The Guillotine** E3 5c
[tom, 1 kb]16m. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake-crack in the nose or the horizontal breaks on the left. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: tom © mwatson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Ran out of steam after traverse under top overhang.
Gudge - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/14 with Bob Pilgrem

WillDoyle - 2nd - 31/May/14

Haydn Jones - Lead β - 04/Mar/14 with andy gardner

After two previous failed attempts , fellt v strait forward
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 04/Mar/14 with Hayden Jones

dominic lee - Lead β - 01/Mar/14 with dave turnbull

Dan Arkle - 2014

jrobbings - 2nd - 2014

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Sep/13

Started on this but finished up Old Dragon after much scurrying back and forth along the cramped traverse.
claregardiner - Lead - 07/Jul/13

Fell standing up in to the crack at the top, got feet wrong and ran out of body tension, then couldn't get back on. Disappointing.
Si dH - 2nd dnf - 19/May/13 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/12

Slipped of the top crux then re-climbed but not recovered enough so had to rest. Felt hard.
jwpil - Lead dog - 21/Oct/12 with Jake

Felt Hard, fell off the top crux, weird moves.
Jake Young - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/12 with Jack

Led clean on preplaced gear from a partners attempt. Felt steady but awkward.
deacondeacon - Lead - 01/Sep/12

barni - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Ewan

redjerry - Lead - Aug/12

finding the finger lock over the roof a great eureka! moment
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with pat

maddy.c - 31/Mar/12

Brown - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with Henry

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11

seconded it first then led it. didnt do the cramped traverse as around 6ft it didnt look nice. great moves near the overhang. maybe E2 5c without traverse.
al123 - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11

Finally got it clean! Even felt fun this time and none too hard :) Tried in 10/10 and found the traverse awful, fell off at the crux, tried again in 4/11 and fell off in the same place.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11 with Becca

wolverine - 11/Jun/11 with Sarah Marks

lead on jon's gear after he fell off. the pull over the roof is a hard fight.
Chi Cheng - Lead β - 06/May/11 with Jon Fane, Rachel Stater

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/11

lead on mostly lukes gear after he bailed off, got comnpletely pumped on the roof and did the same!
Ginger McGrath - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/11 with hannah gibbs

Utterly gutted. Felt solid most of the way, but made the (right 'ard!) under cut move through the roof and started to faulter. Placed a very strenuous wire instead of heal hooking / mantelling to glory and pumped out. Blood was full on gushing from two tips (6 days on the trot on grit!) so lowered of and sulked. Will be back to get it GU soon enough.
lrandall - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/11 with French

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with smacks

David Smith - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

hard move going over the top roof!
Rachel Slater - 2nd dog - 10/Oct/10 with James Moneypenny

Horrible! Found the start really nice but the traverse was pretty awful. Really bunched up even for me and I'm 5'2!!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 10/Oct/10 with Tom

Found traverse extremely bunched-up (I am only 5'11"1/2 though, but with long arms) and the final crack quite nasty, which is where it all ground to a halt. The rest of it is really nice though!
chrishedgehog - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with James

Desperate. Couldn't do the overhang at all. Humiliating.
Stig - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10

Dogmusher - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Marc Weisner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Gazzawatson - 2nd - 12/May/10 with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - 2nd - 09/May/10 with chris parson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - 2nd β - 28/Oct/09

Ben Harper - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Oct/09 with Floris

Matt Shepherd - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

gear in. awkward and quite hard fought most of the way... quite good too though
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 06/Mar/09 with lee, al, guy

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08

sadams - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Catherine Adams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/06 with martina

frost - 2nd - Jun/06 with D Garry

shark - Lead - 29/Apr/06 with Chris Williams

Desperately cold - spindrift coming off the top etc
shark - Lead dnf - 21/Jan/05 with Iain Bisset

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/03 with John Nightingale

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/01

Paz - Lead dnf - Aug/01 with JH2

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/00

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 19/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

Mark Riley - 2nd - May/00 with Richard Ibberson

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead RP - 2000

Boy - 2000

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/97 with Oliver Allen

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/96

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 08/Oct/95

Hidden - 08/Aug/95

Watch that your ropes don't get caught in the crack as you go voer the overhangs!!
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/95 with Olivia Horner

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 02/May/94 with Anne Arran, Tim Gould

IanD353 - Lead O/S - 1993

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/91 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richiebongo, jamesgodwin64, mikekeswick, Tobias at Home

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E40 of 19
E40 of 19
easy E40 of 19
hard E35 of 19
E312 of 19
easy E32 of 19
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard 6a0 of 20
6a0 of 20
easy 6a0 of 20
hard 5c12 of 20
5c7 of 20
easy 5c1 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars12 of 17
1 Star5 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

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dnf