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Cleft Wing* VS 5b

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Cleft Wing Superdirect >>
[Stretching out across the gap, 1 kb]12m. Start as for the previous routes to reach the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly round the arete to easy ground - weird! © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1953

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

Photo: Stretching out across the gap © Rob Laird
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Great move across the v hands in contact with rock almost all the time
chris p duck - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Nik

Nice technical climbing to start. Dont have to be lanky to do the crux move over the chimney.
ralphio - 2nd - 18/Jun/14

tom_lewis89 - TR - 18/Jun/14 with Chris Pinnell, Nik Hawkins

Fell off the traverse, sucessful second attemp, could get to like it.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 03/Jun/14 with Nik, Chris_P

Colin Scotchford - 2nd - 03/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Si

eburki1 - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with John Max

john max - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Jim Slater

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Mike Hewitt - Lead β - Sep/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Rosh

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Lance - USA

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jul/13

good lead by jem!
shaunhumphreys - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Jem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/13 with Mark Sinclair

Managed to bridge.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom B newbie

date might be wrong,but soloed about this date
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/13

sopaz - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

Fun. deserves more than 1 star surly?
Palmer - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with paul renwick

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Bart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/12

Alex@home - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

max_chan - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Steve Carty

John Roberts (JR) - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Ben Wolstenholme

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Deacon

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Lee Leatherbarrow

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 20/May/12 with Rob Middleton

#36
Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 04/May/12

tom.e - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

adie84 - 2012

Hidden - Solo - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/11

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 15/Jul/11

Just Wow! and a word of warning, Chris pulled out a football sized loose block from where the initial flake meets the capping roof.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Chris, Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11

Andrew Lodge - 2nd - 13/Jun/11 with Steve

wolverine - 11/Jun/11 with Sarah Marks

Ace. Used tall skills to avoid having to fall across the void. Nowhere near 5b though.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Jaime

Joe Grondowski - Solo - 25/May/11 with Lewis Andrew, Tom Churchman

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/11

llamaglama - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Nick, Jam

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jamie

great fun
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Jay C - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10 with Sam W

samwillo - 2nd - 25/Oct/10 with Jay

andy_e - Lead dog - 12/Oct/10

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Jamie Sparkes

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Danny Crump - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Michael Hyde

hailtryfan - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Danny

Hidden - Solo - 21/Apr/10

Jay J - Lead - 08/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Aufton - Lead O/S - 2010

GrahamHP - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with bernie sosin

very straight forward. Vs 5A. Could see how short people would find it harder. Very windy day
craig d - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Simon Kincaid

gazfellows - 2nd - 06/Aug/09

Will Cox - Lead β - 29/Jun/09

schaff - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Mikkel

Hidden - Solo - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 24/May/09

jameshall - 2nd O/S - 01/May/09 with Tom Blond

Thinker01 - Lead - 25/Apr/09 with Bec

danm - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Sion

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Brown - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Solo

lowersharpnose - Solo - 02/Apr/09

Brilliant..dithered until figured out how to do it, then it was relatively easy...commit to the flop! Really interesting.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

will6459 - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with James J

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2009

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Great fun, one of the stranger routes on grit.
slacky - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Ben

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with James Burbage

Very enjoyable
sparkass - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08

Hidden - Solo - 15/Sep/08

Quality.
Shauna - 2nd - 14/Jul/08 with Nick Willis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08

Matthallinan - 2nd - 24/Jun/08 with tom haigh

TomHaigh - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Jon Winter

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Chris Thomas

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with MeMeMe

Fell off the start but didn't weight the rope 'cause no gear in, hoorah!
MeMeMe - Lead - 09/Jun/08 with Secret Squirrel

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Kirsten

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/08

Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Mike Pinder

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/08

a strange route, but great non the less
roberto18 - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Tom Nickols

mic_b - Lead O/S - 02/May/08

Hidden - Solo - 22/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Solo rpt - 12/Feb/08

Hidden - Solo - 05/Jan/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/07

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/07 with Pat Holborn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07

Great fun - almost as much as BAW's.
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Dad

stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/06 with solo

Piers Harley - 2nd - 04/Jun/06 with Rob Laird

Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - 2006

SteveM - Lead - 22/Oct/05 with Mike

Jon Dittman - Lead - 16/Oct/05

Start felt more like 5a than 5b
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 06/Oct/05 with Colin Binks

MKH - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/02

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

bigphil - Solo - 24/May/98

ajc - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/96

IanD353 - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/91

babymoac - 2nd - 16/Jun/90 with Alan S, Vic L

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mikej, JanBella, Hidden, steveth, jeffsheard, ben_250, Hidden, kyt341k

Voting
Total votes cast 90
hard HVS0 of 30
HVS0 of 30
easy HVS3 of 30
hard VS14 of 30
VS12 of 30
easy VS1 of 30
hard HS0 of 30
HS0 of 30
easy HS0 of 30
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c0 of 28
hard 5b0 of 28
5b18 of 28
easy 5b1 of 28
hard 5a9 of 28
5a0 of 28
easy 5a0 of 28
3 Stars14 of 32
2 Stars16 of 32
1 Star2 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed28 of 144 (19.4%)
Lead65 of 144 (45.1%)
Followed37 of 144 (25.7%)
Toproped1 of 144 (0.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 144 (1.4%)
Unknown11 of 144 (7.6%)

'Climbed'60 of 144 (41.7%)
clean O/S75 of 144 (52.1%)
clean β2 of 144 (1.4%)
clean rpt6 of 144 (4.2%)
dogged1 of 144 (0.7%)