Cleft Wing Superdirect* VS 4c
12m. Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand-traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish easily. Feels bold, though the tall can make quite a bit of progress with their feet still on the slabby wall - cheaters. © ROCKFAX

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

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This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/14

wolverine - AltLd - 01/Nov/14 with Mike Lea

What a climb! Great once you know how!
fifth - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/14 with Ash

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

Boy - Solo - 19/Aug/14

chris p duck - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Nik

anne Pickup - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14

is it usual to find yourself hanging whith one hand on a vs
Andy Peak 1 - Solo - 05/Mar/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

JenRoberts - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/13 with Lee

I came back and finished what I started! What a brutal hand traverse. Surely this is not a VS 4c? Are you supposed to bridge out of the cave??
knighty - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with Andy Wallace, Rob Howard

Subwaycups - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with knighty, Rob H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

very very nice joe brown route
leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Sep/13

JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Nick

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/13

Nice route, really positive holds.
MTL - Solo rpt - 24/Jun/13

Johns legs currently not long enough for this climb
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/13 with John Andrews

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Simon C

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Anyes Varenne

anyes varenne - 2nd - 20/Feb/13 with Sebastien Gastaud

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...
knighty - Lead dnf - 13/Nov/12 with Tom Parker

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18
Alex@home - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

mol - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Jesse

deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..
fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/12 with deborah

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

Oceanic - 2nd - 17/Jun/12

adam carless - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with James Rowe

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 17/Jun/12

R0bbie - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with Taba

tom.e - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Leader Training with University
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - Mar/12

pauldr - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with P. Mitchell

sgl0jd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Getting up the corner easy enough, but didn't like the lack of footholds on the hand traverse while trying to place gear. VS feels a bit misleading.
moberg - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/11

geddicakes - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.
waydan - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Peris, El Swiftos

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.
fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with jim

Jim Malo - Lead rpt - 29/May/11 with Barry

Needed nerve and arms. Gave up attempt to lead. Well done Nick - plenty of adrenalin just seconding!
JohnHutch - 2nd - 26/Apr/11 with Nik H, L

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 20/Mar/11

Jim Malo - Lead dog - 06/Mar/11 with Putt

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/10

Cool. last route, home by midday
Stig - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/10

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Rosie Morrison

Long legs sure help!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.
IanMulvany - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Daniel Keller

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them
lithos - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Crofty

slacky - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09

daveclarke5 - Lead dog - 17/Oct/09 with Stephen

sdht - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Andy Eustace

highrepute - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jun/09

schaff - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Mikkel

Monk - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Matt Hartgrove

Brown - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Solo


kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2009

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!
Reaver2k - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/08 with Matt Marshall

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Chris Thomas

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/May/08

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

wahniel - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/07

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with adam carless

stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/06 with solo

SteveM - Lead - 2006 with Mike

beermonkey - 2nd - Aug/03 with Mr Binks

Hidden - Lead - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Pete Nugent - Lead - 21/Apr/02 with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/02

Hidden - 2000

Gilgar - Lead O/S - 1999 with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack

Roget - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/96

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/91

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1986

mikej - 2nd dnf - 16/Oct/66 with Keith Gregson

Hidden - TR - 20/May/65

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Total votes cast 47
hard HVS0 of 17
HVS0 of 17
easy HVS0 of 17
hard VS7 of 17
VS10 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard HS0 of 17
HS0 of 17
easy HS0 of 17
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
hard 4c3 of 16
4c13 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
hard 4b0 of 16
4b0 of 16
easy 4b0 of 16
3 Stars1 of 14
2 Stars10 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
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