Rockfax Description
Start as for the last route but make hard moves up and right to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Continue through a bulge to finish. Almost a full grade easier than the Direct.
The direct start is a very reachy f6A. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Continuing straight up the rib is harder and bolder (E3?)

FA. Eric Byne 1930s 1935

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

deacondeacon 25/Oct Lead O/S

Barely onsight as I've climbed down from the starting moves on a few occasions and have done the direct start a few years ago. Didn't put any gear in the scabby flake in case it blew but there's a pretty good microcam placement just below it. I thought it was a pretty crap route to be honest :(

Matt Groom 08/Oct Solo
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Apr Solo O/S
with The Famous Grouse
Gudge 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Got a decent microcam on arete but still felt a bit precarious moving right. Nice moves - good route!

with Helen B
helin 06/Jun/14 2nd
with chris
tim.fairhall 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Hui
alooker 01/Jun/14 Lead

Looks like a good hold has come off, e25c

hutchay 31/May/14 Lead dnf

Flake seemed damaged and opens under force, rocked up and over and then got stuck, tried to reverse but fell.

with Miriam Billig
Sidekick 10/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Wayne S 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Cliff
samt ??/2013 -
willsm11 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
nai 23/Jul/12 2nd β
disturbed_one51 20/May/12 Solo
ellis 11/May/12 Sent O/S
john lynch 24/Apr/12 Solo
with Lewis Stewart
Hidden ??/2012 -
cobweb 11/Jun/11 Lead
with martyn hopson
JamieSparkes 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
uphillnow ??/2011 -
masonwoods101 ??/2011 Lead O/S

went back recently and i think the starting gear flake is damaged. mid e2 on solo

jfane ??/2011 Solo O/S
Tez29 28/May/10 Solo O/S
with Tom, Ivan
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with john swan, adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Brown 20/Jul/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
charley 14/Jun/09 TR O/S
with Katherine, Geoff, Kev
Tithe Technique 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Charley, Katherine, Geoff
Chris Craggs 10/May/09 TR β
Dan 85 06/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Rich
Tim W 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
gnc760 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Mackie
metal arms 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
ChalkBall 10/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/09 Solo β
john lynch 02/Mar/09 Solo
with rich armour
koopa ??/2009 -
Hidden 24/Sep/08 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 24/Sep/08 Solo O/S

A little scary

with PeakDJ
Hidden 21/Jul/08 Lead dnf
Franco Cookson OLD 14/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Joe Dove 13/Jul/08 2nd
Misha 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Mantelshelf finish was pretty hard - looks like a small nodule broke off recently which might have made it easier in the past?

Matthallinan 24/Jun/08 Lead
with tom haigh
TomHaigh 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
tom.e 24/May/08 Solo O/S
Ian Parnell 12/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
bullybones ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Barker ??/2008 Solo O/S

After only sleeping for about an hour after a night shift. We decided it was too cold to do The Unconquerables so did a harder solo instead!

with Nick Rabb
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/07 2nd rpt
adam carless 21/May/07 Lead O/S

the flake won't hold gear, and the moves using it felt rather worrying. Possibly not a good route for a hot day.

dannyboy83 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Nicos 05/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
irish paul 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Bad wires

with Ed + Andy F
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Ben1983 30/Sep/06 Solo β
david morse 30/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
drysori ?/Sep/06 Solo O/S

More of a boulder problem really.

nathanmanc ?/Mar/06 Solo β
Boy ??/2006 -
bronsonite 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Mark A Humphries 07/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
shark 05/Oct/05 Solo O/S
reg_measures 23/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ??/2005 Lead
mikeski ??/2005 2nd
Monk ?/Jun/04 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 24/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
cem 21/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
DubyaJamesDubya 05/May/03 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/02 Lead rpt
with Bill G
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 22/May/01 TR
Hidden ?/May/01 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/00 TR
Hidden 19/Jul/00 TR
Hidden 17/Jun/00 Lead
Ropeboy 24/Apr/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/99 TR

Tried to lead it, but wimped out. Also did the left arete variant

Hidden 27/Apr/97 Solo
NeilGriffiths 19/Apr/97 Lead
NeilGriffiths 19/Apr/97 -
with Kerry
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Solo
Trobbo 03/Sep/95 TR
with john blower
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/93 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 19/Apr/92 Solo

Also did the direct start.

WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Dec/91 Solo
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 07/Dec/91 Solo
with David
Roget 05/Oct/91 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/91 Lead
rob.grafton 14/Oct/90 Solo
with Bruce
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/89 Solo
stp 09/Jun/89 Solo O/S
IanGilbertJones ??/1989 TR
Gambit 07/Sep/88 Lead O/S

Soloed up, fiddled in the runners 7 or 8 if I remember correctly (the were all very poor). Asked a bypasser to hold my ropes and lead my first E2.

with Alone
Rob Davies ?/Sep/88 2nd


goi.ashmore 23/Apr/88 Solo O/S
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
Chris Ellis 12/Jul/87 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden 26/Jun/86 Lead
GordonHart ??/1985 Solo O/S
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Mark Kemball 24/May/80 Solo
Nic Robinson 26/Apr/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/76 TR
mikej 26/May/68 Lead dnf
with Mike Lewis
rob.grafton ??/0000 2nd
with Bruce
rob.grafton ??/0000 2nd
with Bruce
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, BWoodward, Pythonist
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set