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Saliva** E1 5b

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[Stanage Light Trails, 3 kb]16m. Climb the thin crack on the right then make a committing traverse leftwards until it is possible to climb up and left to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. Graded a gripping VS for many years! © ROCKFAX
FA. Peter Biven 1955

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: Stanage Light Trails © Dan Arkle
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 313 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Didnt want to commit to traverse so reverersed to ground.
RFWilkie - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/14 with Mark

JamieSparkes - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/14 with Claire

mrteale - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with MrBlond

MrBIond - Lead - 17/Jun/14

kenneM - 2nd - 13/Jun/14 with Dan loveday

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

Nicolas Duboust - Solo - 02/Jun/14

Trobbo - 2nd - 30/May/14 with Nick Hepburn

LJC - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with Little Ben

Hidden - Lead β - 21/May/14

philboy - 2nd - 21/May/14 with matt g

Easy 5a/4c moves on the scary bit.
Cake - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Phil B, Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

WillDoyle - Solo - 16/May/14

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 14/May/14

Chris Hind - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with ash

tprebs - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Conor Cadden

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Andrew Barker

cjcuni - 2nd O/S - Apr/14 with Thomas Prebble

Toby Dunn - Solo rpt - 30/Mar/14

stp - Solo rpt - 11/Mar/14

Coel Hellier - Lead - 09/Mar/14

CallumSmith - 2nd - Mar/14

ashtond6 - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Nov/13

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Jon

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/13

Previously seconded in April 2012. Great route with brilliant exposure. Crux is protected but the traverse is bold with ground fall potential. Very enjoyable.
gavinpeach - Lead β - 14/Sep/13 with Max Pendleton

great route. 2 halves, very contrasting but both equally enjoyable
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

Pippa - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 06/Jul/13 with Pippa Froggatt

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Joe Rudin

Unable to get off ground.
RUDIN.J.D.H - 2nd dnf - 17/Jun/13 with Kyoichi Aizawa

andrewlyons14 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Gerallt Owain

Gerallt Owain - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Andy Lyons

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Mark Grist, Tom Doldon

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

al123 - Solo - Apr/13

kenneM - 2nd - 05/Jan/13 with M_W_Court

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Kendog

Theeni - TR RP - 05/Jan/13

Michael Allday - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/12

harold walmsley - Solo rpt - 09/Oct/12

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12 with Mark R

Rich Malcolm - Lead β - 06/Oct/12 with Rick Asher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12

Hard move to start (but it used to be avoided on the R)
harold walmsley - Solo rpt - 04/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with ben vieyra

Ben Vieyra - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Haydn Jones

mark20 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Mark R

Dervey - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/12

shouter - Lead - 28/Aug/12

traverse is effectively a solo for the leader, and quite precarious feeling.
pebbles - 2nd - 03/Aug/12 with guido

Gudge - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Dave Sheratt

shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Alun Freem

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Neil Furniss

Hannes B - Solo - 12/Jul/12

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/12 with Aidan

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

tricky move to start. Traverse is a real buzz
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Robin

madasten - Solo - 05/May/12

1000th climb in logbook.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12

gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/12 with Andrew Deacon

jwpil - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Mark, Graham

JPGR - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Great traverse
eburki1 - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12

I found the move up to the break from the crack hard - I had to lunge for the holds. I also found the final move to the left arete tricky.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Richard Waltham

Delightfully technical start followed by an absorbing traverse which I began after reminding myself 'It's a slab . . .'
Falko - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Al W.

Bruce Houston - Lead O/S - Mar/12

The Biochemist - Lead β - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

admackie - 2012

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/11 with Lewis Andrew

Antony87 - 2nd β - 21/Nov/11 with Frank Castiello

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

Ewano - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

shouter - Lead - 23/Oct/11

Bob Hassall - Lead O/S - Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

Steady.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Doug

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/11

al123 - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/11

Ahab - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

al123 - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/11

domskezz - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Jamma

fairly straightforward and brilliant after the harder starting section which is very well protected. emotional crux was the traverse but is all there
stvredmond - Lead - 29/Jul/11 with Darren Ross

Run_Ross_Run - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/11 with Steve

alex thackway - 2nd - 23/Jul/11 with Ian c

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11

climbing_wiggy - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Dale

ian d f - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Steve Robinson

Climbed previously
Sidekick - Solo - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/11 with loundsy

gordonday - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with clive

gavinpeach - TR β - 09/Jun/11 with Gordon

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with M.Sharpe

really fun. good move on the arete
al123 - Solo O/S - 28/May/11 with alistair

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/11

interesting, hard start move which Daf could lank through
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Daf

Dafydd Llywelyn - 2nd - 08/May/11 with Jamie

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Ben 250

ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/11 with Tom

Just didn't have the reach!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 25/Apr/11 with Tom

Tricky start then bold an soft, nice.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Becca

sweet climbing dude!
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Kit Perry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Skell - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Kelvin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/11

davidgent - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Andy Parsons

andysroom - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Dave Gent

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Mar/11

w.pettet-smith - Solo O/S - 22/Mar/11

GPN - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/11

Didn't realize how bold this was going to be! Easy traverse though, crux is the first few moves
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Chi Cheng

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Joe Dobson

stevorobs3 - 2nd β - 2011 with Ian Faulkner

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

max_chan - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Des PCC

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Oct/10

ojp - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Dave

Nice route. Bold start and great holds on arete higher up.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Coel Hellier - Lead - 02/Oct/10

Nice enough, worth it for the horizontal jamming up high, though you don't have to jam them so....yeh.
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Sean Jacobs

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo - 22/Aug/10

Rather bold!
slacky - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Andes, Ben

Pown - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with -martin

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Jun/10

petegruf - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Chris B

Haszko - Lead - 02/Jun/10 with Dave Kidd

Rowansb - Solo O/S - 28/May/10 with Ewan

Adam Potter - 2nd - 24/May/10

jowgli - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with smudge

Foot slipped on initial crack after completing the hard move, didn't fall as by then my hands were on good holds. Made a foot placement on the traverse without looking throughout the foot placement.
leon - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Steven Davidson

Bern - Lead O/S - May/10 with Peter Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Pete Graham - Solo - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10

Brilliant little route, all over after the big rock over up to the second break where the holds are smallish but adequate. just commit to it and enjoy!!
AMarchant - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/10

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 21/Mar/10 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Mark Williams

Hidden - Sent O/S - 2010

JulesV - Solo - 09/Nov/09

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Matt Burdican

lovely traverse.
Milne - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/09 with martin russ, dave saxby

Russ - 2nd β - 08/Oct/09 with Dave Saxby

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/09

Boy - Oct/09 with Nige Kershaw

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Pete Graham - Solo - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/09

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/09 with Gary and Pete

Alfredo - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Ben H

b.hayley - 31/Aug/09

b.hayley - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with alfredo

Mike W - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

Hidden - 15/Aug/09

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Guido

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

bigphil - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Paul Willinson

jameshall - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

smudge - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Will G

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Dave Rumney - 04/Apr/09 with Tanya Milner

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Lisa Morgan

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Mar/09

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Byron Buck

Tricky start, traverse was easier than expected.
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex Twist

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Mar/09

Sal37 - Lead O/S - 2009

Si dH - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/08 with Neil Furniss

dave657 - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

Mark Walter - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/08

davidwright - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/08 with Toby

Tobes - Lead - Sep/08 with David Wright

luke1986 - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Lev - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/08

Hidden - 16/Aug/08

steve_biczyk - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Emma Curry

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08

Guy Wilson - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/08

Boulder problem really, but traverse is spicy without the gear.
Jon_Warner - 2nd β - 06/Jun/08 with Dave Pattinson

derico - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Sadact

It does not look too bad from below, but the consequences of losing control at the end of the traverse makes the grade justifiable...
petemeads - Lead - 05/Jun/08 with Jim Hardwick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/May/08

Joe Dove - 2nd - 05/May/08 with kev

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/08

jimsrankin - Lead O/S - May/08 with andy, matt & ben

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/08

1st E1 of the year - good thing it's a soft touch. A sneaky threaded micro protects against fluffing the end of the traverse.
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Guy Reid

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/08

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Paul Dewey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

daveagriff - TR - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

toddm - 2008 with Nick

joese7en - Lead O/S - 2008

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/07

barni - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/07 with Glyn

Glyn - 2nd - 17/Aug/07 with Barni

jibberingwreck - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with mustgetstronger

mustgetstronger - 2nd - 12/Aug/07 with jibberingwreck

Billg - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/07

scary
rayash - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with liz

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/07

A Crook - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/07 with Dom Stockton

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Neil

galpinos - Lead O/S - 25/May/07 with lowersharpnose

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with james

james.f.williamson - 2nd - 28/Apr/07 with Simon Chevis

Jim Vach - Lead - 01/Apr/07 with Tim Dorsett

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 01/Feb/07 with solo

Hidden - 2007

Hard start! Comforting to gather from the guidebook that the crux traverse is easier than you think rather than harder... for anyone still struggling to commit, a friend 2 stuffed in sideways on two cams might be of help
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead - Sep/06

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/06 with martina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/06

jimdanson - 2nd - 21/Jan/06 with Dan Robinson

dan gibson - 2006

not a bad route. damps cracks. quite bold really but nice all the same. the fat kid made it look hard and scary turned out it was ok.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/05 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/05 with Alex Mason

Stig - Lead β - 13/Nov/05 with Jonathan Teale

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/05 with Neil Furniss

Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - 14/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Pete Graham - Lead - 2005 with Dave Morris

Brown - Solo - Jun/04

John Marsland - Lead - 01/May/04 with Darrell Small, Allen Newby

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/04

cem - Lead β - 07/Sep/03 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/03

Gambit - Lead O/S - 08/May/03

Paz - Lead - Apr/03 with MH

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 12/May/02

Hidden - 2nd - May/02

NeilGriffiths - 22/Jul/01 with Simon Frost

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/01

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jan/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/00

Ropeboy - Solo - 16/Apr/00

tlr - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - 2000

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - Sep/99

r0b - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/97 with Ian Huyton

JonBray - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96

rurp - Lead O/S - 1996

Felt hard for HVS!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 08/Oct/95

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

Hidden - Solo rpt - 01/Apr/95

nai - Solo - 1995

Stoney Boy - Solo O/S - 12/May/94

rob.grafton - 2nd - 08/May/94 with Terry, Tim, Bruce

A day soloing along the edge with Mark Gray. Mark had done it before and set off up it so I followed without knowing anything about it - it was hvs then and the friction better. Soloed it a number of times since.
David Smith - Solo O/S - Apr/94

ChrisJD - Lead - 05/Jun/93 with Alex

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/May/93 with Sven, Steven Delderfield

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/92

K1 - Jul/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/90

michael burrows - 2nd - 17/Mar/90 with steve williams

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 01/Jul/89

Belayed by Jon Isaacs, but he refused to leave the ground!
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jul/89

goi.ashmore - Solo β - 23/Oct/88

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/86

stp - Solo O/S - 03/May/86

Tim Bateman - 2nd - 29/Sep/85

Hidden - Solo O/S - Oct/80

Hidden - Solo - 14/Sep/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/77

Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/77

mikej - Solo - 25/Mar/73 with Keith Gregson

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 25/Apr/71 with Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Falder, drobin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, AlexxelA, Justaname, Hidden, Batt, Hidden, JonmapDL, johnpr, aretherenoneleft, jeffsheard, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Troy Tempest, tommytwotone, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 193
hard E20 of 67
E20 of 67
easy E21 of 67
hard E12 of 67
E138 of 67
easy E118 of 67
hard HVS8 of 67
HVS0 of 67
easy HVS0 of 67
hard 5c0 of 65
5c2 of 65
easy 5c3 of 65
hard 5b13 of 65
5b35 of 65
easy 5b10 of 65
hard 5a2 of 65
5a0 of 65
easy 5a0 of 65
3 Stars3 of 61
2 Stars51 of 61
1 Star7 of 61
0 Stars0 of 61
Bag of .....0 of 61
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Style of ascent

Soloed46 of 313 (14.7%)
Lead160 of 313 (51.1%)
Followed85 of 313 (27.2%)
Toproped3 of 313 (1.0%)
Bouldered1 of 313 (0.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 313 (0.3%)
Unknown17 of 313 (5.4%)

'Climbed'101 of 313 (32.3%)
clean O/S165 of 313 (52.7%)
clean β13 of 313 (4.2%)
clean rpt23 of 313 (7.3%)
clean RP1 of 313 (0.3%)
dogged6 of 313 (1.9%)
dnf4 of 313 (1.3%)