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The Guillotine** E3 5c

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[tom, 1 kb]16m. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the narrow hanging wall leftwards (gripping and hard for long legs) until past the arete. Cross the final overhang using the flake-crack in the nose or the horizontal breaks on the left. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ed Drummond (one big peg 1971). FFA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: tom © mwatson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Nov/12

Slipped of the top crux then re-climbed but not recovered enough so had to rest. Felt hard.
jwpil - Lead dog - 21/Oct/12 with Jake

Felt Hard, fell off the top crux, weird moves.
Jake Young - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/12 with Jack

Led clean on preplaced gear from a partners attempt. Felt steady but awkward.
deacondeacon - Lead - 01/Sep/12

barni - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Ewan

redjerry - Lead - Aug/12

finding the finger lock over the roof a great eureka! moment
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with pat

maddy.c - 31/Mar/12

Brown - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with Henry

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11

seconded it first then led it. didnt do the cramped traverse as around 6ft it didnt look nice. great moves near the overhang. maybe E2 5c without traverse.
al123 - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11

Finally got it clean! Even felt fun this time and none too hard :) Tried in 10/10 and found the traverse awful, fell off at the crux, tried again in 4/11 and fell off in the same place.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11 with Becca

wolverine - 11/Jun/11 with Sarah Marks

lead on jon's gear after he fell off. the pull over the roof is a hard fight.
Chi Cheng - Lead β - 06/May/11 with Jon Fane, Rachel Stater

Found it ok till the traverse! Far to bunched up for me, so monkeyed along on holds above the roof, then dogged it a lot getting gear back from under. The first crux and last move over the nose felt ok tho.
conorcussell - 2nd - 02/May/11

lead on mostly lukes gear after he bailed off, got comnpletely pumped on the roof and did the same!
Ginger McGrath - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/11 with hannah gibbs

Utterly gutted. Felt solid most of the way, but made the (right 'ard!) under cut move through the roof and started to faulter. Placed a very strenuous wire instead of heal hooking / mantelling to glory and pumped out. Blood was full on gushing from two tips (6 days on the trot on grit!) so lowered of and sulked. Will be back to get it GU soon enough.
lrandall - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/11 with French

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with smacks

David Smith - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Belayed Penny on it last week but didnt really take any beta. A great route- classic gritstone struggle.
liam - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Probes

hard move going over the top roof!
r fizzle - 2nd dog - 10/Oct/10 with James Moneypenny

Horrible! Found the start really nice but the traverse was pretty awful. Really bunched up even for me and I'm 5'2!!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 10/Oct/10 with Tom

Found traverse extremely bunched-up (I am only 5'11"1/2 though, but with long arms) and the final crack quite nasty, which is where it all ground to a halt. The rest of it is really nice though!
chrishedgehog - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with James

Desperate. Couldn't do the overhang at all. Humiliating.
Stig - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10 with Chris

nai - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Andrew

Dogmusher - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Marc Weisner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Gazzawatson - 2nd - 12/May/10 with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - 2nd - 09/May/10 with chris parson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Ben Dorey

loundsy - 2nd β - 28/Oct/09 with debbie, bex

Ben Harper - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Oct/09 with Floris

Matt Shepherd - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

gear in. awkward and quite hard fought most of the way... quite good too though
Belier - Lead β - 06/Mar/09 with lee, al, guy

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08

sadams - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Catherine Adams

m.thomas15 - Lead O/S - 11/May/07 with Hanna Leahy

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/06 with martina

frost - 2nd - Jun/06 with D Garry

shark - Lead - 29/Apr/06 with Chris Williams

Desperately cold - spindrift coming off the top etc
shark - Lead dnf - 21/Jan/05 with Iain Bisset

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/03 with John Nightingale

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/01

Paz - Lead dnf - Aug/01 with JH2

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/00

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 19/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

Mark Riley - 2nd - May/00 with Richard Ibberson

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead RP - 2000

Boy - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/96

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 08/Oct/95

Hidden - 08/Aug/95

Watch that your ropes don't get caught in the crack as you go voer the overhangs!!
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/95 with Olivia Horner

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/91 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 1985

DPaul - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richiebongo, jamesgodwin64, Hidden, mikekeswick, Tobias at Home

Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E40 of 18
E40 of 18
easy E40 of 18
hard E34 of 18
E312 of 18
easy E32 of 18
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard 6a0 of 19
6a0 of 19
easy 6a0 of 19
hard 5c11 of 19
5c7 of 19
easy 5c1 of 19
hard 5b0 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
3 Stars0 of 16
2 Stars11 of 16
1 Star5 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead43 of 66 (65.2%)
Followed14 of 66 (21.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 66 (1.5%)
Unknown8 of 66 (12.1%)

'Climbed'23 of 66 (34.8%)
clean O/S23 of 66 (34.8%)
clean β3 of 66 (4.5%)
clean rpt3 of 66 (4.5%)
clean RP3 of 66 (4.5%)
dogged6 of 66 (9.1%)
dnf5 of 66 (7.6%)