swede basher||03/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
|Nick Taylor||28/May/10||Lead O/S||
steady easy moves (spoiler alert) 0 size cam needed. e2?
It's possible a hand may have strayed too far right at times if you're supposed to use purely the arete (which seems kind of eliminate) but still felt fairly exciting given the gear.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||04/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
|Matt Bennett||04/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
john swan, adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||15/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
|metal arms||15/Mar/09||Lead O/S|
|joe c ook||?/Sep/08||2nd O/S||
|Simon Holden (LCandCC)||17/Aug/08||2nd O/S||
|Dave Rumney||17/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
A fine route, i took a direct finish with an interesting mantle!
a touch artificial, serious but worthwhile
|Dan 85||05/Mar/08||2nd O/S|
|Owen W-G||21/Oct/07||Lead O/S||
Easy for grade, but note one hard un-pro move just BEFORE the gear. If it wasn't so escapable, and it didn't nick the RU bellyflop finish, it might deserve another star.
|joe larner||27/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
A little damp. Didn't like the gear at half height, but good route.
|adam carless||21/May/07||2nd O/S||
Not sure the description is right about where the crux is, I definitely found the lower moves harder.
|Mick B||24/Mar/07||2nd rpt||
|irish paul||03/Feb/07||2nd O/S||
Andy's first E2, wonder about stepping round the arete
|Pete Graham||??/2007||Lead O/S||
|Jim Vach||12/Oct/06||Lead O/S||
|Luke Brooks||30/Aug/06||2nd O/S|
|Si dH||10/Aug/06||2nd O/S||
Good lead Neil. Pathetic protection at half height for moves to deep break, which were quite tough (5a/b?) Crux on slopers above this was awkward in the wind. Managed to top out with a mantle rather than a flop this time :)
|Morgan Woods||08/Jul/06||Lead O/S||
got a crap small cam in below the crux....but mainly psychological pro.
|Mark A Humphries||07/Nov/05||Lead β||
|Ram MkiV||??/2005||Lead O/S||
|Cragrat Rich||?/Aug/03||Lead O/S||
My first E2 lead, early in my climbing career. Was going well one day at stanage and it just screamed at me to go for it. Didn`t really think or get concerned, just ate it up. One of my most perfect grit experiences
|Mark Collins||13/Apr/03||Lead O/S||
|mike bridges||08/Jun/85||TR O/S||