Rockfax Description
Make a hard pull on tiny holds to reach the break and a hard finish on poor holds. f6A+ if you sneak off right. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

Hidden 24/Apr Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Apr 2nd
Andy Moles 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Simon
Sam McCarthy 17/Apr Lead G/U
phil64 10/Apr -

great for the tall.... or good?

with phil baker, Andy Bowman
melv 03/Apr Lead dog
with Fi
Jim Slater 25/Mar Lead dnf

Sussed out lower moves fairly straightforward, however could not make the final reach for the top, gave up!

Chris M 12/Mar Lead
with Dan G
RFWilkie 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
luke glaister 04/May/15 Lead dog

Gutted. Got to the top and slapped the worst of the holds on offer. Matched hands on it and pinged off. Found a good hold there in the end. This is the hardest grade I've tried to lead onsight on the grit. And my first proper fall on gear.Well pleased.

Chris M 14/Apr/15 -
with Dan G
Smelly Fox 13/Apr/15 Sent O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 -
gazfellows 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Graham
Ewan Russell 31/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with Myself!
Ewano 14/Sep/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 11/Jun/14 Lead
phil64 19/May/14 Solo
Gudge 07/May/14 Solo dnf

Bouldered out start.

Fragmod 03/May/14 Lead

cruised it!!

Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd dog
Albachoss 02/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Dynamic moves unless you are >6ft2

with Andrew.W
Andy Peak 1 04/Feb/14 Lead

nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot

with phill ukc
Andy Peak 1 04/Feb/14 Lead

nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot

with phill ukc
Gudge 31/Oct/13 Sent dnf

Bouldered out start only.

Gudge 31/Oct/13 Sent dnf

Bouldered out start only.

Gudge 08/Oct/13 Sent dnf

Just bouldered out the start.

Gudge 08/Oct/13 Sent dnf

Just bouldered out start again !

tsjx 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Not what I expected. Neither of us could do the final move

with John Mc
simon1965 28/Aug/13 Solo

Just start

with dom
JamieSparkes 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S

RH finish.

with Nick
Nick1812P 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Gudge 02/May/13 Lead dnf
with John Nuttall
jwhereat 14/Apr/13 TR β
RichyBOYY 10/Apr/13 Lead
PeteWilson 10/Apr/13 Lead dnf

fell off last move. top is def the (reachy) crux

with Ric Elliot
JoshT91 24/Feb/13 Solo dnf

Got past the crux but bailed on the high slopers.

Hidden ??/2013 -
dannyboy83 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Leona
mark20 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/12 Lead
with Greg Cunningham
Jake Young 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Haydn Jones 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Milne 19/Sep/12 Lead dnf

did the supposedly hard bit low down, then lowered off gear due to injury woes. top looked much harder than botton if taken direct without flake on right.

with Dave
Whealiebob 19/Sep/12 Lead RP

Bouldered out the first moves, dropped off, then led. Finished using the ramp on the right which I guess is off line...

Boy 09/Sep/12 Lead

Top deffo the crux if climbed direct

with Jon Coe
Gudge ?/Aug/12 Solo dnf
shed_hed 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Alun Freem
Andy Clarke 21/Jul/12 Sent

Highballed. Straight up. Thought start was technical crux - had to pop for the break at my height. Found top pumpy but more straightforward.

Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo

off right

deacondeacon 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Solo O/S
Cake 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jon, Matt
Gustav 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Owen
Hidden 20/Mar/12 Solo dnf
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Solo O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Sent
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Solo
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
john lynch 19/May/11 Sent
Alex@home 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

bouldered out the start before tying in and finishing. last move definitely harder than start

with Mel Holmes
Graeme Hammond 22/Jan/11 Lead RP

2nd attempt at the start, done above a mat, not 2nded but thanks to Jools for the belay :) Top as hard as the bottom if climbed direct.

Hidden 18/Dec/10 Sent
Alex Winter 14/Nov/10 Lead

Thought the crux was at the top.

Hidden 13/Nov/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead
Mr Wild ?/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Stig 30/Aug/10 Sent O/S


with Chris
chrishedgehog 30/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Traversed off when that became sensible, crux was nice though.

with James
FlorianCastagne ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
geddicakes 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Liam, Matthew Parkin
liamoloughlin 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 05/Jun/10 2nd
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 Lead
with chris parson
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
thomasadixon 28/Oct/09 Lead dog

Found the top half nails, bottom half (supposed crux!) went fine.

with Lisa, Alan
Hidden 28/Oct/09 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 28/Oct/09 Lead
with Debbie, loundsy
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
tebs 05/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Solo to first break before escaping right, subsequent attempt to lead it failed on rounded holds straight up, which i found considerably more pumpy and hard then the "fierce pull" which was straightforward. Need to learn how to deal with Stanage roundness.

with David
Tom Last 04/Jul/09 Solo O/S

Finished right. The 'fierce pull' isn't fierce at all. Easy 5c is more like it than 6a. I can't climb 6a, let alone onsight it!

steveb2006 05/Apr/09 2nd dog

Cant do the reachy moves at top, rest

with Roland Smith
Brown 01/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
Katie Marshall 29/Mar/09 2nd

Also clean onsight solo to 1st break.

with Martin, Graeme
Ram MkiV 06/Mar/09 Solo O/S

quality little climb

with lee, al, guy
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/08 Sent
Joe Costello 17/Aug/08 Solo O/S
with Matt and Liam
Hidden 20/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Andre Hedger
Nicos 19/May/08 Solo O/S
galpinos 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 12/Dec/07 Sent
bullwinkle 26/May/07 2nd O/S
with Neil and Mark
Mick B 24/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Steve Pritchard
Pythonist 30/Aug/06 Sent rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist 29/Jun/06 Solo O/S
with Chris Jennions
Hidden 01/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead dog
nathanmanc ?/Mar/06 Solo O/S
Ian Broome 02/May/05 Lead
with Tom
Gus 16/Apr/05 Solo
with ben rouse
Hidden 12/Mar/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Chris M ??/2005 -
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Solo
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
cem 21/Sep/03 2nd
with Liam Mark
mattwyles1 ?/May/03 Solo β
Hidden 21/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/May/00 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Ropeboy 16/Apr/00 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Solo
Stoney Boy 16/Jan/94 Solo O/S
crossleysm ??/1994 Solo


andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
steve taylor ?/Jul/91 Solo
with jon jones
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1990 Solo
goi.ashmore 08/Oct/89 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Dave Musgrove 20/Aug/86 AltLd
Hammy 26/Apr/86 Solo
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/85 Solo
John Marsland 08/Jun/85 Solo
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 02/May/84 Solo
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S

Good little fingery problem

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
thejunglist, Mowglee, Billiam king, Jamesmoly, Hidden, JanBella
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set