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Cleft Wing Superdirect* VS 4c

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<< Cleft Wing
 
Trimming the Beard >>
12m. Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess then hand traverse the overhanging right-hand wall. Swing round the arete and finish more easily. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide).

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 83 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Anyes Varenne

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13

anyes varenne - 2nd - 20/Feb/13 with Sebastien Gastaud

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...
knighty - Lead dnf - 13/Nov/12 with Tom Parker

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18
Alex@home - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Tony Moody

mol - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Jesse

deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..
fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/12 with deborah

John Roberts (JR) - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Ben Wolstenholme

Ben Wolstenholme - Jul/12

Oceanic - 2nd - 17/Jun/12

adam carless - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with James Rowe

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 17/Jun/12

R0bbie - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with Taba

tom.e - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Luke Porter

Leader Training with University
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - Mar/12

pauldr - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with P. Mitchell

sgl0jd - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Getting up the corner easy enough, but didn't like the lack of footholds on the hand traverse while trying to place gear. VS feels a bit misleading.
moberg - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/11

geddicakes - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.
waydan - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Peris, El Swiftos

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.
fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with jim

Jim Malo - Lead rpt - 29/May/11 with Barry

Needed nerve and arms. Gave up attempt to lead. Well done Nick - plenty of adrenalin just seconding!
JohnHutch - 2nd - 26/Apr/11 with Nik H, L

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 20/Mar/11

Jim Malo - Lead dog - 06/Mar/11 with Putt

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/10

Cool. last route, home by midday
Stig - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/10

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Rosie Morrison

Long legs sure help!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.
IanMulvany - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Daniel Keller

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them
lithos - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Crofty

slacky - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09 with Tim

daveclarke5 - Lead dog - 17/Oct/09 with Stephen

sdht - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Andy Eustace

highrepute - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jun/09

schaff - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Mikkel

Monk - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Matt Hartgrove

Brown - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Solo

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

kingholmesy - Solo O/S - 2009

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!
Reaver2k - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/08 with Matt Marshall

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Chris Thomas

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/May/08

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

wahniel - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/07

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/07 with Hazel Robson

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with adam carless

stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/06 with solo

SteveM - Lead - 2006 with Mike

beermonkey - 2nd - Aug/03 with Mr Binks

Mad! :)
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Pete Nugent - Lead - 21/Apr/02 with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/02

Hidden - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/96

nai - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/91

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1986

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Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard HVS0 of 11
HVS0 of 11
easy HVS0 of 11
hard VS4 of 11
VS7 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard HS0 of 11
HS0 of 11
easy HS0 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
hard 4c1 of 11
4c10 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
hard 4b0 of 11
4b0 of 11
easy 4b0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 11
2 Stars8 of 11
1 Star1 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....1 of 11
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Style of ascent

Soloed13 of 83 (15.7%)
Lead45 of 83 (54.2%)
Followed16 of 83 (19.3%)
Alt Leads2 of 83 (2.4%)
Unknown7 of 83 (8.4%)

'Climbed'28 of 83 (33.7%)
clean O/S39 of 83 (47.0%)
clean rpt6 of 83 (7.2%)
dogged3 of 83 (3.6%)
dnf7 of 83 (8.4%)