300m, 6 pitches.
Starts high up in the lower cwm, right of Gwter Fawr & left of Equator Walls. 40 mins from the road.
P1 60m 3/4 From the toe of the buttress, climb a series of short, steep icefalls until the angle relents at 30m. Swarm up easy ground to belay as far up the ramp as you can on rock spikes, cracks or ice. It is possible to reach this spot with an easy scramble (on the right) if the pitch is not in condition.
P2 60m 4/5 Climb the ramp to the foot of the icefall & ascend this until the angle relents, again at c.30m. Another 30m of easier climbing leads to a ledge, stance & abseil station.
P3 - P7 200m 3 Climb the short steep icefall to the right of the stance & then follow an open gully line gently leftwards over a series of short icefalls. You're heading for the vertical narrow gully that leads to the notch in the ridge. A series of short steps add interest.
P1 60m 3/4 From the toe of the buttress, climb a series of short, steep icefalls until the angle relents at 30m. Swarm up easy ground to belay as far up the ramp as you can on rock spikes, cracks or ice. It is possible to reach this spot with an easy scramble (on the right) if the pitch is not in condition.
P2 60m 4/5 Climb the ramp to the foot of the icefall & ascend this until the angle relents, again at c.30m. Another 30m of easier climbing leads to a ledge, stance & abseil station.
P3 - P7 200m 3 Climb the short steep icefall to the right of the stance & then follow an open gully line gently leftwards over a series of short icefalls. You're heading for the vertical narrow gully that leads to the notch in the ridge. A series of short steps add interest.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Butel | 12 Feb, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: 60-meter ropes at least. If on 60s belay on the first pitch as close to the bottom of the second pitch as possible or 60m rope wont reach second belay. Belay re-equipped no doubt when its next in condition it will be rusty so if doing in a couple of years take some small nuts to leave or new pegs. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 60-meter ropes at least. If on 60s belay on the first pitch as close to the bottom of the second pitch as possible or 60m rope wont reach second belay. Belay re-equipped no doubt when its next in condition it will be rusty so if doing in a couple of years take some small nuts to leave or new pegs. |
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Route of Interest
Maesglasau Falls
Grade: IV 4 ***
(Maesglase)