Cleft Wing Superdirect* VS 4c

Rockfax Description
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish easily. Feels bold, though the tall can make quite a bit of progress with their feet still on the slabby wall - cheaters. © ROCKFAX

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

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This climb is in 136 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Sam Simpson - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/15 with Dave Turnbull

Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 10/Sep/15

I thought the traverse part of this was good value for VS !!
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/15 with Ben

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/15

Lukem6 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15 with group day

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/15

John Higgs - Solo rpt - 08/Aug/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/15

No. 16
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Maia Hunnex

Tried leading first but backed off.
TobyA - 2nd β - 01/Aug/15 with TonyB

19 of 24 on attempted VS challenge
TonyB - Lead β - 01/Aug/15 with TobyA

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Bart

Hard moves at the start of the traverse.
keitht - Lead - 11/Jul/15 with Dewi Turton

dewiturton - 2nd - 11/Jul/15 with keitht

18 Some heroic moves to get to some super jugs
Andrew Abraham - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Paul Deane

MYox - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Jon

Really good
jonhowson - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/15

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 23/May/15 with Duncan Bell

morganator - Solo O/S - 21/May/15 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Solo O/S - 21/May/15 with jon morgan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/15

Chris M - AltLd - 10/May/15 with Jim Walton

daviesp2 - 2nd - 04/May/15

Curly Rich - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15 with gmc

kp64zl - Lead - May/15 with Steve OMC

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/15

Probably stiff for the grade compared to other routes of the same grade. Poor feet and tricky traverse lead to a glorious swing round the arÍte to an easy finish.
Ropeboy - Lead - 06/Mar/15

With Dwains gear in the corner
max_dickens - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/14

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/14

What a climb! Great once you know how!
fifth - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/14 with Ash

Off route. I bridged it.
John Higgs - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Ollie

selahilo - 2nd - 21/Sep/14 with John Higgs

Boy - Solo - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14

anne Pickup - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14

is it usual to find yourself hanging whith one hand on a vs
Andy Peak 1 - Solo - 05/Mar/14

Alfie Conn - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

JenRoberts - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/13 with Lee

I came back and finished what I started! What a brutal hand traverse. Surely this is not a VS 4c? Are you supposed to bridge out of the cave??
knighty - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with Andy Wallace, Rob Howard

Subwaycups - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with knighty, Rob H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

very very nice joe brown route
leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Sep/13

JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Nick

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 24/Jun/13

Johns legs currently not long enough for this climb
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/13 with John Andrews

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Simon C

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Anyes Varenne

anyes varenne - 2nd - 20/Feb/13 with Sebastien Gastaud

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...
knighty - Lead dnf - 13/Nov/12 with Tom Parker

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18
Alex@home - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

mol - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Jesse

deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..
fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/12 with deborah

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

Oceanic - 2nd - 17/Jun/12

adam carless - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with James Rowe

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 17/Jun/12

R0bbie - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with Taba

tom.e - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Leader Training with University
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Peakpdr - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with P. Mitchell

sgl0jd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Getting up the corner easy enough, but didn't like the lack of footholds on the hand traverse while trying to place gear. VS feels a bit misleading.
moberg - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/11

geddicakes - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.
waydan - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Peris, El Swiftos

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.
fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with jim

Jim Malo - Lead rpt - 29/May/11 with Barry

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 20/Mar/11

Jim Malo - Lead dog - 06/Mar/11 with Putt

uphillnow - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/10

Cool. last route, home by midday
Stig - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/10

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Rosie Morrison

Long legs sure help!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.
IanMulvany - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Daniel Keller

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them
lithos - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Crofty

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09

daveclarke5 - Lead dog - 17/Oct/09 with Stephen

sdht - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Andy Eustace

highrepute - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jun/09

schaff - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Mikkel

Monk - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Matt Hartgrove

Brown - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Solo


kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2009

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!
Reaver2k - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/08 with Matt Marshall

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Chris Thomas

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/May/08

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/08

Hidden - 2008

wahniel - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/07

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with adam carless

stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/06 with solo

SteveM - Lead - 2006 with Mike

Failed Miserably! Another 'Must try when fresher...' climb!
Snowie - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/03

beermonkey - 2nd - Aug/03 with Mr Binks

Hidden - Lead - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Pete Nugent - Lead - 21/Apr/02 with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/02

Hidden - 2000

Gilgar - Lead O/S - 1999 with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack

Roget - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/96

nai - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/91

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1986

mikej - 2nd dnf - 16/Oct/66 with Keith Gregson

Hidden - TR - 20/May/65

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, adam84, hthom, pete_naylor, mikej

Total votes cast 62
hard HVS0 of 23
HVS1 of 23
easy HVS0 of 23
hard VS11 of 23
VS11 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard HS0 of 23
HS0 of 23
easy HS0 of 23
hard 5a0 of 22
5a2 of 22
easy 5a0 of 22
hard 4c6 of 22
4c14 of 22
easy 4c0 of 22
hard 4b0 of 22
4b0 of 22
easy 4b0 of 22
3 Stars1 of 17
2 Stars11 of 17
1 Star4 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....1 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat