UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for the Direct but make hard moves up and right to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Continue through a bulge to finish. Same grade but easier than the Direct. The direct start is a very reachy f6A. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1930s.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Monk 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. Nice delicate and committing moves. Ok they aren't high, but the landing isn't good. I soloed it because the gear looked worthless anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. Nice delicate and committing moves. Ok they aren't high, but the landing isn't good. I soloed it because the gear looked worthless anyway.
ste 29 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: fell off and all the gear ripped which wasnt a surprise so finally did protected by a skyhook weighted down with friends. went up and foot traversed the handholds. still a stupid route
Show beta
βeta: fell off and all the gear ripped which wasnt a surprise so finally did protected by a skyhook weighted down with friends. went up and foot traversed the handholds. still a stupid route
Chris the Tall 14 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I was able to make a long, precarious reach across to the ledge, though a shorter (& lighter) person could probably make more use of the holds in between.
Show beta
βeta: I was able to make a long, precarious reach across to the ledge, though a shorter (& lighter) person could probably make more use of the holds in between.

Logged Ascents

195 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scoop Wall

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

Loading Notifications...