Cleft Wing** VS 5b
[Wayne about to start the roof part of cleft wing super direct at Stanage, 2 kb]12m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly round the arete to easy ground. Weird and not recommended for the short who may end up with a cleft skull! © ROCKFAX


FA. Joe Brown 1953

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

Photo: Wayne about to start the roof part of cleft wing super direct at Stanage © waydan
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

TobyA - 2nd β - 01/Aug/15 with TonyB

20 of 24 on attempted VS challenge
TonyB - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15 with TobyA

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/15

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 18/Jul/15 with Bart

Dewi is 5ft 6 and seemed to manage OK. To be fair I think it was easier for me at 6 ft.... Unlikely route but fun.
keitht - 2nd - 11/Jul/15 with Dewi Turton

dewiturton - Lead - 11/Jul/15 with keitht

17 Falling towards a hold isn't a natural move to make, getting your feet to follow suit then adds interest, good fun.
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Paul Deane

Weird and wonderful.
MYox - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

It's all in your head, I reached and I'm a short arse.
jonhowson - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Mark

Repeat
jshields - 2nd - 30/May/15 with Mike Irwin, Jonathan Harrison

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/15

Enjoyed this. The initial slab moves were more interesting than the top half, which is straight forward for the lanky and flexible.
ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Duncan Bell

Dan Hostford - Solo O/S - 23/May/15 with Alun Freem

morganator - Solo O/S - 21/May/15 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Solo O/S - 21/May/15 with jon morgan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15

Chris M - AltLd - 10/May/15 with Jim

Fell off
alaster tonge - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/15 with Assad Lahlou

such a fun route, love the dyno!
Tom Pillow - Lead - 05/Apr/15 with David Pillow

Great fun! A committing leap required which is quite a stretch for the short!
mattpw - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Nick Butler

For me the crux was the technical slab, which was rather green.
kp64zl - Lead - Apr/15 with Julian M

Odd but delightful climb. A tricky slab leads to a remarkable move across the gap. Managed to walk one hand across the roof till I was committed to the 'fall'. A one off :-)
Ropeboy - Lead - 06/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/14

100 IAD No. 63 - I love this route!
sparkass - Solo rpt - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - Solo rpt - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/14

Boy - Solo - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14

Nice technical climbing to start. Dont have to be lanky to do the crux move over the chimney.
ralphio - 2nd - 18/Jun/14 with Nik

tom_lewis89 - TR - 18/Jun/14 with Chris Pinnell, Nik Hawkins

Fell off the traverse, sucessful second attemp, could get to like it.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 03/Jun/14 with Nik, Chris_P

Colin Scotchford - 2nd - 03/May/14

MTL - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Donnie McAusland

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Si

eburki1 - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with John Max

john max - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Jim Slater

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

Mike Hewitt - Lead β - Sep/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Rosh

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Lance - USA

JayAsh - 2nd O/S - Aug/13

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jul/13

good lead by jem!
shaunhumphreys - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Jem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/13 with Mark Sinclair

Managed to bridge.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom B newbie

date might be wrong,but soloed about this date
Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/13

sopaz - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

Fun. deserves more than 1 star surly?
Palmer - Lead - 02/Mar/13 with paul renwick

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Bart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/12

Alex@home - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

max_chan - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Steve Carty

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Deacon

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Lee Leatherbarrow

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 20/May/12 with Rob Middleton

#36
Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 04/May/12

tom.e - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

adie84 - 2012

Hidden - Solo - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/11

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 15/Jul/11

Just Wow! and a word of warning, Chris pulled out a football sized loose block from where the initial flake meets the capping roof.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Chris, Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11

Andrew Lodge - 2nd - 13/Jun/11 with Steve

Hidden - 11/Jun/11

Ace. Used tall skills to avoid having to fall across the void. Nowhere near 5b though.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Jaime

Joe Grondowski - Solo - 25/May/11 with Lewis Andrew, Tom Churchman

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/11

llamaglama - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Nick, Jam

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jamie

great fun
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire Holland

uphillnow - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Jay C - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10 with Sam W

samwillo - 2nd - 25/Oct/10 with Jay

andy_e - Lead dog - 12/Oct/10

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Jamie Sparkes

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Mike Tempest

mtempest - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Steve Waters, Mynydd

Danny Crump - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Michael Hyde

hailtryfan - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Danny

Hidden - Solo - 21/Apr/10

Jay J - Lead - 08/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Aufton - Lead O/S - 2010

GrahamHP - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with bernie sosin

very straight forward. Vs 5A. Could see how short people would find it harder. Very windy day
craig d - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Simon Kincaid

gazfellows - 2nd - 06/Aug/09

Will Cox - Lead β - 29/Jun/09

schaff - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Mikkel

Hidden - Solo - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 24/May/09

jameshall - 2nd O/S - 01/May/09 with Tom Blond

Thinker01 - Lead - 25/Apr/09 with Bec

danm - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Sion

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Brown - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Solo

lowersharpnose - Solo - 02/Apr/09

Brilliant..dithered until figured out how to do it, then it was relatively easy...commit to the flop! Really interesting.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2009

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with James Burbage

Very enjoyable
sparkass - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08

Hidden - Solo - 15/Sep/08

Quality.
Shauna - 2nd - 14/Jul/08 with Nick Willis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08

Matthallinan - 2nd - 24/Jun/08 with tom haigh

TomHaigh - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Jon Winter

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Chris Thomas

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with MeMeMe

Fell off the start but didn't weight the rope 'cause no gear in, hoorah!
MeMeMe - Lead - 09/Jun/08 with Secret Squirrel

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Kirsten

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/08

Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Mike Pinder

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/08

a strange route, but great non the less
roberto18 - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Tom Nickols

mic_b - Lead O/S - 02/May/08

Hidden - Solo - 22/Apr/08

Hidden - Solo rpt - 12/Feb/08

Hidden - Solo - 05/Jan/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/07

pad-rat - Solo - 09/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/07

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/07 with Pat Holborn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07

Great fun - almost as much as BAW's.
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Dad

stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/06 with solo

Piers Harley - 2nd - 04/Jun/06 with Rob Laird

Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - 2006

SteveM - Lead - 22/Oct/05 with Mike

Jon Dittman - Lead - 16/Oct/05

Start felt more like 5a than 5b
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 06/Oct/05 with Colin Binks

MKH - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/02

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

bigphil - Solo - 24/May/98

ajc - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/91

babymoac - 2nd - 16/Jun/90 with Alan S, Vic L

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
humptydumpty, adam84, hthom, TClimb, mikej, JanBella, steveth, AsleepOnBelay, ben_250, kyt341k

Voting
Total votes cast 112
hard HVS0 of 39
HVS0 of 39
easy HVS4 of 39
hard VS17 of 39
VS16 of 39
easy VS2 of 39
hard HS0 of 39
HS0 of 39
easy HS0 of 39
hard 5c0 of 35
5c0 of 35
easy 5c0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 35
5b21 of 35
easy 5b3 of 35
hard 5a9 of 35
5a2 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
3 Stars16 of 38
2 Stars16 of 38
1 Star6 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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