Rockfax Description
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish easily. Feels bold, though the tall can make quite a bit of progress with their feet still on the slabby wall - cheaters. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

Nick1812P 25/Oct Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 25/Oct 2nd
Sam Simpson 22/Sep Solo O/S
with Dave Turnbull
Andrew Barker 10/Sep Solo O/S
Ciderslider 07/Sep Lead O/S

I thought the traverse part of this was good value for VS !!

with Ben
Hidden 16/Aug Lead rpt
Lukem6 12/Aug Lead O/S
with group day
Hidden 09/Aug AltLd
John Higgs 08/Aug Solo rpt
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 08/Aug Lead O/S

No. 16

TobyA 01/Aug 2nd β

Tried leading first but backed off.

with TonyB
TonyB 01/Aug Lead β

19 of 24 on attempted VS challenge

with TobyA
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
bullwinkle 18/Jul 2nd O/S
with Bart
keitht 11/Jul Lead

Hard moves at the start of the traverse.

with Dewi Turton
dewiturton 11/Jul 2nd
with keitht
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun 2nd O/S

18 Some heroic moves to get to some super jugs

with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Jon
jonhowson 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Really good

with Mark
Hidden 28/May Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May Lead rpt
with Duncan Bell
morganator 21/May Solo O/S
soph 21/May Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
Chris M 10/May AltLd
daviesp2 04/May 2nd
Curly Rich 04/May 2nd O/S
with gmc
kp64zl ?/May Lead
with Steve OMC
Hidden 07/Apr Lead
Ropeboy 06/Mar Lead

Probably stiff for the grade compared to other routes of the same grade. Poor feet and tricky traverse lead to a glorious swing round the arÍte to an easy finish.

robgixer ??/2015 -
max_dickens 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

With Dwains gear in the corner

Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
fifth 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

What a climb! Great once you know how!

with Ash
John Higgs 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Off route. I bridged it.

with Ollie
olliehales 21/Sep/14 2nd
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
anne Pickup 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 05/Mar/14 Solo

is it usual to find yourself hanging whith one hand on a vs

Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
JenRoberts 25/Sep/13 2nd dnf
with Lee
knighty 14/Sep/13 2nd

I came back and finished what I started! What a brutal hand traverse. Surely this is not a VS 4c? Are you supposed to bridge out of the cave??

Subwaycups 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

very very nice joe brown route

JamieSparkes 19/Aug/13 Solo O/S


with Nick
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Martin Bagshaw 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Johns legs currently not long enough for this climb

with John Andrews
Hoyes 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Simon C
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Anyes Varenne
anyes varenne 20/Feb/13 2nd
knighty 13/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...

ChrisBrooke 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Monika Inkpen
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18

mol 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Jesse
deacondeacon 20/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..

with deborah
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
Oceanic 17/Jun/12 2nd
adam carless 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
SecretSquirrel 17/Jun/12 Lead

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it

R0bbie 13/Apr/12 2nd
with Taba
tom.e 23/Mar/12 Solo O/S
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Leader Training with University

Peakpdr 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with P. Mitchell
sgl0jd ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
moberg 02/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Getting up the corner easy enough, but didn't like the lack of footholds on the hand traverse while trying to place gear. VS feels a bit misleading.

geddicakes 11/Jun/11 2nd
waydan ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.

with Peris, El Swiftos
fatbuoybazza 29/May/11 2nd O/S

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.

with jim
Jim Malo 29/May/11 Lead rpt
with Barry
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 26/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd dnf
Jim Malo 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Putt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Stig 30/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Cool. last route, home by midday

tri-nitro-toulumne 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rosie Morrison
Chris Craggs 15/Aug/10 2nd

Long legs sure help!

with Colin Binks
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
IanMulvany 22/May/10 Lead O/S

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.

with Daniel Keller
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
lithos 18/Apr/10 Lead

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them

with Crofty
Hidden 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Stephen
sdht 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Eustace
highrepute 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Solo
schaff 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
Monk 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Brown 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo O/S
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with luke
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!

tom_1985 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Thomas
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead dnf
Eccentric 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
wahniel 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd rpt
SecretSquirrel 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Nicos 24/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
SteveM ??/2006 Lead
with Mike
Snowie 27/Sep/03 Lead dnf

Failed Miserably! Another 'Must try when fresher...' climb!

beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gilgar ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Roget 06/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/May/96 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 31/May/91 Lead
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
mikej 16/Oct/66 2nd dnf
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 20/May/65 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, adam84, hthom, pete_naylor, mikej, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set