16m.

Rockfax Description
Devious, hard work and excellent. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake in the nose or the breaks just left. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Sweet-Ass Stanage E3's.


ClimberDateStyle
Adam24B 23/Oct Lead dog

I'm 6'3, my long legs aren't compatible with this route, got very cramped and stressed resulting in getting too pumped trying to move up the flake.

MSchobitz 19/Oct Lead dnf

Kept climbing up and down before committing to the lower "crux" then got spanked by the awkward traverse. Full body cramps and lots of whimpering. Too boxed to finish it, so aided my way back along the traverse and escaped. One to come back for!

with Wizzy
Louishmouis 11/Sep Lead

woooo corker

with ben, Felix
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Jul Lead O/S

Great morning out with these clowns, laughter from beginning to end. Entertaining route too.

with Tim Hill, Jim McCormack
scarmichael 22/May Lead
with Steve Wooton
Steve Wootton 22/May Lead G/U

First E3 Lead :)

Hidden 06/May 2nd dog
Andy Moles 22/Apr 2nd
with Simon
shaunhumphreys 25/Mar Lead dnf

fear! will come back when i have a trad head

Hannes B 12/Mar Lead β
with Tom
will9911 10/Aug/15 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Apr/15 Lead
with Louis
Gudge 24/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Ran out of steam after traverse under top overhang.

WillDoyle 31/May/14 2nd
Haydn Jones 04/Mar/14 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 04/Mar/14 Lead

After two previous failed attempts , fellt v strait forward

with Hayden Jones
dominic lee 01/Mar/14 Lead β
with dave turnbull
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
jrobbings ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead dog
claregardiner 07/Jul/13 Lead

Started on this but finished up Old Dragon after much scurrying back and forth along the cramped traverse.

Si dH 19/May/13 2nd dnf

Fell standing up in to the crack at the top, got feet wrong and ran out of body tension, then couldn't get back on. Disappointing.

with Neil Furniss
Dave Turnbull, BMC 29/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Tim Raffle
jwpil 21/Oct/12 Lead dog

Slipped of the top crux then re-climbed but not recovered enough so had to rest. Felt hard.

with Jake
Jake Young 21/Oct/12 2nd dog

Felt Hard, fell off the top crux, weird moves.

with Jack
deacondeacon 01/Sep/12 Lead

Led clean on preplaced gear from a partners attempt. Felt steady but awkward.

barni 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ewan
redjerry ?/Aug/12 Lead
w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

finding the finger lock over the roof a great eureka! moment

with pat
maddy.c 31/Mar/12 -
Brown 18/Mar/12 Lead
with Henry
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt
al123 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt

seconded it first then led it. didnt do the cramped traverse as around 6ft it didnt look nice. great moves near the overhang. maybe E2 5c without traverse.

thomasadixon 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally got it clean! Even felt fun this time and none too hard :) Tried in 10/10 and found the traverse awful, fell off at the crux, tried again in 4/11 and fell off in the same place.

with Becca
Mike_Hayes 11/Jun/11 -
with Sarah Marks
Chi Cheng 06/May/11 Lead β

lead on jon's gear after he fell off. the pull over the roof is a hard fight.

Hidden 02/May/11 2nd
GraMc 12/Apr/11 Lead dnf

lead on mostly lukes gear after he bailed off, got comnpletely pumped on the roof and did the same!

with hannah gibbs
lrandall 12/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Utterly gutted. Felt solid most of the way, but made the (right 'ard!) under cut move through the roof and started to faulter. Placed a very strenuous wire instead of heal hooking / mantelling to glory and pumped out. Blood was full on gushing from two tips (6 days on the trot on grit!) so lowered of and sulked. Will be back to get it GU soon enough.

with French
steve_yo 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/10 2nd dog

hard move going over the top roof!

with James Moneypenny
BeccaSnowden 10/Oct/10 2nd dog

Horrible! Found the start really nice but the traverse was pretty awful. Really bunched up even for me and I'm 5'2!!

with Tom
chrishedgehog 30/Aug/10 2nd dog

Found traverse extremely bunched-up (I am only 5'11"1/2 though, but with long arms) and the final crack quite nasty, which is where it all ground to a halt. The rest of it is really nice though!

with James
Stig 30/Aug/10 Lead dog

Desperate. Couldn't do the overhang at all. Humiliating.

with Chris
nai 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Dogmusher 22/Aug/10 2nd
with Marc Weisner
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Gazzawatson 12/May/10 2nd
with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 2nd
with chris parson
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/09 2nd β
Ben Harper 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Floris
Matt Shepherd 30/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Ram MkiV 06/Mar/09 Lead β

gear in. awkward and quite hard fought most of the way... quite good too though

with lee, al, guy
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
sadams 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Catherine Adams
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with martina
frost ?/Jun/06 2nd
with D Garry
ukb shark 29/Apr/06 Lead
with Chris Williams
ukb shark 21/Jan/05 Lead dnf

Desperately cold - spindrift coming off the top etc

Iggy_B 21/Jan/05 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
nickcanute ??/2003 Lead O/S
Gus 12/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
Hidden 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Aug/01 Lead dnf
with JH2
Hidden 09/Sep/00 Lead
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/00 Lead RP
with Roy Thomas
Mark Riley ?/May/00 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead RP
Boy ??/2000 -
Chris Reid 05/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Hidden ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Roget 15/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 08/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/95 -
Daniel Wrightson 14/Jun/95 Lead O/S

Watch that your ropes don't get caught in the crack as you go voer the overhangs!!

with Olivia Horner
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
Stoney Boy 02/May/94 Lead O/S
with Anne Arran, Tim Gould
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 30/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with FMC
Hidden ??/1981 -
DPaul 12/Oct/80 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set