Rockfax Description
Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than you might expect though the runners aren't. Finish up the short overhanging crack just to the left, or escape right - tut tut. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch (one nut) 1968. FFA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

hervenuttall ?/May Lead O/S
with Matt W
Gambit 21/Apr Lead O/S

Just keep saying better than expected holds on every move

phil64 10/Apr Lead O/S

Excellent fun

with Andy Bowman
samrad 25/Mar Lead O/S

I was planning on doing guillotine but after realising the swing potential for the second i climbed back along along under the roof and finished up this.

with Richard
Hannes B 12/Mar Lead β
with Tom
bclifton 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Apr/15 2nd
with Louis
Louishmouis 22/Apr/15 Lead
with Dave
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S

First moves of the E3 then finished on this by mistake

Alistair Corbett 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Sam hamer
NDD 29/Jun/14 Solo
Jay.Carr 14/Jun/14 Solo
Jay.Carr 08/Jun/14 Solo
steveb2006 02/May/14 Lead
with David Andrew
Speeddemonsi 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 11/Apr/14 2nd
with Si
Albachoss 02/Apr/14 2nd β

Proper finish. Dyno'd to a heelhook then grunted to glory

with Ben
nimajneb 02/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
benkelsey 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S

strange anti line to finish

Gudge 31/Oct/13 Solo rpt

E1 variant finish.

Gudge 31/Oct/13 Solo rpt

E1 variant finish.

Gudge 08/Oct/13 Solo rpt

E1 finish x 3.

Gudge 08/Oct/13 Solo rpt

E1 finish x 2.

Gudge 08/Oct/13 Solo rpt

E1 finish x 1.

Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs 18/Aug/13 2nd

Biggish pulls, decent holds!

with Graham Parkes
Gudge 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Found the first bit to the ledge fine and gear (small cam) was adequate. The top bit through the overhang was a beast of a mantelshelf-thrutch-swim-bellyflop-grovel though!

Graeme Hammond 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt

with proper finish this time + no snow or mats

Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/13 Solo
ellis 10/Apr/13 Sent

foot of snow, finished R

with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove
Graeme Hammond 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Very nice, above snow and pads but still felt like a solo higher up, escaped right at top (E1 finish), will be back for the full tick

with Mark R
mark20 16/Feb/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Solo O/S
jwpil 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S
shed_hed 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Hybrid of start of guillotine and finish of old dragon.

with Alun Freem
Mr Sparkle 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Taylor
Hidden 21/May/12 Solo
maddy.c 31/Mar/12 -
tom.e 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Brown 18/Mar/12 Solo
with Solo
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jeromecooper 13/Aug/11 -
john lynch 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
James Oswald 08/May/11 2nd dog

Several of the pulls felt brutal.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd dnf
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Hidden 29/Oct/09 Lead β
dannyboy83 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/09 TR dog
Nom 12/Apr/09 Solo
with Joe Bream
steveb2006 16/Nov/08 Lead

Val belays and Paul M seconds

with Paul Mitchel, Valerie Partington
Si dH 18/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Tez29 28/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Nicos 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Richard B
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead O/S
with dave
MYSSAK 07/Oct/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead dog
Pythonist 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Jennions
Garan 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Interesting moves over in a flash.

with Iain Fisher
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Urgles ?/Oct/03 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/02 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/01 Lead
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??/2000 -
Boy ??/2000 -
nige ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/96 Lead
Roget 12/Jun/95 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Hidden 04/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/84 Lead
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
KRB 11/Aug/83 Solo O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rurp, Owen W-G, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set