Rockfax Description
A thin crack gains a committing traverse to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. A dry-mouthed VS for many years! © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1955

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

crabtreer 22/Nov TR
chris fox 01/Nov 2nd
dominic lee 11/Oct Solo
TomatoPro 10/Oct Solo β

Hardest move is at the bottom so not so scary as E1 5b with a hard move at the top! Still, great fun.

Hidden 10/Oct 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Gambit 24/Sep 2nd rpt
with Royston
pete1993 08/Sep Solo β

Much beta given by Jamie, top quality though

with Jamie
JamieSparkes 08/Sep Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Aug TR
Dawlish 02/Aug TR
Robin Brooke ?/Aug Lead

enjoyed the start and the traverse, but got stumped on the upper arÍte - either missing something, off route - dogged.

Pryan ?/Aug 2nd
mattleepianist ?/Aug Lead O/S
Mowglee 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd
snook 26/Jun 2nd β
stephen ashworth 25/Jun Lead
with Alex cox
Hidden 18/Jun Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Jun Lead O/S
amccann 23/May Solo O/S
Liam Ingram 23/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May 2nd rpt
drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
john lynch 13/May Lead rpt
with johan
Scooter Young 10/May 2nd
shaunhumphreys 17/Apr Lead O/S

just abit scary!

with Tom A
Teappleby 17/Apr 2nd
James rogers86 14/Apr Lead O/S
Mark Duncan 14/Apr 2nd O/S

Easy enough climbing but didn't feel up to leading it, so seconded James instead, maybe come back and finish the job one day.

harold walmsley 05/Apr Solo rpt
robgixer ??/2015 -
M_Robinson 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely wet through, made the top feel a bit sketchy

DanielGyi 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
hipyhop 02/Nov/14 Lead G/U

Came back to finish the job

with cheque
Colin Scotchford 05/Oct/14 Lead
Gudge 29/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Collings
stevoland 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 28/Sep/14 Lead

Vs 5a solo whith a bolder problem start

ryan_d 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

Pumped after first section. Great traverse and finish.

with Warren Adjeriou
wazzalad20 28/Sep/14 Lead

Felt off the first move so can't claim the onsight. Really hard start, rest of the route is class, the traverse is very bold, no gear in those breaks!

with anna henshaw
Teappleby 16/Aug/14 Lead

really nice climbing, fun high foot at the start.

CarlaJG 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, will go back to lead at some point!

ChrisVickers 15/Aug/14 2nd O/S
David Mayers 15/Aug/14 Lead
with Stuart Howard
stp 07/Aug/14 Solo
RFWilkie 29/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Didnt want to commit to traverse so reversed to ground.

with Mark
JamieSparkes 28/Jun/14 Lead rpt
mrteale 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
MrBIond 17/Jun/14 Lead
kenneM 13/Jun/14 2nd
with Dan loveday
papashango 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jasmin
NDD 02/Jun/14 Solo
Trobbo 30/May/14 2nd
with Nick Hepburn
LJC 30/May/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
LakesWinter 21/May/14 Lead β

Beta from Owen

with Phil B, Cake
philboy 21/May/14 2nd
with matt g
Cake 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Easy 5a/4c moves on the scary bit.

with Phil B, Matt
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 16/May/14 Solo
Nick1812P 14/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
tprebs 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Conor Cadden
Speeddemonsi 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 30/Mar/14 Solo rpt
stp 11/Mar/14 Solo rpt
Coel Hellier 09/Mar/14 Lead
CallumSmith ?/Mar/14 2nd
ashtond6 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
jonhowson 11/Nov/13 2nd dnf
Jim Slater 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/13 Lead rpt
gavinpeach 14/Sep/13 Lead β

Previously seconded in April 2012. Great route with brilliant exposure. Crux is protected but the traverse is bold with ground fall potential. Very enjoyable.

with Max Pendleton
Gabe Oliver 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

great route. 2 halves, very contrasting but both equally enjoyable

Pippa 06/Jul/13 Lead
mountain_jay 06/Jul/13 2nd
kyaizawa 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 17/Jun/13 2nd dnf

Unable to get off ground.

andrewlyons14 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gerallt Owain 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Andy Lyons
Sam Simpson 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
al123 ?/Apr/13 Solo
kenneM 05/Jan/13 2nd
M_W_Court 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Kendog
Theeni 05/Jan/13 TR RP
PLM ??/2013 -
Michael Allday 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 20/Oct/12 Solo O/S
harold walmsley 09/Oct/12 Solo rpt
Jake Young 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Mark R
Rich Malcolm 06/Oct/12 Lead β
with Rick Asher
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Hard move to start (but it used to be avoided on the R)

Haydn Jones 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with ben vieyra
Ben Vieyra 02/Sep/12 2nd
mark20 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Dervey 28/Aug/12 2nd dog
shouter 28/Aug/12 Lead
pebbles 03/Aug/12 2nd

traverse is effectively a solo for the leader, and quite precarious feeling.

with guido
Gudge ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Sheratt
shed_hed 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Alun Freem
Simon_Letman 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo
Hannes B 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Aidan
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20/May/12 Lead
nigel pearson 19/May/12 Lead O/S

tricky move to start. Traverse is a real buzz

with Robin
madasten 05/May/12 Solo
deacondeacon 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S

1000th climb in logbook.

gavinpeach 24/Apr/12 2nd rpt
jwpil 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark, Graham
JPGR 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
eburki1 25/Mar/12 2nd dog

Great traverse

Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Mar/12 2nd

I found the move up to the break from the crack hard - I had to lunge for the holds. I also found the final move to the left arete tricky.

with Richard Waltham
Falko 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Delightfully technical start followed by an absorbing traverse which I began after reminding myself 'It's a slab . . .'

with Al W.
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
The Biochemist ??/2012 Lead β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
john lynch 24/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 21/Nov/11 2nd β
Tom Livingstone 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ewano 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
shouter 23/Oct/11 Lead
Bob Hassall ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd
Alex Winter 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Doug
Douglas 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt
al123 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Ahab 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
al123 03/Aug/11 Solo rpt
domskezz ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jamma
stvredmond 29/Jul/11 Lead

fairly straightforward and brilliant after the harder starting section which is very well protected. emotional crux was the traverse but is all there

Run_Ross_Run 29/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Steve
Alex 74 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian c
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
climbing_wiggy 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Dale
ian d f 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Sidekick 19/Jun/11 Solo

Climbed previously

Hidden 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 17/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
gordonday 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with clive
gavinpeach 09/Jun/11 TR β
with Gordon
Ollie B 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with M.Sharpe
al123 28/May/11 Solo O/S

really fun. good move on the arete

Hidden 17/May/11 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 08/May/11 Lead O/S

interesting, hard start move which Daf could lank through

Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/11 2nd
with Jamie
tomthecoolperson 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
ben_250 04/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
BeccaSnowden 25/Apr/11 2nd dog

Just didn't have the reach!

with Tom
thomasadixon 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tricky start then bold an soft, nice.

with Becca
rustaldo 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

sweet climbing dude!

Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Skell 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
davidgent 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Parsons
andysroom 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
w.pettet-smith 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
GPN 19/Mar/11 Solo O/S
joe.91 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Didn't realize how bold this was going to be! Easy traverse though, crux is the first few moves

Chi Cheng 08/Mar/11 2nd O/S
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd β
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
max_chan 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Des PCC
derekb 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Matt - PCC
ojp 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Dave Foster 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice route. Bold start and great holds on arete higher up.

with Si
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 02/Oct/10 Lead
Dave Warburton 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice enough, worth it for the horizontal jamming up high, though you don't have to jam them so....yeh.

Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Pown 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed morris 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with -martin
Jeronimo 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
drysori 12/Jun/10 Solo
petegruf 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Chris B
Haszko 02/Jun/10 Lead
with Dave Kidd
Rowansb 28/May/10 Solo O/S
with Ewan
Adam Potter 24/May/10 2nd
jowgli 19/May/10 Lead O/S
with smudge
leon 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Foot slipped on initial crack after completing the hard move, didn't fall as by then my hands were on good holds. Made a foot placement on the traverse without looking throughout the foot placement.

with Steven Davidson
Bern ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Peter Brown
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 18/Apr/10 Solo
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
AMarchant 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant little route, all over after the big rock over up to the second break where the holds are smallish but adequate. just commit to it and enjoy!!

Hidden 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 21/Mar/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 21/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Sent O/S
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Mike Goldthorp 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Milne 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S

lovely traverse.

Russ 08/Oct/09 2nd β
with Dave Saxby
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Matt Shepherd 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 07/Sep/09 Solo
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Si dH 05/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Gary and Pete
Alfredo 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ben H
b.hayley 31/Aug/09 -
b.hayley 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with alfredo
Mike W 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/09 -
duzinga 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Guido
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
bigphil 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Paul Willinson
jameshall 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
smudge 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Will G
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Dave Rumney 04/Apr/09 -
with Tanya Milner
tatz45 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Lisa Morgan
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead β
Twisty 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Tricky start, traverse was easier than expected.

Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 18/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd rpt
davidwright 07/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Toby
Tobes ?/Sep/08 Lead
with David Wright
London Luke ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Lev 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Aug/08 -
steve_biczyk 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Emma Curry
Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Guy Wilson 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/08 2nd β

Boulder problem really, but traverse is spicy without the gear.

derico 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sadact
petemeads 05/Jun/08 Lead

It does not look too bad from below, but the consequences of losing control at the end of the traverse makes the grade justifiable...

Hidden 08/May/08 2nd rpt
Joe Dove 05/May/08 2nd
with kev
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd
jimsrankin ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with andy, matt & ben
flat eric 14/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Fell off at the crux. Fortunately, this was low down and is the only bit of the route with good gear. Lost my bottle and couldn't get past it. Shame really, the traverse looked fun.

Different Steve 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

1st E1 of the year - good thing it's a soft touch. A sneaky threaded micro protects against fluffing the end of the traverse.

with Guy Reid
Hidden 13/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mike Todd ??/2008 -
with Nick
joese7en ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Brian Rodgers 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 17/Oct/07 Lead O/S
barni 18/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Glyn 17/Aug/07 2nd
with Barni
jibberingwreck 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mustgetstronger 12/Aug/07 2nd
Billg ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 31/Jul/07 Lead
rayash 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S


with liz
Hidden 17/Jun/07 2nd
A Crook 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Neil
galpinos 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with lowersharpnose
maybe_si 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with james
james.f.williamson 28/Apr/07 2nd
Jim Vach 01/Apr/07 Lead
with Tim Dorsett
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Nicos 01/Feb/07 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden ??/2007 -
Cragrat Rich 09/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Hard start! Comforting to gather from the guidebook that the crux traverse is easier than you think rather than harder... for anyone still struggling to commit, a friend 2 stuffed in sideways on two cams might be of help

Hidden 09/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 25/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
drysori ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Traverse is easier than it looks. Very soft for E1.

with Malcolm
jimdanson 21/Jan/06 2nd
with Dan Robinson
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Alex Mason 24/Dec/05 Lead O/S

not a bad route. damps cracks. quite bold really but nice all the same. the fat kid made it look hard and scary turned out it was ok.

Ram MkiV 24/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Stig 13/Nov/05 Lead β
with Jonathan Teale
Si dH 21/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Chris the Tall 14/Sep/05 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2005 Lead
with Dave Morris
Brown ?/Jun/04 Solo
John Marsland 01/May/04 Lead
with Darrell Small, Allen Newby
Daniel Armitage 24/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/04 Lead O/S
cem 07/Sep/03 Lead β
Hidden 31/Aug/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/May/03 Lead rpt
Gambit 08/May/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
chris sm 12/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd
NeilGriffiths 22/Jul/01 -
with Simon Frost
Hidden 12/May/01 2nd
Hidden 13/Jan/01 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/00 Solo
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 16/Apr/00 Solo
tlr ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
nige ??/2000 -
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/99 Solo rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/99 Lead dnf
Chris Reid 20/Sep/97 Lead O/S
r0b 16/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Ian Huyton
JonBray ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 08/Oct/95 Lead

Felt hard for HVS!

John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/95 Solo rpt
nai ??/1995 Solo
Stoney Boy 12/May/94 Solo O/S
rob.grafton 08/May/94 2nd
with Terry, Tim, Bruce
uphillnow ?/Apr/94 Solo O/S

A day soloing along the edge with Mark Gray. Mark had done it before and set off up it so I followed without knowing anything about it - it was hvs then and the friction better. Soloed it a number of times since.

Mick King 08/Aug/93 Solo
Hidden 05/Jun/93 Lead
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 22/Aug/92 Lead O/S
K1 ?/Jul/92 -
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/91 Lead
Roget ??/1991 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/90 Lead
michael burrows 17/Mar/90 2nd
with steve williams
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Dave Musgrove 01/Jul/89 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S

Belayed by Jon Isaacs, but he refused to leave the ground!

goi.ashmore 23/Oct/88 Solo β
Hidden 23/May/87 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/86 Lead
stp 03/May/86 Solo O/S
Tim Bateman 29/Sep/85 2nd
Rob Davies 11/Aug/84 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/80 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/80 Solo
Hidden 08/Sep/77 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/77 Solo
mikej 25/Mar/73 Solo
with Keith Gregson
Dave Musgrove 25/Apr/71 Lead
with Bob Knapton
mikej 10/Sep/67 Solo dnf
with Steve Radford, Ted Markham, Nigel Sumner
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ralphio, BAdhoc, Sam McCarthy, hthom, Geoff82, Will Falder, drobin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, AlexxelA, Justaname, Hidden, Batt, Hidden, JonmapDL, johnpr, aretherenoneleft, AsleepOnBelay, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, peppermill, tommytwotone, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set