Rockfax Description
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish easily. Feels bold, though the tall can make quite a bit of progress with their feet still on the slabby wall - cheaters. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Brown & Whillans Stanage.

Mongoose 22/Oct Lead RP

Accidentally cut loose onto just my right hand. Campused across. Not elegant, but impressed the watching Freshers!

gav 15/Oct Lead dog

Had given up by this point, so without extra motivation bottled properly committing. With my gear tested, I didn't really have an excuse, so pulled back on and finished it. Last route of the day, just as the sun was coming out.

jwdickinson25 15/Oct 2nd
with gav
tom_lewis89 02/Oct Lead dog

Faffed with cams then had to dangle for a moment. Def repeat.

adam clarke 25/Sep Lead O/S
with James Hulme, Adam Lynch
lynchit 25/Sep 2nd dnf
Vilius A. 17/Sep AltLd O/S
with Rob Powell
AshBash 31/Aug Lead dnf
Dan Vaj 30/Aug 2nd rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 30/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug 2nd
MusicalMountaineer 06/Aug Lead
with Barrie
Barrie Schofield II 06/Aug 2nd
James_Kendal 06/Aug 2nd

Took a huge but safe swing on second, after removing the gear on the traverse. Got it second time.

Hidden 14/Jul 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 07/Jul Solo
spragglerocks 03/Jul Lead O/S
with John
ned_85 03/Jul 2nd
Senna 03/Jul Lead O/S
with Ned
Hidden 03/Jul 2nd
djones66 26/Jun Lead dog

Found this spmewhat desparate, especially for a VC 4c. Felt harder! Cold hands and lack of reach may have been factors. Safe though - good gear o the traverse. At one point ended up hanging entirely on one hand - not normal VS territory.

with Stve mc D
Dan Vaj 28/May 2nd O/S
with Khalid
khalidq 28/May Lead O/S

Flattering hence fun.

Hidden 24/May Lead O/S
ColinD 17/May 2nd
with Keith
MSchobitz 16/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May Lead
Jake Young 14/May Solo rpt
Tim Rodgers 09/May Lead
john lynch 22/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Apr Lead O/S
paul79 01/Apr Lead
Hidden 22/Mar AltLd O/S
MischaHY 21/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Mar Lead rpt
Jake Young 13/Mar 2nd O/S

Stanage VS Challenge 20 out of 36.

Nick1812P 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 25/Oct/15 2nd
Sam Simpson 22/Sep/15 Solo O/S
with Dave Turnbull
Andrew Barker 10/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Ciderslider 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

I thought the traverse part of this was good value for VS !!

with Ben
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Lukem6 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with group day
Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd
John Higgs 08/Aug/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Maia
TobyA 01/Aug/15 2nd β

Tried leading first but backed off.

with TonyB
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead β
tebs 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Definitely cheated

with Tim
HimTiggins 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Bart
keitht 11/Jul/15 Lead

Hard moves at the start of the traverse.

dewiturton 11/Jul/15 2nd
with keitht
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S

18 Some heroic moves to get to some super jugs

with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jon
jonhowson 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Really good

with Mark
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May/15 Lead rpt
with Duncan Bell
morganator 21/May/15 Solo O/S
soph 21/May/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
daviesp2 04/May/15 2nd
Curly Rich 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with gmc
kp64zl ?/May/15 Lead
with Steve OMC
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
Ropeboy 06/Mar/15 Lead

Probably stiff for the grade compared to other routes of the same grade. Poor feet and tricky traverse lead to a glorious swing round the arÍte to an easy finish.

robgixer ??/2015 -
max_dickens 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

With Dwains gear in the corner

Mike_Hayes 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Mike Lea
Scott Anderson 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

What a climb! Great once you know how!

with Ash
John Higgs 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Off route. I bridged it.

with Ollie
olliehales 21/Sep/14 2nd
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
anne Pickup 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 05/Mar/14 Solo

is it usual to find yourself hanging whith one hand on a vs

Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
JenRoberts 25/Sep/13 2nd dnf
with Lee
knighty 14/Sep/13 2nd

I came back and finished what I started! What a brutal hand traverse. Surely this is not a VS 4c? Are you supposed to bridge out of the cave??

Subwaycups 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

very very nice joe brown route

Hidden 19/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Martin Bagshaw 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Johns legs currently not long enough for this climb

with John Andrews
Hoyes 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Simon C
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Anyes Varenne
anyes varenne 20/Feb/13 2nd
knighty 13/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...

ChrisBrooke 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Monika Inkpen
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18

mol 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Jesse
deacondeacon 20/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..

with deborah
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
Oceanic 17/Jun/12 2nd
adam carless 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
SecretSquirrel 17/Jun/12 Lead

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it

Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
R0bbie 13/Apr/12 2nd
with Taba
tom.e 23/Mar/12 Solo O/S
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Leader Training with University

Peakpdr 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with P. Mitchell
sgl0jd ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
moberg 02/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Getting up the corner easy enough, but didn't like the lack of footholds on the hand traverse while trying to place gear. VS feels a bit misleading.

geddicakes 11/Jun/11 2nd
waydan ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.

with Peris, El Swiftos
fatbuoybazza 29/May/11 2nd O/S

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.

with jim
Jim Malo 29/May/11 Lead rpt
with Barry
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 26/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd dnf
Jim Malo 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Putt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Stig 30/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Cool. last route, home by midday

tri-nitro-tuolumne 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rosie Morrison
Chris Craggs 15/Aug/10 2nd

Long legs sure help!

with Colin Binks
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
IanMulvany 22/May/10 Lead O/S

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.

with Daniel Keller
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
lithos 18/Apr/10 Lead

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them

with Crofty
Hidden 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Stephen
sdht 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Eustace
highrepute 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
schaff 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
Monk 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Brown 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo O/S
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with luke
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!

tom_1985 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Thomas
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead dnf
Eccentric 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
wahniel 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd rpt
SecretSquirrel 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Nicos 24/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
SteveM ??/2006 Lead
with Mike
Snowie 27/Sep/03 Lead dnf

Failed Miserably! Another 'Must try when fresher...' climb!

beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gilgar ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Roget 06/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/May/96 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Bolehillbilly 31/May/91 Lead
with Andy Scott
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
mikej 16/Oct/66 2nd dnf
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 20/May/65 TR
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
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Votes cast 23
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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